|
Post by dusty350 on Mar 12, 2017 22:53:23 GMT 1
Hi, Don't need any more projects in my life, but this one has been long overdue; 20170312_103242 by David Miller, on Flickr Yes, my 16x8 shed has seen better days and needs to be replaced. Bit of a mammoth job to be honest. End of last year I got a 6 yard skip and managed to fill it with all sorts that I had kept over the years and never touched ! I got this shed from a school that was being demolished about 25 years ago. I got it for free - just had to dismantle and remove it. It was the school sports shed and is made up of 4x2 framework, 13mm shiplap and 1 inch floorboards. I had it at my last house near Reading, and then brought it to my house now where it's stood for the last 20 years. I put the windows in, and lined it with 18mm ply. Unfortunately it has started to rot and the bearers underneath are failing - the floor is now sloping towards the back where the support has gone. I always wanted a bigger shed anyway as there is not enough room in my garage for bikes and a decent workspace. I am planning on a 20x10 shed which will be the size of the shed and decking in the pic. It will have a dividing wall with a single door, so a clean and dirty area, divided 12/8 ft. The front 12ft will be bike build area, tv, easy chairs, fridge etc, and the last 8ft will be bench, shelving, pillar drill etc. I will line it again, and insulate it this time too. Obviously light and power will be plumbed in as well. This is what I am thinking of at the mo; www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18-x10-19mm-APEX-HEAVY-DUTY-Shed-Workshop-Tanalised-with-Multi-framed-windows/222431027090?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107083358%26meid%3D56fe6306e8cf41ea93e87cc1cf8d2cb3%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D222386498419 They deliver and fit too, so all I need to do it dismantle and dispose of my current shed and then build a suitable base for the new one. Not sure what I will do regards base yet - I will clear the ground and then look at the most cost effective option. I did enquire about pumped concrete but that was in the region of £800 ! Anyway, I have started to demolish it. All the lining panels are out, and I have started smashing out the t&g boards from the inside. I will keep the roof on until all the sides are open - handy on a day like today where it was raining until 2pm; I will post pics, if I can stomach any more Photofu**it bullsh*t, as I go Dusty
|
|
|
Post by markhoopy on Mar 13, 2017 0:42:11 GMT 1
Barrow mix concrete is reasonably priced and you only pay for what you use. They do expect you and a few mates to help with the barrowing but if it saves money then a fair swap really!
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Mar 13, 2017 0:54:04 GMT 1
Great project Dusty, and will be wonderful when done. Ive recently had a 3rd go round at my garage and finally got everything in the right places and the floor painted, its like another world compared to how it was, seems bigger and is much cleaner etc.
|
|
|
Post by veg on Mar 13, 2017 7:45:17 GMT 1
I would always go for a concrete base, dig it out hire a cement mixer make sure you have a decent hardcore base and shutter it. Then proceed to concrete it, its hard work but very satisfying. Just beware more space means more bikes and projects. Tz replica anyone?
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Mar 13, 2017 8:08:35 GMT 1
I agree with Veg. Its a lot of concrete but it can be done in a day with a mixer if youve a few mates to come round and help, then have a few beers after with a bbq or pizza, happy days!
|
|
|
Post by LC_BOTT on Mar 13, 2017 8:22:24 GMT 1
Johnny no mates here, did all of mine, myself, split the floor up into sections, and concreted each one when my days-off came round, it took a while, but was worth it in the end, it's not pin point accurate, but v good, for what's needed and what was there in the first place, as I had the remnants of three sheds, most were wobbly and had leaky roofs. Good luck, we all like shed builds too
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Mar 13, 2017 8:45:50 GMT 1
Hi I actually really like the idea of pumped concrete. I have a very narrow back passage !! Actually it's a side passage but couldn't resist the double entendre ! The shed at the moment is sat on concrete posts - it was a quick and fairly reliable fix when I put the shed up all those years ago - new house, and a thousand jobs to do meant I didn't have the time or money for a proper base. Another issue I have is there are rats under the shed, a by product of my daughter wanting to keep a couple of chickens last year So a solid base with no voids would be better. I can see loads of burrow holes going under the shed at various points so will have to deal with them too. The concrete is about £450 but the pump which is a separate lorry is another £350, that's for 20x10 and 5" deep. All I would have to do is tamp it down as it's pumped in so it is tempting. Doing it manually may see my back give up completely !! I really need to clear the ground and mark out the perimeter to fully decide which way to go. Dusty
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Mar 13, 2017 8:49:23 GMT 1
Hi lc bott Yea, I love watching shed builds too. Really enjoyed the concrete shed build on here last year so thought I would share mine. My best mate has a mixer and is very good/methodical with things like this, and more importantly, has a good back !! I will get him round when the shed is down and we'll go from there. Dusty
|
|
|
Post by mouse on Mar 13, 2017 8:58:55 GMT 1
Now that is a shed!
Let me know if you hand a hand Dusty
Mouse
|
|
|
Post by Yogi on Mar 13, 2017 8:59:03 GMT 1
Hi Dusty I'm gonna enjoy watching this one unfold You do know the more room you've got the more projects you'll buy At first you'll be cautious but resistance is futile Good luck with the build Matt
|
|
|
Post by wassy on Mar 13, 2017 13:42:48 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by rigga on Mar 13, 2017 16:48:09 GMT 1
Only one rule with sheds and garages ......
Go as big as you possibly can, because it will never be big enough
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Mar 13, 2017 17:55:22 GMT 1
Hi I agree, you can never have a big enough shed, and it's a shame I have to store non related Rd items in it like lawn mower, gardening tools etc The rear most 10x8 that will be divided from the rest of the shed will be racked so I can get all the everyday stuff in there as well as a bench. I was ruthless last year in throwing away a lot of stuff I have spent years collecting. My mentality now is if I need a bit of timber for something I will go to the builders merchants 2 minutes from my house and buy it ! I want the front half to be more relaxed - some mood lighting, pastel shades on the walls - an area I can relax and reflect on life, and get piss*d with my mates !! I may even get a bike ramp, or make one - something that I have not been able to have before coz my garage is too short for one. It would be nice not to have to scramble around on the floor when bike building, and I don't know about you, but I often sit and stare at my bikes for ages, working out problems or planning the next step, so having room to do it will be nice. Hope to get some more done tomorrow. Dusty
|
|
|
Post by veg on Mar 13, 2017 18:23:54 GMT 1
LC powered ride on mower that's your next project and you're welcome.
|
|
|
Post by marsbar350 on Mar 13, 2017 19:29:10 GMT 1
looks a great project dusty.regarding your rat infestation
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Mar 13, 2017 19:53:59 GMT 1
Brilliant, that's the way to do it. Don't think my 2 springers would be that good though. I did find one burrow down the side of the shed yesterday that looked well used. Is it wrong that I poured some petrol down the hole, left it a few minutes for the vapour to build up, and then tossed a match in ? It did go with a bit of a flash, but no rats flushed out from other holes unfortunately. I'm not looking forward to lifting the shed floor Dusty
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on Mar 13, 2017 21:01:32 GMT 1
If you are doing a concrete base I'd put some steel in it as large slabs tend to cracked and move
Also when you are doing it hire one of those vibrating rod things to work through it to get rid of air pockets.
Worked with a guy who built himself a workshop with a self poured concrete base.
He levelled it all out and it looked perfectly smooth but unfortunately as it was setting a large bubble started rising up.
The result was a 3 inch bubble that he kept tripping over
Steve
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Mar 14, 2017 0:24:49 GMT 1
Very sound advice Steve, I would assume that with a 5" slab that dusty would be putting in rebar. Thats really simple to do once the ground is levelled and you just sit it on what they call 'chairs' here, small plastic raisers that put the steel in the middle of the crete. I would think 4" would be fine really Dusty unless you have a reason for wanting 5", as 4 is a driveway or parking space depth here. the beauty of levelling over the hardcore is that you can order the right amount as you know the depth (4" x width by length = what you need volumewise) and it wont all run off down into the rubble leaving you short. Defo vibe it if you can, if not do lots of spade work.
One thing i would add is that if you want it to be almost level with the ground so you can wheel bikes in you best be very very clear with your concreter if you work with one. I worked with my ex BIL who was a concreter on doing my shed in the UK and he said he understood yet when it was done I had a raised shed base with what was like a half single step. Very annoying as the shed sat on top of that. My plan was that it would be level and have a drain of stones around it so i didnt need a ramp but he just didnt get what i wanted or why, even tho he had bikes. Concreters always work to their own ideas on what works and what the rules are, doing something 'different' isnt in their mindset. Same thing happened on my driveway here, my concreter mate and I did it, and he did the levels all very pro etc. I wanted it flat for bike parking, he said it needed 'some fall for rain' to go to the drain, ok. Next thing i know its got too much angle for me, Id have like some run off over the back for plants and it to be flatter, he didnt get what i wanted until afterwards, he was just doing good drainage really. It works but its not what i really wanted. My plan from now on, 'Explain twice, pour once' LOL.
|
|
|
Post by scootjockey on Mar 14, 2017 0:45:27 GMT 1
I'm in the middle of doing my shed well I say middle I've knocked my old rotten one down layed some paving slabs and built a base frame of 4m x 3m to start with. All the sheds I'd seen were coming in at the £2-3k supplied and fitted. So I had a word with a shop fitter friend who pointed me in the right direction to get the timber. All said n done I should be looking at £1.3k by time I put power and security in it. Plus my labour ! I just wish I could get photo bucket to work I could do with some ridicule or moral support ? Good luck Dusty I'm sure you'll enjoy your new build !
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Mar 14, 2017 4:40:34 GMT 1
If you go to 'your bucket' just copy the IMG tags and paste them in here...
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Mar 14, 2017 9:07:31 GMT 1
Hi Thanks for the replies and advice fellas. My original idea was for a log cabin - 44mm interlocking timbers so very solid. It has to look right - I love my garden and spend a lot of time out there so whatever gets built down in that corner has to be aesthetically right. Trouble was the cabin came out at around 4k, that's before adding cost of base and everything else.The cabin people said do a 5" base, which is probably a bit overkill, but I always tend to over engineer things. The slab will be raised - to help against rot mainly. The worst rot in my existing shed is at the back and side against the fence where the soil levels are higher. I will build a ramp afterwards - an improvement on the step that is there at the mo. I love building projects like this, but 2 knackered discs in my lower back mean I have to be very careful what jobs I do and how long I do them for. In the past that existing shed would have been down in a day, but now I do a few hours at a time which can be frustrating - but I've learnt to pace myself to protect my back. And I have thought about building it myself - I will get some pics of the inside of the existing shed - it's a simple construction - each side consists of 2 frames bolted together. The triangular ends that form the roof are separate frames that bolt on top of the front and back frames. It would be easy enough to copy the construction, just bigger, and I will price up timber and materials. Whatever route I take I am having to weigh up cost/speed of completion/impact on my back problem. The side alleyway of my house is a fraction under a metre wide, and everything I have kept from the shed is in the alley - last year I had a cantilever roof fitted so the alleyway is dry so a good place to store everything - until you need to get anything through there ! Any materials going down the garden will mean emptying the alley !! Not ideal but it's my only option. I did think about keeping some of the existing shed and re siting it temporarily to store the stuff in, but it's more work before and after so I've binned that idea. The Malvern shed looks a good spec, and by the time I line it, it will be solid. For a 20x10 with an internal divide with single door, it comes out at just over £1800 delivered and fitted, in a day. That's 3x2 frame work and 19mm t&g timber. A forum member has a Malvern shed and has been pleased with the quality, so it's ticking the boxes with regards to cost/speed/impact on back ! More soon Dusty
|
|
|
Post by 4l04ever on Mar 14, 2017 15:55:09 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by steven on Mar 14, 2017 18:50:24 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Mar 14, 2017 21:19:42 GMT 1
Cheers for the links guys, although I 'm not sure I want to open Steven's judging by the ad description !! Had some time this afternoon, so took some Ibuprofen and cracked on; 20170314_175458 by David Miller, on Flickr I've managed to burn most of the t&g and some structural wood. I want to burn it all if I can as the local dump will charge me for timber from construction work ! Roof covering is coming off tomorrow, and then I can start dismantling the frame. Then floor comes up and we can start again from scratch !! Dusty
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Mar 14, 2017 21:22:35 GMT 1
Cheers for the links guys, although I 'm not sure I want to open Steven's judging by the ad description !! Had some time this afternoon, so took some Ibuprofen and cracked on; I've managed to burn most of the t&g and some structural wood. I want to burn it all if I can as the local dump will charge me for timber from construction work ! Roof covering is coming off tomorrow, and then I can start dismantling the frame. Then floor comes up and we can start again from scratch !! Dusty
|
|
|
Post by LC_BOTT on Mar 15, 2017 8:42:23 GMT 1
It's a pity you can't re-use the frame and just extend to the size you want. I had the same problem, and built another smaller shed for the garden stuff/bikes/chairs etc trouble was it also filled with bike stuff too, you just can't win either way
|
|
|
Post by spudmab on Mar 15, 2017 20:36:34 GMT 1
It's a pity you can't re-use the frame and just extend to the size you want. I had the same problem, and built another smaller shed for the garden stuff/bikes/chairs etc trouble was it also filled with bike stuff too, you just can't win either way I know that battle, i built my workshop 40'×16', within 3 years i extended it another 12', still not enough space, The more space the more projects and junk i seem to aquire, lol good luck with the build
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Mar 15, 2017 22:47:45 GMT 1
Hi, Thanks. It's all down now, and I managed to lift 2 floor sections before it got dark. No massive rats - yet - but evidence of spoil from tunnelling and part of the ground feels "hollow" so something is going on under foot ! Even though I have had a bonfire going for the last few days, the pile of 4x2 is quite big ! Still, I love a bit of Pyromania, so I'm quite happy burning as much as I can each day. Clearing the ground and marking out the perimeter will be my next priority. Dusty
|
|
|
Post by markhoopy on Mar 15, 2017 23:22:36 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by bigtimecharlie on Mar 16, 2017 20:22:25 GMT 1
Hi I actually really like the idea of pumped concrete. I have a very narrow back passage !! Actually it's a side passage but couldn't resist the double entendre ! The shed at the moment is sat on concrete posts - it was a quick and fairly reliable fix when I put the shed up all those years ago - new house, and a thousand jobs to do meant I didn't have the time or money for a proper base. Another issue I have is there are rats under the shed, a by product of my daughter wanting to keep a couple of chickens last year So a solid base with no voids would be better. I can see loads of burrow holes going under the shed at various points so will have to deal with them too. The concrete is about £450 but the pump which is a separate lorry is another £350, that's for 20x10 and 5" deep. All I would have to do is tamp it down as it's pumped in so it is tempting. Doing it manually may see my back give up completely !! I really need to clear the ground and mark out the perimeter to fully decide which way to go. Dusty Hi Dusty. Before you pour an entire slab, or buy an expensive shed think it over. The problem with a slab is that it will have no damp proof membrane, and in addition to that, you will probably build the shed floor over it anyways and when the water hits the shed floor as it works its way up it will just rot it out. You may be better off pouring three strips of concrete say 350/400mm wide and around 300/350 deep (keep around 150mm off the ground to avoid splashing rainwater)Then, depending how wide the shed is, you can span the three strips with timbers at 600 centres and lay a damp proof course under the timbers then build the floor over that as a base, using 18mm pressure treated particle board. Here's an example of the stuff; www.travisperkins.co.uk/Caberfloor-Chipboard-Tongue-and-Grooved-4-Sides-Moisture-Resistant-%28P5%29-18mm-x-2400mm-x-600mm/p/611016 - it lasts for ages even if left out in the elements. (I made a work bench out of this stuff and it has sat outside for three years and is still holding up.) From that base, you can build the frame from either 75x45 or 90x45 timbers at 600mm centres and clad it using 18mm construction ply. It is roughly the same price to build it this way as buying a shed half the size which will start to rot the day you put it there... If you need help, I'm here mate. Ant.
|
|