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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 19, 2022 11:30:12 GMT 1
Hi - been watching this with interest. I built a TR750 (as close to original as I could), with BDK dry clutch ign case, throttle; they also did the porting and O ringed barrels. With the right pipes the bike is surprisingly quick. Gets very lively about 6000 and pulls like a train up to around 8300... I have VM38s on it and they worked straight out of the box, only had to tweak the pilots jets up one size to make it run cleaner low down. if I knew how to post pics on this board/forum I’d drop one of the bike on here - keep you encouraged to get it completed. If you have any questions I’d be happy to share my experience. Cheers That's good to know, cheers 👍 You can post pics from your phone using the Tapatalk App Steve |
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drix
L plate rider.
Posts: 12
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Post by drix on May 19, 2022 12:47:25 GMT 1
Hi - been watching this with interest. I built a TR750 (as close to original as I could), with BDK dry clutch ign case, throttle; they also did the porting and O ringed barrels. With the right pipes the bike is surprisingly quick. Gets very lively about 6000 and pulls like a train up to around 8300... I have VM38s on it and they worked straight out of the box, only had to tweak the pilots jets up one size to make it run cleaner low down. if I knew how to post pics on this board/forum I’d drop one of the bike on here - keep you encouraged to get it completed. If you have any questions I’d be happy to share my experience. Cheers That's good to know, cheers 👍 You can post pics from your phone using the Tapatalk App Steve Before I did the pipes and shortened the fork legs...  |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 19, 2022 13:25:29 GMT 1
Very nice sir 😎
Steve
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Post by dusty350 on May 19, 2022 18:34:48 GMT 1
That's a beauty  |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 31, 2022 23:06:07 GMT 1
Finally got round to stripping the gearbox out of the engine Funny how you get used to Yams and everything else seems alien When you look at the Suzuki there are a few bits that are not accessible without splitting the cases which seems crazy The detent stopper arm is located in with the shift drum and is tensioner by a little spring located on a lug. Looks like it belongs in a clock, not a gear change mechanism Got the bolt out that the head had chewed on. It was on the plate that secures the gear selector drum in and luckily when the other screw was out there was enough space to rotate the plate half a turn which undid the screw enough to get it out so happy days Somehow don't think this little banjo is supposed to be like this. Another part hidden between the cases 🙄  |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 1, 2022 16:43:32 GMT 1
Just found out what the pipe is for
Its a weird breather from the water pump
Does nothing in general use but if either the water seal or the oil seal fails it diverts the leak out through a drain hole under the engine
Why the feck is that not an internal passage 🙄
Steve
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Post by JonW on Jun 2, 2022 3:51:17 GMT 1
Cos it got added later Steve? ie when something happened and Suzuki had to engineer a fix but had already finalised the case design...
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 4, 2022 15:57:20 GMT 1
Found a NOS vent pipe/banjos
Fifty feckin quid 😖
Steve
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Post by tony2stroke on Jun 4, 2022 16:17:11 GMT 1
Yeah!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
and we moan about the price of LC stuff, GT stuff is another level.
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Post by buck1963 on Jun 5, 2022 19:57:12 GMT 1
Just read through your build start to finish (again) how have I not spotted the swingarm before? Is there any chance you could let me know who made it? I'm looking for somebody to make me one! Thanks
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 5, 2022 20:21:37 GMT 1
Just read through your build start to finish (again) how have I not spotted the swingarm before? Is there any chance you could let me know who made it? I'm looking for somebody to make me one! Thanks Hi The swing arm came with the frame kit from pointy hat wizard fabrications His email is phwfabrications@btinternet.com Hope that helps Steve |
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Post by buck1963 on Jun 5, 2022 21:11:44 GMT 1
Just read through your build start to finish (again) how have I not spotted the swingarm before? Is there any chance you could let me know who made it? I'm looking for somebody to make me one! Thanks Hi The swing arm came with the frame kit from pointy hat wizard fabrications His email is phwfabrications@btinternet.com Hope that helps Steve Thats brilliant,thanks |
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drix
L plate rider.
Posts: 12
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Post by drix on Jun 8, 2022 12:30:37 GMT 1
Just found out what the pipe is for Its a weird breather from the water pump Does nothing in general use but if either the water seal or the oil seal fails it diverts the leak out through a drain hole under the engine Why the feck is that not an internal passage 🙄 Steve The fun of ancient GT750 engines. The actual drain hole is a slot sort of thing pointing backwards in the water pump case. If you need to refurb the water pump it’s easy, don’t fall for the £100+ option on Fleabay - I did and the pump leaked when I first started my bike. Pulled the pump out and stripped it - ceramic seal cracked... was supposedly all new! The 3 ‘o’ rings and the oil seal are available - look at CMSNL to get the sizes, then go to a seal supplier. The Suzuki ceramic water seal isn’t available but ya just nee d to buy a Kawasaki seal for £18. I have the part number somewhere - will find it and drop it on here. Key thing is the condition of the pump impeller shaft - usually very corroded around the impeller area and where the little circlip fits. It’s also where everyone grabs the shaft with a pair of pliers to extract the pump. Have a mod. for that also to save spending many many hours unsuccessfully trying to find a good shaft. There is a handy trick to help remove the pump also in the future - drilling a hole in the top crankcase in line with the shaft centre line. Can then drift the pump out of the lower case - hole tapped for and is plugged with an M6 bolt and sealing washer. Get on to the Kettle club forum - lots of good info there. Other things would be the SRIS unions at the front of the lower crankcase, the oil pump, the lines, and the banjo bolts, assuming you are keeping the oil pump. All hard to source or repair. I didn’t have to do that as I changed the crank and rods to allow me to use premix. |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 8, 2022 12:41:40 GMT 1
Just found out what the pipe is for Its a weird breather from the water pump Does nothing in general use but if either the water seal or the oil seal fails it diverts the leak out through a drain hole under the engine Why the feck is that not an internal passage 🙄 Steve The fun of ancient GT750 engines. Get on to the Kettle club forum - lots of good info there. Other things would be the SRIS unions at the front of the lower crankcase, the oil pump, the lines, and the banjo bolts, assuming you are keeping the oil pump. All hard to source or repair. I didn’t have to do that as I changed the crank and rods to allow me to use premix. Some good tips there Luckily I have a new pump, grabbed one out of the last batch made while I could I nearly went electric pump but liked the simplicity of the mechanical one I'll be keeping the oil pump, I already have the new SRIS valves and elbows along with the Kawasaki banjos I'm on the kettle club which has been really helpful 👍 All tips welcome 😀 Steve |
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Post by tony2stroke on Jun 8, 2022 12:55:16 GMT 1
Just found out what the pipe is for Its a weird breather from the water pump Does nothing in general use but if either the water seal or the oil seal fails it diverts the leak out through a drain hole under the engine Why the feck is that not an internal passage 🙄 Steve The fun of ancient GT750 engines. The actual drain hole is a slot sort of thing pointing backwards in the water pump case. If you need to refurb the water pump it’s easy, don’t fall for the £100+ option on Fleabay - I did and the pump leaked when I first started my bike. Pulled the pump out and stripped it - ceramic seal cracked... was supposedly all new! The 3 ‘o’ rings and the oil seal are available - look at CMSNL to get the sizes, then go to a seal supplier. The Suzuki ceramic water seal isn’t available but ya just nee d to buy a Kawasaki seal for £18. I have the part number somewhere - will find it and drop it on here. Key thing is the condition of the pump impeller shaft - usually very corroded around the impeller area and where the little circlip fits. It’s also where everyone grabs the shaft with a pair of pliers to extract the pump. Have a mod. for that also to save spending many many hours unsuccessfully trying to find a good shaft. There is a handy trick to help remove the pump also in the future - drilling a hole in the top crankcase in line with the shaft centre line. Can then drift the pump out of the lower case - hole tapped for and is plugged with an M6 bolt and sealing washer. Get on to the Kettle club forum - lots of good info there. Other things would be the SRIS unions at the front of the lower crankcase, the oil pump, the lines, and the banjo bolts, assuming you are keeping the oil pump. All hard to source or repair. I didn’t have to do that as I changed the crank and rods to allow me to use premix. Very interesting!!!!!!!!! Well done for posting that. I would be interested to know the part number for the Kawasaki seal too. |
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drix
L plate rider.
Posts: 12
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Post by drix on Jun 8, 2022 13:05:45 GMT 1
That’s good. That’s most of the annoying bits of the engine sorted! Some other I remember .
Original crankcase bolts (have an S on the head) - given yer not building a factory perfect concours GT750, if any of the crankcase bolts are ok give them a wire brush and flog them on eBay - I was surprised at how quick mine sold - the Kettle guys love them.
Start looking for the engine rubber mounts. Took me a while to get a new set, although a lot of the 2nd hand ones out there are fine with just the bonded washer missing. Check the large dia. water bung at the front of the lower c/case - it may need a little skim off the head so it comes out when engine is in the frame, easily checked with the lower case set in the frame... or drill for and fit a smaller bolt into the head of it. Makes it easy to drain it down.
Neutral detent spring - under a bung beside the gearbox oil drain bung but at an angle. Fit a GS400/450 spring - slightly more spring pressure on the detent button so neutral is easier. The orig. spring is probably knackered anyway.
Decide if you are going to keep the Suzuki gear indicator switch - if not now is the time to make a blanking plate (I think the shaft on the end of the selector drum needs trimmed but can’t remember...).
Use a genuine Suzuki rev counter cable (assuming yer not going electric) it’s the only one that fits, and has the seal in it at the engine end. I bought two cheapo ones of Fleabay and both were crap.
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drix
L plate rider.
Posts: 12
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Post by drix on Jun 8, 2022 13:07:20 GMT 1
Will dig it out. Don’t have it on my iPad (am on hols at the mo.) but know I have it filed away on my home PC...
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 8, 2022 14:28:42 GMT 1
Won't be using a gear position indicator
Its an early 73 motor so didn't have it anyway.
I will keep the neutral switch though
Good advice on the detent spring and rev counter 👌
Steve
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drix
L plate rider.
Posts: 12
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Post by drix on Jun 9, 2022 10:14:37 GMT 1
Read back through the thread. All very interesting. It will be a cracking bike. Some more thoughts / info.
Gearing. If you use the Nova stuff you’ll find 1st is very high. That and the peaky engine means I’ve got to scream mine off the mark, like an early TZ, and that’s with 15/40 final drive sprockets, which I think comes out at 150mph or so at 8300 in top. The 5th gear pair should be the same as the early GT750 unless Nova have changed things since I bought the shaft and 1st gear off them a few years ago. The later GTs had a higher 5th gear ratio.
It’s an easy job to swap the gears over, just need to press off 2nd gear and press it onto the new shaft. There’s a length quoted for that in Haynes...
What I’ve noticed is the thing takes off at 5800/6000rpm and Zing! yer at 8000. Much fun! And no terrible vibes. It feels smooth. (But then I’m used to a Drixton 500 Honda or my bro’s Manx).
The stock clutch may complain because of the power increase. That’s why the factory bikes had 3 different types of dry clutch over a few years, all attempts at stopping it slipping. The BDK version is a copy of the last of those. I haven’t had any issues with it, although the lever action is heavy; it sounds nice, when I can hear it with the silencers fitted. (And as you know the clutch is only £3.5k...🤣🤣🤣).
Running on straight stinger pipes would wake the dead, it’s a very sharp sound, like an old TD or TR Yamaha - hurts yer ears! Only did that once... earplugs anytime it’s unsilenced now. My silencers are about 240mm long by 63mm dia. and just get it below 105dB. The ones fitted in my pic of the finished bike we’re 200mm long and above 105dB.
Tank mounting - use some 4mm rubber ribbed sheet not the universal tank rubbers as they’re too thick and the tank doesn’t sit right on the frame. Front is held on with two 1970s Suzuki RM 250 straps that are on wire hooks around the frame tubes. I’ll post a pic of those. Make sure you fit a decent fuel tap - these things suck fuel at an alarming rate, you need the tap to keep up with the carb float valves - check the flow rate of those.
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Post by tony2stroke on Jun 9, 2022 11:07:53 GMT 1
I just love reading stuff like this, thanks for sharing |
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drix
L plate rider.
Posts: 12
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Post by drix on Jun 9, 2022 11:54:07 GMT 1
I just love reading stuff like this, thanks for sharing  Hehe. And thanks for the comment. Always happy sharing what I learned doing my bike. I could bore ya to tears with all the data gathering and research I did. Have about 300 pics of the build, and something like 116 CAD models and drawings for all the bits I made... The biggest risk was making the brake calipers. Can’t get the originals, so I created CAD models from pictures, and took a punt to get them made in China. The seal groove size and shape was a bugger to figure out. The biggest surprise was that it started and ran well on the first attempt! |
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Post by tony2stroke on Jun 9, 2022 13:22:52 GMT 1
I just love reading stuff like this, thanks for sharing Hehe. And thanks for the comment. Always happy sharing what I learned doing my bike. I could bore ya to tears with all the data gathering and research I did. Have about 300 pics of the build, and something like 116 CAD models and drawings for all the bits I made... The biggest risk was making the brake calipers. Can’t get the originals, so I created CAD models from pictures, and took a punt to get them made in China. The seal groove size and shape was a bugger to figure out. The biggest surprise was that it started and ran well on the first attempt! That's teasing that is, now I want to see and read all about it. Be nice to see a thread on here about it, I am sure plenty of others would like to see it too, just look how many have looked at this thread. |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 9, 2022 16:14:06 GMT 1
Agree with above
Start a rebuild thread on your build 👍
Steve
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drix
L plate rider.
Posts: 12
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Post by drix on Jun 12, 2022 12:07:40 GMT 1
Ok, so if I do start a thread on my TR750 build, is there an easy way to load pics from my home PC? All the info etc is ordered and easily accessed on it....
Is there an simpler way to upload pics here when I log on using my desktop PC, rather than Tapatalk?...(Am not the sharpest tool in the drawer re. this sort of stuff!)
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Post by tony2stroke on Jun 12, 2022 12:26:48 GMT 1
Ok, so if I do start a thread on my TR750 build, is there an easy way to load pics from my home PC? All the info etc is ordered and easily accessed on it.... Is there an simpler way to upload pics here when I log on using my desktop PC, rather than Tapatalk?...(Am not the sharpest tool in the drawer re. this sort of stuff!) I use my PC for writing, and my mobile phone to post pics via tapatalk, only just worked that out myself after a few years trying  Other than that a photo sharing site. |
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drix
L plate rider.
Posts: 12
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Post by drix on Jun 12, 2022 13:25:24 GMT 1
That’s seems like quite a bit of hassle. I assume I’d have to somehow transfer the 300 pics on to my phone and then across on to the thread. Sounds like a bit of a PIA, to be honest...
I do have a P/point pic pack (about 40 slides) that’s in chronological order and has a couple of words describing each pic... maybe I could chuck that on here.
Anyway, I play with it all when I get back home (2 weeks from now) see what I can do.
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 12, 2022 18:57:18 GMT 1
I tried Tapatalk but couldn't get on with it. I take pics with my phone then upload them to my desktop Pc, to store them. I then upload the pics for the forum to Flikr, and then copy and paste into the thread. I find that really easy, and I'm not that computer literate  Would be great to see your build thread - it's a beautiful bike Dusty |
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drix
L plate rider.
Posts: 12
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Post by drix on Jun 13, 2022 11:42:48 GMT 1
That sounds better...
I’ll give it a whizz when I get back home.
And Ta for the compliments, much appreciated.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 20, 2022 13:32:12 GMT 1
4 pull throttle finally arrived Steve   |
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 20, 2022 19:46:14 GMT 1
He does make some exquisite parts. That looks lovely |
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