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Post by Mr M T Pockets on Mar 1, 2016 15:35:07 GMT 1
hi my rd350 ypvs fouls plugs ,it has nothing to do with the carbs, exhaust ,all of the part to make up the ignition system , crank seals, reed valves ,cylinder head, barrels oil pump, piston rings as they have all been checked,has any one had any experience of labyrinth seal failure ,could this be my problem thanks steven
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Post by arrow on Mar 1, 2016 16:10:33 GMT 1
Is it one or both sides?
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Post by bare on Mar 2, 2016 19:41:15 GMT 1
Wirings then? Plug leads and connectors do wear.
Could be clever to add in a decent Earth wire circuit.
Definitely from the Battery terminal to the frame. And one from engine to frame won't hurt :-)
Factory Yama wirings were niggardly on ground wirings.
Many (most) looms feature melted black wires as testimony to that.
May not help, but will certainly forestall hidden issues.
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Post by Delbert on Mar 2, 2016 22:25:51 GMT 1
Standard state of tune ? With std jetting ?
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Post by jessy03 on Mar 3, 2016 13:14:21 GMT 1
What about a hotter plug - BR8ES
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Post by looey on Mar 3, 2016 15:00:41 GMT 1
Like has been said, it will be a different resolution depending if it's just one cylinder or they are both doing it.
When my YPVS engine was doing this, it was slightly over-jetted and running spark plugs that ran too cold (number too high).
I dropped a jet size and went from 9 to an 8 plugs and it's been fine ever since.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Mar 3, 2016 16:04:23 GMT 1
Ypvs should use 8's anyway as standard
Steve
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Post by looey on Mar 3, 2016 17:54:00 GMT 1
Yep, this particular bike had 9's in when I bought it. I do put the 9's back in when I do track days, doesn't foul any plugs then   |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Mar 3, 2016 19:41:55 GMT 1
Yep, this particular bike had 9's in when I bought it. I do put the 9's back in when I do track days, doesn't foul any plugs then I run the 9's in my 385. Seems to like them better Steve |
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Post by Mr M T Pockets on Sept 3, 2016 16:50:11 GMT 1
hi all , i have found the problem,or should i say problems,on my 31k n1 , the first was the oil pump setting ,on the n1,should be set with the throttle relaxed and not wide open ,when i checked it, it was in the middle of the two dots,so after purchasing three complete throttle cables and using different sections of all three ,dont ask me why, its in the correct position,.another thing to look for ,when fitting the oil pump cable to oil pump the cable has to be with the CABLE BEHIND the spring locator when fitting ,its a real ball bag job to do, but can be made easier when tying a piece off fishing line around the spring plus i was constantly having to jet the bike running with a size 40 pilot jet, only 1/2 turn on the mixture screw ,anything after that ,the bike would die or run very flat between 2 and 3000 rpm ,and a 310 main ,my petrol consumption is horrendous , i then purchased a leak down kit and found a huge air leak on the crankcase halves,so after stripping the engine i have found no sealant on the case halves , so now after 9 years of waiting patiently searching on eBay for a certain seat cover that i wanted , i have started to restore the bike ,i mot,ed it a couple of weeks ago and was riding it for the first time in 9 years , the fun lasted about a week and that,s when i found the air leak and now its back in bits,
so now i am facing a top end rebore and a few other things £££££ ,new clutch basket ypvs bushes etc and all the rd ROT things that goes with the job ,i shall wait until i have finished to show my project,it looks awesome ,and in the week i road it i had so many people interested in the bike ,it gets annoying after a while ,any way i cannot recommenced enough a leak down kit if your having running issues with jetting
thanks for all your replies
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Post by arrow on Sept 3, 2016 17:22:20 GMT 1
You can use the mark on the oil pump pulley at the full bore position, no problem. The two methods are only minimum stroke dependant.
Cable on top of spring end is fairly well known.
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