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Post by looey on Apr 21, 2014 9:37:20 GMT 1
I'm not going to make it for the Halfway House, only just woke up Might try and find anyone down Southend later.
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Post by looey on Apr 20, 2014 17:46:42 GMT 1
Wicked, them leathers will slow it down some though
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Post by looey on Apr 20, 2014 17:37:07 GMT 1
Yeah that's what I did as well but over time it washed it off. Only needed one flush and clean after that and has stayed perfect in there ever since . Yours doesn't look quite as badly flashed over as mine was, so you might be ok
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Post by looey on Apr 20, 2014 17:18:07 GMT 1
Done this recently on my TZR125 and it works incredibly well but you need to be very careful with that surface flash rusting that forms as soon as you've got the vinegar out. What happens is, the petrol slowly washes it off and it accumulates in like loads of orange thin flakes and on mine it eventually blocked the fuel tap filter inside the tank. I've since removed the tap again and cleaned and flushed it all out and it seems to be fine now
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Post by looey on Apr 20, 2014 14:03:50 GMT 1
I thought that was the done thing, to sell the sports bike and get something like an LC when coming of age . But you might as well sell me that RGV, miles too uncomfortable for you
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Post by looey on Apr 20, 2014 9:51:55 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Apr 19, 2014 17:41:19 GMT 1
Sorry mate, I don't know the difference between the 10v00 and 10v01 but I suspect as has been said, for the Mk1 & Mk2 ? I'm sure someone will be along soon who knows
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Post by looey on Apr 19, 2014 12:19:05 GMT 1
Not sure about the later models but all Mk1 RD125LC's and DT125LC's have 10V casings and 10V Heads
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Post by looey on Apr 18, 2014 18:07:05 GMT 1
I'll have any old oil spare if anyone doesn't trust it and wants to get rid ,I'll gladly turn it to smoke Lol.......that's funny Shane I think how it's stored is as important as anything. The oil in my TZR that was stored for 16 years looks fine and the bike was kept in a dry warm environment, so has no corrosion anywhere, so as it was a full tank I thought bugger it, I'll use it.....Shane would
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Post by looey on Apr 18, 2014 17:36:13 GMT 1
Well it's worth knowing. I've never had a problem with a 125LC or 350LC head gasket but have with a YPVS 350 in the past
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Post by looey on Apr 18, 2014 17:00:42 GMT 1
Aaaarh right, so they have a dry black painted surface. I take it that finish is either soft enough to act as a sealant when torqued down, or gets sticky the first time it gets hot . Maybe not on the YPVS but on the 125 & 350LC they used to have a sticky (like tar) finish and used to stick so hard they were difficult to get off !.
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Post by looey on Apr 18, 2014 16:39:15 GMT 1
Well, I've just bought 5 litres of Exol Optima Racing fully synth for £30 off ebay as I've read good things about it. It meets all the specs so should be ok. Decent stuff is getting silly now, even Halford's own is nearly £12 a litre. Does look good that, buy a 25 litre drum and it works out £4.30 / litre delivered
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Post by looey on Apr 18, 2014 12:06:48 GMT 1
In all of our highly strung 2-strokes I use Visio-Vision Fully Synthetic that Wemoto sell for £7.98 per Litre
It's red in colour (which I prefer, so it's easy to detect from other oils in the bike and also incase of gearbox contamination) and I've run it for a years now.
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Post by looey on Apr 18, 2014 11:55:20 GMT 1
I have brought two recently and they both had special black paint coating.. For a YPVS 350 ?. Could you by any chance put a pic up of one, so I can compare it to the one I bought ?
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Post by looey on Apr 17, 2014 13:25:32 GMT 1
Do the latest genuine gaskets have special paint or a black coating ?.
A few years ago they used to have like a shiny tar like finish but all the genuine head gaskets I have purchased over the last few years are just dry metal leaf type ?.
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Post by looey on Apr 17, 2014 13:21:54 GMT 1
What's wrong with Tesco Value 2T ?.....lol Tesco don't make oil, and it's probably far better than what we were chucking in when the bikes were new 30 years ago Granted it's not what I would buy now but I wouldn't throw it out
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Post by looey on Apr 17, 2014 9:00:11 GMT 1
You could play safe and replace it but unless it's got contaminated with water or something else it should be fine. I recommissioned a TZR125 last summer that had been standing since 1988 and the oil looked ok, so I left it in there and it's been fine ragging it around like a loon
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Post by looey on Apr 16, 2014 19:59:36 GMT 1
If it's just been rebuilt or not run for a while then I'd say get some miles on it and see if it clears or gets better first ?.
If it's still bad then it should be something simple like needle position.
Main jet doesn't really come into full play until 3/4 throttle upwards, so unless it's massively too big then it shouldn't cause mid-range slutter
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Post by looey on Apr 16, 2014 19:26:47 GMT 1
I did a load of research on here before doing my first YPVS head gasket and there's so many differing opinions it's almost no help... lol I ended up using a genuine head gasket (dry metal leaf type), which I've now used twice with no leaks or system pressurising either time. What I did was..... Fitted barrels but only did the 8 nuts up as tight as I could by hand (fingers, no tools) Applied the absolute thinnest application of clear RTV Silicone sealant to both sides of the Head Gasket (so little, you can only just see the surface is wet as a result) Torqued to 24 pounds in progressive stages Left an hour and re-chequed the torque (they tighten slightly) Then did the 8 barrel bolts up spanner tight Ran it up dry but only for long enough the for barrels to get some heat in them (certainly not anywhere near hot) Left if to cool overnight and re-torqued again (again they tighened slightly) Filled it up with coolant and rode it a few gentle miles Left it to go cold again and re-checked the torque settings (bolts didn't move this time). Like I said, that's how I decided to do it after reading all the advice and opinions on here, you'll have to do the same I think, listen to all the opinions and make your choice. You could always try it dry then try the sealant option if it doesn't seal ?. Good luck.
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Post by looey on Apr 14, 2014 8:28:15 GMT 1
Don't we usually leave from the Halfway House at 11am ish ?. Get there anytime from 10:00am, depending how much sh*te you wonna talk and how much tea you need
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Post by looey on Apr 11, 2014 17:12:18 GMT 1
Yeah no renewals anymore, they are permanent now unless you change it.
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Post by looey on Apr 6, 2014 9:41:04 GMT 1
Yes a lovely Hybrid that Did you just build it ?. If you did, then there's another one out there almost identical, same colour, ypvs engine, ZX6r B1H forks, RGV arm etc. etc.
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Post by looey on Apr 5, 2014 9:58:57 GMT 1
Sorry to hear that Mr Mellow, you better get it sorted pdq ! The Garage we met last time was in Sissinghurst I think, wasn't it ?.
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Post by looey on Apr 4, 2014 15:48:22 GMT 1
Right all back together with gaskets both sides. Used the 2 existing gaskets and made 2 new ones. Thanks for the input
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Post by looey on Apr 4, 2014 14:17:41 GMT 1
Yeah ta for the link.
That will be ok for the Carb rubber to reed block joint but will it go over the larger vforce reeds ?.
I've got an old standard gasket here and it doesn't go over the reed petal side ?
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Post by looey on Apr 4, 2014 12:34:19 GMT 1
Does anyone know a Vforce stockist I could get new gaskets from ?.
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Post by looey on Apr 4, 2014 11:42:23 GMT 1
Yes thanks guys, I'll get on it now. I'll get some new inlet rubbers as well, as mine are starting to show external sights of cracking (only very very slight on the surface though) Cheers again
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Post by looey on Apr 4, 2014 11:18:13 GMT 1
Cheers for that, sounds like mine is the same problem !.
The bike came with them already fitted and they look like home-made gaskets which aren't quite the same each side !.
It's not running quite right and when I've ridden for a while, I can see a mixture patch seeping from the top of the joint between the inlet rubbers and the reed block !.
So they are standard YPVS 350 inlet rubber that will take the PWK28's and have the inner ears cut off to mate with the Vforce reeds correctly ?.
Is that right ?.
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Post by looey on Apr 4, 2014 10:40:40 GMT 1
Trying to sort an intake leak on my Hybrid . Can anyone tell me what gaskets would have been supplied with the Vforce3 reeds and where they should be fitted, i.e. both sides of the reed assembly, or just between the reed assembly and the barrel inlets ?. Also, fitting KR1s PWK28's with the Vforce3 reeds to the YPVS 350, do they use the standard YPVS carb inlet rubbers ?. Thanks
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Post by looey on Apr 4, 2014 10:00:31 GMT 1
Where's the usual meet place for this one ?. I get confused between this one and the Southend Shakedown
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