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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 8, 2020 19:54:44 GMT 1
Good work there Steve a bit o patience and jobs a good un ,i your youth you probably would have horsed that and broke something π Damn right I'd have knackered that lol The puller plate has one of the m10 bolts stuck in it now as it bent in the middle and has mushroomed at the end Shows the force it took Steve
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Post by steve h on Nov 8, 2020 20:10:25 GMT 1
With age comes wisdom Grasshopper... Nice to see its not winging its way tae the nearest midge.
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Post by oldbritguy on Nov 8, 2020 20:54:32 GMT 1
RESULTTTT!!!!!!
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Post by abar121 on Nov 16, 2020 20:12:54 GMT 1
Great job on the head!
You're in for a shock when you see how much the crank weighs!
I was at Chris Applebees ages ago with a h1 500 crank. I said it was a heavy fcuker.
They laughed and handed over a GT750 crank! What a beast.
They can take a load of weight out and do a bunch of TR and their own improvements I think. Top prices of course.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 16, 2020 20:39:41 GMT 1
Great job on the head! You're in for a shock when you see how much the crank weighs! I was at Chris Applebees ages ago with a h1 500 crank. I said it was a heavy fcuker. They laughed and handed over a GT750 crank! What a beast. They can take a load of weight out and do a bunch of TR and their own improvements I think. Top prices of course. Lol Yes it's an anchor π I know the engine is over 70kg and the weight of the top end ain't much so it's mostly the crank I'll have to decide when I get round to that stage what to do with it Taking some weight out is a good idea but need to decide on timing/generator/starter as that will decide the crank width I'm expecting my pants pulled down anyway as spoke to bdk and without a rebore/pistons they have quoted Β£1500 π± Steve
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Post by yamark on Nov 16, 2020 20:56:15 GMT 1
Great work Steve, that looks like epic corrosion. I'm not looking forward to the weight of the 700's crank, I'll be joining you in the "pants pulled down" club
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 20, 2020 17:28:32 GMT 1
Been on the phone a bit today
Barrel and head getting packed up over the weekend ready to go to BDK.
Need to make a final decision on porting spec. I'm thinking I may stop short of full TR porting to keep a bit more bottom end although they say full TR spec peaks at 7.5k - 8k revs and about 120hp which is lower revving than I thought
Porting gets raised a fair bit. The barrel spacer is 3mm plus 0.5mm for the second gasket then 4mm is shaved off the top.
They raise the exhaust port even more for full TR spec so may ask them to leave it at 3.5mm to keep some bottom end
Also ordered a TR750 pipe kits from the lovely Dave Swarbrick with alloy cans
Another decision needed on the pipes. He is going to make the stingers 4 inches longer as on a road bike you can push the stingers 4 inches into the rear cone to make it a little more "social"
He has warned they have a very loud crackle in race trim π€
Steve
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 20, 2020 19:06:16 GMT 1
Snap, Crackle and Pop. That sounds good
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 20, 2020 19:20:58 GMT 1
Snap, Crackle and Pop. That sounds good Yeah, the pop is out the back of the carbs π€£ Steve
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Nov 21, 2020 9:27:59 GMT 1
"loud crackle" bring it on, the neighbours might not be too impressed π€
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 22, 2020 22:35:57 GMT 1
Top end boxed up, being collected tomorrow
I laughed when I had a good look at the barrel
On the RD engines they say the transfer tunnels are the biggest restriction. On the GT you can get your finger right up the tunnel and out the port π€£
Need to start thinking about getting the bottom end out the frame, I'll be stripping everything I can off first to reduce the weight π
Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 24, 2020 11:33:05 GMT 1
Been on the phone again
Ordered a NOVA close ratio gearbox conversation kit π±
Think I need a lie down now π
Steve
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Post by JonW on Nov 24, 2020 12:45:03 GMT 1
Been on the phone again Ordered a NOVA close ratio gearbox conversation kit π± Think I need a lie down now π Steve OMFG! that all your crimbo money spent then!
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 24, 2020 13:19:01 GMT 1
Been on the phone again Ordered a NOVA close ratio gearbox conversation kit π± Think I need a lie down now π Steve OMFG! that all your crimbo money spent then! The conversion ain't that bad (kind off) It's a new input shaft and 3 gears for a tad under Β£800 2nd, 3rd and 4th are ok but a big jump from 1st to second and 5th is more like an overdrive You get the 5th gear input and output gear and 1 1st input Think you then fit the old 1st input on the output (or vice versa) This gives a taller 1st to reduce the step to second and a lower geared 5th to close the jump from 4th. This bottom end ain't coming apart again so while it's open... Steve
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 24, 2020 17:55:10 GMT 1
OMFG! that all your crimbo money spent then! This bottom end ain't coming apart again so while it's open... Steve Famous last words Steve.
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Post by veg on Nov 24, 2020 19:33:58 GMT 1
You need a go fund me page matey. Iβll give you a couple of curly wurly to start. This is gonna be mega π
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 24, 2020 19:51:57 GMT 1
You need a go fund me page matey. Iβll give you a couple of curly wurly to start. This is gonna be mega π Tell me about it, you could go mental with what's available, it's where to stop Think I need to remember the brief of it being a road bike with a starter motor and needs a decent generator on it Lots of magnesium casings, race genny's etc 100 horse and the revised gears should be enough fun, I've stayed away from the straight cut primaries as they need the crank modified Not decided on electric water pump yet π€ Gears should be a couple of weeks, they are waiting on a batch of gears coming back from heat treatment Steve
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Post by veg on Nov 24, 2020 19:53:54 GMT 1
If I donβt go tz for my flat tracker I may need an electric water pump so be interested.π
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 24, 2020 20:16:04 GMT 1
If I donβt go tz for my flat tracker I may need an electric water pump so be interested.π BDK sell it but I think Zeeltronic make it Water pump, controller and temp sensor
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 3, 2020 12:49:40 GMT 1
Decided to stick with the mechanical water pump Not even removed the old one but they are known for failing due to corrosion on the shaft and seal housing so bought a new complete pump assembly while you can still get a hold of them Now us RD folk complain about Β£20 for a seal and a Β£10 bearing This little beauty is a mere Β£177 π± (and that is discounted) Steve
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Post by oldbritguy on Dec 3, 2020 13:18:35 GMT 1
That looks very nice indeed Steve. Worth every penny. Careful not to damage anything when using that knife to fit it π
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Post by JonW on Dec 3, 2020 13:25:43 GMT 1
Class Steve. Do it once, do it right.
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Post by abar121 on Dec 10, 2020 17:10:59 GMT 1
I found these pictures from Stafford, of a Harris GT750. Not sure if they are of any use / inspiration. Looked wonderful anyway.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Dec 10, 2020 18:01:25 GMT 1
Very usefull for drooling over π
Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 19, 2021 11:44:32 GMT 1
Still nothing from Nova on the gears π€¨ Not expecting top end till end of Feb Pipe kit turned up from Swarbrick. Not much to see, just some oily pipes and cones. Cans are nice and old school though π Steve
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Post by arrdy350 on Jan 19, 2021 18:53:40 GMT 1
End cans look nice π
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Post by steve63 on Jan 20, 2021 13:54:42 GMT 1
Silly question then, is DeoxC safe on alloy? I ask as I dropped some cast fuel cap parts off an RD350A into it and i could see it start to get into the mazak and begin to turn it to powder. hmm... I ask as LB wanted to put it into his VFR400 and I warned against it, but maybe Ive been hasty? I've been dropping LC/YPVS master cylinders and calipers into it for a couple of weeks now and leaving them for a couple or three or more days and there seems to be no harmful effect on the aluminium. If anything it seems to brighten it up. I even suspect it softens the aluminium corrosion up a bit and makes it easier to remove. On the banjo connection and the lid screws threads there was rust in them but after a couple of days in the solution they are clean as a whistle. I would post pictures to prove but it seems that after a couple of months of not posting pictures I have forgotten how to I'd like to say it's a sign of old age but I suspect I've always been like this. I dropped a badly corroded RGV rear master cylinder in there on maybe Thursday/Friday last week. It seems to be doing it's stuff. It doesn't seem to like zinc plating and turns it grey/black if there is any still on.
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Post by mouse on Jan 21, 2021 8:37:02 GMT 1
Are you welding the pipes up yourself Steve (another of your skills!)? Would seem the sort of job where you need about six hands!
Mouse
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 21, 2021 10:16:04 GMT 1
Are you welding the pipes up yourself Steve (another of your skills!)? Would seem the sort of job where you need about six hands! Mouse I don't own a welder and have never tried it lol I keep saying I'll buy a mig and give it a go as it's a right pain when I need stuff done and I have to cart it elsewhere My original plan was to get a mate (one mig, one gas) to give me a hand positioning and tacking before removing then taking to a local place I've used before to get it all tig'd The header pipes are mandrel formed but there is a flared section about 3 inches long, then the first cone, then the centre chamber, the rear cone and the stinger with the silencer flange so only 4 sections on each pipe The complex bit will be the left pipe. It goes under the bike then crosses up over the sprocket cover, cuts across the frame then out the other side. The technical bit is the pipe kit comes with all 3 pipes the same so you have to make the cuts to shape and turn it Luckily I have just learned that there is someone semi local that can do the whole thing as he does race bike exhausts. Now there is also a curved ball in the mix. I had originally wanted the pipes in stainless but I'm swaying towards black ceramic coated but like both options The biggest thing was there are not many people who have designed and built pipes for these bikes so I needed something proven or I'd be wasting big money So now I have the dimensions and an actual physical set of pipes the question is do i wait till I get a dry built chassis and and bare engine cases then go to Alonze and get him to either fit the Swarbrick pipes or get him to use the basic dimensions then fab me a set in stainless π€ That way I could get him to cross over the centre and RH pipe to make them shorter at the rear π Shouldn't be too difficult to sell on the original pipe kit at a discount π Steve
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Post by mouse on Jan 21, 2021 16:45:53 GMT 1
Yes, being able to weld (especially ally) is a great skill and one i would love!
Choices with the pipes, i like the idea of ceramic coating, i guess you mean black, would look awesome, i have just had my hybrid barrels and head Ceracoated and it looks great.
The pipes on yours are going to be such an integral part of the overall look, especially with the 'crossover', great stuff!
Mouse
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