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Post by muttsnuts on Jan 6, 2024 18:40:11 GMT 1
Paul, you are right, the stock crank isn't welded, its just the stroker cranks are, probably thought they where as I mainly use/fit stroker cranks !
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Post by muttsnuts on Jan 6, 2024 18:38:42 GMT 1
yep, O rings hold the bearings perfectly in place and don't spin, they will only spin if you sieze the crank, even with pins that will happen and then tear the crap out of your crank cases, with the O rings, it just trashes the O rings !
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Post by muttsnuts on Jan 5, 2024 14:34:47 GMT 1
yes, any idea what size you going upto ? Think they are on 1mm over just now 1 looks fresh but no idea if it has simply been honed, other has surface rust ๐ Will obviously need measured but hoping to be 1.5 max ๐ฐ Steve ok, I can sort that for you, might have the right size pistons on the shelf, if not I'll get some in
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Post by muttsnuts on Jan 5, 2024 14:16:46 GMT 1
Thought about that one too much ๐someone bought it this morning. Deffo a vj23 rear swinger and maybe the front end too ๐ณ Shame you snooze you loose ๐ฉ yeah, I had to sit on my hands, especially since its so close ! I have too many projects as it is
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Post by muttsnuts on Jan 5, 2024 14:15:53 GMT 1
On another note, can you sort a rebore on a pair of LC cylinders for me ๐ Steve yes, any idea what size you going upto ?
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Post by muttsnuts on Jan 5, 2024 11:30:37 GMT 1
make the most of it, we aren't getting any younger, we are born dying ...............I tell my kids that, they just give me a sideways look ! I retired in 2007, then it all got very odd and now I am running my own business and working silly hours, but dropped down to 5 days a week in Sept last year and slowing reducing my hours, once my wife drops another day from her work then I'll be dropping another day I am 60 next, been drawing my pension for the last 4yrs and it makes life easier, the bike business means I get to do what I love (most of the time anyway), but costs have risen massively recently and now I have to clear ยฃ29k/yr before I make any money, so I am working to pay others, so that is playing a large part in my thinking and planning........... I'll always do bikes and stuff, just depends if its as a full time business, or just going back to being a hobby..........
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Post by muttsnuts on Jan 5, 2024 11:18:40 GMT 1
its not just the thickness but the modulus of the carbon material, even which way the weave goes affects the stiffness and how they work, its not a straight forward thing, you'd be as well just buying some carbon reeds if that's what you want as it won't work out much more expensive than buying carbon sheet and then cutting your own, plus then testing it all
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Post by muttsnuts on Jan 5, 2024 11:15:12 GMT 1
yes I know Barry, seen it myself, got all the bits to finish it including a 443cc 100+bhp) engine ready to fit and all its ancillaries, but I've got so many other projects on the plus everybodies jobs I don't see how I will find time to do it - its a good buy, thinking about popping over to have a look at it
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Post by muttsnuts on Jan 4, 2024 19:55:42 GMT 1
I do stock Hotrod cranks at ยฃ348 inc vat, but the postage to Oz will kill ya, so getting it from the states is probably your best bet
One thing to note, the Hotrod cranks are welded as well
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 29, 2023 21:16:03 GMT 1
These are the test ones I made. I could make YPVS ones too if required. I would need to take a YPVS one apart and make some measurements as the pucks may be slightly thinner to allow for the gasket being underneath them. This is an equivalent of Mylar-A, as that is not available from my supplier. The material is called PMX500. It is classed as a polyester film. I will put some offcuts in my gearbox oil to see if it gets affected. Info from supplier :- Excellent mechanical strength and dimensional stability Does not become brittle with age under normal conditions Good resistance to moisture and most chemicals Can withstand temperatures of -70C to +150C Rob, I've got a complete YPVS one in the workshop, I can post you it if you want to copy, the clutch puks are all the same in ticjkness, just the diameters differ between certain clutches
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 29, 2023 21:12:33 GMT 1
Any Dyno charts for the performance pipes for the 250/350 LC and also for the ypvs?? yes loads, I am certain I've posted various ones on here over the years, but you'll need to search for them, plus it depends if you want it for stock, tuned, slightly modifed or highly modified
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 29, 2023 21:09:34 GMT 1
Hi Rob, generally on the shelf or within a couple of days from order, you can get 250/350LC mid range pipes - in mild steel with FIXED ally end can - S/S pipes are normally order only 250/350LC F2 performance pipe - in mild steel with detachable ally end cans 350 YPVS F2 performance pipe - in mild steel with detachable ally end cans Hope that helps Do you get many requests for a 250cc specific set of pipes. not too often, but I have thought about seeing how much better I can make the mid range ones for 250's specifically, problem as always is time with me, too many things on the go and also having to run a business means my "free/play" time is very limited
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 29, 2023 21:07:21 GMT 1
Can you confirm the attached-can mid range pipes are just for LCs and not suitable for YPVS? correct Rob
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 28, 2023 19:28:54 GMT 1
was a common thing back with the proddy racer boys and still a good mod to do if you have the parts, certainly doesn't harm the LC crank, had a good few engines in like this over the years, not really noticed any difference in performance etc
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 28, 2023 19:24:16 GMT 1
Dusty, Rob has made a prototype which I've fitted to a clutch and its all good, the only thing I haven't done yet is test it in anger, but from what I've seen I reckon it will all be good, so hudtm60 contact Rob on here and see if he will sort you one out
HTH
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 28, 2023 19:15:59 GMT 1
Hi Rob,
generally on the shelf or within a couple of days from order, you can get
250/350LC mid range pipes - in mild steel with FIXED ally end can - S/S pipes are normally order only 250/350LC F2 performance pipe - in mild steel with detachable ally end cans 350 YPVS F2 performance pipe - in mild steel with detachable ally end cans
Hope that helps
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 27, 2023 20:41:45 GMT 1
twin cranks are whole lot harder than a single, as Zed has said, you need a pin jig, which holds the big end pins at 180 degrees, that sorts out getting the inners aligned if the inner webs are seperate to the centre pin (depends on the crank etc), the outers are more tricky, but most use a jig again to set them at exactly (or as near as you can) to be true to the inner web you are pressing it onto, some degree of hitting it with a mallet afterwards to true it within spec is generally required, but does depend how good your jig is
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 27, 2023 20:15:22 GMT 1
yes you are right Gunny, I developed and tested those pipes on behalf of Tyga, while I was working on them I even put a poll up on this forum to gauge peoples thoughts on certain designs etc including "cross over" front pipes, some may remember it, well that info was feed back to Tyga who ended up going with the crossover front pipes, which is why they have them now - all thanks to members on this forum The pipes where designed as a more "all round" pipe, not too peaky and not totally useless at low rpm, they did want a mid range pipe, but since I had already developed that one I wasn't prepared at the time to share that design with them, plus I was already working with Jim at Alonze custom with the bulk of my pipes etc, and still do to this day, Jim makes all of my pipes once the designs are tested and finalised He generally keeps a couple of pre-made sets on the shelf so you can literally get them the next day HTH Something that does intrigue me is the area under the the BHP line of the dyno graph. Whether it is mid range or peak performance would the best performing pipe be the one with the biggest area? Have you got any thoughts on this? its a good point, but again how do you measure that area?, you could have 2 very different graphs but have the same area power wise, but in very different places, one graph might make power from 2k to 8.5k with huge bottom end, so a big fat curve up front, another curve could make power from 2k to 11k, but the graph doesn't actually really start doing anything until 7k onwards, so if you overlad the graphs it would look like a camel with 2 humps as the power delivery starts and ends in very different places, but they both cover the same area under the curve The true measure (in my opinion) is by a customers feedback, if you manage to give them a pipe that gives them what they wanted then I am generally happy that I've done my job well HTH
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 26, 2023 19:50:46 GMT 1
measure the bores, piston skirt to bore clearance and the ring gaps, only then will you know if they are worn, just looking at them won't tell you anything about wear, be sure to check the bores mid of the ports as that is where they wear the most
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 26, 2023 18:58:25 GMT 1
if it is standing unstarted for any period of time then as Steve says, put the fuel tap on prime for 30 seconds, then try it
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 26, 2023 18:56:17 GMT 1
given they are my design, then yes, plenty of experience !
Depending on state of tune then you might need to up jet, only true way to know is to have it checked/setup on a dyno, but if unsure, go up 2 sizes to be safe and start from there
HTH
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 26, 2023 18:54:18 GMT 1
will be stator, either pickup (most likely with your symptoms) or low and high side windings
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 26, 2023 18:53:03 GMT 1
Called mutts nuts for a reason and it isnโt because he is small bald and swings from the back end of a pit bull. ๐ although parts of that statement are true !!
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 26, 2023 16:48:35 GMT 1
yes you are right Gunny, I developed and tested those pipes on behalf of Tyga, while I was working on them I even put a poll up on this forum to gauge peoples thoughts on certain designs etc including "cross over" front pipes, some may remember it, well that info was feed back to Tyga who ended up going with the crossover front pipes, which is why they have them now - all thanks to members on this forum The pipes where designed as a more "all round" pipe, not too peaky and not totally useless at low rpm, they did want a mid range pipe, but since I had already developed that one I wasn't prepared at the time to share that design with them, plus I was already working with Jim at Alonze custom with the bulk of my pipes etc, and still do to this day, Jim makes all of my pipes once the designs are tested and finalised He generally keeps a couple of pre-made sets on the shelf so you can literally get them the next day HTH
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 26, 2023 16:43:30 GMT 1
The TSA pipes are one of the best performing pipes, but availability is very limited. The Alonze pipes are are good pipe at a reasonable price and with excellent availability. interesting comment Rob, I've tested (as you know) all manner of pipes and can say with 100% certainty that TSA's don't perform any better than the ones I have designed and developed over the years and as yet, nobody has made a pipe that out performs the mid range pipe I designed, that's not to say that Kenny doesn't design and make good pipes because he does. The mid range pipes where designed specifically for mid range and that is what they do, the key thing is to decide exactly what you want from the bike/pipe and then go from there. you can't have everything, so "best performing" comes down to what you want, best BHP doesn't mean best pipe, it means best BHP, best mid range means best mid range, but then you also have to decide what you classs as mid range, I work with the stock recommended max rev's of an engine and then determine the "mid range" and try for around 2500rpm to 3000rpm of useable power in that range e.g 5500rpm to 8500rpm etc I try and design pipes to give what customers ask me for, hence why I have over 20 different test pipes available for trying on different bikes/engines etc, that way customers can see what they are getting before they spend their hard earned money, I probably get well over a dozen customers a year who have had pipes made by other people/companies at great cost only to find out they didn't get what they asked for, its always surpising to see peoples faces when I fit a set of pipes that do what they wanted in the first place compared to what they had bought As with anything, its all about personal choice and I respect that
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 20, 2023 21:21:05 GMT 1
have you measured the bores to make sure its standard, had some engines in with cheap pistons fitted that didn't have an oversize stamped on the pistons, customer was a little surprised when I measured them and declared they where 1.25mm O/S !
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 20, 2023 20:06:16 GMT 1
clutch now fully assembled with final piece of the puzzle sorted, it all fits under a stock cover as well, so brucy bonus
I've only got a couple of prototypes at the moment, so in the new year I need to find somebody to make the hubs for me, the rest I can get or make in house
Final proof of the pudding is to actually have it tested on a powerful engine and of course to check the clutch lever weight/heaviness when operated
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 15, 2023 20:58:53 GMT 1
quick update on this
I've been sorting out retro fitting the 8 plate kit to a stock set of primary gears, I've assembled it on an engine today and its all looking good, I've one more small issue to solve and then I'll be able to sort out getting a few made and for sale, the prototypes I have will be used for testing etc.
I've yet to confirm for sure, but I am pretty sure it will all fit under a stock clutch cover with no modifications as well
The clutch kit will comprise of the following components;
1 x 8 plate basket kit (8 plate basket, cush rubbers, backing plate, fixing screws) 1 x 8 Plate hub 8 x clutch friction plates (EBC) 7 x clutch steels (EBC) 6 x clutch springs (EBC) 1 x .....the fix I've got to sort out !
Price wise its hard to say as the 8 plate hubs are going to be the killer part as I'll need to find somebody who can make them at sensible money
The straight cut primaries are still progressing, but had some delays in the gear cutting department as the compnay doing it are very busy......but they are progressing
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Post by muttsnuts on Dec 10, 2023 17:04:45 GMT 1
current 421 Athena builds I am doing are designed/targetting good bottom and mid range, peaking around the 8500 to 9000rpm so not killing the crank and pushing mid to high 80's, if I think on I can dig out some dyno charts if you are interested, if you look at Tez's recently finished build, his has my latest pipes and setup on it and he loves it --> rdlccrazy.proboards.com/thread/60464/rd392lc-finished?page=1&scrollTo=604757421 Athena Graph 392cc Athena Graph
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Post by muttsnuts on Nov 23, 2023 20:29:31 GMT 1
I've recently been asked to do a few of these for people, so eventually got my finger out and sourced a company that can supply me the rear sprocket blanks, since I've done a few sets now, I thought I'd ask on here if there is any interest, or indeed if anybody wants some doing - since I've a few to do
At the moment I can supply the front and rear sprocket in 520 chain format and I can source pretty much most types of chain, so that can be speicified by the customer, the one thing I've not sorted out as such is the new spacer, I can make some out of S/S but that will be a little soft I suspect, so ideally I need to get some hardened spacers made, this I can get done but it might take a little while to sort
Currently I can do the front and rear sprockets for around ยฃ60 inc vat, the price might come down a bit if I have lots of rear sprockets to machine as that is where the cost lies in the time it takes to machine each one
I can do 15, 16 and 17T fronts and pretty much any size 35T up to 50T rears, although most just want a 16/39 or a 17/39 combo but I can vary it if required
Any interest, just send me a message and I'll get it sorted for you
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