cnkxu1
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Post by cnkxu1 on Jul 6, 2021 11:08:13 GMT 1
And now I look at it and think they are not the carbies I cleaned up unless they have weathered that badly in a couple of months. What the?
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jul 6, 2021 12:07:13 GMT 1
Some good progress, its great to see another one coming back to life.
I agree with the comments re the oil pipes and clips, they both still available from Yamaha and not expensive for the peace of mind.
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Post by stirling11 on Jul 6, 2021 21:41:33 GMT 1
Tried the copper wire but resorted to the coat hanger wire to pack out the exhaust flange.  Like most people I had the loose fitting of the headers, then I read about the coat hanger wire here I tried it, however I still has issues with the seal and had issues getting the wire into a good circle In the end I used braided stainless wire as it formed a perfect circle when it was put into the flange recess, the hardest part was getting the length correct I still could not get a seal and had blow by on the right hand side mainly on the RHS, I ended up using 2mm on the left and 4mm on the right It was more successful that way with less blow by, never the less it was still there and I'd tightened up the flange nuts as tight as I dared Looking at the issue I thought the oval gasket was in fact creating the effect of pushing the oval flange back off the copper seals and the spacing wire, which both were new, I actually cut an old copper seal from top to bottom and tried using the layers to build up the thickness with no joy So I left off the oval gasket and used some very high (300C) gasket goo instead and it hasn't leaked since Perhaps if I'd used a double wrap of the wire it may have helped, as it's fixed now I'm not overly worried, my Yamaha mechanic mate told me a few of the exhausts leaked even from new See how you go as it may transpire a larger diameter wire could be required |
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Post by chrisg on Jul 11, 2021 15:36:27 GMT 1
That's exactly what I did. Stuck them in place on the cylinders with exhaust cement and then fitted exhaust.
My bike has some big washers fitted in the recess, I put a bit of cements on those as well, just to ensure gas tight.
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cnkxu1
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Post by cnkxu1 on Jul 12, 2021 14:12:56 GMT 1
 After a few days I noticed the oil travelling up the lines from the oil pump. The engine has not been started so it must be the weight of the oil in the tank making it flow through the pump. Does this mean if the bike has not run for a while that oil will end up in the carb/intake and into the cylinder? One line is travelling faster than the other and the oil pump is at the extent of its stroke. |
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Post by stirling11 on Jul 12, 2021 15:30:52 GMT 1
Air bubbles in oil lines are never a good sign
It could be an air leak around the spigots due to the tie wire and the clear tubing not having a seal around the spigots due to it's wall thickness and the way the tubing gets pinched on the spigots
I'm pretty sure Arrow has mentioned that happening before on another forum
You could do worse than pop him a PM or await his input on your thread
HTH
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cnkxu1
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Post by cnkxu1 on Jul 12, 2021 23:14:13 GMT 1
Air bubbles in oil lines are never a good sign It could be an air leak around the spigots due to the tie wire and the clear tubing not having a seal around the spigots due to it's wall thickness and the way the tubing gets pinched on the spigots I'm pretty sure Arrow has mentioned that happening before on another forum You could do worse than pop him a PM or await his input on your thread HTH Thanks for your concern. I have only just primed the pump so no oil has been pumped through yet. There are no leaks of oil or air. Just an observation that gravity seems to fill the line gradually. |
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Post by stirling11 on Jul 13, 2021 1:08:11 GMT 1
That's a bonus, I suppose it is possible that you have enough pressure due to the "weight" of oil in the tank, or head to give it it's proper name
Is that enough to essentially prime the oil lines, I don't know.
I'd have thought it wouldn't, better brains than me will no doubt give you the correct answer
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Post by JonW on Jul 13, 2021 2:55:39 GMT 1
The head of oil sort of makes sense with the one way valve, but... if this really was ok then if you left a bike with a full oil tank it would push most of its contents into the engine if sat long enough. That doesnt sound quite right to me.
What does Arrow think?
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cnkxu1
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Post by cnkxu1 on Jul 13, 2021 23:46:37 GMT 1
The head of oil sort of makes sense with the one way valve, but... if this really was ok then if you left a bike with a full oil tank it would push most of its contents into the engine if sat long enough. That doesnt sound quite right to me. What does Arrow think? That was my concern that the pump was too worn and the oil would keep flowing. I have just received a new oil pump, so I will swap it over and see what happens. |
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Post by arrow on Jul 14, 2021 2:19:39 GMT 1
The oil is flowing slowly through the lines is due to the check valves passing. Lock wire on the outlet pipes, particularly at the oil pump end is bad news, due to its non spring effect - and very small contact area. The wire will 'spin' freely (and not seal the pipes) after not many hours of use.
The new pump is fine for the lc motor, BUT it has to be shimmed to the correct spec. It gets delivered with the later (smaller) minimum stroke, which means its out of spec. for the earlier bikes.
Replied to your pm.
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cnkxu1
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Post by cnkxu1 on Jul 15, 2021 11:47:06 GMT 1
The oil is flowing slowly through the lines is due to the check valves passing. Lock wire on the outlet pipes, particularly at the oil pump end is bad news, due to its non spring effect - and very small contact area. The wire will 'spin' freely (and not seal the pipes) after not many hours of use. The new pump is fine for the lc motor, BUT it has to be shimmed to the correct spec. It gets delivered with the later (smaller) minimum stroke, which means its out of spec. for the earlier bikes. Replied to your pm. 11 thou on the new pump it is. Thanks for all the kind responses. We live and learn. |
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Post by arrow on Jul 15, 2021 12:16:39 GMT 1
Should be 10 thou, but it will soon be 10 (on a new pump). Also gives you longer before a re-shim is required.
All depends on how often you re-check the gap. Should be every 2000 miles.
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cnkxu1
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Post by cnkxu1 on Jul 17, 2021 10:05:33 GMT 1
Took the oil pump off and found it was a 250 with of course a 250 shaft. Went looking through my box of oil pumps and they were all 250s. Had a look at one of the 250 engines that had 350 barrels fitted and it turns out to be a 350 pump and shaft. One PO did the right thing and updated the pump with the barrels and carbs and I don't know what the other was thinking, might just have had to resort to a 250 pump that may have been on hand at the time. None of my LC motors and frames are matching numbers so I am sort of not surprised.
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Post by arrow on Jul 17, 2021 10:53:06 GMT 1
Took the oil pump off and found it was a 250 with of course a 250 shaft. Went looking through my box of oil pumps and they were all 250s. Had a look at one of the 250 engines that had 350 barrels fitted and it turns out to be a 350 pump and shaft. One PO did the right thing and updated the pump with the barrels and carbs and I don't know what the other was thinking, might just have had to resort to a 250 pump that may have been on hand at the time. None of my LC motors and frames are matching numbers so I am sort of not surprised. This is a very common problem, unfortunately, although the pumps can be converted, no problem. |
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cnkxu1
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Post by cnkxu1 on Jul 31, 2021 11:45:47 GMT 1
Lockdown 5 and a little more progress. Waiting for some Webike parts to arrive.
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Post by JonW on Aug 2, 2021 1:54:30 GMT 1
Yes Im waiting on webike as well at the mo, i chose surface mail for a set of pipes, bargain post but there is a wait of course  |
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cnkxu1
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Post by cnkxu1 on Aug 3, 2021 10:07:27 GMT 1
Yes Im waiting on webike as well at the mo, i chose surface mail for a set of pipes, bargain post but there is a wait of course They don't give you much of an indication where the package is apart from with Japan Post. Should have had an olympic athlete bring the bits back. |
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cnkxu1
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Post by cnkxu1 on Aug 3, 2021 10:11:30 GMT 1
Yes Im waiting on webike as well at the mo, i chose surface mail for a set of pipes, bargain post but there is a wait of course There are some nice looking pipes on the site. What did you decide on? |
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Post by JonW on Aug 3, 2021 13:44:32 GMT 1
Yes Im waiting on webike as well at the mo, i chose surface mail for a set of pipes, bargain post but there is a wait of course They don't give you much of an indication where the package is apart from with Japan Post. Should have had an olympic athlete bring the bits back. Yeah, the problem is not much happens while its at sea I guess. |
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Post by JonW on Aug 3, 2021 13:45:12 GMT 1
Yes Im waiting on webike as well at the mo, i chose surface mail for a set of pipes, bargain post but there is a wait of course There are some nice looking pipes on the site. What did you decide on? some mild steel K2TECs to see if they are any good. cheap as chips. |
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Post by stirling11 on Aug 3, 2021 16:55:03 GMT 1
I'd be interested to hear how they go too
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Post by JonW on Aug 4, 2021 0:57:36 GMT 1
I'd be interested to hear how they go too no worries happy to provide feedback but they are for a future project so wont be anytime soon. I read as many reviews as i could find and they seemed to be very positive. Im not looking for huge gains, just better noise and not have to scrape the barrels ive already been right to the bottom of for yet another set of OEMs that would need a lot of repairs. |
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cnkxu1
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Post by cnkxu1 on Aug 14, 2021 8:19:40 GMT 1
Tried my hand at turning a screw thread. Used a 16mm bolt. It works but I fear the metal is a bit soft and would need heat treating. That would be a bit hit and miss, so I shelved the idea. A 350 oil pump shaft is on its way from Webike.  |
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cnkxu1
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Post by cnkxu1 on Aug 14, 2021 8:21:11 GMT 1
Amazing what you find when you are looking for something else. I did not know I had these oil line clips.  |
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Post by Robbieben on Aug 14, 2021 8:31:12 GMT 1
Tried my hand at turning a screw thread. Used a 16mm bolt. It works but I fear the metal is a bit soft and would need heat treating. That would be a bit hit and miss, so I shelved the idea. A 350 oil pump shaft is on its way from Webike. For something like that you need EN24 steel, that is already heat treated and you can cut threads into it on a lathe. |
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Post by arrow on Aug 14, 2021 11:20:54 GMT 1
Tried my hand at turning a screw thread. Used a 16mm bolt. It works but I fear the metal is a bit soft and would need heat treating. That would be a bit hit and miss, so I shelved the idea. A 350 oil pump shaft is on its way from Webike. Nice effort though. Well done. |
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Post by stirling11 on Aug 14, 2021 11:43:13 GMT 1
A Class 12.9 M16 might do it too
A lot harder than 8.8, however also harder to machine without chipping
The issue is that, depending on the length of the bolt you have to use, it may well have a slight bend in it
I’ve seen it in 7/8 x 10” UNC Grade 8 that depending on the supplier, some are “straighter” than others
DIN seem to be better than ISO standard though
I’ve found Brighton Best to be straighter than Bremick
As above a bit of machine steel would be the best as you probably won’t get eccentric rotation
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cnkxu1
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Post by cnkxu1 on Aug 14, 2021 22:35:17 GMT 1
Tried my hand at turning a screw thread. Used a 16mm bolt. It works but I fear the metal is a bit soft and would need heat treating. That would be a bit hit and miss, so I shelved the idea. A 350 oil pump shaft is on its way from Webike. Nice effort though. Well done. 2.5mm pitch makes everything move very quickly on the lathe. I learnt a lot about cutting angles and how much I could cut in one pass. I can always use this in an electric drill to test pump flow. |
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cnkxu1
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Post by cnkxu1 on Aug 15, 2021 6:30:37 GMT 1
jonw is right. There is nothing like a new seat to really make a build feel like a new bike  |
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