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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 5, 2016 13:36:44 GMT 1
Wanted to do a couple of track days this year but seemed to have missed the best time of the year. so will try it next year. I have never been on a track before and i a little worried that i will get carried away and bin it. I will strip the lights, clocks etc off as they are to expensive to replace. Has anyone got any tips and ideas for a rev counter and temperature meter that could be used and is cheap. Cheers in advance Tobyjugs
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Post by huggy76 on Oct 7, 2016 21:01:56 GMT 1
I was hoping some people might have some advise for this as I have also considered putting a 350YPVS on the track for some cheap fun.
I know the exhausts on my spare bike would not be any good for the track as they are micron GP pipes so limited ground clearance.
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Post by markhoopy on Oct 7, 2016 21:31:50 GMT 1
Why not book yourself on one of the two stroke track days next year? It wouldn't take too many laps for you to see for yourself what modifications you/your bike/your nipsy needed to add to the fun and excitement. You would also meet a bunch of great like-minded lads who no doubt would be able to offer great advice too.
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Post by rostrumorhospital on Oct 7, 2016 22:16:31 GMT 1
If its a standard bike i would say brakes are high up on the list, blue spot calipers / adaptor plates and braded lines, would be a good upgrade for not silly money not forgetting a good set of pads, I always liked the EBC HH.
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Post by 4l04ever on Oct 7, 2016 22:22:39 GMT 1
Good tyres would be good too :-)
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Post by steve h on Oct 7, 2016 22:33:39 GMT 1
May be of use to you. www.tz350.net/lcracer_article.htmAnd don't forget the most essential part......................switching off the part of the brain that deals with self preservation
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Post by marsbar350 on Oct 7, 2016 22:40:20 GMT 1
May be of use to you. www.tz350.net/lcracer_article.htmAnd don't forget the most essential part......................switching off the part of the brain that deals with self preservation good advice steve wheres me honey
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Post by steve h on Oct 8, 2016 1:37:35 GMT 1
Have a word with our f**king bees, Mars
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 8, 2016 14:18:31 GMT 1
Thanks i have been given advice to to use a unit such as a koso, which is sound advice but also expensive. Kees a teenager in my village has got a couple of broken derby clocks and he suggested to see if i can lash one of those together. I have also been thinking about trying to source an otter switch which i can screw into the head instead of the normal temperature sensor. Then if it gets to the temperature the otter switch is set at, it can switch a warning lamp on.
I have bought some new tyres at the beginning of this year.
The brakes on this bike work very good. It does seem to be standard but have never really checked.
I took the back shock off the bike and put an original yamaha in its place and it was crap. This was about the same time i joined this forum then learned what i took of is a good shock from Wilbers
I have just got some spares to overhaul the shocks as there is a little play in them
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 16, 2016 13:09:46 GMT 1
Can anyone tell me what is standard front and back sprocket sizes for a 350 lc please
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Post by markhoopy on Oct 16, 2016 13:32:33 GMT 1
Can anyone tell me what is standard front and back sprocket sizes for a 350 lc please 16/39
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Post by Tobyjugs on Oct 16, 2016 15:05:34 GMT 1
Thanks for that Mark
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 21, 2016 1:16:56 GMT 1
Today i thought i would strip the forks down, clean them and re-bush them. I rolled the stanchions over a flat surface and found that they were very slightly bent. Both had a deflection of 0.14 mm. This is not much, but i do not know how significant this is. Anyone got any opinion on this? The forks i stripped down were waisted YPVS forks. I have been toying with fitting Straight YPVS forks which i was considering even more so until i pulled the spring out and found it to be much shorter. I then opened up another pair of waisted forks, the stanchions are straight but the spring assembly was different to the first set i stripped. below are some pictures of the different fork assembly's First set opened The second longer set is a longer fork with a shorter spring? The third set same as first.(almost) I measured the spring lengths and they can be seen in this photo. I only have a manual for the 4LO RD and not the YPVS so could anyone give me some advice on the spring lengths? I guess the forks i took off the bike are built with special springs and spacer. I have never thought the forks were bad but they do dive hard when you brake hard. This makes me think the other two must be even worse. I have not completely dismantled the long black forks but does anyone know if it is possible to retro fit the stanchions into the silver bottoms and then use the silver springs with another spacer?
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Post by jon on Nov 21, 2016 8:59:51 GMT 1
At a guess I'd say left to right are:
OEM F2 etc OEM 31k? Hagon for F2
I thought the 31k forks were shorter than F2 so the forks with the Hagen springs must of had some preload.
Jon
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Post by 4l04ever on Nov 21, 2016 9:13:10 GMT 1
4L0 fork spring free length is 497.8mm 31K (LC2) fork spring free length is 506.2mm HTH OEB
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Post by 4l04ever on Nov 21, 2016 9:18:38 GMT 1
I would use the 31k (LC2) fork to keep the proportions correct. Look into using the fork cartridge emulators - Cheap copies available for XS650.... I think the website is XS650.de I always check my forks by fixing the lower and rotating the upper and measuring the run-out (wobble at the top). Bigger discs on bike, plus better calipers and adapters. Bendix Pads.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 21, 2016 9:45:51 GMT 1
At a guess I'd say left to right are: OEM F2 etc OEM 31k? Hagon for F2 I thought the 31k forks were shorter than F2 so the forks with the Hagen springs must of had some preload. Jon I think the spacers in the first picture are for preload they were under a lot of tension compared to the other two. The softest action came from the long black pair
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Post by wallcraft on Nov 21, 2016 9:58:33 GMT 1
Hi Tony, I also have a waisted pair that I stripped for refurb. Just measured the standard springs at 506mm. The other ones you pulled from the 2nd waisted pair are Hagon progressive springs, I would give them a go, the down side will that will be harsh every were because of the heavy preload the give but probably not such a problem on a nice smooth track. On my waisted ones at the bottom of the stanchion there is a fairly large bleed hole with a sort of check valve inside which was open when I pulled them apart, the other stanchion the hole was shut and won't budge, are yours the same? Mark.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 21, 2016 10:12:52 GMT 1
I would use the 31k (LC2) fork to keep the proportions correct. Look into using the fork cartridge emulators - Cheap copies available for XS650.... I think the website is XS650.de I always check my forks by fixing the lower and rotating the upper and measuring the run-out (wobble at the top). Bigger discs on bike, plus better calipers and adapters. Bendix Pads. Hi Rob trying to do it on a budget with what I have. The main part of the legs are straight. The deflection is in the waisted area. I also have the top yoke for the long forks but both handle bars are bent. I've got some 22mm hydraulic pipe to repair them. The thought behind the long forks is that you can slide them up and down in the yokes with the waisted forks you don't have much adjustment. The brakes work good, I have been looking for a 250 master cylinder but now I have a master cylinder from a Gilera 50 cc to try but first the forks
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 21, 2016 10:18:44 GMT 1
I have read on this forum about people complaining about the forks bottoming out I can't understand how preloading the forks can help this
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 21, 2016 10:23:47 GMT 1
Hi Tony, I also have a waisted pair that I stripped for refurb. Just measured the standard springs at 506mm. The other ones you pulled from the 2nd waisted pair are Hagon progressive springs, I would give them a go, the down side will that will be harsh every were because of the heavy preload the give but probably not such a problem on a nice smooth track. On my waisted ones at the bottom of the stanchion there is a fairly large bleed hole with a sort of check valve inside which was open when I pulled them apart, the other stanchion the hole was shut and won't budge, are yours the same? Mark. Hi Mark I will take a look tonight for you.
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Post by 4l04ever on Nov 21, 2016 14:49:37 GMT 1
I think it was Team Jacamo that complained about bottoming out of forks.... :-)
I am running uprated fork springs and 15W oil in 31 K forks. About 3mm through the top yoke. 16mm spacer on the top of the springs and using this setup on track. I am 105Kg now and they never get near bottoming out.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 21, 2016 17:54:11 GMT 1
I think it was Team Jacamo that complained about bottoming out of forks.... :-) I am running uprated fork springs and 15W oil in 31 K forks. About 3mm through the top yoke. 16mm spacer on the top of the springs and using this setup on track. I am 105Kg now and they never get near bottoming out. That sounds very simular to the forks i have taken off the bike. The spacer which is 17mm and the long progressive springs. Bare seems to like ATF oil so i will try that first as i have plenty lying around. Can anyone tell me what the standard oil level measurement is or recommend one for the waisted forks?
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Post by dave1w on Nov 21, 2016 19:57:28 GMT 1
I found on my LC racer with braided hoses, EBC green pads and (I think) an RGV 250 master cylinder and reservoir, it would stop amazing well. Standard caliper and maybe the discs were drilled. Can't advise you in the PC2 forks as I only did a few laps on the one I set up, that had Hagen springs, and I seem to remember heavier oil. You can cut a heap of weight of it if it's just for the track
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 21, 2016 21:54:39 GMT 1
I found on my LC racer with braided hoses, EBC green pads and (I think) an RGV 250 master cylinder and reservoir, it would stop amazing well. Standard caliper and maybe the discs were drilled. Can't advise you in the PC2 forks as I only did a few laps on the one I set up, that had Hagen springs, and I seem to remember heavier oil. You can cut a heap of weight of it if it's just for the track Yes my discs are drilled and I find it good as it is but if I can improve on I will try. Thanks for the advice.
Hi Mark this is what I found tonight. On the large stanchion there is an inner steel bush with a hole drilled in it which is loose and can revolve. There is also a hole in the outer station at the same height. you can turn the inner bush and line the two holes up.
In this picture the bush is rotated and the oil has travel between the thin space between the two tubes before and after the large holes.
In this picture I have rotated the holes so they line up I put a red background in the tube so you can see the holes are open.
Here is two pictures of the damping rod this also has a similar construction with an inner and outer tube but this time they are both fixed and you can't rotate the inner bush.
Now I am wondering if the bush in the main stanchion should be fixed? My thinking is, if they can turn they can short circuit the fluid. I hope someone comes along who knows whats what about these forks.
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Post by wallcraft on Nov 22, 2016 0:17:50 GMT 1
Cheers Tony, I did a bit of research on these valves and from what I could understand was when the forks are compressed the fluid forces the holes open to flood the upper stanchion, then as the fork rebounds the force of the fluid closes the holes hence slowing the rebound down. So no they should not be fixed yours are doing what they should. So my stanchions are shot with check valves seized solid. Dam more ££
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 22, 2016 5:14:06 GMT 1
Cheers Tony, I did a bit of research on these valves and from what I could understand was when the forks are compressed the fluid forces the holes open to flood the upper stanchion, then as the fork rebounds the force of the fluid closes the holes hence slowing the rebound down. So no they should not be fixed yours are doing what they should. So my stanchions are shot with check valves seized solid. Dam more ££ Hi Mark the construction looks very simple have you tried to free it up with a external circlip pliers or something similar
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Post by wallcraft on Nov 22, 2016 8:44:52 GMT 1
Yep tried that , would'nt budge so got the dremell out and that was that, went to far and took the bottom that's rolled under completely off then it slackened off and I managed to take the collar out along with a smaller plastic collar and spacer behind it. To much damage done now! Boll**ks Live and learn!
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Post by LC_BOTT on Nov 22, 2016 9:30:34 GMT 1
If you have all those fork sets, have you thought about the Triumph caliper upgrade? (for the F2 forks) you should still be able to get a set fairly cheap.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 22, 2016 17:08:33 GMT 1
If you have all those fork sets, have you thought about the Triumph caliper upgrade? (for the F2 forks) you should still be able to get a set fairly cheap. I have thought about it and looked a few times (half hearted) but they are not so easy to find here in Holland
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