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Post by JonW on May 15, 2024 5:42:24 GMT 1
I didnt get a pic today, but was walking in a local burb here in Aus and a bike was parked up by the pub with the plate MILFZ. I kid you not. We had a big news item here (I may even have posted it) about the lawyer with the plate something like LEGOPNR on his lambo and how they took it away, the MILFZ one is bound to get removed cos someone is bound to take offence, but made me laugh today. If i see it again, I'll photo it.
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Post by JonW on May 15, 2024 1:05:55 GMT 1
I think it'll be fine, that torque isnt vast and I bet thats at least what you did if you did it as 'tight as you dare' with the JIS driver etc* * - Its internet advice tho, what do I know... I didnt do it up, im not there... opinions are like aholes etc etc These engines held together well enough when spotty teens worked on em with the wrong tools and no torque wrench or loctite etc. Ive never torque tested my work with this screw, just did it up 'FT' - or 'as tight as I could'. The JIS driver defo means its tighter than a philips could do as that will tend to cam out (lets not go into if this is a feature or not of that design lol) But, if this worries you... my advice is to fix it now while its apart. Defo dont leave it til later so that you worry about it and have to work on it when its a huge job to fix it, ie pull the engine apart when its running.
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Post by JonW on May 14, 2024 14:34:04 GMT 1
Hi mouse , yes that's exactly right just toutches, ok so that's the solution, I wanted to check to see if we had the wrong calliper or something! I will put it in the mill and take a smidge out of the bracket. Thank you 😊 Hey, no prob, i don't have a mill, so did mine with a hand file, it's probably only a couple of mm. As an aside i ended up binning the set up and went back to a standard RGV caliper, the Brembo caliper was hopeless!
mouse Ahh... That wont be music to Chris' ears but I was quietly pleased to hear it as for years Ive coveted doing this 'upgrade' to one of my RGV rear ended projects and that new saves me a bit of money I guess. I quite like the tandem caliper of the VJ22, but have had unfixable ones over the years. FYI to anyone rebuilding one, Kawasaki used em as well and their parts are generally cheaper.
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Post by JonW on May 14, 2024 0:31:47 GMT 1
JonW, I disliked your post a lot less before you modified it after me responding. Get your facts straight, Ive not modded any of my posts in this thread. Stop stirring.
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Post by JonW on May 12, 2024 14:11:37 GMT 1
Can you make one from a bit of tube?
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Post by JonW on May 12, 2024 13:42:09 GMT 1
haha, the seller even mentions my nail version... but eek, the price! Hahahaha sorry Jon ! I didn’t see your listing prior to making the comment ! Just a “ great minds “ moment but as yours was listed first I will send you a wording fee 😂 I sourced two and thought I may as well list the other one. Don’t realise it would get to those dizzy heights 😂 Too funny! Its crazy what people will pay for what have become rare parts. Fact of life of course.
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Post by JonW on May 12, 2024 10:21:50 GMT 1
Sigh... I give up.
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Post by JonW on May 12, 2024 7:40:53 GMT 1
agree with above, sounds like its losing the connection.
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Post by JonW on May 12, 2024 3:14:25 GMT 1
Get a crimp tool and buy a new connector block with the actual connectors loose in the pack, reusing old ones is ok if you have them as Tony says but can be a nightmare as a lot of the old ones have corroded wire as theyve lead a life or two already. With the new ones you simply crimp on the wires when cut to length and then slip em into the block in the right order. Very easy and satisfying to do.
The tools are cheap and easy to find and will make the job simple and easy and you'll own the tool for next time you want to do this.
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Post by JonW on May 12, 2024 2:01:03 GMT 1
You wont like what i have to say, but you rarely do so I'll carry on. I'm posting now cos I actually worry about what youve been asking recently and your safety.
A 1/2" master cyl isnt 'for' a particular bike, its just a 1/2" master. Read the old forum posts about how well they work on the twin calipers, you might be surprised.
I still wonder why on earth arent you buying OEM seal kits if you want the bike to be '100% right', if the OEM kits dont work then its a bigger issue etc. Better still find a nos or new master cylinder, even if its slightly different to look at (for your F1 you can still buy a brand new master, a 3HE, the info is on this very forum). Refurbing old stuff isnt always the best plan, especially if youre new to the parts/systems involved.
Brakes are super important on any vehicle. You should make sure they work properly. If you dont know stuff or are floundering, seek professional help with them. Asking on the net and making sweeping statements while refurbing old parts that turn out to be cheap copies is a scary way to put trust into the bike youre riding.
Please dont just rant about what ive written, simply treat it as advice and consider what Ive said as Im trying to keep you safe.
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Post by JonW on May 12, 2024 0:32:18 GMT 1
haha, the seller even mentions my nail version... but eek, the price!
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Post by JonW on May 11, 2024 14:37:55 GMT 1
thats mad price for such a simple thing to make Maybe i should buy some 6inch nails and make some and get em plated... claim i lost the bag like a good ole ebayer, i could be rich! lol
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Post by JonW on May 9, 2024 14:38:18 GMT 1
lol
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Post by JonW on May 9, 2024 7:22:17 GMT 1
CTEK do a fancy connector with LEDs to tell you the battery health... dont use it on a bike that you rarely use as it will run the battery down... Ask me how I know... Anyone want to buy 5 CTEK LED cables?
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Post by JonW on May 9, 2024 0:22:54 GMT 1
I think it was Canada that got most of the 51X production wasnt it? Worth asking on the RZRD500 forum?
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Post by JonW on May 9, 2024 0:21:36 GMT 1
They say 'If you have to ask...'
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Post by JonW on May 8, 2024 8:47:51 GMT 1
cable tie to the bar for a day. pump fast, pump slow, tickle it... then cable tie again. Do this until the lever firms up.
I take Abar's point that if you dont know what kit was used in the master Id be wary, the OEM kit isnt that exy and you know its right... get the seals the right way round. Ebayers dont always know and do things wrong...
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Post by JonW on May 8, 2024 3:16:34 GMT 1
Good ole Mr Hewlett!
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Post by JonW on May 8, 2024 1:41:25 GMT 1
Yep the 350 is wider... 22.5mm compared to the 19.5mm of the '250/500' version. LOL, why would people assume I'd fit these in a 350? haha... I still think that you guys really missed out not having 250s past the LC I reckon, and not getting the most advanced of all the RD/RZ cyls (ie the Boeysen ported 51L) seems like a slap in the face really... revvy and smooth, 250 pistons were what this engine was made for! Dont forget, Aus is awash with 250s as our 'road tax' (we call it 'Rego') costs were much cheaper for the sub 250 class for decades in many states, so many many were sold here and there are much fewer 350s around. The government skews what we buy, as ever... ie. Canada and USA never had 250s cos there was no benefit for punters as laws didnt favour a smaller cc, like the UK once the 250 learner law ended, becoming 125 and 12bhp etc. And then the opposite in Japan, where they loved the 250 for their laws. Ok... back to these bearings... I was just quoting above what i found on-line sellers, as some do mention the 350... but, yep, its good to point it out of course as it is wrong. (I'll remove it from the first post to avoid someone thinking its right) FWIW 350 uses the D6 version for those wondering : 93310-316D6-00 : easily available as fitted to banshee of course. Anyway... The original question remains... whats the difference with these parts numbers as i can get at least 2 of these part numbers new still? (In retrospect I'm thinking that perhaps no one knows cos there is minimal 250 and 500 model experience here perhaps cos most people have a 350)
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Post by JonW on May 7, 2024 14:11:12 GMT 1
From what I can tell these are all the same bearing and Yam says these are a superseding part, but some are cheaper than others... anyone know why?
93310-316H7-00 93310-316D5-00 93310-316C9-00
These all seem to fit the RD/RZ 250 and 500 (and other bikes of course) (and should not be used in a 350 top end no matter what the website selling them says)
And, as far as i can tell are all 16 x 21 x 19.5mm
C9 seems to be the latest and cheapest, is its cheapness reflected in lesser quality I wonder or just more available?
I dont have all to hand so cant see if some are not Japanese made.
Of course, Yam's prices are not set for any good reason I can tell, so could just be the prices were set without any recourse to what the old parts were priced at
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Locks
May 6, 2024 14:38:41 GMT 1
Post by JonW on May 6, 2024 14:38:41 GMT 1
Ive looked on youtube and seen the video On how to cut a key from a blank Thanks for the advice guys Can anyone tell me what blank key i need or a link to where Much appreciated Thanks no, find another yam key that fits in the barrel (wont turn obvs) and then key all the locks to that is what i mean. Its fiddly but not rocket science. many have done this on here, loads of mentions in threads etc. so worth a search, im sure some threads also link videos on that. Thats why it'd be good to know what code it is A thru F... find the same code and rekey... I did ask what it says under the ignition? Yam blanks are available from dealers and just get that cut to match the new key you just bought and rekeyed the locks to. Its really not hard.
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Locks
May 6, 2024 8:59:41 GMT 1
Post by JonW on May 6, 2024 8:59:41 GMT 1
no number under the ignition? F12345?
Many of us do our own rekeys... youtube has vids on it, plenty of threads on here too mentioning how.
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MOT's
May 6, 2024 2:04:46 GMT 1
Post by JonW on May 6, 2024 2:04:46 GMT 1
Its always worth checking insurance PDS wording, but Id think that if its over 40 and the rules that apply to road vehicles are that it doesnt need an MOT then you should be fine... but internet advice is worthless... you could just ring them and check, thats simple and easy.
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Post by JonW on May 6, 2024 2:02:01 GMT 1
Take the master cylinder off and strip and rebuild it, dont trust a simple 'poking the hole'. If its gummed up, it needs work.
Crank seals and a check over, yep +1 on that for me.
If youre in this to make money on selling it then I doubt that you will, if you want to ride and enjoy the bike then youre already ahead in this game as you have one.
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Post by JonW on May 6, 2024 1:59:10 GMT 1
Bloody AI posts... Last pic... Catt, not Batt.... c'mon Meta, sort yerselves out!
Loving the idea the washing now smells of 2T oil... haha, the smell of summer-a-comin!
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Post by JonW on May 6, 2024 1:55:34 GMT 1
Sorry I thought you had a key There’s a guy on ebay can make them all fit one key ive had it done a couple of times but can’t remember who (had a couple of beers) Simon Wells?
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Post by JonW on May 6, 2024 0:17:07 GMT 1
pic of this part and how it fits?
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Post by JonW on May 5, 2024 1:03:03 GMT 1
clean it up and repaint it
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Post by JonW on May 5, 2024 1:02:23 GMT 1
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Post by JonW on May 5, 2024 0:19:43 GMT 1
+1
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