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Post by looey on Feb 28, 2016 13:50:11 GMT 1
What's the crack with sourcing replacement inlet rubbers for a 250/350LC ?.
Are they the Holy Grail to get in good used condition ?.
Are the pattern ones cr*p and to be avoided ?.
Cheapest I can see new are from Norbo at £35 each ?.
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Post by looey on Feb 28, 2016 13:08:38 GMT 1
Just started a recommission (not restoration) of a matching numbers UK 4L0 350LC. It's had this Speedo fitted at some time in its life, does anyone know what model it's from ?. I'm going to need to buy a few "good used" condition parts for it (not mint or they'll stick out like a sore thumb on it...  )  |
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Post by looey on Feb 21, 2016 13:15:44 GMT 1
Yeah cheers guys, looks like Suzuki or Kawasaki ones are the way to go once I've got the old ones out and got measurements to check. Haven't bought the seal kits yet but I've got the part numbers for the correct 3XC caliper seal kits from Yamaha (there's no joint O ring included). Sounds like FZR250 will be a good alternative if they 3XC kits are NLA  The brakes are ferocious on this thing, as they have a twin disc and caliper setup as opposed to just one on the TZR250. I did actually think at one point of removing one of the discs and calipers and putting a singe line on to see if the braking was similar to the TZR single disc setup ?. I did my GSX-R1000 six pots a couple of years ago and the genuine seal kits came with 4x joint O rings but the calipers only use one each, so I still have the 2 over from that job, so I'll see if they are the same size (I'd need to buy an additional 2 obviously). |
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Post by looey on Feb 20, 2016 9:42:06 GMT 1
So what is everyone doing about Caliper joint O rings when refurbing Yamaha brake calipers ?. I'm just about to refurb Tracey's R1-Z (3XC) front brake calipers and wanted to fit all new genuine seals. Couldn't see the caliper joint O rings in the parts microfiche or included as part of the genuine caliper seal kit. So I rang my local Yam dealer who said, "Yamaha stopped selling them ages ago, as there wasn't enough demand for them"  . Well I said, if you're refurbing the caliper and fitting new seals, you really need to split the caliper to do the job.  He also said there were 3 different types/sizes of joint O ring across all the different caliper types and didn't know what the sizes were I needed  I know Powerhouse supply a pattern kit which includes all the seals, joint o rings, bleed nipples, etc. etc. but I don't really want to fit pattern. Anyone got any ideas or been here before ?. Cheers |
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Post by looey on Feb 20, 2016 9:33:58 GMT 1
Yes that would be good, didnt know about those. you just need a rod and some cones, simple to make. Mine has fine bearings on both ends, so with the wheel fitted it will move the heaviest point to the bottom however slight the weight difference is. It's very accurate. |
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Post by looey on Feb 19, 2016 10:57:16 GMT 1
I used to get all my tyres fitted and balanced for £5 each at my local Infinity Motorcycles but when they closed, everyone else seemed to want £15+ a tyre for 2 minutes work  , or be totally incapable of fitting the tyre correctly (i.e. yellow dot at valve) and then balance them correctly. I even had a front tyre fitted to my GSX-R1000 and first lap on track the vibration at the front was so bad, I had to come in and lost a 20 minute session on track whilst I took my front wheel off and paid the on site tyre guy £5 to re-balance it So I thought bugger it, I'll invest in some equipment and do them myself forever more. I bought a breaker like this www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Tyre-Bead-Breaker-/121836096768?hash=item1c5dff4d00:g:2hcAAOSwbdpWZ-O8And a balancer like this www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Professional-Motorcycle-Wheel-Balancing-Truing-Stand-Red-Quality-Steel-/401059232941?hash=item5d60fe3cad:g:PXgAAOSwv0tVB2akPlus 3 decent tyre levers, 4 rim protector plastics, £5 worth of weights and some double sided sticky padded tape (to re-use the weights forever). I've now done 10+ tyre changes including 190 rears on the GSXR and got my money back a long time ago on what I paid out. Don't get me wrong, on the big tyres it's still a bit of a workout and helps with 2 people but on smaller stuff like the 2-strokes etc. it's very very easy |
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Post by looey on Feb 16, 2016 15:24:05 GMT 1
If I'm right, the imports had a few things engine-wise different and were lower power than UK 11A model.
What's the frame prefix on this one, 10X ?.
I'd say £1,500 - £2,000 tops for a nice condition import, never £3k.
I know there's not many about but not a great demand for them either.
I remember a guy trying to sell a few on ebay last year. He was telling everyone how valuable and in demand they were and they were for sale for absolutely ages !!!
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Post by looey on Feb 16, 2016 10:41:16 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Feb 15, 2016 23:17:53 GMT 1
I'll dig out the copies of the spec I had tomorrow.
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Post by looey on Feb 15, 2016 22:53:56 GMT 1
If it's any help, I had a fairly well tuned F2 by Taymar running Swarbricks and the airbox gutted right out and I'm pretty sure it was running 330 mains in the original Powerjets.
Are the 1UA carbs Powerjets ?, I can't remember, it's been quite a few years.
I can dig out the receipt with the jetting specs and pictures of the modified airbox tomorrow if it helps ?.
Just let me know
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Post by looey on Feb 5, 2016 12:39:01 GMT 1
Is this not the definitive world wide list on RD350LC.net ?.  |
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Post by looey on Feb 5, 2016 11:15:48 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Jan 28, 2016 21:35:23 GMT 1
Probably won't be there this year  but I doubt it would be the same without the mighty Chef doing his magic   |
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Post by looey on Jan 23, 2016 11:40:28 GMT 1
It's a good point about the heat. Obviously I did this in the garage in the middle of winter but the Garage is integral to the house and heated, so is never below 12 degrees in there, even on the coldest sub-zero days. I'm sure even doing the process outside on a mild day with the tank in the sun would massively speed up the process |
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Post by looey on Jan 18, 2016 12:49:47 GMT 1
Thanks for the report, defo looks better. I do wonder how it is for getting deep into the seams if there is the agitation issue? Yeah, from my experience it won't completely remove the rust from areas it can't be physically agitated from but whether it kills it is another question ?. |
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Post by looey on Jan 18, 2016 12:34:03 GMT 1
Ok, as this is a subject that affects many people with classic bikes, I thought I'd take the time to share my experience so that is might help others in the future.......... Having seen this product recommended a couple of times by Oldelsieboy and also Mr Marsbar telling me he'd recently had good results with it, I thought I'd have a go. Up to now, I've always used the Vinegar soaking treatment, but that is a pretty aggressive method and eats petrol taps etc. and if any part of your tank had the original nice shiny silver finish, well say goodbye to that   . It also leaves the newly eaten bare metal finish very venerable which tends to surface flash rust over quicker than you can get the Vinegar out . Yesterday I used the Deox C treatment to clean the rust from the bottom 3 inches of a spare LC tank I have (above that level it is like brand new). My tank is solid, and only recently had a 2 week leak test absolutely full to the neck with petrol Here's what I found, and a few tips from what I experienced and what I'd do different next time....... I made blanking plate for the tap hole using a piece of 3mm ally sheet with holes drilled to match the tap screw holes. I then cut a piece of H/D inner tube to match the plate as the gasket. I only needed 3 Litres of solution, so mixed 300g of Deox to 2,700ml (100g / 900ml is the recommended mix) of HOT tap water in a cleaned out old 5 Litre plastic Screen wash container. Now it takes a while to dissolve the powder, so keep it in the container for at least 10 mins or so, giving a good shake from time to time. I didn't mix it for long enough, so even though I got all the water and powder in the tank, after it settled, I had clear water with the powder just sitting in the bottom of the tank . No problem though, a couple of minutes swishing the solution back & forth in the tank and it soon it had dissolved fully and disappeared to the naked eye. Next thing I learned........ Whist it does gradually dissolve the rust over time, it does need agitating to get off what it has dissolved. It does not just clean it off sitting there. My solution was gradually turning slightly orange (more piss coloured actually  ) but the affected areas still looked 50% as rusty as they had started. The instructions do say to take the item out of the solution and agitate the rust, then re-submerge if further de-rusting is required. Not so easy at the bottom of an LC tank but what I did in the end was gently (ish) swish the solution from the front to back of the tank in like a wave motion and sure enough it just became cleaner and cleaner over a few minutes until the tank surface was perfectly clean and silver . Now my solution had been in there for about 8 hrs, so who knows at what point it had done it's work, but if I was doing it again I would leave it for a few hours, then give the solution a swish about every hour or so until the surface has become clean and silver. I fairly sure in my case that it would probably have been long before the 8 hours mine was in soak without any intervention. After that, drain and filter the solution back into your container (can be used again and again until it turns black apparently), then I stuck the garden hose in there and ran it for 30 seconds or so to flush all the solution out. I then got it dry inside as quickly as poss with a combination of shaking the tank with the tap hole open, then kitchen roll, then a hairdryer. You will get a tiny bit of surface rust re-appear but hardly anything. Here's some pics of before and after (not great pics but you can see what it achieved)     |
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Post by looey on Jan 5, 2016 22:46:51 GMT 1
Yep, that's the company I was talking to. It could've happened but not enough people in the X7 community were interested, I imagine it will be a lot different for the LCs |
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Post by looey on Jan 5, 2016 22:15:29 GMT 1
I did all this on the X7 forum to try and get some tanks made, I even sent a tank of mine that I haven't got back. We got right down to the detail of making sure the tanks would accept the standard taps and caps but the main problem seemed (excuse the pun  ) to be replicating the pressed seams all around the tank, which apparently could only be replicated using the production machinery ?. Getting an alloy replica was do-able (but without being able to replicate the seams) but when it came to it, nobody wanted to part with any £££ to get the project started. Are you talking to him about steel or ally tanks ?. Ally would be great for obvious reason. Hope you have more luck, as I'd certainly be interested in buying one or two |
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Post by looey on Jan 5, 2016 18:53:44 GMT 1
And I remember falling off my Marsbar 350LC in 84 and denting the tank (I was gutted) A few weeks later, walked into a Yamaha dealer with me dad (think it was in New Malden, Surrey), was walking up the stairs to the parts department, and there it was hanging from the wall, a brand spankers tank in Marbar colours  . £85 and a couple of minutes later and it was on the way home with us If only eh ?. |
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Post by looey on Dec 16, 2015 10:36:29 GMT 1
I feel your pain man but get it sorted and it will be well worth it I had to do pretty much the same with the YPVS engine in my Hybrid. Bores were worn, Power Valves absolutely shot, crank not rebuildable, kickstart mechanism knackered, gear selector shaft knackered, bla bla bla Had Karl and KP Motor Solutions weld up and machine back to spec the valves, new uprated Hotrods crank from Martin at MBD (he's on here), rebore, pistons and genuine everything else to make everything as spot-on as we could get it. Done quite a few miles now including a couple of track days and was well worth the pain. It won't be cheap but well worth it . Good luck |
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Post by looey on Dec 14, 2015 16:16:15 GMT 1
Unless it's really bad I'd just live with it.
I've tried every oil over the years and none have made the slightest difference to the common neutral selection issue in the LC and YPVS engines.
Once you get used to it, you should easily be able to tap into neutral from 2nd just before you stop moving. If you miss it, then with a blip of the throttle and as the revs drop, you should be able to get it into neutral on the first 1st or 2nd attempt.
The last person I was with riding an LC who said it was impossible for them to get neutral unless the engine wasn't running, I jumped on their bike and demonstrated both the above and they were suitably impressed and have done the same ever since and agrees it's not really a problem anymore.
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Post by looey on Dec 12, 2015 17:17:52 GMT 1
Item been removed already (not ended early) poss. a bit dodgy  ?. |
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Post by looey on Dec 12, 2015 15:08:22 GMT 1
Load of gobledygoop that advert Goes on about how rare this white kit is, then it reads like the advert and price is for a black set and the white costs more ??. Guess you'd have to ask about collection, as he doesn't list it as an option. |
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Post by looey on Dec 7, 2015 21:32:48 GMT 1
I hear your pain The black tank is from a big breakers and there are pretty good high resolution pictures of the inside, underneath and of the seams. If you buy from them and it isn't good or doesn't hold fuel you can just return it ?. That's what I'd do. |
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Post by looey on Dec 7, 2015 11:25:45 GMT 1
There's 2 on eBay that look worth a punt, as by the sounds of yours I'd be throwing that in the bin and not wasting your time or the money on trying to line it.
There's a blue one for £80 that looks like it's ok, and a black one for £115 that looks pretty good ?.
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Post by looey on Dec 4, 2015 16:55:00 GMT 1
Yeah, that level of detail doesn't bother me, even on my nice standard LC but it's all good for the knowledge bank Every day is a School day eh ? |
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Post by looey on Dec 3, 2015 20:28:37 GMT 1
Oh Ive just noticed you were the seller ?.... lol
I've got 2 LCs, both have matching locks with genuine keys, one bike has the smooth plastic cap with the offset lock, the other has the same cap you just sold. They both look identical at the rear.
Are we saying that the grainy finish one with the slightly raised centre and the lock in the centre is a genuine cap but wouldn't have been fitted to a 4L0 when new ?
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Post by looey on Dec 3, 2015 20:00:04 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Dec 2, 2015 22:25:30 GMT 1
I use Chemical Metal by Plastic Padding.
It's heat resistant and very easy to fill with, as it's fairly fluid after it's mixed with the hardener.
Done several pipes in the past and a couple I have now, always been good.
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Post by looey on Nov 28, 2015 20:56:58 GMT 1
I've used Plastic Padding's Chemical Metal on a fuel tank and on a car fuel pump shell in the past and it worked very well (says it's petrol resistant on the instructions) It was supposed to be a temporary measure on the outside on a tank (just rubbed the area down, bit of rust kill, then a slither of Chemical Metal over top). It was on there for a couple of years and never failed |
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)
. Well I said, if you're refurbing the caliper and fitting new seals, you really need to split the caliper to do the job. 
, or be totally incapable of fitting the tyre correctly (i.e. yellow dot at valve) and then balance them correctly.
but I doubt it would be the same without the mighty Chef doing his magic 
) but the affected areas still looked 50% as rusty as they had started. The instructions do say to take the item out of the solution and agitate the rust, then re-submerge if further de-rusting is required. Not so easy at the bottom of an LC tank but what I did in the end was gently (ish) swish the solution from the front to back of the tank in like a wave motion and sure enough it just became cleaner and cleaner over a few minutes until the tank surface was perfectly clean and silver 
) to be replicating the pressed seams all around the tank, which apparently could only be replicated using the production machinery ?.
. £85 and a couple of minutes later and it was on the way home with us 
?.