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Post by richclare on Oct 4, 2018 17:42:46 GMT 1
Hi,
I had a similar issue when I reassembled my bike. Search for '4l0 rear wheel cush drive assembly' and there are some pics to help explain.
HTH
Rich
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Post by richclare on Jul 8, 2018 16:07:26 GMT 1
if you want to restrict/stop the ingress of dirt, you can fit an elbow and a small clear tube to the 3mm drilling in the body you did, the later carbs have the breather drilled into the float bowl breather and has the clear tube attched to that Hi Muttsnuts, Many thanks for the info. Can you give me an idea where I would find an elbow to fit. Rich
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Post by richclare on Jul 7, 2018 23:38:00 GMT 1
Just a question - the air circuit is now breathing air from outside the air box. Should I take any precautions regarding dirt/dust entering the new hole (nurse)? Or is this just something I have to accept.
Cheers
Rich
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Post by richclare on Jul 7, 2018 17:44:13 GMT 1
Hi, It's been a while since I have posted anything as I had a few teething issues! After running the engine in, the dreaded mid-range flat spot became very evident. I decided to try drilling the extra feed for the air circuit, as discussed earlier. I was rather nervous to say the least. I clamped each carb and checked the vertical alignment with a set square, several times😉. Drilling was pretty easy as the alloy is soft. The only real problem was the metal melting around the drill bit, but taking it in little bits eliminated this. I then checked for burrs etc. and gave them a good clean. The old feed hole was blocked with a stainless grub screw and thread lock. I had read before of the difference it makes but riding the bike after was just incredible. It now pulls, smoothly, all the way through. Rich
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Post by richclare on Apr 22, 2018 14:12:36 GMT 1
Thanks tobyjugs and coose. I appreciate your thoughts. I thought if I took it very slowly, it would help the wandering, but the end mill is a nice idea - just need to find one! I took another photo of the hole, but close up. Thanks again for your time. Rich
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Post by richclare on Apr 22, 2018 11:59:35 GMT 1
Hi, I had a problem with a cylinder head stud not tightening, which then led to a water leak. I stripped the top end, thinking the thread or bolt had stripped, but it seemed OK. I then removed the old stud and found it had been bent to realign an otherwise wonky crankcase threaded hole! I believe it was the stud that was pulling from the crankcase, as the thread didn't look good. The attached photos (sorry about bigfoot😉) show the new 'straight' stud and how far it is out. I was going to set up a level jig on a pillar drill, redrill the hole, straight, and fit a helicoil. Would this be a good fix in people's experience? I have never used one and would appreciate any advice relating to the repair. Also I'm not sure how the threaded hole ended up 'wonky' as the thread size is original😨 Many thanks, Rich
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Post by richclare on Feb 17, 2018 18:51:18 GMT 1
Blimey Dusty, they are a stunning pair! The difference that white and black wheels have to the overall 'look' - I can't decide which I prefer! Good reason to have two Enjoy them and great work. Rich
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Post by richclare on Nov 8, 2017 22:54:12 GMT 1
Well I have finally got my bike on the road again fitted with the 31k carbs. I have also fitted a 5mm reed block spacer on the cylinder side. I can report this combo has completely removed the flat spot that the 1980 models are plagued with. It pulls smoothly all the way through that dreaded 4-5000 rev range and has made the bike much better to ride in traffic and around town. My advice for anyone trying to improve the 4lo-00 carbs is to ditch them and fit 31k ones. You will be pleased you did. That's good to hear...... and thanks for reporting back. I'm still running my motor in and no obvious carb issues at the moment. I'm sure they will come! Enjoy your bike. Cheers Rich
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Post by richclare on Nov 5, 2017 20:52:07 GMT 1
The tighter coils should go to the top. it's all to do with unsprung weight Do you think the forks would work differently if inverted?
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Post by richclare on Nov 5, 2017 20:20:37 GMT 1
The copper washer is correct the springs look like progressive maybe Hagon I can’t remember which way up they go they are longer than 296mm Hi Stusco, Thanks for that. My measuring skills are rubbish and should read 495/496mm. I thought the springs were standard (they look the same as the photo in Haynes manual). Rich
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Post by richclare on Nov 5, 2017 20:15:03 GMT 1
I think you might have measured the wrong length fork springs, they certainly look bigger than 300mm Click this LINK
I do not have any 4LO forks but there are some references made to them in this link Hi tobyjugs, You would never believe I use a tape measure everyday The measurements should be 495 and 496mm! Thanks for the link as well. Rich
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Post by richclare on Nov 5, 2017 17:27:26 GMT 1
+1 for genuine. The peace of mind you are putting something in that is made well. I reckon the difference doesn't come down to much either!
Rich
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Post by richclare on Nov 5, 2017 15:33:30 GMT 1
Hi chaps, I decided to dismantle the fork legs completely. All the components seem in good condition, but I have 3 questions: 1. The springs were upside down, with the tightly wound section at the bottom - would this adversely affect the action? 2. The spring length is 295 and 296mm - is it worth replacing them? Just for info - I am a skinny rake at 70kg, so I'm not sure if I need 'harder' springs, if I replace them. Recommendations would be welcome. 3. I found a copper washer on the Allen bolt which holds the stanchion to the leg. It makes sense there is one, but the manual doesn't show it! Can someone confirm this is correct? Many thanks Rich
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Post by richclare on Nov 1, 2017 21:53:57 GMT 1
I think the oil might be a bit too thick or you might have too much in the legs. What oil are you using? have you got any preloading on the fork springs? If it's too much oil i would start by putting a tie wrap around the chrome part of the fork leg and do some braking tests. The fork dust cover should push the tie wrap up the leg. Do the braking a couple of times so you get used to making the same braking procedure. Measure the distance of the tie wrap to the bottom of the lower yoke. write the distance down. Then care fully open up your forks and remove a small amount of oil using a piece of pipe connected to a syringe. Remove equal amounts from both forks and note the amount. Do your braking procedure and measure the new distance of the tie wrap. Continue this process until your happy with the feeling. If it is still too harsh and the tie wrap is very close to the lower yoke i think you should use a lower viscosity (thinner) oil. Start with the manufactures reccommended amount and gradually build the amount up until happy, always noting all the changes. I would like to point out i am not a suspension expert and someone else might have a better suggestion Hi tobyjugs, Thank you for your detailed reponse. You may not be a suspension expert, but that seems pretty logical advice. To be honest, I haven't done anything with the forks, up until now. They seemed in good working order, so I left them alone (that'll teach me!). So I'm not sure what oil or liquid is inside! I will try and do the tests this weekend and will let you know the results. Thanks again. Rich
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Post by richclare on Nov 1, 2017 20:35:04 GMT 1
Hi richclare i find you description difficult to understand. Is it a soft springy feeling or a harsh knocking feeling? It is more of a hard feeling, although when I pump the forks they seem easy (very little sprung resistance). When I'm riding and look at the fork it doesn't seem to be absorbing the bumps, more following the surface . To me it doesn't make a lot of sense. I would expect the springs to be too hard. Rich
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Post by richclare on Nov 1, 2017 18:54:28 GMT 1
Front forks Ain't great.. but they should work passably at least. Reads like yours are not working. Possible reason being little to No oil in there, as a first guess. Brakes being on or off shouldn't have effect on fork damping action.. at least when bouncing the bike when stationary. Thanks Bare, I will check and replace the oil as it may not have been replaced - ever! Cheers Rich
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Post by richclare on Nov 1, 2017 17:15:07 GMT 1
Good evenin',
I have nearly covered the first 100 miles of running-in my 350 4l0. I'm having a lot of fun and lots of ☺☺☺☺. Having not ridden for nearly 20 years I'm not sure if the front suspension was this bad!? Going over a bumpy surface feels a little like holding on to a pneumatic hammer😨. Are there any simple tests to ascertain if the problem lies with the springs, oil or stanchions? With the front brake on they move freely up and down. Any ideas or advice would be gratefully received.
Cheers Rich
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Post by richclare on Oct 29, 2017 15:29:41 GMT 1
Hi there,
I've just finished restoring my 350LC and in the process of running the engine in. Are there any fellow riders in my neck of the woods? I live south of Avignon 84000.....
Cheers
Rich
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Post by richclare on Oct 28, 2017 16:24:19 GMT 1
Fitted some indicators - found them courtesy of Dusty, thanks☺. Made a small bracket to mount the rear pair (which needs painting). Cheers Rich
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Post by richclare on Oct 20, 2017 13:49:42 GMT 1
Received my carb repair kit from Norbo. The new gaskets are fitted and no leaks☺. I presume the old gaskets, which I bought from ebay, were poor quality. I did put a thin smear of grease on the gasket too, before fitting.
Rich
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Post by richclare on Oct 15, 2017 21:35:36 GMT 1
You can rub a thin smear of grease onto the gaskets to make them less porous. Let us all know how you get on. Thanks for the tip. I will post the result - fingers crossed. Rich
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Post by richclare on Oct 15, 2017 15:59:24 GMT 1
It's been many years since I've stripped carbs, never heard of soaking a new gasket in petrol before, what's the theory behind that then? It was mentioned earlier in this thread.... I assume it helps to swell the gasket first? Rich
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Post by richclare on Oct 15, 2017 14:21:44 GMT 1
Just a question to add to this link.....
I have a similar problem with the float bowl gaskets. I've changed them once and they leak, actually it's more like seeping, leaving a film of fuel on the float bowl side. I think it's because they were cheap so I have ordered some new ones from Norbo. I wanted to know if anything has to be done before fitting them. I know someone said to soak them in fuel overnight before fitting? Any other tips would be appreciated.
Cheers
Rich
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Post by richclare on Oct 9, 2017 6:52:54 GMT 1
Hi Greg,
I have exactly the same problem after my rebuild. The carb gaskets are new and seem to leak like a sieve! The old gaskets (I think were original) did a much better job of holding the fuel in. I am going to buy some replacements.
Rich
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Post by richclare on Oct 9, 2017 6:38:27 GMT 1
Hi Mark,
From what I can see it looks mightily impressive. Meticulous detailing as well. Pipes look great in black and silver too - you should go in to business with Dusty! Will be interesting to see how she rides with the changes you have made; weight, power, balance etc. It's a shame I live too far away to she her in the flesh, or is it metal!?
Look forward to the final photos. Enjoy the show.
Rich
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Post by richclare on Oct 7, 2017 18:45:16 GMT 1
I can understand the branding from a promotional point of view. Perhaps a sticker? That way people have a choice.
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Post by richclare on Oct 4, 2017 15:53:37 GMT 1
Just wanted to show people what steel pipes look like if you keep putting oil on them (my favourite colour) I didn't know that happened. Does the oil just burn into the steel and protect it? Bit like a bbq😀. Rich
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Post by richclare on Oct 3, 2017 11:25:35 GMT 1
LOL. I took my English 'O' level three times - E, E and a U. You must be my lad's English teacher then LOL
Cheeky!..... but if I was, I would have a cool bike😉.
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Post by richclare on Oct 1, 2017 19:28:18 GMT 1
Thanks Hudtm 60 and rd350rob, Richclare, I've never thought of writing a book - it's food for thought. I only got a "D" in English O level LOL. I took my English 'O' level three times - E, E and a U.
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Post by richclare on Sept 30, 2017 8:32:26 GMT 1
Hi Mark,
I'm sure you have other things to think about at the moment, like getting aboard an RDT☺. Had you ever considered writing a book after the project is finished? I imagine you have a load more photos and I for one would be interested. It's also a part of history! Looking forward to the 'reveal' and some sound clips.
Cheers
Rich
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