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Post by steven on Mar 29, 2017 22:49:46 GMT 1
Interesting thread ! ... a few of us used to take it in turns to get a "Betty Crocker" chocolate muffin mix and make some "buns" for going away on the bikes camping. Cant go camping without an old tupperware box full of "buns" !
As for that "modern" very strong "green" that they are all growing in their back rooms, and selling for £200 or more an ounce, WILL, if you smoke it often enough, make you have a kangaroo loose in the top padock ! I have seen it happen to a couple of folk. I think that stuff, is lots more potent than any of the "solid" that was about when we were all young ! steven.
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Post by steven on Mar 14, 2017 19:15:23 GMT 1
...nice video........no Mars Bars ! edit:- oops, only watched the first video, need to go and watch the others now.
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Post by steven on Mar 14, 2017 18:57:45 GMT 1
I get emails almost daily too from them, saying my account is almost full and all my pics will he lost. I opened up a second account with them using a second email address and so far so good. Do all your pics dissapear if you dont upgrade/subscribe then ? steven.
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Post by steven on Mar 14, 2017 18:50:24 GMT 1
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Post by steven on Mar 13, 2017 1:26:45 GMT 1
... 22 bids, someone likes it. the "flush fit" or "air craft type filler cap" is rather intriguing !
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Post by steven on Mar 13, 2017 1:00:58 GMT 1
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Post by steven on Mar 11, 2017 13:05:03 GMT 1
Did you see the fried eggs? I didnt see any fried eggs, but I saw some Scammell wheels nuts and some JCB starter buttons ! Very informative, thank you. I need a wee lie down now, after watching that !
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Post by steven on Mar 11, 2017 2:41:39 GMT 1
....that would be handy for honing your barrels out, wonder if it comes with other attachements ?
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Post by steven on Mar 10, 2017 10:13:08 GMT 1
.... Looks like that has been done with a worn Stanley wood butchers screwdriver ! I have a set of 350 barrels with the "347cc" removed. I always wondered if it was done by a racer in a 250 cc class ? or a youth, in the days when you could still drive a 250 on L plates ? It was obviousely done by someone who did not know about the 4L1/4L0 thing, as you can see, they have left the 4L0 still in place. :-) steven.
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Post by steven on Mar 9, 2017 22:30:47 GMT 1
..... im sure a rectangular type plate would work too Dusty. steven.
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Post by steven on Mar 9, 2017 22:08:24 GMT 1
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Post by steven on Mar 9, 2017 21:46:55 GMT 1
Hi Dusty, No probs. I also was confident, as I used all new gaskets and a calibrated Britool tourqe wrench to meticousely build my engine, or so I thought. ....and I found several leaks which I had to rectify ! :-( I just felt that I had spent so much time and money rebuilding it all, that I wanted the peace of mind, and I didnt want to be in a situation farther down the line wondering if it had air leaks, so I decided to do all the tests, which were a bit of fannying about, ......but Elsie is worth it ! :-) I understand about having lots going on only too well m8 ! They said computers were going to save us all time..... where is all this fekin time that they said computers would save us Cheers. steven.
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Post by steven on Mar 9, 2017 21:29:44 GMT 1
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Post by steven on Mar 9, 2017 21:20:29 GMT 1
Hi Dusty, Here is my test stuff I made up. The pressure is added with a bike hand pump via a sharader valve and the vacuum is pulled using my vacuum brake bleeder. I initialy used the four blanking plates on the inlet and exhaust flanges, then I machined the two ally plugs and tested it with the reeds in place also. The pressure is quite low, ie 6 psi and it has to hold it for about 10 minutes or so. I can,t remember how much vacuum, but there are plenty write ups online on how to do it if you have a look. You test both cylinders at once, as the lab seal lets the air pass through it. After that, I pressure tested my cooling system by butchering a radiator cap and utelising a piece of rubber inder the butchered radiator cap to seal the radiator, which means you can test the cooling system to slightly higher than operating pressure without the radiator cap valve opening/lifting. I introduced the pressure to the cooling system via the fitting on the radiator for the expansion hose fitting. You can then re fit your "proper" radiator cap, and check that it is opening at the correct pressure. I found a few radiataor caps that were not opening at the correct pressure. It is a bit of buggering about.....but I felt it was worth it for peace of mind. steven.
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Post by steven on Mar 7, 2017 9:13:01 GMT 1
Another top tip coming...... whenever I have leak down tested my LC engines, the reed blocks and gaskets always leak, so I now put the gaskets and the reed blocks on with some Yamahabond. Saves doing it after the leak down test. +1 I found the same when doing the pressure/vacuum tests. Hylomar is my prefered gasket goo. steven.
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Post by steven on Mar 5, 2017 13:06:43 GMT 1
5L4...... :-)
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Post by steven on Mar 5, 2017 12:40:39 GMT 1
Hi Dusty, Your engine looks delicious, all cleaned, polished and painted. I do like a good "tang" discussion !
I was like you and tried to build my engine as meticousely as I could. Paul at PJME did my re-bore and re-built my crank also. When he phoned me to tell me it was ready, I got chatting to him. While chatting to him on the phone, before I even mentioned tangs he said...... "your going to ask me about tangs now, arnt you?" I laughed and said yes, that was my next question.
Paul said that in his oppinion, removing the tangs is an urban myth. He said that he had done loads of LC engines and NEVER removed the tangs, and never had any issues. He said that if the piston can rock that much in the bore, that the piston hits the casing, then there is obviousely something else far wrong. Another thing he said was that if you type the LC piston part number into the computer, it says "now superseded by".....and gives the YPVS piston part number, which is obviousely the YPVS pistons with the tang. So pistons with the tang on them, are what Yamaha recommend.
Im no expert on LC engines, so I could only go on the advice of Paul at PJME, who I would say was an expert on Lc engines. I thought long and hard about it at the time, and decided, to go with the advice of Paul and Yamaha and I left the tangs on my pistons. This year will be the fourth year I have ran that engine with the tangs still on, and so far so good. I suppose time will tell. Cheers, steven.
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Post by steven on Feb 28, 2017 20:24:11 GMT 1
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Post by steven on Feb 28, 2017 19:24:39 GMT 1
Hi, Those pics I posted are making me feel old..... or older ! Thats the last thing I need at the moment, as I turned 50 last week and Im not taking it too well ! That first pic is me going camping with my 16 year old girl friend on the back, I was 18 or 19 at the time ! As you can see, I have the appropriate Adidas trainers and white socks on, complimented with the skin tight jeans that were the norm of the day. In the last pic I posted, a couple of my mates and I went touring the highlands of Scotland on our 2 strokes. As you can see, I have my "touring" gear on, which consisted of my old fishing jacket over the top of my leather jacket, and some yellow oil skin trousers. The yellow oil skins were "liberated" from the tow waggon at work where I was an apprentice. I recently found a picture online of the tow waggon that I "purloined" the yellow oil skins from, it was an AEC Matador, which was used during the war and after in various applications. After the war, and right up untill about the 90,s bus companies used converted AEC Matadors as breakdown waggons. I know this is not the place to be posting pics of old gun tractors, but I think it looks quite smart. steven. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AEC_Matador
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Post by steven on Feb 27, 2017 1:49:21 GMT 1
Hi, Here are a few of my Mars Bar LC "back in the day." Sorry to those that have already seen them, im sure I have posted them in the past. I must get to the loft and scan some more in. Cheers, steven. PS. Thats my "77 Chevy" in the first one too !
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Post by steven on Feb 25, 2017 15:29:41 GMT 1
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Post by steven on Jan 29, 2017 16:16:36 GMT 1
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Post by steven on Jan 29, 2017 12:03:15 GMT 1
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Post by steven on Jan 29, 2017 10:37:06 GMT 1
Hi, There was a Yamaha service bulletin when the pipes were cracking that suggested cutting the "top hat" bushes in the rear exhaust mountings down from 22mm to 20 mm. The line of thinking was that it allowed the pipes to move more with the engine,. There are posts on here somewhere about it if you use the search function.
Sorry I can't put the link up as I'm not at my PC and using my phone which I can hardly work..... or see ! Steven.
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Post by steven on Jan 28, 2017 17:26:07 GMT 1
Hi Noonster, Im guessing its a non tie bar model if its a 1980 vintage ? To answer your question....... re do them every 200 or so miles ! Mine is also an early LC of 1980 vintage, with origonal/old type barrels (the ones with the more mannly power band ! ) and its the only way I have found to keep the exhausts sealed 100% My feeling is that, it is the lack of tie bars that is allowing the engine to move a little bit on the engine mounting rubbers and things eventualy go slack, but I would also be interested to hear others thoughts too? The 200 odd mile figure varies slightly but that is the only method I have found. Have you done the "top hat" mod to your rear mountings for the exhausts ? steven.
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Post by steven on Jan 23, 2017 15:30:02 GMT 1
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Post by steven on Jan 23, 2017 15:22:56 GMT 1
... Oh yes, that would be nice, an old pre war 2 stroke. I read somewhere before, that these old Scotts had a bit of a cult following too in their day.... the Lc of the 20,s and 30,s ! I dont know if £10,000 would be enough though, would it ? steven.
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Post by steven on Jan 23, 2017 11:55:30 GMT 1
....probably something really old, as in pre war, but something that could still be used on the road.
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Post by steven on Jan 21, 2017 18:22:11 GMT 1
Hi, This is deffo my fav new youtube channel, I like John and his various videos. Here is another good one..... LOL @ 5 minutes and 5 seconds ! steven.
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Post by steven on Jan 18, 2017 11:09:57 GMT 1
He's confirmed it on his Facebook page apparently. ah, so he has, so its official then.
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