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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 26, 2020 12:35:13 GMT 1
Yes I intended getting some heat into it
From what I've seen on ebay only the front 2 outer studs have shoulders
I intend to make the plate, fit it and give it a good tightening before walking away and leaving it overnight before going back to see if I can turn the bolts anymore
The deox C should have sorted the rusty studs so hopefully just the shouldered section to break the seal
And yes it will be a long and expensive project
I have near enough a rolling chassis so once the engine is in bits I'll get the top end work done so I can get the bare cases in the frame, the new carbs/filters on and see about pipes getting made
Steve
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Post by JonW on Oct 26, 2020 12:59:18 GMT 1
Silly question then, is DeoxC safe on alloy? I ask as I dropped some cast fuel cap parts off an RD350A into it and i could see it start to get into the mazak and begin to turn it to powder.
hmm... I ask as LB wanted to put it into his VFR400 and I warned against it, but maybe Ive been hasty?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Oct 26, 2020 14:15:57 GMT 1
Silly question then, is DeoxC safe on alloy? I ask as I dropped some cast fuel cap parts off an RD350A into it and i could see it start to get into the mazak and begin to turn it to powder. hmm... I ask as LB wanted to put it into his VFR400 and I warned against it, but maybe Ive been hasty? It's supposed to be alloy safe 🤞 Steve |
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Post by abar121 on Oct 26, 2020 15:49:45 GMT 1
The pots on my H1 500 Kwaka were pretty seized on and corroded.
I left it in the frame and put a ratchet strap through the exhaust and intake port, then around the top frame tube. A little tension, lots of lube and after a few days, the most stubborn one pulled free.
Won't work for all of them no doubt, but quite satisfying when they popped out.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 4, 2020 16:19:17 GMT 1
Step one Big slab of 10mm plate with 19 holes drilled in 😁 Steve  |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 7, 2020 21:06:52 GMT 1
Holes for the crankcase tapped to m10 M10 bolts fitted then bolted to the block with the other m8 bolts Steve    |
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Post by stusco on Nov 7, 2020 21:29:50 GMT 1
And?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 7, 2020 21:35:52 GMT 1
Time will tell Front right corner is solid Whole back edge and left side move quite easily so looks like just one stuck stud I sucked out all the Deox C out the holes and replaced with wd40 I've left tension on the front RH and also had the blow lamp on it for 5 mins I'll leave it over night to see if the heat/cool sucks some WD in and allows another bit on the bolts. Not expecting it to be a quick resolution Steve |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 7, 2020 21:37:37 GMT 1
You can see the gap everywhere but the front RH Steve    |
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Post by stusco on Nov 7, 2020 21:40:40 GMT 1
Im not sure wd is a release oil but you never know,its not a race anyway so you’ve got time to try all the options im sure it will move eventually ,the good news is its only one stud
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 7, 2020 21:48:22 GMT 1
It does penetrate to a degree
Wanted to displace the moisture from the Deox
Steve
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 7, 2020 21:56:01 GMT 1
It's the tiny up and down movements that will release it.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 7, 2020 22:07:03 GMT 1
It's the tiny up and down movements that will release it. If I can't get any more on the 2 front bolts tomorrow I'm going to start jacking the rear RH edge open and closed to see if the wiggling helps Steve |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 7, 2020 22:11:58 GMT 1
I think it's just a matter of being patient and moving it up and pushing it back down many times with a little warmth and some WD40 or penetrating fluid.
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Post by 4l04ever on Nov 8, 2020 10:57:37 GMT 1
I use PlusGas for freeing up rusty bolts. Maybe worth a try.
Has it got stuck on corroded studs or the gasket? If it is the studs, maybe worth replacing with stainless or at least zinc plated.
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Post by Shytalk on Nov 8, 2020 11:26:34 GMT 1
A bit of diesel squirted around the area, but it’ll take time, don’t be hasty or it’ll be an expensive repair.
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Nov 8, 2020 11:38:04 GMT 1
i read somewhere many years ago of a DIY releasing idea, mix celluose thinners and gearbox oil together and apply to seized area! i vaugely remember using this process a long time ago..,
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Post by jon on Nov 8, 2020 11:57:18 GMT 1
Jumping ahead a bit, but on reassembly I’d definitely smear the studs in copperslip before re-assembly.
Jon
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 8, 2020 12:16:22 GMT 1
I use PlusGas for freeing up rusty bolts. Maybe worth a try. Has it got stuck on corroded studs or the gasket? If it is the studs, maybe worth replacing with stainless or at least zinc plated. I believe the two outer front studs have a thicker section at the base to locate the barrel centrally rather than say the ypvs using dowels I'm assuming that's where it is stuck It should not happen again as I'll be using doughty washers to stop any future problems Steve |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 8, 2020 12:18:36 GMT 1
Jumping ahead a bit, but on reassembly I’d definitely smear the studs in copperslip before re-assembly. Jon That was my plan. I hopefully will never have to remove it again but certainly don't want this hassle if I do It is very near the edge so I dare say it's quite easy to crack the crankcase if too rough with it Steve |
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Post by 4l04ever on Nov 8, 2020 13:35:22 GMT 1
Maybe put some copper grease on the affected studs before rebuild??
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 8, 2020 13:58:47 GMT 1
Going...  |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 8, 2020 13:59:15 GMT 1
Going...  |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 8, 2020 13:59:54 GMT 1
Going... 😀  |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 8, 2020 14:17:48 GMT 1
Great, you could use titanium studs. Not sure how they react to aluminium, but stainless is worse than steel for dissimilar materials. Another old fashion remedy would be to paint the bare studs (new ones).
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 8, 2020 16:23:19 GMT 1
And it's off 😁 Only slight issue is some clever person fitted a stud to one of the m8 bolt holes and now the head is off the studs the bolt won't let it clear the frame top tubes 🙄 Steve  |
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Post by andy748 on Nov 8, 2020 17:32:09 GMT 1
Nice work Steve, little bit of patience and you're there, no damage, excellent result. Andy.
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Post by dusty350 on Nov 8, 2020 18:23:27 GMT 1
Nice one Steve  Thought you might have had a couple more days of that ! Nice result, and no damage Dusty |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 8, 2020 18:30:23 GMT 1
Cheers guys, it's finally out the frame now Looks like the 1 stud on top of the block is supposed to be there Looked at pics on ebay and a couple had it in the same place It goes down into the water jacket so probably why it isn't a bolt Just makes it an absolute bitch to get it out from between the 2 top frame spars Steve   |
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Post by stusco on Nov 8, 2020 19:02:26 GMT 1
Good work there Steve a bit o patience and jobs a good un ,i your youth you probably would have horsed that and broke something 👍
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