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Post by jon on Aug 4, 2022 13:28:13 GMT 1
jonI found long stroke pistons. But just for now in only found pistons with 0.25 increments at MB-Design. Have only found Wiseco or Wossner pistons with 0.50 increments. As I said before they are not “long stroke” pistons, they are “long rod” pistons. They were always only ever available in 0.5mm sizes. It’s only MBD that’s started offering 0.25mm sizes. When I bought mine off him he only did 0.5mm increments. Would have got away from STD to 0.75mm over on badly worn cylinders, but had to up it to 1mm over. Never mind a true 385cc. Jon
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Post by jon on Aug 4, 2022 7:20:15 GMT 1
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Post by jon on Aug 3, 2022 22:52:38 GMT 1
Have the second batch of decent LC tanks dried up?
If so will there be more?
Jon
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Post by jon on Aug 3, 2022 21:53:14 GMT 1
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Post by jon on Aug 3, 2022 21:16:45 GMT 1
I made adapters that tapered from one diameter to the other as I thought the change in diameter between my Allspeeds and 350 cylinders was too great. They are 1980 cylinders so maybe smaller outlet?
Jon
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Post by jon on Aug 3, 2022 20:58:24 GMT 1
I would have thought a word with either manufacturer. Surely the can make the appropriate LC or YPVS pipe body, and just weld the hangers on in the appropriate place too?
Jon
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Post by jon on Aug 3, 2022 20:29:10 GMT 1
There not cheap at over £50 posted, but I doubt many would be able to tell the difference unless they knew what the one thing was that differs from OEM.
Jon
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Post by jon on Aug 3, 2022 19:32:47 GMT 1
The second statement is not really clear.
The correct terminology for ‘offset axis’ in this case is crown height.
The +4 stroke has nothing to do with this directly. It is the conrod length. Standard is 110mm. Some +4 cranks run 115mm conrods. Therefore some special pistons are available with a crown height of 23mm instead of 28mm. This corrects the height. The longer rods take some of the side loading off the piston, as it oscillates at a narrower maximum angle.
Jon
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Post by jon on Aug 3, 2022 19:23:45 GMT 1
I'm just looking around for some used after market exhausts for my F2. Am I right in thinking LC pipes will fit a Ypvs if I slot the bracket? Would the tuning be different? Yes, and yes. Ypvs pipes favour higher revs than the LC pipes. I’m pretty sure from memory Tony at Gibson’s says he only makes the 500 RPM more on a YPVS? Jon
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Post by jon on Aug 3, 2022 18:16:29 GMT 1
Bonjour à tous et excusez-moi s'il vous plait, je ne parle pas anglais. L'alignement du pignon de sortie de boîte avec l'articulation du bras oscillant ne me semble pas une bonne solution. Veuillez-voir ici : Effet de chaîne Pour les bielles + 4mm il est important de choisir des pistons spéciaux avec axe décalé pour supprimer l'appui du piston sur le cylindre lors des mouvements de montée et de descente.
Google translation
Hello everyone and please excuse me, I don't speak English.
Aligning the gearbox output sprocket with the swingarm joint doesn't seem like a good solution to me.
Please see here: effet de chaîne For connecting rods + 4mm it is important to choose special pistons with offset axis to eliminate the support of the piston on the cylinder during up and down movements.
I fail to see how both of those statements are related in any way? Jon
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Post by jon on Aug 3, 2022 18:13:14 GMT 1
Bar to weld on.
He has batches of them made. Looks OEM.
Jon
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Post by jon on Aug 3, 2022 17:50:20 GMT 1
I bought a reproduction from Paul Beaumont. It’s very close to original. Probably over the top and a 14mm bar would have done as you can’t see the difference once the indicators are fitted.
Jon
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Post by jon on Aug 3, 2022 13:31:55 GMT 1
Not in any way dismissing the achievement (as it is quite some), but can a bike frame actually handle that sort of power and delivery ridden on the road? I’m not sure I’d have the bottle?
I can understand the big bore banshee stuff having more weight and in some cases extended wheelbase or even wheely bars.
This is one case where an RGV arm in an LC would be of benefit being longer.
Jon
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Post by jon on Aug 2, 2022 19:52:25 GMT 1
Nice project. I must say though that unless its the angle of the pics the motor and drive sprocket looks like it would be better positioned a little lower for the chain run to reduce squat under load and canted forward so that the case joint is parallel with lower rails.. I totally agree. Also if bespoke pipes are made (which I’m sure it will need) to this engine position, they may be scrap if the engine is moved. Jon
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Post by jon on Aug 1, 2022 18:32:23 GMT 1
My mate saw a bike that has stuck in his mind for years. It was a marsbar LC with TZR wheels in red.
May be worth a think?
Jon
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Post by jon on Jul 31, 2022 13:46:13 GMT 1
It's for the MT350 Jon, oil tank height is limited to max 100mm so the standard sensor is too long, and I'd really like to include a level sensor, particularly as the tank will be about 1 litre capacity rather than the 1.6 litres with the standard tank. Do you think its worth it, as your front wheel will spend most of its time in the air 😁😁😁 I once worked with someone who bought a brand new SV650. He was a hooligan through and through. He spent so much time wheelying it the front cylinder actually seized through lack of oil. Jon
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Post by jon on Jul 31, 2022 9:40:38 GMT 1
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Post by jon on Jul 31, 2022 9:38:07 GMT 1
Rip offs. ARX to sound like ARS. Jon But they say for professional use so they must be OK Any professional would not use them, so I think they should say “not for professional use”. Jon
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Post by jon on Jul 31, 2022 9:03:45 GMT 1
I might not understand the question? But surely just a spacer?
Are you trying to get it to trigger earlier?
Jon
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Post by jon on Jul 31, 2022 9:01:50 GMT 1
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Post by jon on Jul 31, 2022 8:09:21 GMT 1
Papa Lazarou
Jon
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Post by jon on Jul 31, 2022 7:08:24 GMT 1
Rip offs. ARX to sound like ARS. Jon
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Post by jon on Jul 29, 2022 20:32:03 GMT 1
I'm not seeing any castleations on either side of that seal. Nor me, I wonder if the damaged cage bits cut them off "maybe" Don't see a spring either on the 1st pic That is possible Tony. However the castellations mate with the outer ring, and I can’t see from the photo of the bearing anything protruding to the outer ring? Jon
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Selling
Jul 29, 2022 20:04:34 GMT 1
Post by jon on Jul 29, 2022 20:04:34 GMT 1
Unfortunately some buyers are more comfortable with paperwork than reputation.
It’s usually those who can’t see the standard of build/quality themselves, and are relying on that paperwork.
No big deal really unless you are desperate to sell.
Jon
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Post by jon on Jul 29, 2022 19:52:45 GMT 1
Exactly Jon
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Post by jon on Jul 29, 2022 19:41:15 GMT 1
If it was installed with the castellations outwards (be it genuine or not) it would not have allowed enough oil to that bearing. The top end could have been well oiled, but if the path to that bearing was blocked it would have overheated and failed eventually.
Try the seal in the cases and see if you can tell from marks which way it was fitted.
Jon
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Post by jon on Jul 29, 2022 19:21:49 GMT 1
I’ve gone with TSA’s advice and plumbed bang in the middle @ 0.07mm clearance as it’s a Mick Abbey tuned for bottom end to mid range 385cc.
They were on 0.06mm as Wossner suggest.
I feel a bit more relaxed about it.
Jon
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Post by jon on Jul 29, 2022 7:15:35 GMT 1
I've got some new banshee gears, I'll have to look and see what they are like Steve Waiting patiently Steve 😆 Jon
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Post by jon on Jul 28, 2022 23:39:02 GMT 1
Hi all,
We all know Yamaha don’t make a lot of the bits they sell in nice Yamaha boxes or bags.
It’s a consensus that things like LC petrol taps are identical to those sold directly by the manufacturer.
It’s also a common ‘to do’ to use genuine oils seals.
However what about those made by ARS? Surely the same part?
Opinions please.
Jon
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Post by jon on Jul 28, 2022 23:06:57 GMT 1
I would like to say the castellations were on the inside but I can’t say for definite Shame you can’t remember as it might have explained a few things. Is there any way to tell assuming you still have the oil seal. For instance witness marks that line up with the case of three bond for instance? Make sure when you rebuild with the castellations on the inside. Jon
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