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Post by hudtm60 on Mar 10, 2016 8:15:18 GMT 1
Got a couple of issues- firstly being my replacement of the water pump seal, bearing and metal water pipe O-ring and metal clip doesn't appear to have been successful as after a 3-4 mile run I checked oil level and water appeared to be invading the oil again- it clearly wasn't just the residue of the previous incident. My questions are: 1-having drained the oil decided I'd have to disassemble everything again. I had of course refilled the cooling system for the test ride so that would have to be drained. I undid the cylinder head drain bolts, both sides and nothing came out. Odd I thought. I detached the lower radiator to motor hose...nothing came out. I took off the side cover. Flood of water. Was there some kind of vacuum block? I had felt the lower radiator to motor hose when it was running and it was warm. 2- I'm sure I put in the seal properly...pics below...I noticed the impeller shaft has a very slight notch in it probably where the seal is...could that be the problem? Thinking I should get a new impeller?  Water side for sure  seal is flush as it can get...  bearing normally this far out?  only putting this in because it's probably the most beautiful gasket I've ever seen and that's after it's been used once.  is this wrong? (not detaching the oil pump pipes etc)  ANY advice wouild be gratefully received. |
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 10, 2016 8:28:14 GMT 1
Hi Did you take the rad cap off before trying to drain the water? Makes a difference when you do. Are your new seals genuine or of known good quality ? I would say if the groove in the impellor shaft is significant, then it may allow coolant past it. Norbo sells impellors, both standard and trick  Dusty  |
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Post by hudtm60 on Mar 10, 2016 8:37:09 GMT 1
Thanks Dusty- yes cap was off coz i was checking why it was dry...saw some water but thought it was minimal sitting on those internal metal rails- but think it was full.
Yes seals brand new from Norbo. I tried to get a trick metal impeller but he said would be couple of months so I thought...yeah...they don't wear out I'll keep the old one...but maybe they do...!
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Post by arrow on Mar 10, 2016 9:02:38 GMT 1
Is it just my eyes, but pics 2&3 the seal seems to have been turned around?
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Post by hudtm60 on Mar 10, 2016 9:07:54 GMT 1
just the angle i think....didn't move from here...  |
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Post by hudtm60 on Mar 10, 2016 9:08:47 GMT 1
hope you're doing well! my oil pumps' brilliant.. |
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Post by arrow on Mar 10, 2016 9:14:50 GMT 1
Yeh, the leg is good now, sorry to see you're having problems. Did you check for any blockages in the radiator? Got me stumped this one.
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Post by arrow on Mar 10, 2016 9:18:22 GMT 1
When you say took side cover off flood of water, which cover are you referring to?
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Post by muttsnuts on Mar 10, 2016 12:46:33 GMT 1
have you renewed the water seal on the connector pipe and is the end of the pipe all there as they do corrode away and then stop sealing, that seal is fragile and always a good idea to a new one on and put some good sealant around it just before you put the side casing back on
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Post by looey on Mar 10, 2016 13:38:30 GMT 1
Maybe I'm wrong but........
I always thought that if the casing connector pipe leaked at the seal, the coolant leaks out onto the top of the engine casing under the carbs, as the side casing gasket runs all around that hole so will not let the water into the casing to mix with the oil ?.
Like has been said, I always replace that seal anyway (unless it's recently been changed) and run a very thin smear of clear RTV silicone sealant over it.
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Post by headcoats on Mar 10, 2016 13:58:41 GMT 1
I use a new 0 ring on the elbow connector everytime Did you use a genuine water pump seal and grease the lips so wouldn't run dry |
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Post by muttsnuts on Mar 10, 2016 14:01:48 GMT 1
Maybe I'm wrong but........ I always thought that if the casing connector pipe leaked at the seal, the coolant leaks out onto the top of the engine casing under the carbs, as the side casing gasket runs all around that hole so will not let the water into the casing to mix with the oil ?. Like has been said, I always replace that seal anyway (unless it's recently been changed) and run a very thin smear of clear RTV silicone sealant over it. no if it leaks it generally goes in to the engine oil and makes it all look very milky ! |
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Post by looey on Mar 10, 2016 14:50:26 GMT 1
Maybe I'm wrong but........ I always thought that if the casing connector pipe leaked at the seal, the coolant leaks out onto the top of the engine casing under the carbs, as the side casing gasket runs all around that hole so will not let the water into the casing to mix with the oil ?. Like has been said, I always replace that seal anyway (unless it's recently been changed) and run a very thin smear of clear RTV silicone sealant over it. no if it leaks it generally goes in to the engine oil and makes it all look very milky ! Yeah, I've had the milky oil when an water pump seal failed on me but when I've had that seal leak around the ally pipe that goes through the engine casing, it leaked coolant out onto the top of the engine ?. How does the coolant get past the casing gasket that goes 360 degress around that pipe opening ?. |
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Post by muttsnuts on Mar 10, 2016 14:53:25 GMT 1
well it does, I've done about 2 dozen bikes with that exact issue, in fact I've never had it just come out onto the top casing, its always gone into then engine
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Post by looey on Mar 10, 2016 14:54:43 GMT 1
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Post by greeny on Mar 10, 2016 16:16:31 GMT 1
Yeh, the leg is good now, sorry to see you're having problems. Did you check for any blockages in the radiator? Got me stumped this one. Dont tell me they had to remove your lower leg...  |
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Post by steeley on Mar 10, 2016 17:33:46 GMT 1
hi ,I have seen the wrong size o ring supplied for the ali pipe . as muttsnuts says if this seal is no good the coolant ends up in that casing .
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Post by hudtm60 on Mar 10, 2016 20:10:33 GMT 1
It was when I took off the right hand casing of the motor (not just the water pump over) that the water came flooding out OF THE ALREADY DISCONNECTED BOTTOM RADIATOR HOSE ....with the casing in place there must have been some kind of airlock btw the water pump to casing connector pipe to hose up to the top of the cylinder head...I guess much like you holding the top of a straw and lifting it out of your drink....I think I know what I mean. ANYWAY....i guess this is a good sign that the metal & rubber seals (which I just replaced) on the ali pipe are good and the only weakness is the barely felt groove in the impeller shaft. Hard to believe it after only an alleged 16k miles but anyway on a wing and a prayer of impatience as (I'm not sure if it will fit) I ordered a "Vito's Performance Yamaha Banshee water pump impeller BILLET ALUMINUM 1987-2006"....we'll see in 5 or 7 Business Days.... also going to flush out the radiator just in case.... still doesn't explain why there was no water in the barrels tho....could it be that the thermostat didn't open? is there a thermostat? that's up to me to check I guess. as to whether the coolant can get past the casing gasket...into the engine....even though the ali pipe is enveloped by a tunnel made in the casing and it would have to leak past the O-ring the metal ring AND the casing gasket...applying Murphy's Law...you know the answer...   |
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Post by hudtm60 on Mar 17, 2016 3:51:22 GMT 1
Just to close the thread....pretty sure it was a groovy impeller, if you know what I mean. I sourced a new alloy one (actually meant for a Banshee), put it all back together and 40 miles later oil is still clear and it's running at the right temp....interestingly as pretty as it may look....not making it run significantly cooler than it used to- but I'm good with it.  |
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Post by unrealedd on Mar 17, 2016 7:42:43 GMT 1
Good work, now you can get out there and enjoy it.
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Post by bare on Mar 18, 2016 3:49:55 GMT 1
Can you feel a groove in the "old" impeller shaft when you run your Fingernail along it??
IF so then you've identified the problem.. and fixed it.
IF not? then there are other problems that will resurface.
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