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Post by looey on Apr 4, 2016 16:44:15 GMT 1
Then offered me outside the silly man What do you mean by that ?, take you outside for a bare knuckle scrap ?. |
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Post by looey on Apr 2, 2016 21:53:01 GMT 1
Looey when you went to the post office were you able to get taxed for free there and then or did you have to wait for V5 to come back? Greg It was taxed for free there and then. I then wrote the Taxation Class change on the V5, gave it to the Post Office man, and he sent it off to action the change. The day the vehicle becomes eligable for free Tax, the system knows and the charge is now free. The Post Office just need to Tax the bike in the same way they would normally and it will say the payment is nil. Try another Post Office, they obviously don't know the process. |
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Post by looey on Apr 2, 2016 19:43:35 GMT 1
Sell it and get a Honda C90   |
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Post by looey on Apr 2, 2016 16:54:00 GMT 1
Standard tune ?, Standard Airbox/Filter or Pod Filters ?.
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Post by looey on Apr 2, 2016 16:52:33 GMT 1
That's not that much is it?, some Yamahas are 150nm / 111 lb/ft  |
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Post by looey on Apr 2, 2016 10:29:13 GMT 1
Yeah but if you have a V5C and your bike was registered on or before 31st December 1975 it will be free to Tax from yesterday. One of our bikes was registered 31st December 1974 (luckily in on the last day) and we got it done last year. I took the V5 in on 31st March to Tax it for the next day and it wouldn't do it. Took it in the next day (1st April) and no problem to Tax it for free and send the V5 off with the change  |
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Post by looey on Apr 2, 2016 9:44:34 GMT 1
Nope, I did this last year.
You need to wait until the very day the bike becomes eligable for free/Historic Tax (1st April after it was 40 years old on the 31st December just gone)
On that day (1st April) or any day after that date, you can take your V5C to the post office to Tax it, when he scans the V5C it will recognise it is now free, Tax the bike and charge you nothing.
At the same time, write "HISTORIC VEHICLE" on the Taxation Class changes section, then they will take the V5C from you and send it off.
A couple of weeks later you will get your new V5C back with the Taxation Class changed and job done.
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Post by looey on Apr 1, 2016 17:36:00 GMT 1
A couple of years ago I was struggling to get my 250 X7 through noise testing at a Track day. Took half the wadding out the cans and loosely packed them with loft insulation (just enough in there to stop the baffles rattling) and it dropped the db enough to get it through |
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Post by looey on Apr 1, 2016 17:24:55 GMT 1
Pull the baffles right out and whatever comes with them.
Then get the rest of the old wadding out (poke a long screwdriver or similar in there to loosen it).
Then re-wrap the ends on the baffles and slide them back in.
Worth noting that the tighter you pack them, then noisier the pipes will be (the sound gets absorbed better by looser packing)
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Post by looey on Mar 29, 2016 13:14:03 GMT 1
One of ours has Allspeeds, Pod filters, standard tune and has been running 290's for a long time (including a few track days)
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Post by looey on Mar 28, 2016 18:35:40 GMT 1
thought original small can microns didn't have bolt on end cans.. They didn't, these are the later larger can bolt on type |
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Post by looey on Mar 28, 2016 17:12:25 GMT 1
Being the least desirable later droopy can type, and with the damage & rust, £250 maybe ? |
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Post by looey on Mar 28, 2016 10:33:13 GMT 1
Aaaaaahh, so it's a good fit into the cush drive bearing but the inside diameter is too large for the wheel spindle ?.
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Post by looey on Mar 27, 2016 20:07:26 GMT 1
And the 70mph winds   |
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Post by looey on Mar 27, 2016 17:35:06 GMT 1
They can only go in one way because of the pin slot, but you can put them in the wrong carbs back to front.
Each slide has a chamfer on one side at the bottom, that will be at the rear (airbox side of the carb) when they are the correct way around.
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Post by looey on Mar 27, 2016 11:43:22 GMT 1
I assume there's no play in the rear wheel itself or swingarm ?, which suggests the spacing is correct across the spindle ?. If there's no movement in the wheel and only in the sprocket carrier, then I'd be very surprised if that would effect the handling at all. Is the stepped spacer from the sprocket carrier a nice interference fit in the sprocket carrier bearing ?. With the head bearings they can be fiddly to get the tightness correct, especially as most people don't realise that when you do the top yoke top nut up, it does apply some extra pressure and change the adjustment, so some trial and error is needed. Basically you want them adjusted tight enough so that there is no free play in the bearings that can felt when pulling backwards and forwards on the bottom of the forks with the wheel in the air. They should free enough that the bars will drop from side to side freely and when you hold the bars and turn them slowly from side to side, you shouldn't feel any resistance at the point when you stop and change direction, if you do, they are slightly too tight. Hope that helps |
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Post by looey on Mar 26, 2016 12:13:58 GMT 1
Depends also if they have any voltage regulation on the lighting circuit. They don't on some bikes, the combined resistance of all the bulbs creates the correct resistance.
It's quite common on say an old FS1-E that if the headlight bulb goes, if you don't change it fairly quickly, you will loose the Speedo illumination bulb or possibly the tail light..... lol
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Post by looey on Mar 25, 2016 9:12:54 GMT 1
Saying heavy showers at the moment, so unless it changes I doubt many will go |
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Post by looey on Mar 24, 2016 15:25:22 GMT 1
I think that only shows the difference between the early and later types of caliper and which pad type they take ?. These are the same as each other, as in they are both the later type, but trying to find out what the codes stamped on them might mean (if anything) Cheers anyway |
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Post by looey on Mar 24, 2016 11:52:27 GMT 1
Is your old one knackered ?. I bet FizzyDoctor could make a nice replica with an original to use as a template ?. Just a thought ? |
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Post by looey on Mar 24, 2016 11:43:02 GMT 1
Anyone know what the codes refer to on the LC calipers ?.
Refurbing a pair on a 1982 LC350 (pistons/seals etc.) and pretty sure they didn't start life together ?.
The left one has L2, the right has R8.
Any ideas ?.
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Post by looey on Mar 24, 2016 10:16:32 GMT 1
Cheers Russ can get to there trick bits but not standard parts seems odd That link works on my PC Lance, just scroll down ?. And stop spending money ......lol |
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Post by looey on Mar 22, 2016 17:23:36 GMT 1
Do the lights run directly from a generator lighting coil, or from the battery via a reg/rec on these ?.
On a lot of old 6v systems, the headlight, tail light and instrument night lighting run directly from the lighting coil, everything else runs via the battery.
Easy way to tell is what needs the bike to be running to work ?.
Once you know that it's fairly easy with a meter to tell what's getting the right voltage and what isn't.
Hope that helps
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Post by looey on Mar 20, 2016 19:22:05 GMT 1
Just us 3 by the looks of it But if the weather is good, all the usual suspects will be coming |
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Post by looey on Mar 20, 2016 19:19:54 GMT 1
No it's not normal, no petrol should be dripping out anywhere,
It's probably flooding which is why it's difficult to start ?.
If you've got petrol coming out of the overflow (with the bike running or not) it will be one of the following.....
Float heights wrong
Floats sticking
Needle valve body O ring leaking
Needle valve seat not sealing (could be worn or dirt on the seat/point)
It's a 5 minute job to check all those options once the carbs are off.
Or take them back if you paid for the carbs to be done ?.
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Post by looey on Mar 20, 2016 10:58:17 GMT 1
125 looks well, I traded in my 07 last year for a new blazing orange 09 love its engine but the suspension needs some work, going to get it looked at once its had gearbox recall done. What gearbox recall has the MT09 got to have ?. I hope it's not like the 2014/15 R1's which have all their owners spitting feathers ?. Imagine spending £20k+ on a new bike that's been built to perfection at Yamaha, then have to take it to your local Yamaha dealer to have the engine taken out and completely stripped to change gears in the gearbox  . They aren't stacked rear gearboxes like some earlier R1 models, so it's a complete engine strip. Most dealers can't even change a tyre without damaging the rim, let alone doing all that work to a brand new £20k+ bike  |
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Post by looey on Mar 19, 2016 14:53:07 GMT 1
the import crack has some confusion attached i think.. when a bike is basicly the same as are rd125lc from diffent countrys its shouldnt matter. the stigma for imports i think is when its like the rz500 which has less bhp than the rd500.. american 70,s jap bikes with high bars and different mudguards and so.. were what people originaly shuned.. but then all the imports fell in the same sack.. The only difference that can put people off (the same as with the 250LC & 350LC) is that the steering lock is not integral to the ignition on most imports and is a separate lump of metal on the left side of the headstock. |
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Post by looey on Mar 18, 2016 18:15:16 GMT 1
They look good  Only observation would be that, I think they will need a countersunk screw setup on the 2 screws that hold the number plate holder section to the subframe or the bolt heads will soon damage the number plate ?. |
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Post by looey on Mar 17, 2016 13:22:52 GMT 1
Tis true all that Depends what you want to do with them also. Do you want to sit and look at them and tell everyone about your matching numbers unrestored UK bike, or get out and just enjoy riding them. My current white Mk1 10W matching numbers bike is a Swiss import, so has the steering lock on the headstock. Doesn't bother me at all, but I only paid £300 for the bike and probably have a total investment including the professional paintwork of around £800. The Candy blue I purchased brand new in December 1983, I chromed the side stand and sprayed the wheels gold before it turned a wheel |
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Post by looey on Mar 16, 2016 14:06:15 GMT 1
Yeah I did see that but they've only cancelled anything official being organised by the Ace Cafe. I'm 99% sure it won't make the slightest difference on the day and everyone will just do what they always do each year The Facebook group are saying everyone will be going as normal. |
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. They aren't stacked rear gearboxes like some earlier R1 models, so it's a complete engine strip.
