Another Lc engine rebuild !!

[dusty350]

Barrels are left as they are. I love the vapour blasted look, especially against the black cylinder head. Did the same on my last Lc engine and my orange hybrids valve engine is the same too.
I do get a bit OCD with building them to be honest - probably coz I build more than ride, but I believe if it's really clean to start with it's easier to keep clean in use !

Dusty

[dusty350]

As you can see in the last pic, I fitted the first of the hoses. Red Samco hoses came with this bike, and although I'm not a fan of coloured hoses, the fact the bike is a red 2 stripe hybrid, I think they are fine. Plus I don't want the expense of changing good quality hoses just because of the colour !!
The top hose union was really manky when I dug it out of the box of engine bits, so I stripped the paint off and polished it;

20181127_193628 by David Miller, on Flickr

And then bought a new gasket for it;

20181127_193333 by David Miller, on Flickr

£5.05 from Fowlers. I also polished up the temp sender as it looked tired;

20181127_192846 by David Miller, on Flickr

The hose union on the back of the head got a polish, and a new gasket too;

20181202_151303 by David Miller, on Flickr

£1.55. I bought the NOS head off ebay last year for £200, so the top end part of this build has been very expensive !! Thankfully the head bolts had already been chromed, and although they were covered in grime they cleaned up lovely. 2 new Ngk plugs finished off the cylinder head

Dusty

[bezzer]

Dec 19, 2018 18:35:36 GMT 1 rd84 said:

Dec 19, 2018 18:32:29 GMT 1 dusty350 said:

Hi Paul
Unfortunately, "Dave" the Hoglet died a few days after going to the sanctuary
They found he had a broken leg and some damage to his back - possibly caused by another animal, and hence why he was out in the open during daylight.
At least he had a comfortable last few days.

Dusty

Well done for trying Dusty

Cheers

Paul 

+1 on Paul’s comment, good that you did make him safe and comfortable mate 🤗👍🏻.
On a lighter note I’m really enjoying the detail of this rebuild thread, especially as I’m just at the clutch stage myself!.

Regards bezzer

[dusty350]

Cheers Bezzer
Rotor can be fixed back on now. I've not made any timing marks on this engine as it came to me in bits, so it will need timing once everything is done and before it goes back in the frame. If I had stripped it beforehand I would have made some marks, but you should always check your timing afterwards anyway to make sure it's spot on.
So, washer, spring washer and nut;

20181222_110823 by David Miller, on Flickr

And using the rotor tool and a torque wrench, tighten up to 61ft/lb;

20181222_111309 by David Miller, on Flickr

Once tight, I make a mark with a permanent marker on the nut so I can easily check it during the initial running/early miles;

20181223_094415 by David Miller, on Flickr

Next - the stator wiring grommet. I don't have the correct tool for removing the wires from the connector blocks that come away from the stator, and even if I did, I'm not sure I want to disturb them due to their age ! So I cheat, and cut the grommet straight down the middle, allowing me to wrap it around the wiring. I then use superglue to stick it permanently back together. Some black insulating tape makes it water tight. Doesn't look as clean as a non taped grommet, but it's preferable to messing with connectors, imo, and not seen once the carbs are in place;

20181222_111856 by David Miller, on Flickr

I had an offcut of carb overflow pipe, so used that for the crankcase breather;

20181222_111906 by David Miller, on Flickr

And fitted the kick start gear;

20181222_112245 by David Miller, on Flickr

20181222_112436 by David Miller, on Flickr

Dusty

[ringding]

Shiniest flywheel ever! 😀

[donkeychomp]

Ah...thought I was missing something on my temp sender. The clip part! I will solder one on.

Alex

ps good choice on the barrels. Makes it very trick looking!

[marrcel]

Love your work Dusty!
My special xmas tip is to use self vulcanising tape. This is tape without the messy glue. It vulcanises together after taping.
It is very stretchy so your taping is always thight.
It keeps the same apperance after lots of years.

[dusty350]

Hi Marcel
I do have a roll of self vulcanising tape. Bought it for a loom a few builds ago, but I prefer a good quality insulating tape to be honest, hence using it again this time.
As Santa delivered 2 new inlet rubbers, I decided to fit them today. These genuine rubbers from Norbo are £35.00 each. Fowlers price is £78.00 each, so you know where to buy them .
2 new Yam gaskets for the inlet;

20181226_120302 by David Miller, on Flickr

£2.64 each from Fowlers. The inlets are a prime place for an air leak, so even though I had really cleaned up the reed cages, I used a good amount of Threebond on both sides of the gasket, the reed block and on the inside of the rubber too. First one on;

20181226_122313 by David Miller, on Flickr

Then the other;

20181226_125734 by David Miller, on Flickr

New bolts and washers, new stainless hose clips and a re polished cross over tube. Also bought new clips for the cross over tube - they can make a big difference for solving leaks;

20181226_125446 by David Miller, on Flickr

£1.32 each.
Ready for a pressure test now, and check the timing and then the engine is done. Gotta get the clutch side case powdercoated - satin black this time to match the head, and then rebuild the oil and water pumps.

Dusty

[alankelly]

Hi Dusty

Looks fantastic 👍👍👍

Keep up a great work👍👍👍

Best wishes Always

[bezzer]

+1 Al, a great source of reference too 👍🏻

[mak595]

Awesome work

[bid]

wish i had this sort of attention to detail as dusty has, cracking is this, job more than well done, oh and merry christmas and happy new year to one and all, and lets all have a toast to the little hog that sadly never made it too, 😉

[marrcel]

I am curious about how you will set the timing.

[dusty350]

Hi Marcel
Timing will be set to 2.0mm btdc with a dial gauge. Just got to get one first though !!
Couple of small wiring repairs today. First was to repair the neutral switch wire from the stator as the forked end was, well, forked !!

20181228_122658 by David Miller, on Flickr

Soldered on and shrinkwrapped;

20181228_151721 by David Miller, on Flickr

Also soldered on a new female connector on the white/red wire from the stator that goes to the Cdi. Then I decided to do the pressure test. I cut some new rubber and using my existing circular plastic plates, I blocked off the exhaust ports using the new exhaust manifolds;

20181228_163015 by David Miller, on Flickr

Pumped up to 6psi and left for about 35 minutes, and the needle didn't budge at all, so well happy with that

20181228_182812 by David Miller, on Flickr

Dusty

[donkeychomp]

Saw this engine earlier and it's coming along a treat. Great news about the 6psi mate!

Alex

[tacky1]

Looking great. 6psi and nothing lost. That’s a win. Nice job 👍

[dusty350]

Thanks
Took the red hose off today to give it a final clean up, and fitted new hose clamps;

20181229_104203 by David Miller, on Flickr

I'm going to pop the clutch case on temporarily and fit the engine back in the frame. I can time it, once I get a dial gauge, with the engine in the frame. Clutch case had some bad screwdriver damage where a previous owner has prised the circular disc out. I dressed the damage back with a Dremel and some abrasive pads. It was already stripped of paint and semi polished, but it's gonna be powdercoated satin black;

20181229_104301 by David Miller, on Flickr

Dusty

[dusty350]

Engine is now back in the frame - first time the engine has been in since I've owned the bike;

20181229_133346 by David Miller, on Flickr

20181229_133401 by David Miller, on Flickr

Whilst securing the side case, I found a stripped thread on one of the lower casing holes so I need to repair that - I can get to it with the engine in the frame.

Dusty

[alankelly]

Hi Dusty

Looking good as always 👍👍

Have a great new year

Best wishes Al

[dusty350]

Cheers Alan
Happy New year to you too

Regards

Dusty

[panzermatt]

i cant imagine anyone saying this about your work.

[bezzer]

Looks great back in the chassis Dusty 👍🏻, those discs and the carbon muddy look sooooo pornographic!!! 😁

[350guy]

Season's greetings Dusty!
As always, you are indeed a great source of inspiration.
I was going thru this thread, and on page #4, seems like the lock on the nut that holds the clutch basket is wrongly placed??
Cause the little tab on the lock needs to be lifted against the nut once the nut is tightened to prevent it from loosening I would suppose...
I also looked at the pictures of my engine at the time I had disassembled.....at are a few pictures. if you zoom in you will be able to tell..
Unless I've mistaken??

K'rgds,

Daryl

[350guy]

[tacky1]

Dec 30, 2018 1:51:52 GMT 1 350guy said:

Season's greetings Dusty!
As always, you are indeed a great source of inspiration.
I was going thru this thread, and on page #4, seems like the lock on the nut that holds the clutch basket is wrongly placed??
Cause the little tab on the lock needs to be lifted against the nut once the nut is tightened to prevent it from loosening I would suppose...
I also looked at the pictures of my engine at the time I had disassembled.....at are a few pictures. if you zoom in you will be able to tell..
Unless I've mistaken??

K'rgds,

Daryl

I'm afraid yours is backwards Daryl.

The square metal tab goes the opposite way on yours and you then bend the metal washer against the nut. The tab should be on the clutch drum.

[dusty350]

Hi Daryl,
Hope you are well
Tacky is right, yours is on the wrong way round. That folded tab locates in a cut out in the inner basket - locks the washer in place as you tighten the nut. If you look at the first clutch hub pic on page 4 you can see the folded tab located in the cut out. There is one slightly folded edge on the washer - that's what you press down onto the flat edge of the tightened clutch centre nut;

20181216_115111 by David Miller, on Flickr

20181202_131742 by David Miller, on Flickr

Hth

Dusty

[dbgr]

Hi Dusty, just out of interest what size is the centre nut and what tourque is it tightened to.. thanx

[dusty350]

Hi
You'll need a 32mm socket and torque it to 47ft/lb. I got my lad to hold it whilst I torqued it on the bench, and used the clutch holding tool and the flattened copper pipe as the engine wants to flip over otherwise.

Dusty

[350guy]

Hi Tacky and Dusty! I stand corrected, you guys are certainly the LC guru's!
Clearly, mine was totally wrong in the first place. Those were the pictures from last year when I begun disassembly and now slowly beginning to put it together.....once again, I stand corrected. Thank you so much.

K'rgds,

Daryl

[hudtm60]

Daryl Tacky and Dusty

thanks for making this public...I did exactly the same thing, I had the square tab against the nut! luckily had only just finished the clutch, didn't have any grinding paste to lap the rotor so was just browsing when I read about it so am able to rectify without too many tears.

This forum never ceases to amaze me, has brought me more help and joy than religion.