|
Post by JonW on Apr 23, 2024 5:52:52 GMT 1
Ahha! perfect.
Yes I remember the Rizomas.
I reckon LED inds might be ok, its not like its something structural, but does depend on the person doing the testing in Vic.
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 23, 2024 3:05:04 GMT 1
Good to see you posting Rob. Have you sorted that rear mudguard we spoke about?
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 22, 2024 14:37:07 GMT 1
Nope But you find another right 🤣 Steve The most exciting thing (from a dull man point of view) is that one of the lefts is one of the hard to find pre-cutout types. I might ebay it and retire..... If you do, that'll give you more time to search for the other left...
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 22, 2024 13:51:05 GMT 1
The ally one is a copy of the Pingel I guess? I wonder how different a real Pingel would be.
Urbantagleweed is the Project Farm of the forum! "We're gonna test that!" (for those who know the youtube channel)
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 22, 2024 13:42:27 GMT 1
Dusty I think Alex's speedo drive has a slot in it? DL'd the pic and adjusted the colours... yep there is a slot... I would say the fork leg and the speedo drive are not from the same bike
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 22, 2024 1:48:43 GMT 1
Ahh ok, so this allows you to get more tension on the spring. Could you also have shimmed behind the spring or used a longer/stronger one instead?
I guess this part of the kicker isnt hardened, Ive been told the other part is but had no issues drilling when I needed to so not sure on that one.
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 22, 2024 1:45:05 GMT 1
Always satisfying to have the speedo drive cleaned up, the grease in these is usually horrible and old.
Not sure how the seal fixes the issue with the drive locator, so interested to see when it arrives.
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 22, 2024 1:29:51 GMT 1
We only just talked about this recently, so worth a search, but yeah heat and the specialist tools (cheap enough these days on ebay/amazon etc) really help with this one.
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 20, 2024 13:54:10 GMT 1
I've always sprayed through all the ports with carb cleaner or if you have panted them white spirit Then take a kit of white kitchen roll, spray wd40 on it and wipe the bore If there is any discolouration on the towel get a new piece, wd40 again and keep wiping till it is clean The cross hatching holds onto grime Steve I use a parts washer and one of those washing up brushes thats like a mini bog brush... but, i appreciate people will say that we dont all have a pasts washer... or perhaps even an ice cream tub and a litre of kerosine... lol
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 20, 2024 13:52:02 GMT 1
Health and safety has gone mad 🤣🤣🤣 I'll not mention the black passivate I have in the garage that contains hydrofluoric acid Straight through the skin and dissolves you bones 😳 Mistake I just made to double check that fact was googling it, hope nobody linked to me dissapears 😬 Steve Ive met a bunch of people who must have painted it on their spines recently...
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 20, 2024 13:50:33 GMT 1
"pics or it didnt happen..."
Er... lol
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 20, 2024 9:41:30 GMT 1
Burnt toast is a killer Jon Google "Acrylamide" ☠️ 😁 In my time on this planet Ive learnt that its often best to not google stuff like this...
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 20, 2024 9:09:49 GMT 1
i burnt my toast this morning... reminded me of this thread... didnt want to eat it... had to make new lol
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 20, 2024 0:37:51 GMT 1
You can wash engine parts under a tap, workshops often do that after using a parts washer to loosen the much/dirt/swarf etc. The final rinse under pressure can help remove any residue.
Its fine so long as you dry them after fully and then do something to protect them.
The places Ive visited / worked in used an airline / compressor to blow the water off fully right after them getting wet.
Most reborers will advise you to fully clean the cyls when they give them back to you. I think its partly cos they are protecting themselves of course.
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 19, 2024 0:05:56 GMT 1
It should be possible to get the oil light to work Maybe not an f2 sensor as it does the light up then fade out as a test The problem with the LC/LC2 oil light may be that its a constant 12v that the earth is switched via the oil switch or tested through the neutral switch You can use a small relay to isolate the original signal and change it to a "normal" switched 12v signal Steve Good thoughts. Would be nice to see someone build that and have it working.
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 19, 2024 0:02:26 GMT 1
Norbo has Genuine Yamaha side stands at £150 so personally I would be starting there. Higgspeeds sidestands are advertised to fit 250/350LC's the ones listed on Norbos site are for the YPVS models. OEB Nigel, Norbo just did an update and has OEM LC stands listed, £395.
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 18, 2024 7:22:08 GMT 1
i assume youre fitting these on an LC?
I have them on a ypvs, using the ypvs cable... so not helpful. If i was using them on an LC Id expect the LC cable to work.. and If use an OEM, cos of the oil pump cable issues.
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 18, 2024 0:43:40 GMT 1
OOops. Ahh well.
Dont forget to get the triple welded up, it needs repairing.
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 18, 2024 0:39:29 GMT 1
wow, very sad.
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 17, 2024 14:38:02 GMT 1
honestly its not that hard. Look at the wiring diagram for the bike and the clocks and get a notepad handy and start jotting down the wire colours and what should connect to what as you trace the diagrams.
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 17, 2024 0:11:37 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 16, 2024 9:24:54 GMT 1
Just watched the Shed and Buried Classic Cars ep with the 1500. Looked an less than idea set of cuts for the repair to the overider/bumper+bonnet mount but most Spits would have had worse to get through MOTs I guess and that bonnet was a horrid fit, but otherwise it was good looking car once resprayed. 69k miles was original... er, ok... lol
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 16, 2024 9:05:37 GMT 1
people love to overpay for a project... FOMO, 'knowing better' etc etc
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 15, 2024 14:48:57 GMT 1
well done. Its a great feeling.
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 15, 2024 14:25:34 GMT 1
you can shim it and try that, nothing to lose etc.
IME its usually its the shaft and the kicker that have worn oval so the spring/ball isnt working as designed.
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 15, 2024 13:42:15 GMT 1
looks a great project to me.
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 15, 2024 7:53:38 GMT 1
yes someone did quite recently i think, might be on here?
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 15, 2024 7:18:48 GMT 1
Would you want to risk going Chinese though on such an important part? Surely the 'extra flow' units are all Chinese these days?
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 15, 2024 1:32:35 GMT 1
plenty of chat about these over the years. not all have hardened shafts. Have a look in the search as you should be able to find those discussions plus those about bigger rads and impellers together etc.
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 15, 2024 0:29:50 GMT 1
|
|