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Post by looey on Mar 15, 2016 22:07:29 GMT 1
That'll be the float heights wrong then? Or the floats sticking Or the needle valve body O ring leaking Or the needle valve seat not sealing (could be worn or dirt on the seat/point) |
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Post by looey on Mar 15, 2016 21:15:02 GMT 1
Is that a bubble in the paint on the left hand side of the tank just behind the open end bottom part of decal scripe ?. It's either a reflection in the pic or it's just about to spout fuel ?  |
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Post by looey on Mar 15, 2016 10:07:15 GMT 1
looey as I said in my first comment I shall quote again for you as you clearly were not paying attention, "TIS A LOT OF MONEY" I am interested in this bike, and am going back up on Saturday to have a listen to it. maybe a deal can be done Or is it mine,,, Confused.com!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks guiri, will pm museuman Actually, I was paying attention and "Tis a lot of money" does not carry the same meaning as, the asking price is a complete over-inflated joke. However rare its condition, RD125LC's do not command that sort of money but as they say, anything is worth what someone is prepared to pay for it. Good luck with with making a deal on it anyway  |
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Post by looey on Mar 14, 2016 20:31:15 GMT 1
I have seen this bike in their shop today, It looks proper, and has lot's of paperwork with it, Tis a lot of money, but I bet it sells, as there ain't another one for sale in this country that's as nice, as I have been looking for a really nice one for 18 months. If anyone has got one as good as this then I will be a buyer for it! Well you've been looking for a really nice one for 18 months, why didn't you buy it today ?. You must think it's too expensive surely ?. Or is it yours ?  |
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Post by looey on Mar 14, 2016 19:37:16 GMT 1
I've done it few times before.
The easiest way is not to touch where the rear light bolts to the plastic tray. Just unbolt the tray, pull it forward until the rear light is where you want it, then make new holes through the tray to bolt in the new (further forward) position. You can easily do any trimming to the tray (front and sides) as needed.
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Post by looey on Mar 14, 2016 18:10:28 GMT 1
They're even trying to get £4k for the least desirable model of Fireblade ever made and it's in the worst colours they ever did !  Some of their advert prices are nearly as funny was watching the Two Ronnies |
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Post by looey on Mar 13, 2016 21:16:48 GMT 1
It's nice but I'd say half his asking price, tops |
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Post by looey on Mar 13, 2016 13:43:05 GMT 1
Fuel is coming out of a side breather vent ?, or the overflow exit at the bottom of the float bowl ?.
LC don't really have high compression compared to some 2-strokes. Have you got a basic compression tester to get some idea of what you have on each cylinder ?.
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Post by looey on Mar 12, 2016 15:39:13 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Mar 10, 2016 14:54:43 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Mar 10, 2016 14:50:26 GMT 1
Maybe I'm wrong but........ I always thought that if the casing connector pipe leaked at the seal, the coolant leaks out onto the top of the engine casing under the carbs, as the side casing gasket runs all around that hole so will not let the water into the casing to mix with the oil ?. Like has been said, I always replace that seal anyway (unless it's recently been changed) and run a very thin smear of clear RTV silicone sealant over it. no if it leaks it generally goes in to the engine oil and makes it all look very milky ! Yeah, I've had the milky oil when an water pump seal failed on me but when I've had that seal leak around the ally pipe that goes through the engine casing, it leaked coolant out onto the top of the engine ?. How does the coolant get past the casing gasket that goes 360 degress around that pipe opening ?. |
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Post by looey on Mar 10, 2016 13:38:30 GMT 1
Maybe I'm wrong but........
I always thought that if the casing connector pipe leaked at the seal, the coolant leaks out onto the top of the engine casing under the carbs, as the side casing gasket runs all around that hole so will not let the water into the casing to mix with the oil ?.
Like has been said, I always replace that seal anyway (unless it's recently been changed) and run a very thin smear of clear RTV silicone sealant over it.
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Post by looey on Mar 6, 2016 10:36:29 GMT 1
Funny, I remember reading that exact joke somewhere a few years ago. Still bl**dy funny reading again though |
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Post by looey on Mar 5, 2016 22:28:03 GMT 1
If that's the seller's attitude you only have 2 options........
Keep em and fix em, or send em back.
If you file a returns request as "item not described" then the seller usually has to pay the return postage. Maybe he's not aware of that ?.
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Post by looey on Mar 5, 2016 15:02:42 GMT 1
Got mine from Simply Bearings.
Cost me £4.54 including postage for 1x standard 5mm and 1x 7mm,
Be careful when ordering, as there are lots of similar types with single lips etc.
You want a 12 x 22 x 7mm rotary shaft oil seal with garter spring - R23 double lipped
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Post by looey on Mar 5, 2016 13:36:14 GMT 1
Cool, Gonna attempt it in a bit, what's the easiest way to get the old seal out without a seal hook ?.  Scrap that, it's out, a bit of heat applied, then careful persuasion with a srcewdriver from the inner part of the seal  |
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Post by looey on Mar 3, 2016 22:05:43 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Mar 3, 2016 20:57:01 GMT 1
Cool ta, The outer casing has been bushed, so there's not a lot a movement in the shaft. Think the current seal is just old and knackered |
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Post by looey on Mar 3, 2016 18:41:19 GMT 1
How many people have fitted a 7mm wide Gearchange shaft seal with greater success over the standard 5mm wide seal ?.
I have 2 double lipped seals here, one of each thickness.
Is it a worth while upgrade over the standard 5mm seal ?.
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Post by looey on Mar 3, 2016 17:54:00 GMT 1
Yep, this particular bike had 9's in when I bought it. I do put the 9's back in when I do track days, doesn't foul any plugs then  |
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Post by looey on Mar 3, 2016 15:00:41 GMT 1
Like has been said, it will be a different resolution depending if it's just one cylinder or they are both doing it.
When my YPVS engine was doing this, it was slightly over-jetted and running spark plugs that ran too cold (number too high).
I dropped a jet size and went from 9 to an 8 plugs and it's been fine ever since.
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Post by looey on Mar 2, 2016 20:10:44 GMT 1
Yeah looks like it is, just checked it on the Ace Cafe web-site. If the weather's good we'll be there, just got to get the growing list or repairs done so we've got 2 strokers to ride Worst case, we'll come on a couple of diesels |
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Post by looey on Mar 1, 2016 17:49:12 GMT 1
Yeah I always check the parts lists before I buy anything. Quite often cheaper than buying pattern tat |
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Post by looey on Mar 1, 2016 16:20:36 GMT 1
Done it now, fixed it in with the tiniest slither of slow cure original Araldite, which claims to be petrol resistant. I ain't paying £65 for a new tap just cos the internal filter isn't a tight fit |
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Post by looey on Mar 1, 2016 12:03:47 GMT 1
Just refurbed a genuine 350LC Tap but the on/reserve pipe/gauze plastic part that pushes into the top of the tap and resides in the tank isn't very tight.
I reckon just the petrol sloshing about in the tank will probably knock it out sooner or later.
Anyone glued this back in successfully before or anyone know what to use to stick this back in ?.
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Post by looey on Feb 28, 2016 22:09:44 GMT 1
Are the Yambits ones good ?, anyone tried and tested ?. Fitted a set to mine in September last year, went on hassle free, bike is no different as to what it was before.. Cool thanks, sounds like they are a good option for new  |
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Post by looey on Feb 28, 2016 20:25:41 GMT 1
Fit a new dial and get a needle off a German one or paint that needle orange and it will be fine :-) Yeah that's the route I'll probably have to take, think finding a correct speedo to fit in there isn't going to happen |
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Post by looey on Feb 28, 2016 14:56:47 GMT 1
save yourself the hassle sell it me No , it's gonna be for Tracey to keep this one |
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Post by looey on Feb 28, 2016 14:28:34 GMT 1
Are the Yambits ones good ?, anyone tried and tested ?. |
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Post by looey on Feb 28, 2016 14:22:15 GMT 1
tight git ,send Norbo 35 quid ;-) lol No, there's 2 on a twin, so that will be £70 + post It will very quickly become a get very expensive recommission if I keep spending £££ like that |
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