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Post by Bozzy on Mar 29, 2024 23:03:51 GMT 1
Hi, Just planning the re-build and sorry have a few basic questions but I need to ask unfortunately:- 1) The Philips retaining screws to the side clutch plate both top and bottom I see blue Loctite used (ie one the spans the top and bottom cases) seen rebuild chap using just T bar to tighten them I was more thinking whack with the impact driver? 2) Crank end drive... best to fit before crank in or as book bar through rods with blocks to hold then tighten end nut? Loaded up some pics on the engine refresh rdlccrazy.proboards.com/thread/60780/31k-ypvs-engine-refresh-timetime but assume.. worried about the marks just wire wool them as I see most motors on hear nice and shiny!...  original-2BC2F7BC-4045-41DE-BCE0-6E77F60A1A7B by stephen Bostock, on Flickr |
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Post by chrisg on Mar 29, 2024 23:44:24 GMT 1
Shiney engine cases are usually vapour blasted to give them a nice shine.
The casing screws are JIS not philips, so a JIS screwdriver is required unless you fit socket head screws (allen key).
I would fit the crank into the cases and fit the pinion gear later. I put a copper coin inbetween the pinion gear and the clutch.
Good luck.
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 30, 2024 8:15:42 GMT 1
Never a good idea to tighten anything with an impact driver, and the fixing screws and bolts dont need that amount of force anyway. Low strength loctite can be used if necessary. +1 on the screw heads being JIS (Japanese Industry Standard). A non JIS screwdriver can wreck the head of the screw - they are not that tough, so an incorrect screwdriver can damage them fairly easily when force is applied. Wire wool wont get your cases as nice as vapour blasting will. Vapour leaves a finish looking like your cases have been sprayed with a nice silver paint, and also seals the pores of the ally, making them easier to keep clean. Plus it gets in the small nooks that fingers and wire wool wont  It's the first thing I get done when doing an engine rebuild. Andy - avb on here, does vapour blasting, plus others - depends on where you are based really. I fit the primary drive gear after the cases are bolted together. If you haven't already, invest in a clutch holding tool and a rotor holding tool - cheap enough and essential for an engine build. I used to use an old 2p piece for locking the gears but you have to check the age of them !! iirc, any coin after 1991 has more steel content so is a harder coin and not ideal, so I use a short piece of 15mm copper pipe, flattened with a hammer to lock the gears, although some rag does the trick too. Loads of engine build info on the forum. Worth reading up on it before you start  |
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Post by Bozzy on Mar 30, 2024 14:16:29 GMT 1
Thanks really appreciate the feedback. Know some basic questions but we know some obvious stuff done wrong causes major grief
I was trying to find that motor build on the site?
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Post by chrisg on Mar 30, 2024 16:30:28 GMT 1
Thanks really appreciate the feedback. Know some basic questions but we know some obvious stuff done wrong causes major grief I was trying to find that motor build on the site? Remember, every days a school day and there no such things as stupid questions, just questions, this is how we all learn. |
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Post by Bozzy on Apr 1, 2024 11:08:14 GMT 1
I am unsure if to replace the selector drum bearing. Is this something usually done on a rebuild?. if so to remove the screw wrap drum in cloth in vice to remove with impact driver? not sure how tight this is and wondered best way without damage to the drum etc.... bearing does feel ok but box has done 35k
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 1, 2024 11:54:34 GMT 1
I always replace them on my engine builds, but even a new Yam bearing doesn't feel much better than the old one ! They don't do the workload other bearings do, but I always do mine as a belt and braces exercise. Loosen the end screw whilst the drum is fixed in the casing ' an impact driver is your friend as they can be tight, allied with the correct JIS bit for the driver. I now loosen every bolt and screw possible before removing an engine, as the bike acts as another pair of hands, if you get my drift 😉
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Post by 4l04ever on Apr 1, 2024 12:23:04 GMT 1
After taking Nick's seized engine apart (Back to school project), I found that his cylinders had seized onto the cylinder studs.
I looked at my freshly blasted casings and noticed the studs are now no longer zinc-plated, so I have added one more task to my engine builds and that is to remove all the studs and get them zinc-plated before assembling, to avoid future cylinder-to-stud seizures.
The black coating I had done on my TZ studs is more corrosion-resistant than normal zinc plating, so will probably go with that from now on.
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Post by Bozzy on Apr 1, 2024 12:23:59 GMT 1
I always replace them on my engine builds, but even a new Yam bearing doesn't feel much better than the old one !@ They don't do the workload other bearings do, but I always do mine as a belt and braces exercise. Loosen the end screw whilst the drum is fixed in the casing ' an impact driver is your friend as they can be tight, allied with the correct JIS bit for the driver. I now loosen every bolt and screw possible before removing an engine, as the bike acts as another pair of hands, if you get my drift 😉 Thanks problem is drum is now lose out the motor not sure if to leave it rather than cause more issues or round the screw. It’s a roller bearing I see perhaps I can clean out with petrol and re oil |
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Post by markrd250lc on Apr 1, 2024 14:01:23 GMT 1
If budget allows i would use genuine gaskets and seals on the rebuild.
Mark
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Post by dusty350 on Apr 1, 2024 14:22:02 GMT 1
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Post by urbantangleweed on Apr 1, 2024 17:49:57 GMT 1
I have a woodworking vice with big wooden jaws, this holds the selector drum carefully but firmly and one whack on the impact driver (with a JIS impact bit fitted) loosens the screw every time. Don't use a regular cross-head bit,you'll most likely muller the end of the screw.
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Post by abar121 on Apr 2, 2024 9:40:38 GMT 1
I have a woodworking vice with big wooden jaws, this holds the selector drum carefully but firmly and one whack on the impact driver (with a JIS impact bit fitted) loosens the screw every time. Don't use a regular cross-head bit,you'll most likely muller the end of the screw. This. |
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Post by 4l04ever on Apr 2, 2024 9:58:55 GMT 1
Use good gaskets. The gaskets I make are a better fit than most of the other after-market gaskets. Fit the reed blocks and gaskets with Threebond 1215. Fit the head gasket with no extra coatings. Fit all the other gaskets with a thin smear of grease to aid disassambly in the future.
Use OEM or ARS seals. ARS make the OEM seals so they are the same! You can get ARS seal sets from MBD.
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Post by Bozzy on Apr 4, 2024 9:00:55 GMT 1
Thanks got some JIS impact bits, dont know why I worry sometimes..... wrapped in cloth vise whack and its done no damage so happy days...
I was 100% considering using some instant gasket on the head to be absolutely sure, got original head gasket, not worked out what best sealant to use yet
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Post by JonW on Apr 5, 2024 0:41:51 GMT 1
Use good gaskets. The gaskets I make are a better fit than most of the other after-market gaskets. Fit the reed blocks and gaskets with Threebond 1215. Fit the head gasket with no extra coatings. Fit all the other gaskets with a thin smear of grease to aid disassambly in the future. Use OEM or ARS seals. ARS make the OEM seals so they are the same! You can get ARS seal sets from MBD. With you on all that, but i copper spray even brand new OEM head gaskets now after an engine leak hassle. |
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Post by brg1200 on Apr 5, 2024 1:31:28 GMT 1
Who are MBD?
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Post by JonW on Apr 5, 2024 2:46:45 GMT 1
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Post by urbantangleweed on Apr 5, 2024 7:02:16 GMT 1
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Post by steeley on Apr 5, 2024 11:15:17 GMT 1
Shiney engine cases are usually vapour blasted to give them a nice shine. The casing screws are JIS not philips, so a JIS screwdriver is required unless you fit socket head screws (allen key). I would fit the crank into the cases and fit the pinion gear later. I put a copper coin inbetween the pinion gear and the clutch. Good luck. Hi , i wouldn't use a coin because coins in the UK are plated steel . Use a piece of flat copper pipe . |
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Post by chrisg on Apr 5, 2024 11:28:01 GMT 1
Shiney engine cases are usually vapour blasted to give them a nice shine. The casing screws are JIS not philips, so a JIS screwdriver is required unless you fit socket head screws (allen key). I would fit the crank into the cases and fit the pinion gear later. I put a copper coin inbetween the pinion gear and the clutch. Good luck. Hi , i wouldn't use a coin because coins in the UK are plated steel . Use a piece of flat copper pipe . I have an old penny, when copper wasn't the trading commodity it is today. |
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Post by urbantangleweed on Apr 5, 2024 12:38:56 GMT 1
Shiney engine cases are usually vapour blasted to give them a nice shine. The casing screws are JIS not philips, so a JIS screwdriver is required unless you fit socket head screws (allen key). I would fit the crank into the cases and fit the pinion gear later. I put a copper coin inbetween the pinion gear and the clutch. Good luck. Hi , i wouldn't use a coin because coins in the UK are plated steel . Use a piece of flat copper pipe . Copper coins dated before 1992 are what you need, they were 97% copper, 2.5% zinc and 0.5% tin. In 1992 the composition became 94% mild steel with copper plating making up the remaining 6%, DON'T USE THESE OR LATER DATED "COPPERS". |
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Post by headcoats on Apr 5, 2024 12:43:17 GMT 1
I started using a folded up piece of leather
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Post by urbantangleweed on Apr 5, 2024 19:38:07 GMT 1
My gear locking penny, minted in 1989 😊  |
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Post by Bozzy on Apr 13, 2024 23:08:40 GMT 1
Hi Is this toast or recoverable you can feel the grooves in the two from the plastic end last one not too bad?. It done less than 5k! Not tried any wet and dry yet any one got away doing this smoothing them down a bit ?  waterpump by Bozzy Bozzy, on Flickr |
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Post by urbantangleweed on Apr 14, 2024 13:58:36 GMT 1
Hi Is this toast or recoverable you can feel the grooves in the two from the plastic end last one not too bad?. It done less than 5k! Not tried any wet and dry yet any one got away doing this smoothing them down a bit ? waterpump by Bozzy Bozzy, on Flickr They look pretty deep, I'd worry about the oil and water getting friendly. |
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Post by Bozzy on Apr 15, 2024 0:28:04 GMT 1
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Post by JonW on Apr 15, 2024 1:32:35 GMT 1
plenty of chat about these over the years. not all have hardened shafts. Have a look in the search as you should be able to find those discussions plus those about bigger rads and impellers together etc.
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Post by urbantangleweed on Apr 15, 2024 6:36:57 GMT 1
Norbo has the Yam one for £57 or the ally type for £50. Whatever you go for, maybe also consider fitting a new seal and bearing while you're at it? On the Dirtbikestore one you linked to, depends where they're made/sourced from. If they're Chinese, you can get them for less than £20 direct from there. Would you want to risk going Chinese though on such an important part? www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225843194498 |
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Post by JonW on Apr 15, 2024 7:18:48 GMT 1
Would you want to risk going Chinese though on such an important part? Surely the 'extra flow' units are all Chinese these days? |
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It's the first thing I get done when doing an engine rebuild. Andy - avb on here, does vapour blasting, plus others - depends on where you are based really.
