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Post by looey on Nov 10, 2016 10:41:46 GMT 1
Yes, good link that Jon  It seems they were fitted to quite a few different Triumphs |
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Post by looey on Nov 9, 2016 16:38:47 GMT 1
Can anyone help me identify for sure exactly what bike/year these calipers are from, so I can order some new seals. They are currently fitted to YPVS F2 forks and to the best of my measuring ability (in a confined space), look to have 83mm (ish) hole centres ? I'm fairly sure they are from a Triumph with the face machined off and Yamaha decals fitted ?. Cheers     |
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Post by looey on Nov 8, 2016 12:14:14 GMT 1
Pretty sure UK TZR and TDR bikes are 22.5 pilot jets. Yeah could be, but 20 or 22.5, just shows you how small the standard Pilot is in the R1-Z  |
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Post by looey on Nov 8, 2016 10:56:08 GMT 1
Thanks for clearing that up, do you know what size pilot jets you have in your bike ? Standard Pilot in the R1-Z is 12.5 I believe, we have 15's fitted. Ours is ok (ish) now, but if I were messing around with them again I would be tempted to try 17.5 or 20.0's If I'm right (someone may be able to confirm), the 28mm 2MA carbs have a 20 pilot standard ?. |
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Post by looey on Nov 7, 2016 23:10:38 GMT 1
Yeah that's correct, no engine number on most Jap market only bikes so I'm led to believe, but deffo not on the R1-Z.
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Post by looey on Nov 7, 2016 22:45:25 GMT 1
Yeah you could be right about parts but never bought anything for ours (other than servicing and front caliper rebuils kits)
Think the engine is pretty much identical to the TZR250 (2MA) but with 26mm carbs instead of TZR's 28mm.
Anyone I know who has tried the 28mm carbs on the R1-Z didn't notice any improvement.
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Post by looey on Nov 7, 2016 22:31:43 GMT 1
Ha ha, yes I can confirm it's Tracey's bike, but she does let me use it on the odd Track Day  Cracking bikes, very light, great handling and monster brakes, never had any trouble with ours. The only thing I know to note is..... being Jap market only, they run very small pilot jets as standard and over here can take a while to start from cold when they have been left for some time (especially in winter), almost like the chokes aren't working (but they are). Ours has larger pilots fitted. Most seem to suffer from it, one seller was even taking his airbox off (only a 1 min job on the R1-Z) to cover the back of the carbs with his hand, then it would start within a few kicks, however long it had been left. Not problem in the summer though, even if left for a few weeks. Other than that, like you say, it's just the usual stuff to look out for on a 20+ year old 2-stroke. Other than the pipes and handlebars obviously, looks like the bar ends and indicators are non-standard ?. Should be a nice bike  |
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Post by looey on Nov 2, 2016 22:48:16 GMT 1
I assume Dichloromethane (DCM) ?.
About £20 for 5L
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Post by looey on Nov 2, 2016 14:12:01 GMT 1
Yeah I've got it all out now, all bar a few stubborn bits right at the bottom, the rest can stay. It usually just comes away in large chucks, so doesn't cause blockages or carb probs. Got 3 litres of Deox-C in the tank now getting shot of the surface rust. Acetone doesn't seem to touch the liner, got a small piece in soak, hasn't touched it in the slightest . |
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Post by looey on Nov 2, 2016 12:11:56 GMT 1
The one red wire in there is usually main battery wire, so is the 20A fuse, the others are all 10A
If you're not sure (and you never know what stupid things people do over the years), just pull the fuses out one at a time to see what stops working.
The 20A fuse should kill everything.
One 10A fuse will stop the high and low beam headlight
One 10A fuse will stop the side lights
One 10A fuse does the indicators and idiot lights (I think)
Something like that anyway, worth spending 2 mins checking for yourself I reckon
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Post by looey on Nov 2, 2016 12:05:58 GMT 1
God knows why it was poured in there in the first place. The tank has minimal surface rust and doesn't leak, looks like it was just poured in there without any prep whatsoever |
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Post by looey on Nov 2, 2016 10:21:01 GMT 1
Anyone know for sure what make/type this liner is ?. Got 90% of it out so far. Just doing an Acetone test to see if it disolves it. It's slightly creamy white and very shiny. Cheers  |
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Post by looey on Nov 2, 2016 8:43:54 GMT 1
Yeah thanks.
I've since found out that the fuse box fitted to this particular bike is a pattern item and although it takes the standard 25mm fuses, it is much more fussy about the fitment because of the way the box is made. Anything other than the correct 25mm fuses are a pain to fit.
I've since found the correct fuses. Think I paid £4.50 incl. delivery for 6 fuses (4x 10A & 2x 20A).
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Post by looey on Oct 30, 2016 10:45:27 GMT 1
F.Y.I
25mm x 6.2mm
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Post by looey on Oct 30, 2016 10:44:16 GMT 1
My advice would be DON'T line any tank unless it's your absolutely last resort to save it. Tank liners are on the whole pretty sh*te, and although a few have had good results, most don't. I have spent many hours removing failed liners (removing another one at the moment), none of which I have installed I should add. Deox-C is great stuff if you just want to de-rust the inside of a tank. I did a post on my first experience with the stuff a little while ago. What I learned was..... keep the solution warm (works much quicker then), agitate it frequently, and if you're going to use the tank as is after, don't rinse it out with water after, just get as much of the solution out as possible, let it dry, then just use. rdlccrazy.proboards.com/thread/34316/tank-de-rusting-deox-experience |
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Post by looey on Oct 29, 2016 14:45:15 GMT 1
I'm not 100% sure the fuse box fitted on the bike takes the standard size fuses for a 4L0, hence why I'm trying to find out what size the correct fuses measure (length & cap diameter).
If I just bought fuses from Norbo they might not fit.
It's not blowing fuses, I'm just not happy with the fitment of the fuses at the moment, so need to replace them.
If anyone could give me accurate dimensions (with verniers or similar), that would be very helpful
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Post by looey on Oct 29, 2016 13:43:36 GMT 1
Can anyone confirm the exact dimensions of the correct fuses for a 4L0 350 ?. I have an LC here that looks like it has a new/replacement fusebox. Some of the fuses in there are 5mm x 20mm and are not a tight fit in the holders. Some are 6mm x 30mm and fit the clasps well but are too long  Looks like 6mm x 20mm would be a good fit but don't look readily available ?? Cheers |
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Post by looey on Oct 28, 2016 17:31:00 GMT 1
Anything special going on ? (2-stroke meet or anything ?). Mid-morning's a bit early......  |
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Post by looey on Oct 28, 2016 16:03:05 GMT 1
Have you looked at/checked/swapped out the reed assembles ?. Often an overlooked item that can cause probs ?.
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Post by looey on Oct 26, 2016 16:14:33 GMT 1
Hey paul , Pv operating as they should , thanks If in doubt that the valves are opening fully (which could/would cause these symptoms), I just disconnect the pulley, peg them in the wide open position and try it. It'll be flat down bottom but will do what it should up top (everything else being ok obviously). I assume by what you're saying, you're 100% sure the valves are opening at the right time. |
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Post by looey on Oct 26, 2016 12:46:28 GMT 1
Don't know if this will help but Mark (Mech73) had problems with his low miles completely standard F2 that was running rich and not revving out. He posted quite a few posts about it (with this one last), might be worth having a read through what he went through and did ?. rdlccrazy.proboards.com/thread/37016/rd350-f2-running-rich |
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Post by looey on Oct 24, 2016 19:17:52 GMT 1
wow 744 dabs for a tank bit rich for me. Idiots  |
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Post by looey on Oct 24, 2016 17:07:40 GMT 1
The easiest way to think about it is, the further up/out the pointed end of the needle is, the more fuel will get past it.
So yes, clip down nearer the point, or further away from the end where the slots are.
Make sense ? lol
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Post by looey on Oct 22, 2016 10:15:00 GMT 1
Put some POR 15 tank liner in from new and before you get it painted maybe It's an option but a slipper slope surely ?  One of the problems with that is, if you get a problem with the liner once it's painted, it not a great scenario Is there a liner product that's proven to stays in now regardless of Ethanol content ?. Every tank I've ever seen that's been lined, it's been "when" not "if" it starts to come out I do know people often don't take enough care with the process (drying between stages in particular) but I've never attempted it myself. |
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Post by looey on Oct 22, 2016 9:11:43 GMT 1
looey new ones just have a spray of oil in them from new . the new 125 and 500 tank i have just this thats all these have the same Mmmmmmmm, yeah maybe but I always thought they had some kind of mild galvanising or some treatment inside, as they look a lot shinier than just bare steel and tanks don't seem to rust inside until after a lot of years when the fuel has started eating them I would've thought untreated steel would start to rust pretty quickly one exposed to the elements ?. I dunno lol |
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Post by looey on Oct 21, 2016 15:15:37 GMT 1
That's great news for a lot of people, well done Norbo Just a thought, what's the interior finish on the steel ?, is it bare steel or has it had some treatment to help prevent rust starting ?. I'm not sure what treatment tanks have from the factory but they certainly have some kind of treatment that gives a shiny resistant finish ?. |
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Post by looey on Oct 8, 2016 18:28:46 GMT 1
Is it worth you putting up a picture of the underneath of the cap to compare it to the caps I have ?.
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Post by looey on Oct 5, 2016 20:03:18 GMT 1
OK, had a look at a few more carbs. The 10W and 12A caps are the same but I only have one 1GU carb body but no top for it , so I can't compare the caps. Like you say, I can see the 1GU body is deffo taller at the slide area. |
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Post by looey on Oct 4, 2016 20:08:58 GMT 1
$700 I don't have any experience with the later carbs, just those fitted to the Mk1 as standard. I have lot's of spares here, when I get a minute I will have a look in the shed, I think I have a bucket full of carbs and parts in there somewhere lol. I'll have a look at some caps, see if I can see any differences. |
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Post by looey on Oct 4, 2016 10:12:54 GMT 1
Ok,
Measured (with verniers) 2 slides from 2 different 10W carbs and they both measure 41.29mm at the max point and 39mm at the rear cut-out point.
With no cables to interfere, but the slide fitted to the carb with spring etc. and the top screwed on tight, the slide can be pushed up, so that the rear cut-out can be pushed up and beyond the carb opening.
Are you sure nothing is interfering with the slide (cable etc.) ?.
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