Tips and advice for putting an rd on the track

[Tobyjugs]

Thanks to everyone for their input
Forks are together, it's dry but cold so tonight I will be testing waisted forks with progressive springs without spacers then with spacers different oil height with 7 psi air pressure

[Tobyjugs]

Just finnished faffing around with my forks. I have a big smile and very cold Knees

I have realised that what i thought was ok, is actually a bit harsh. The original set up was the progressive springs with the 17 mm spacer and about 260 ml oil.
I now have only the progressive springs in with about 250 ml of atf oil and it feels very nice not too hard and not too springy.
When i go to the track i will put the spacers in and add a little more oil.
I ended up using the other set of waisted forks because even after putting new bushes in there was an awful lot of play between the stanchion and the fork leg, i guess the inside of the aluminium legs wear out.

When i first got the bike the original shock was a wilbers i took it off as i thought that an oem shock would be better. I turned it straight into a pogo stick. Didnt take long to put the wilbers shock back, and i have since learned through this forum a wilbers shock is a quality shock.

I am now thinking it was originally set up good and me messing around with it might make it worse, but on a positive note i have learnt a little bit more about these bikes and i have probably upset half the village with that magical song played by the TSA pipes ha ha

[Tobyjugs]

Hi Gents, question time again!
I have a couple of back wheels, which i have been swapping as the old tyre wears out. I have a set of new tyres and was wondering which type of wheel to put them on. Is there is much difference when used hard between the 350 back wheel and the 250 back wheel?
I have more different toothed sprockets for the 250 wheels compared to the 350 wheels.
Unless other wise advised i think i will use the two fifty wheels.

[midlifecrisisrd]

250 wheel should be lighter and think that's what the racers used

Steve

[Tobyjugs]

Thanks Steve i shall try to weigh them.

[Tobyjugs]

Still haven't weighed the wheels yet but i will and shall post the difference for everybody to see.

Last week end i changed the 350 master cylinder front brake for an old fifty cc Gilera master cylinder, the brake went from rock hard with little movement (4LO) to spongy with lots of play (Gilera). I thought "oh this is crap" Any way had to use the bike this week for work and i was surprised how well it worked for that soft feel. Originally i wanted to try a two fifty lc master cylinder as bare highly recommends it. I think i have an szr master cylinder some where, maybe this will be that little bit better more harder and still with some feel. 
Comments on this topic much appreciated.

Still struggling to get rid of that famous mid range stutter. Which until now was never a problem. The same engine with standard pipes and standard air filter was smooth and nice, now i have the TSA's fitted i have a stutter i cant dial out. Changing the combination of needle heights, pilot jets and screwing the air screws in and out only moves the stutter up or down the rev range slightly. Tomorrow i will remove the filter from the air box and see if this helps. I did notice when i plugged my ignitech in the bike was much more spritely of the mark and it seem to rev out quicker but the stutter remained.

[bare]

One can buy a Lookalike NEW 1/2" bore MC from MikesSX.com Likely Norbo has such as well. Again; Something you won't regret fitting.

Ypvs Forks have Too soft springs .. period. They Must have higher rate springs fitted if you wanna go faster.
Adding preload merely keeps the suspension off the bump stops, doing dick for handling improvement
I wouldn't be buying progressive springs either, despite Brochure Babbles.. the wrong rate at precisely the wrong time
Easy way to increase spring Rate is to cut a few coils (4 to 6 full coils) off the springs you currently own.
Then fit bits of PVC pie as compensation spacers.
Suggest trying MOBIL 1 atf as fork oil.
It produces a different result/feel that vanilla ATF
Air pressure on our old forks is sketchy. Unless you bothered to double up on the fork seals... as in it always bleeds off.. when you need its' effects most.
IMO better to do an ersatz air pressure setup by increasing the oil/reducing the volume of trapped air.
Stutter IS annoying.. that said. Why is it a concern on a Race Bike.
IF not constantly twisting well up in the rpm/power band (well above the stutter band) you are touring.. not racing :-)

Good luck.

[midlifecrisisrd]

Pattern 1/2 master from norbo is 39 quid

Steve

[Tobyjugs]

Thanks for the advice bare, your right about the stutter. i'm just a bit a bit fussy and want it running smoothly. Still got some other things to try for the stutter, removing the air filter didn't help.
Thanks for the tip about the pattern master cylinders.

[Tobyjugs]

Been looking at the bike tonight and when you remove the headlamp and indicators etc there is a large mess which is the wiring loom. Was wondering about removing it all.

My next question is can i use the Flywheel/magneto, the CDI unit, ignition coils and the engine kill switch and junk the rest without damaging anything?  I don't have any power valves or electronic ignition for this bike and all lighting will be removed.

Electrics are not my strong point but there must be a few people that can guide me with this task

[Tobyjugs]

I forgot to mention i changed the scooter master cylinder for the SZR master cylinder. This works a treat and powerfull enough to lock the front wheel up (all to easy) with standard disc's and calipers. I will keep the SZR master cylinder on the bike even though i like the sensitivity and feel of the scooter master cylinder best.

[Tobyjugs]

I have now stripped the bike down to the bare minimal and connected up the ignition system. The bike has no battery and a very small loom with an extra earth wire going from the engine block to the chassis.
Here is a quick drawing for you to see what I have done.

I was not sure about the 3 white wires that comes out the generator so I just blanked them off there was a suggestion that these should be earthed  to stop the coils from burning out. I was not sure about this advice as I think the wires give an ac power form so when they earth in my way of thinking it would keep going from plus to minus and that don't make sense to me.

I don't know much about electrics so if I am talking rubbish feel free to correct me and explain why.

The bike now starts and runs ok and I can stop it on the kill switch. It has probably run for about half an hour like this and so far all seems to be good. I have checked it a couple of times for hot or melting wires. (still a little worried about what I have done as I do not understand the generator system fully)

I have managed to find a second hand Koso meter. This meter is battery powered and only measures rpm and temperature. It is not very good as the screen disappears after a short time. I noticed if I connected it up to a bike battery the meter stays on. I think I will try to use an old telephone battery if this works I can tape it down somewhere on the bike.

[Tobyjugs]

So can anybody tell me if I have done the right thing with the electrics

[muttsnuts]

that will be fine. If you want to eliminate the geenrator coils you could simply remove them from the stator, that way you will have less magnectic forces playing on the flywheel and less to worry about, if your not sure about having a go at stripping them off the good stator, send me a PM and I'll send you an old knackered stator that you can practice on first on how to remove them

HTH

[Tobyjugs]

Thanks mutts that's very generous of you but I will use this generator in its normal capacity later on
Thanks for the confidence boost

[dpilko]

Oct 5, 2016 13:36:44 GMT 1 Tobyjugs said:

Wanted to do a couple of track days this year but seemed to have missed the best time of the year. so will try it next year.
I have never been on a track before and i a little worried that i will get carried away and bin it. I will strip the lights, clocks etc off as they are to expensive to replace. Has anyone got any tips and ideas for a rev counter and temperature meter that could be used and is cheap.
Cheers in advance Tobyjugs

I agree with the guy who said go with a 2 stoke only track day. Done em for years with a 170 bhp gixxer k6 and you dont want to be on track with bikes that fast. Even Cadwell which is fairly tight the speed differential is way too great. Lads with supermotos, LC's and 250 strokers at Cadwell were a good 80-
90 mph down on the start finish straight.

Also, take it easy on your first few sessions, it's easy to get caught up with it all and bin it on your first session, seen it happen so many times and nearly did it myself!

[Tobyjugs]

Jan 29, 2017 16:12:17 GMT 1 dpilko said:

Oct 5, 2016 13:36:44 GMT 1 Tobyjugs said:

Wanted to do a couple of track days this year but seemed to have missed the best time of the year. so will try it next year.
I have never been on a track before and i a little worried that i will get carried away and bin it. I will strip the lights, clocks etc off as they are to expensive to replace. Has anyone got any tips and ideas for a rev counter and temperature meter that could be used and is cheap.
Cheers in advance Tobyjugs

I agree with the guy who said go with a 2 stoke only track day. Done em for years with a 170 bhp gixxer k6 and you dont want to be on track with bikes that fast. Even Cadwell which is fairly tight the speed differential is way too great. Lads with supermotos, LC's and 250 strokers at Cadwell were a good 80-
90 mph down on the start finish straight.

Also, take it easy on your first few sessions, it's easy to get caught up with it all and bin it on your first session, seen it happen so many times and nearly did it myself!

Thanks dpilko i have been warned about this from an ex racer. I even asked the trackday organizers about this and they told me that i would be put in the correct group for speed and ability

[Tobyjugs]

I have had a cooling issue with one of my bikes so I nicked the large radiator from the other bike. Trouble is I am now a bit worried about this one as it always ran warmer than the ypvs engine.
So I made some modifications to try and get some more cooling.


First I had a look around to see what I could use.



Cut these to size and fitted them to the radiator.

Then offered this up and pop riveted it in place.

I think I should just explain I am a bit of a hoarder and find it difficult to throw something away just in case I can use it for something.

This is very true of the cooling fins. They come from a broken radiator cowling.

I thought I should explain that before one of are resident YPVS fans thinks I have done something unholy to a perfectly good part Ha Ha

This will be put on the dyno bank shortly to check the carbouration and I will also check to see if this mod does it's job.

Its rough and ready but if it works it will be ok for my track days

[steelerd]

Heidenou race tyres on mine weren't to bad to be honest

bit flighty over the crests at oulton park ha great to see another one on the track,

really great to buzz a 600 on the corners

[Tobyjugs]

I dont think i will be buzzing any 600's on the corners ha ha. I will shortly be driving down to Cartegena in Spain and will buzzing around the track for three days if i don't break myself or the bike.

I'm very excited and nervous about it. Most of the people i will be with will be using it for training for this seasons ONK races in Holland.

A friend who was once a Dutch champion advised me not to do it as it is a large track he almost said the same as Dpilko said in this thread, but the organisers told me not to worry about it.
Any way in for a penny in for a pound. Plus i get to have a proper holiday which is something i don't do all that often.

So to sum it up drive to Spain in a Series 2 Land Rover. Then try not to blow up a geriatric motorcycle whilst imagining i'm GP rider. Yeah i must be mad

[lrcarl]

Sounds like fun to me mate
Have a great time
Carl

[budgie]

Feb 7, 2017 19:53:48 GMT 1 Tobyjugs said:

So to sum it up drive to Spain in a Series 2 Land Rover. Then try not to blow up a geriatric motorcycle whilst imagining i'm GP rider. Yeah i must be mad

Maybe your mad..... but that still does not stop me being a tiny bit jealous...! Enjoy ....but most of all have fun.!

[steve h]

Have a good time...sounds brilliant!

[Tobyjugs]

Thanks for the comments chaps

[Tobyjugs]

Nov 25, 2016 14:30:19 GMT 1 midlifecrisisrd said:

250 wheel should be lighter and think that's what the racers used

Steve

Hi Steve the difference between the back wheels was about 100 grams, but the 350 tyre was bald and the 250 tyre was new.

350 Wheel = 15.5 kg
250 wheel = 15.4 kg

Just a thought which is correct tire or tyre???

[midlifecrisisrd]

Feb 8, 2017 21:16:04 GMT 1 Tobyjugs said:

Nov 25, 2016 14:30:19 GMT 1 midlifecrisisrd said:

250 wheel should be lighter and think that's what the racers used

Steve

Hi Steve the difference between the back wheels was about 100 grams, but the 350 tyre was bald and the 250 tyre was new.

350 Wheel = 15.5 kg
250 wheel = 15.4 kg

Just a thought which is correct tire or tyre???

Its tyre over here

Did the 350 wheel have the cush drive and sprocket carrier fitted

Steve

[Tobyjugs]

Yes both were complete. They feel heavy but was surprised to see 15+ kilo's

[midlifecrisisrd]

Not a lot in it then

Both could anchor a ship

Steve

[Tobyjugs]

That's true

[steelerd]

One advantage of a bigger track plenty of room for peeps to pass you look forward to seeing pics mate ☺ 👌