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Post by cb250g5 on Jun 27, 2013 23:34:26 GMT 1
You can't use LED signals and the original wiring scheme for a single idiot light.
On my hybrid, now Looeys, I modified the wiring scheme, using 2 diodes to get things working as they should.
No easy fix, apart from using incandescent bulbs, or modificating the wiring scheme.
As you've noticed the idiot light goes to ground through the bulbs on the non-flashing side. The resistance of the small idiot light bulb limits the current flow to less than the bulbs need to light, but still enough to light the idiot light. Unless you fit LED bulbs which need much less current.....
What I did was to take both wires that feed the idiot light, and feed each one through a diode, commoning up the far side of the diodes & taking that to one side of the idiot light & then earth the other side.
Hope that helps.
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Post by cb250g5 on Jun 27, 2013 21:29:46 GMT 1
unfortunately i stripped the clocks for nothing... PIA. I have swapped out the gauge harness, bar switch, and now have a working relay. Still the same. When I tested before I did not have a bulb in the idiot socket (isn't that fitting?)and thats why it worked. If I remove the idiot bulb it works... if I leave it in i have all 4 lights flasking at the same time... any other places to test? ideas? You need the right wattage bulbs in all 4 indicators & the idiot light, for them to work as designed. What have you got fitted?
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Post by cb250g5 on Jun 24, 2013 21:01:40 GMT 1
Have you got the correct wattage bulbs in? The idiot light works through the opposite sides bulbs, so all 4 will light, if, for example, you use LED bulbs.
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Post by cb250g5 on Jun 16, 2013 16:39:44 GMT 1
The speedo isn't quite the same. The R model has the 150MPH speedo - same as a 500. However a 120 MPH one from a F2 /N2 works just fine. I had a 130 MPH one from an FZR on one of mine, but you need to take care with the angle of entry for the speedo cable, if straight down that's fine, but you don't want a side entry one.
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Post by cb250g5 on Jun 15, 2013 11:04:17 GMT 1
I didn't keep it long enough to find out. I believe it's quite easy though.
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Post by cb250g5 on Jun 15, 2013 9:39:14 GMT 1
Hi, Just in the process of buying a Ducati 900SS. I know absolutely nothing about them. Anyone here had one ? It's a 2000 model. Regards Dusty I had a '99 750SS, new, parallel import. Not as quick as you might hope for, the riding position was cripplingly uncomfortable & it had a turning circle like a supertanker. I didn't keep it too long.......
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Post by cb250g5 on Jun 9, 2013 20:54:44 GMT 1
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Post by cb250g5 on Jun 9, 2013 19:54:14 GMT 1
Would anyone know what the thread size of the PWK Throttle stop screws are?
Mine are nylon & slightly manky, so thought I'd turn up some brass ones.
If I give it a go, would anyone else need any?
TIA
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Post by cb250g5 on Jun 7, 2013 21:28:15 GMT 1
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Post by cb250g5 on Jun 4, 2013 20:35:38 GMT 1
Thanks for the help and advise guys. Im just going to go for buying the cheaper second hand one that you gave the link for on ebay and see how it goes from there. Hopefully with a working rectifier I will have the engine sparking away shortly. Glad I found this forum. It makes things much easier. Cheers Baz. There is no connection between the rectifier & sparks. These bikes have self generating ignition. You do not need a battery or rectifier for a spark. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
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Post by cb250g5 on May 29, 2013 21:31:32 GMT 1
yes, mine is. Some reckon it's metric, but a standard landrover imperial one fits fine.
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Post by cb250g5 on May 27, 2013 21:44:58 GMT 1
fuses, battery etc have no connection to getting the bike running.
The ignition system is entirely self generating.
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Post by cb250g5 on May 27, 2013 18:53:00 GMT 1
Has to be the slowest project I've ever done, but passed MOT on Saturday Just needs running in now.
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Post by cb250g5 on May 22, 2013 19:52:04 GMT 1
Nope - think I got them from someone on here - the chokes fit the PWKs
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Post by cb250g5 on May 21, 2013 20:09:40 GMT 1
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Post by cb250g5 on May 19, 2013 18:29:49 GMT 1
I met the owner at the Chundersprint some years back - seems like a good guy.
However the website is hopeless, they list tons of stuff that they haven't actually got in stock.
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Post by cb250g5 on May 14, 2013 20:45:44 GMT 1
Use 2 hands to push the cap down against the spring, use a socket or pipe or something that fits over the valve.
Use your 3rd & 4th hands to pry out the circlip
Gently release the cap, swear a lot & spend the next 30 minutes looking for the bits that have shot off into the recesses of the garage somewhere.
In my experience anyway.
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Post by cb250g5 on May 12, 2013 18:47:29 GMT 1
No
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Post by cb250g5 on May 11, 2013 14:57:35 GMT 1
As do I, and an 8.5mm bit. Let me know if you want a borrow. Before Sun PM, when I'm off again.
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Post by cb250g5 on May 9, 2013 7:43:18 GMT 1
A re-stamped number is a stolen engine - and therefore a stolen bike - in my eyes. Stolen from someone like us and probably still terribly missed. Do you have proof of this? My engine was restamped by the previous owner cos he couldn't be bothered to change the log book. I saw the doner bike - or are you suggesting he stole that as well? He probably thought it would improve the value, but he didn't do a good enough job.
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Post by cb250g5 on May 8, 2013 21:49:40 GMT 1
And hope you aren't stopped and checked by a transport cop. (not much chance of that though as there aren't many left.) Why? Engine numbers aren't a legal requirement. You can stamp whatever you like on there. Quite legal to have nothing at all, like my FZR250 - bikes under 250 have no numbers in Japan. So long as you don't try & pass it off as original, what's the problem? It'll ride the same, regardless of what's stamped on the cases.
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Post by cb250g5 on May 8, 2013 20:14:08 GMT 1
One of my bikes is like that - I don't see the problem personally.
Just ensure you don't pay any matching number premium, then buy it, ride it & enjoy it.
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Post by cb250g5 on May 7, 2013 20:24:11 GMT 1
This isn't the answer to your problem, but remember you've gone from a set of Mick Abbey barrels to ?? presumably standard, so when you sort the issue, you may well have to revisit the jetting.
It ran like you describe when I first rode it. I ended up junking the airbox & running foam filters, it was the only way I could get it to run right.
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Post by cb250g5 on May 7, 2013 20:15:27 GMT 1
90% sure I've got one.
Not back home until Saturday - if you haven't sorted it by then, I'll check for you.
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Post by cb250g5 on Apr 22, 2013 18:29:03 GMT 1
I'm assuming this is my old bike. Exhaust studs / bolts look familiar anyway.
They were off 3 or 4 years back, so I reckon they will come off again. It's all stainless & apparently well lubricated.
I *think* I filed the valve ends flat, took a bit off the connector block & used a bit of copper shim to get it all bolted up tight & in line at the time.
Or maybe that was my current engine - not sure. Something has worn again if you can turn the centre block without both of the valves moving. This really is a crappy design from Mr Yamaha.
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Post by cb250g5 on Apr 9, 2013 20:52:44 GMT 1
FZR250 2KR 320MM disk. Just 1 is enough, with an R6 caliper
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Post by cb250g5 on Mar 29, 2013 16:17:19 GMT 1
Are you sure your footpeg hangers are straight. They tend to bend in at the rear if the bike is dropped, even gently, as they only bolt on to the frame at the front.
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Post by cb250g5 on Mar 28, 2013 12:00:12 GMT 1
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Post by cb250g5 on Mar 25, 2013 16:01:07 GMT 1
Is it just the bolt hole pattern you need non-standard?
If so, I got Gibsons to supply me some end cans without drilling & tapping them & I did my own, to suit the non-standard PCD on my Spex exhausts
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Post by cb250g5 on Mar 13, 2013 11:54:56 GMT 1
Would love to go Last time i went Ian Hislop won on the white Norton Now that I would love to see. I think you mean Steve Hislop. Ian is the private eye guy on "have I got news for you", love to see him on the rotary Norton.....
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