Started a resto on 82 RD350LC during lockdown in Australia

[cnkxu1]

Talk about torque. Must have gone around 4 or 5 times torqueing the head. The new head gasket I guess just kept compressing. Anyway another step closer, next is refurbishing the exhaust pipes. They are pretty rough with a big scrape on the right hand side, so a bit of scrubbing, filling and paint.

[cnkxu1]

Parallel processing - on to the front muddy. Poor old thing, every time I touch it another piece breaks off but I have a replacement which while not original will be functional enough to get a roadworthy and not look too bad. 



The bracket is the one that used to hold a front number plate before we decided that they were dangerous. I came across this muddy thinking some time ago when one of my classic cars saw an evolution where the front which was very distinctive was deemed to be very pointy and likely to cause injury to pedestrians, around the same time as hood ornaments disappeared. It does not matter if something is flat or pointy when you hit something at any sort of speed. I have been involved with health and safety committees and it is a continuing argument about elimination of danger and the use of common sense.

[JonW]

If youre after a better muddy, Webike sell a decent quality modern plastic front mudguard. its cheap enough as well at about $80ish (depends on x rate) +post (i buy things ahead of when i need them and use their surface post, saves a fortune). It comes with a bracket, but your old one will fit, just needs the holes drilling for the extra bolts if you want 'aussie spec'. I drill the rivets and pull the brackets off before paint and use new rivets to refit to get a better quality job and as my plater is better than theirs i get them replated, but you dont have to its ok as is - its just the industrial 'by the thousand' vs the hand done work.

japan.webike.net/products/23087733.html

(To be fair Norbo sells a front muddy too, but its OEM and so obviously is a lot more money)

[cnkxu1]

Jun 8, 2021 1:28:57 GMT 1 JonW said:

If youre after a better muddy, Webike sell a decent quality modern plastic front mudguard. its cheap enough as well at about $80ish (depends on x rate) +post (i buy things ahead of when i need them and use their surface post, saves a fortune). It comes with a bracket, but your old one will fit, just needs the holes drilling for the extra bolts if you want 'aussie spec'. I drill the rivets and pull the brackets off before paint and use new rivets to refit to get a better quality job and as my plater is better than theirs i get them replated, but you dont have to its ok as is - its just the industrial 'by the thousand' vs the hand done work.

japan.webike.net/products/23087733.html

(To be fair Norbo sells a front muddy too, but its OEM and so obviously is a lot more money)

Looks to be about 125AUD (69USD plus 28USD sea freight) landed if there is no duty or gst compared to 135 pound 250AUD plus freight. We are living in the wrong country Jon. I am happy with the Roonsport one for now.

[JonW]

not sure where you found 125, it says '89.25AUD (7,567 JPY)' when i look.

there is no duty on this to import, its under 1k and webike do not charge gst.

[cnkxu1]

Jun 8, 2021 5:36:38 GMT 1 JonW said:

not sure where you found 125, it says '89.25AUD (7,567 JPY)' when i look.

there is no duty on this to import, its under 1k and webike do not charge gst.

It defaults to USD and I converted. I clicked on AUD and it comes up as 89.25AUD and add 36.48AUD shipping is 125 total.

[cnkxu1]

A bit more progress - fitted the chain and used a rivet joiner.

[cnkxu1]

I think I compressed the rivets enough.

[cnkxu1]

Safety wired the rotor bolts.

[cnkxu1]

Fitted the clocks

[cnkxu1]

Nice shiny new bits
Pipes came up ok too.

[cnkxu1]

Horns did not work out of the box but I took them apart and adjusted the nuts and bolts until they made noise. Low note just needed a little turn on the nut. High note was a bit more stubborn. I think everything was tightened up too much when they were manufactured.

[JonW]

Ahh, where were they from? Ive had a few sets from yambits and they worked out the box, but know guys have had issues with the Legend ones. We usually say these all come from the say factory so maybe the Legends are seconds, but good to know that a fiddle makes them work

Oh and your C/stand is missing its foot in case you werent aware?

[cnkxu1]

Jun 28, 2021 6:43:38 GMT 1 JonW said:

Ahh, where were they from? Ive had a few sets from yambits and they worked out the box, but know guys have had issues with the Legend ones. We usually say these all come from the say factory so maybe the Legends are seconds, but good to know that a fiddle makes them work

Oh and your C/stand is missing its foot in case you werent aware?

Horns were from Yambits November last year and I did not test them until now. 

Centre stand is a bit of a problem. The foot is indeed missing and I have not been able to find another one. It is why it has not been repainted until I weld on something suitable. I fitted it up with the pipes  to work out some measurements and shapes. You would think stands would be available with all the bikes that have had aftermarket pipes fitted but I guess they were all thrown away.

[cnkxu1]

BTW the horn has a 10mm nut as a spacer behind the plate that vibrates. Not quite right. I will have to see if I have any other old horns and what they use as a spacer.

[cnkxu1]

A new friend from the west sent me a chain guard. Another step forward and another positive outcome from this forum.

[oldbritguy]

Fantastic work.
Really enjoying this build. Giving me some good tips too 😉
John

[cnkxu1]

Installed a new clutch basket today. Torqued to 65 ft lbs achieved by placing in first gear and standing on the foot brake.

[cnkxu1]

And new clutch plates, soaked overnight in engine oil.

[cnkxu1]

Primed the pump and the oil is starting to come through. This was done by opening the screw until the oil flowed, closing the screw, kicking the motor over until the pump stroke was the greatest and manually pushing tje pump shaft in and out until the oil flowed. I collected the oil from the bleeder and squirted that into the intake. That should lubricate the bottom end when it starts until the pump fills the lines.

[cnkxu1]

Nice new radiator cover

[stirling11]

Chris

You may wish to change out the clear oil lines for the solid black Yamaha ones

I was advised by Arrow a few years back that the majority of the clear ones do not like the Aussie sun

Just a thought for you

[cnkxu1]

Jul 5, 2021 13:59:34 GMT 1 stirling11 said:

Chris

You may wish to change out the clear oil lines for the solid black Yamaha ones

I was advised by Arrow a few years back that the majority of the clear ones do not like the Aussie sun

Just a thought for you

I may do that once I have seen the oil coming through. The lines are fuel and oil rated though. Not that this bike will see the sun all that often. It is on a 45 day club permit and I usually only go out less than 5 times a year on my other club permit vehicles. Besides it is in Melbourne and there are only two good bike riding days - one in Autumn and one in Spring - the rest of the year is too damn hot or too damn cold. LOL

[cnkxu1]

Those blue radiator hoses have to go too. I have some black ones on order.

[cnkxu1]

1M1 oil pump so using the rectangular mark for full throttle

[cnkxu1]

Tried the copper wire but resorted to the coat hanger wire to pack out the exhaust flange.

[JonW]

That copper twist is nice and neat

But, yeah Ive always had to resort to the old coathanger in mine.

I'm not a fan of the wire lock wire on the oil hose, your call of course but the OEM clip (on the OEM pipe as has been said) is the way with these really.

[cnkxu1]

Love using my twist lock pliers

[cnkxu1]

Wrestle mania. A bit of silicon and a lot of wriggling and they are in.

[cnkxu1]

Just have to put on the choke interconnect tube between the carbies, add the balance tube and some drain tubes - another step closer.