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Post by looey on Sept 26, 2019 18:33:36 GMT 1
yes. same as the dt id guess. i have both types So what's the visual difference ?, do they have a different code on the glass ?.
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Post by looey on Sept 26, 2019 10:06:42 GMT 1
Anyone know how to differentiate between a UK Headlight Glass and Import on an RD125LC ?
Do they have different numbers on the glass ?.
Cheers
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Post by looey on Sept 24, 2019 18:42:24 GMT 1
Yeah I wasn't meaning the screen (worthless not being genuine), I was meaning the brand new still in it's original wrapping c**kpit fairing with all it's trimmings
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Post by looey on Sept 24, 2019 17:49:33 GMT 1
In my experience, the abs fairings are genuine. never seen an aftermarket abs one but am willing to be corrected and while some aftermarket screens match the holes I have found they are a poor fit around the bottom corners of the screen to the fairing. ive got a 10w screen that the writing has been cleaned off Yeah thanks Chef, that makes sense. I'm pretty sure I have an all genuine fairing with rubber trim, boomerang brackets, rubber above and foam around the headlight area but possibly a pattern light smoked screen. It fits pretty well but not quite as nice a fit around one lower corner as the other. What's it worth you reckon ?, hard to price as they don't come up too often brand new genuine anymore.
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Post by looey on Sept 24, 2019 16:08:55 GMT 1
Anyone know if there is a way to tell for sure if an RD125LC c**kpit Fairing and Screen are genuine ?.
I personally have never seen a pattern fairing made of smooth ABS all around with all the lugs nicely integrated, just fibreglass ones where the lugs are like glued on ?.
And I've got a screen that I thought was genuine but it's clear and doesn't have 10W written on it anywhere. It does however fit the holes in the c**kpit fairing perfectly, which I thought pattern screens didn't ?.
Cheers
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Post by looey on Sept 23, 2019 17:23:33 GMT 1
Not sure exactly what you've got/need but I've got a brand new 10W loom (10W-82590-30) I'm just about to list on evil-bay.
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Post by looey on Sept 16, 2019 15:12:55 GMT 1
Unless you've done absolutely no research or had your head in a bucket for many years, you would never buy a petrol tank from India
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Post by looey on Sept 9, 2019 10:55:54 GMT 1
What exact model TZR is it ?
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Post by looey on Sept 5, 2019 12:39:17 GMT 1
Maybe that rating will suffice on all the circuits to get you home if the original fuse went due to fatigue rather than a circuit fault ?.
??
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Rye
Aug 2, 2019 15:59:49 GMT 1
Post by looey on Aug 2, 2019 15:59:49 GMT 1
Problem is I dont travel north. They speak funny and drink weird beer🤔😁👍 Only in Birmingham 😂😂 I resemble that remark, there's nothing "only" about visiting Birmingham
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Post by looey on Aug 1, 2019 20:11:19 GMT 1
There's a fairly big 2-stroke group staying at Glen Wyllin in Kirk Michael for the majority of the 2 weeks. We live there now (Ramsey), so will deffo be there lol. Should maybe try and arrange for everyone to meet up at some point (weather dependant ) am I the big ? or is that salad dodger?
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Post by looey on Jul 31, 2019 18:05:00 GMT 1
With the old Plastikote, you either needed to get them cured quickly as Shaun has said, or leave them for a couple of weeks to cure naturally.
Once they've cured, you can T-cut and polish to your desired shine.
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Post by looey on Jul 30, 2019 13:00:22 GMT 1
There's a fairly big 2-stroke group staying at Glen Wyllin in Kirk Michael for the majority of the 2 weeks. We live there now (Ramsey), so will deffo be there lol. Should maybe try and arrange for everyone to meet up at some point (weather dependant )
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Post by looey on Jul 30, 2019 12:57:20 GMT 1
Nice result, if only they were all that easy
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Post by looey on Jul 27, 2019 10:04:09 GMT 1
its the fuse box ,look at the small clamps that hold the fuses I'd say don't rule that out of course but how would that relate to the ignition switch/ engine not turning off problem?? I replaced the fuse box on mine due to finding one broken/bodged repair by a previous owner, every thing worked fine but I wasn't happy with the bodge. There are two different 'new' replacement boxes I've found, one had non flexible contact holders which clamped the what turned out to be plastic fuses way too tight, they fell apart whilst trying to remove them. The other style has springy fuse holders just like Yamaha had intended, fine for another 30 years use I hope. On my 350LC (not being period correct), I replaced the entire fusebox with individual modern sprung-loaded in-line fuse holders, problems gone forever
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Post by looey on Jul 27, 2019 8:03:12 GMT 1
What do you mean "not in the spirit of the thread" ?, it's "Roast my bike! (as in slate it) ??. And the rules are NO COMPLIMENTS, "a very nice bike in my mind", As I said, not in the spirit of this thread to compliment?. Jon Oh yeah, I miss-read that, sorry lol
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Post by looey on Jul 26, 2019 20:53:36 GMT 1
I think the ignition relies on earthing out to stop. Loose the wrong earth and it won't stop. Sure someone will be along with more knowledge on the subject
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Post by looey on Jul 26, 2019 20:51:33 GMT 1
Just handlebars, RD350 side panel decal angles and front discs for me (not a lot !!!)
Oh and Clutch Cable routing lol
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Post by looey on Jul 26, 2019 20:49:54 GMT 1
andrewm, I sense a recurring theme in the way you are criticising everyone's seat. Looey, agree the clutch cable looks a bit untidy but too many people route it out of sight then complain of a heavy/grabby clutch action. I think the recurring seat thing is an ongoing joke on the Giuliari seat theme, nothing to do with your bike . And I think the clutch cable routing was Rich ?, I never said a word
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Post by looey on Jul 26, 2019 20:30:25 GMT 1
I have a very similar LC/TZR hybrid, and as this thread is inviting negative comments, my only one would be why not adapt the front end to fit a more aethetically pleasing mudguard? Cable ties on belly pan are a bit of a bodge. Not in the spirit of this thread, a very nice bike in my mind. Jon What do you mean "not in the spirit of the thread" ?, it's "Roast my bike! (as in slate it) ??. And the rules are NO COMPLIMENTS, "a very nice bike in my mind",
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Post by looey on Jul 26, 2019 18:07:19 GMT 1
Sounds like you've lost an earth somewhere, could be in the ignition switch, could be anywhere.
I've had several bikes, one an X7, where if you disconnect a certain earth, the bike won't stop running when you turn the ignition off.
It was a way of stealing (not by me obviously) some 2-strokes in the 70s & 80's, side panel off, disconnect an earth lead, then they would start and run !!!
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Post by looey on Jul 26, 2019 16:50:55 GMT 1
I'm not up to speed with 125LC's after the 12A/10W models but I have here a complete Flywheel and Stator assembly that I was told came from a running bike.
On the rear of the Stator it's stamped 1GU and on the Flywheel F1GM 512
Any ideas ?
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Post by looey on Jul 26, 2019 15:54:30 GMT 1
Ok looks like it’s been sat on by a drunk elephant is that really the stance? Dinner plate for a disc with a cheap m&p accessories front mudguard, angle iron for a rear brake torque arm, slowest colour scheme, looks like it was built by someone with zero zilch nada imagination like some o level art student thought I know how to improve one of these, I actually thought it looked like a tamiya model kit but built badly. That better loey? I think you're getting personal now, rather than just slating the bike
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Post by looey on Jul 26, 2019 15:27:54 GMT 1
I don't think this is working, more positive comments than negative lol
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Post by looey on Jul 26, 2019 14:50:25 GMT 1
I like it, a few little personal touches that if you wished could be put back to standard if required. It's negative comments only, positive are banned lol
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Post by looey on Jul 26, 2019 14:49:36 GMT 1
Front muddy looks wrong 350 decal on side panels too low ? Exhausts look a bit droopy/low at the rear ? Is the Belly pan held on with cable ties ? Needs a Gilly seat lol I would say some very nice things but the rules won't allow
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Post by looey on Jul 24, 2019 15:50:15 GMT 1
I think it will need to be separate threads or it will be carnage lol
Probably need a small text passage at the beginning of each post to explain what the crack is (possibly copy and paste the same text from the top of first or previous one) ?.
When each battering is looking done, we start the next bike/thread?.
Maybe have a rule of no positive comments either ?, ha ha ha
icarus001, do you wonna start a thread for yours ?.
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Post by looey on Jul 24, 2019 11:58:49 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Jul 23, 2019 12:45:37 GMT 1
Yep, I'd loose the seat and the LC logos on the side panels, and run the front brake lines the correct side of the front forks.
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Post by looey on Jul 22, 2019 12:14:32 GMT 1
My YPVS engined 4L0 Hybrid has been cracking its downpipes (normally on the welds) every 3-400 miles. The engine has been completely rebuilt, all new engine mount bushes fitted in the casings, tie bars fitted with all new bushes, rubber mounts on the rear hangers, plus the headers are a slide on fitment held up with springs. I'm now looking at getting some new pipes made, as mine are very thin mild steel (Spex I think) and can only assume that the problem is the steel is too thin and fragile.
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