|
Post by urbantangleweed on Apr 15, 2024 7:38:39 GMT 1
Would you want to risk going Chinese though on such an important part? Surely the 'extra flow' units are all Chinese these days? May well be? Think I'd stick with OE personally. I wonder, has anyone actually done any flow tests on these to see if they're any different to standard?
|
|
|
Post by JonW on Apr 15, 2024 7:53:38 GMT 1
yes someone did quite recently i think, might be on here?
|
|
|
Post by Bozzy on Apr 15, 2024 20:01:34 GMT 1
Had a look and appears stay with standard.. question the 55deg thermostat is this good move?. Have the large radiator fitted it does do the 50% temp back to1/4 then back up a couple of times but it looks like this option solves this
What I can’t get is how does this help run cooler and when warming up does not the motor stay colder until to temp
|
|
|
Post by Bozzy on May 3, 2024 17:58:03 GMT 1
Hi, Opinion clean enough ? used green brillo type pad to lightly take off the sealant etc but not sure if its best to go cleaner than this processed-B154D9B1-2D93-4558-ADE9-70A1B9CBC617 by Bozzy Bozzy, on Flickr and thoughts about this back clutch bearing (its the one that fits into the case back of clutch).. not sure if its been spinning on the shaft etc... Assume they are just slide on and was thinking about bit of bearing lock but not sure if its designed to have some movement.. Anyone done this?. processed-EF855FFC-E2DC-427F-96F6-B9429631D603 by Bozzy Bozzy, on Flickr
|
|
|
Post by urbantangleweed on May 4, 2024 8:04:01 GMT 1
Hi, Opinion clean enough ? used green brillo type pad to lightly take off the sealant etc but not sure if its best to go cleaner than this processed-B154D9B1-2D93-4558-ADE9-70A1B9CBC617 by Bozzy Bozzy, on Flickr and thoughts about this back clutch bearing (its the one that fits into the case back of clutch).. not sure if its been spinning on the shaft etc... Assume they are just slide on and was thinking about bit of bearing lock but not sure if its designed to have some movement.. Anyone done this?. processed-EF855FFC-E2DC-427F-96F6-B9429631D603 by Bozzy Bozzy, on Flickr Head looks good enough to me, I lightly run a finger over it to feel for any high spots and most importantly, check it's flat. You can use the edge of a steel ruler to do this and hold it up to the light to see if any passes under it where there could be low spots, or see if a (max 12 thou') feeler blade passes under it anywhere. Alternatively, we have a granite cutting board which is very flat, I put them on there and see if there's any discerbible "rock" when it's face down, a piece of sheet glass also works well for this. Regarding the bearing, get a new one and see how it fits, it should be a snug sliding fit, if theres any movement you could try using a little bearing fit but this will only take up slight movement and I'd avoid using it unless100% necessary as getting the bearing off again requires heating the "goo" to about 100 degrees C for it to release.
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 4, 2024 10:34:35 GMT 1
Should that bearing not be squeezed by the clutch centre bolt so can't spin on the shaft 🤔
Steve
|
|
|
Post by Bozzy on May 4, 2024 20:48:42 GMT 1
yep you right thrush washer sits in front. Will have to look what that brown staining is looks like rust but could be bearing got hot.. sprocket bearing was brown with heat as well as the left mains.
|
|
|
Post by Bozzy on May 4, 2024 20:58:18 GMT 1
Cant find any detail about the selector drum. does the centre screw on rebuild need blue loctite or is it nothing?
|
|
|
Post by chrisg on May 4, 2024 21:04:56 GMT 1
Have you any other pics of the gear teeth. Look a bit worn from what I can see.
|
|
|
Post by Bozzy on May 4, 2024 21:30:53 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 4, 2024 22:24:59 GMT 1
Hard to tell from the pics but the stripes are usually normal and something to do with the case hardening
When knackered there is usually discolouration from heat or pitting running across the teeth just at the meshing point
Steve
|
|
|
Post by JonW on May 5, 2024 0:19:43 GMT 1
+1
|
|
|
Post by Bozzy on May 5, 2024 12:39:01 GMT 1
Think light is causing some odd reflections. I was planning to reassemble the motor tomorrow but this has concerned me somewhat
The motor has done 33k so expect this is reflected in the box. I had no issue at all prior to strip down but was some very fine dusting in the bottom of the cases
Thinking even worn gears like this is it not going to outlast me :-) / another rebuild period
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on May 5, 2024 14:15:28 GMT 1
What do the cases look like where that bearing sits ? I would be changing the gearbox bearings as a matter of course. That one you pictured is the , typically, most expensive one if you buy Yamaha - £61.73. Thankfully there is an alternative route to a Koyo bearing that is a lot cheaper - Koyo part number 963427 - ebay has one at £22.95
|
|
|
Post by 4l04ever on May 5, 2024 17:15:24 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by Bozzy on May 5, 2024 17:48:07 GMT 1
What do the cases look like where that bearing sits ? I would be changing the gearbox bearings as a matter of course. That one you pictured is the , typically, most expensive one if you buy Yamaha - £61.73. Thankfully there is an alternative route to a Koyo bearing that is a lot cheaper - Koyo part number 963427 - ebay has one at £22.95 Hi cases look ok no signs of heat etc I decided to replace all bearings so got original yam ones. It was concern over the actual gears but sure they will be ok
|
|
|
Post by 4l04ever on May 6, 2024 20:47:35 GMT 1
|
|
|
Post by Bozzy on May 6, 2024 21:05:27 GMT 1
typical never get a bargain paid full price at Yam shop.. thanks for the like perhaps someone will snap that up
|
|
|
Post by Bozzy on May 10, 2024 23:27:58 GMT 1
Hi,
Just wondered what the thought are about this.. Looking on line at couple of engine builds some are putting the case sealant around the oil seal faces on the bottom and top cases then dropping in the crank with seals and gears then sealant around the top case oil seal faces... I can see how its good that you basically end up with case sealant around all the faces>
Is this standard?. I was slightly concerned when viewing the sealant slightly squeezing out around the seals especially crank seals and potentially getting into the crank bearing?
|
|
|
Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 10, 2024 23:39:07 GMT 1
No sealant near oil seal seating faces 👎
Steve
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on May 11, 2024 6:49:06 GMT 1
Build your engine dry first. Seat the crank - the centre lab seal will allow the crank to rock if it's not seated. Get the crank and gears in place, noting you have the crank bearing pips in place, then tighten down the top case. Then test the rotation of the crank and gears to make sure nothing binds and all is well. Then undo and remove the top case, one last check of everything, then apply your sealant on the bottom case only. Run the sealant up to the seals but not over them. Use Yamaha seals ! Make sure the castellations on the large right hand seal face into the crank. The dry build "test" sounds a faff but it's "belt and braces", and if something isn't quite right you wont have gasket goo to deal with, plus it doesn't take much more time. You really dont want to be taking it apart again if there is an issue
|
|
|
Post by Bozzy on May 11, 2024 14:43:41 GMT 1
Thanks great advice good idea to make sure it’s ok before sealant
So best not to put the sealant around the seals I wondered when seeing this on the ytube if it was a good idea or not. Def did not get gearbox side as it’s not under pressure anyway but wondered about the crank seals to casing but will do it dry.
|
|