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Post by looey on Mar 24, 2019 16:24:17 GMT 1
What one did you see ?.
You'll be lucky to find a perfect bike that needs nothing at all given the nature of the beasts lol
Dusty's no good or not Hybrid enough ?.
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Post by looey on Mar 24, 2019 10:19:51 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Mar 23, 2019 18:42:11 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Jan 5, 2019 17:35:57 GMT 1
Yep, I wouldn't over-complicate things.
If it leaks with a fibre washer and either standard screws or Allen bolts then something else is wrong.
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Post by looey on Jan 3, 2019 22:00:40 GMT 1
I'd try just loosing the metal washer first. You shouldn't be needing to put gasket goo anywhere unless something's not right. I have in the past put a light smear of Hylomar on the tank face where the tap o-ring seals to the tank when the surface wasn't great, which did work   |
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Post by looey on Jan 3, 2019 20:52:52 GMT 1
Interesting thread though, I have 2 LC's both fitted with genuine original Giuliari seats, one is all original, the other has been recovered (before I got it) and the one with the copy cover looks fatter and taller around the rear   . Looks to me like just the different cover can make them look quite different. |
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Post by looey on Jan 3, 2019 20:42:41 GMT 1
Do you have a pic with it on the bike ? Plastic base gets a thumbs up from me over a fibreglass jobbie :-) Which seats have a fibreglass base ?, other copies ?. |
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Post by looey on Jan 3, 2019 19:34:06 GMT 1
Looks fairly good to me for a copy. I'm yet to see a copy or a modified standard seat that isn't instantly distinguishable from an original, particularly at the rear  |
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Post by looey on Jan 2, 2019 23:33:37 GMT 1
Are you sure it's leaking down the threads and not just dripping off the screw heads as they are the lowest point to drip from ?.
A Philips screw or Allen bolt with just a fibre washer is all that's needed to make a good seal.
If you introduce a metal to metal contact point (i.e. with a metal washer to screw head or tap body), the fuel WILL leaks from between those 2 faces.
Good luck sorting it.
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Post by looey on Dec 9, 2018 14:40:11 GMT 1
I've always fit tapers to all my bikes including those that were originally fitted with ball bearing type.
If I can, I usually buy Pyramid Parts tapers and they've always fitted perfectly
Taper bearings have a much larger load surface area, so will last much longer and also take radial and axial loads, so will always perform better.
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Post by looey on Nov 21, 2018 12:07:41 GMT 1
The units with continuous drainage via a hose look the best option ?.
Got to be easier to run a small hose out to somewhere than having to keep emptying a tank ?.
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Post by looey on Nov 19, 2018 19:10:09 GMT 1
Have the same problem with my shed ,my other shed is fine but its real drafty gets loads of air blowing through it and the bikes are totally dry.So ive started drilling vent holes in the 'damp' shed to try and get air circulating through it which should stop the condensation That's deffo the best option if you can't control the temp or have something like a Vac Bag. You will still get the condensation occasionally but it will dry off much quicker. |
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Post by looey on Nov 18, 2018 17:30:59 GMT 1
There was a discussion about it before, basically, unless you can keep the climate around your bike fairly constant, that's what will happen whenever the bike gets cold and the temperatures rises a bit (then the warm air condenses on the cold surfaces)
This is what I wrote before.......
Having moved 17 times in the last 27 years and having had my bikes in all different types of storage, I'd have to disagree with some of the recommendations above, in particular ventilation.
Sure, it's better the have ventilation in a non-insulated, non-heated shed for example but I've learned over time that the only way to stop condensation on your bike (unless in a cocoon or bubble), is to keep the ambient temperature constant around the bike.
Condensation only usually forms when warmer moist air hits colder surfaces, so if you have a cold period of weather and everything metal (particularly the petrol tank up to the fuel level) is freezing cold, and then the weather changes to a milder temperature, the warmer air hits the colder metal surfaces and that's when most of your condensation occurs.
Keep temperature of the area around the bike constant (either cold or warm) and condensation will not occur on the metal parts.
My current garage is not heated but is totally insulated from the outside and I don't get any condensation. But in the scenario I have mentioned above, there are times when it is colder in my garage than it is outside. Keep the doors shut and absolutely no problem, open up the garage door when it is warmer outside, and within a minute of the warmer air coming in to the garage, everything metal is covered in condensation.
So I reckon you have 3 options, bring the bike in the house over winter, keep it in a bubble or cocoon, or stop the temperature fluctuating over short periods in your shed or garage.
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Post by looey on Nov 18, 2018 12:04:45 GMT 1
I think bike prices are a little like property (that me and the misses have been doing for the last 27 years).
When money is tight or the market slow, it's always the cream that still sells easy or still commands a top price, whilst the less desirable stuff will just not shift.
When the market is bad, you try and sell the average house, in an ok location, no chance !. Have one in a highly desirable location and no matter what the market is doing, there will be people queuing up for it.
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Post by looey on Nov 18, 2018 11:33:23 GMT 1
My Hybrid is forever cracking it's exhaust headers  Think mine's a combination of the wafer thin metal on the headers and not quite so much flexibility on the rear set hanger mounts as would be on standard hangers. This winter I will either get the headers strengthened or maybe even get new pipes My engine was completely rebuild 1,000 miles ago and had all new engine mount rubbers at the time. |
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Post by looey on Nov 17, 2018 22:59:41 GMT 1
Never had that problem myself, are you sure that you're not over-tightening them ?.
They don't take too much tightening to seal on the gaskets.
I always use a second set of nuts to lock against the first, then there's no need to over-tighten to keep them from undoing.
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Post by looey on Nov 16, 2018 13:23:56 GMT 1
I gave up with these type of Fuse boxes years ago and the crap type of fuse connection they have.
I got rid of the box all-together and hard-wired 4 modern in-line Sprung loaded fuse holders. Easier to obtain fuses and not had a fuse problem ever since.
If your're going period correct, then your options are limited but you could always fit that type of box and just hard-wire it in to eliminate the bulky connector ?.
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Post by looey on Nov 15, 2018 23:26:11 GMT 1
Yes, always angle grind the old link heads off before pressing them out but........ Last year, I bought a mid-priced riveting tool from a UK seller and when I tried to rivet the soft (hollow) link when fitting a new 530 chain, the soft rivet just chewed the end of the tool up  What I did in the end was fit a small ball bearing to the end of the riveting tool and now it works perfectly on hollow soft links. I also had to modify the part that fits on the rear of the link when riveting the link, as the slot was too deep and it was squashing the plates closer together before making the soft link correctly. So badly made and dangerous it's almost funny |
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Post by looey on Nov 11, 2018 16:38:34 GMT 1
scammers back on e-bayhttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-RD350LC/372498765246?hash=item56baa815be:g:1DAAAOSwDJZb6DRc:rk:18:pf:0 same pictures as before. sorry dont know how to post live link. When you've got the item on the screen, just copy and paste the entire search string from the browser at the very top of the page. They're all being deleted as fast as they are being put on lol |
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Post by looey on Oct 30, 2018 21:02:19 GMT 1
How you've installed it, the fuel will come down the thread and leak out from between the steel washer and bolt head.
Like has been said, loose the steel washer.
I always use a red fibre washer and bolt, never had any leaks.
If you're bolt head is chewing up the washer, use allen bolts
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Post by looey on Oct 29, 2018 14:26:33 GMT 1
The Three Bond is great stuff and easy to clean off with Brake cleaner but it's sticky and slightly awkward to work with in certain situations.
Blue Hylmomar is deffo petrol proof, says so on the packet and I've even used a light smear on a petrol tap to tank seal before with great results.
Ironically the RTV Clear Silicone I've always used on YPVS Head Gaskets (never had a leak) says it's not fuel proof lol
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Post by looey on Oct 27, 2018 12:49:34 GMT 1
If it's any help, this is what I always do, even re-using same genuine head gasket over and over.
Some will disagree using a sealant of any kind, but I do and never had a head gasket leak.
I always a genuine Head Gasket with the thinnest smear possible of RTV clear silicone.
I do the barrel nuts up finger tight (no spanners), then torque the head down (23lb/ft), then tighten the barrel nuts. Then I run it for a couple of mins without any coolant in until the barrels are quite warm (but nowhere near hot), then I let it cool all day or overnight, then re-torque, then fill with coolant.
Works for me.
Good luck
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Post by looey on Oct 21, 2018 10:06:02 GMT 1
Everyone will have their personal opinion/experience but I've used them all as well and never really found any "major" difference.
I've used Tesco mineral 10w/40, Carlube mineral 10w/30, Motul Transoil (10w/30 & 10w/40), Silkolene Light Gear Oil, many GL4's, and many types of 10w/30 & 10w/40 motorcycle engine oil.
My opinion is, that if you have any of the above in your LC gearbox and you have a problem (and there's been no previous contamination with an incorrect oil), then it's not the oil.
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Post by looey on Sept 14, 2018 23:32:53 GMT 1
Most 2-strokes have that temperature that they don't really want to start without choke, but want to choke up the second you you give it choke lol. Doesn't sound like a problem really, give it a couple of kicks without choke, if no joy, pull the choke out and give it 2 or 3 brisk kicks and she'll be alive. Standard 2-stroke character  |
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Post by looey on Sept 14, 2018 21:43:03 GMT 1
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Post by looey on Sept 14, 2018 17:01:32 GMT 1
I've got a Hotrods Crank from Martin in my grey Hybrid. Supposed to be American made rods, flat cage silver coated TZ style big ends and 10 ball outer mains on Clutch and Flywheel sides It's done a few years now, including a few track days and numerous trips to the IOM TT. No probs so far  |
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Post by looey on Sept 14, 2018 16:00:07 GMT 1
I'll have a chat with the others, see how early we can get sorted lol And what route you taking to Mill Hill ?, I hate riding in London  |
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Post by looey on Sept 14, 2018 14:30:49 GMT 1
Good stuff. Just a few of us meeting at Polish war memorial on the A40 at 8.45 am then riding up to mill hill to meet a dozen or so. Feel free to join us. Done it before, it’s a blast 💨💨. Let me know if you fancy it and I can send you my number. Cheers 🍺 Looks like we'll be a bit too late for you guys, so see you there  |
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Post by looey on Sept 13, 2018 11:36:08 GMT 1
Like they announced a few years ago that they were turning off FM radio transmission, then realised that it was totally impractical, cos still 70% of all vehicles on the road don't have DAB radio yet, and even if they do, DAB reception is pretty patchy around the country at best.
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Post by looey on Sept 13, 2018 11:22:16 GMT 1
A few of us will also be there and meeting up in West London (somewhere near J2 of the M40) and riding across.
Where abouts are you meeting at 8:45 ?.
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. Looks to me like just the different cover can make them look quite different.
