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Post by Shytalk on Feb 24, 2022 18:21:44 GMT 1
No, Mallow's just getting forgetful in old age I think.
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 24, 2022 17:34:40 GMT 1
Is there supposed to be a link somewhere?
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 23, 2022 18:30:22 GMT 1
There’s nothing wrong with that, a few bits different from a standard LC2 but essentially its an LC2, the barrels are the correct 31K ones, and the indicators are from a later model as already mentioned, same with the clocks, a bit harsh to say its a BITSA for sure.
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 20, 2022 17:41:15 GMT 1
Another suggestion is to amend the title of the add, saying SORTED or SOLD etc when it is, saves actually going into the post to find out.
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Post by Shytalk on Feb 15, 2022 13:16:45 GMT 1
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Post by Shytalk on Jan 26, 2022 10:48:23 GMT 1
Oh and I just fit the gaskets dry Steve If anything other than dry, a thin smear of grease is good to use, unless you have seriously warped / damaged surfaces you don't need anything.
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Post by Shytalk on Jan 26, 2022 10:46:11 GMT 1
i have one cut from a old frame This is what you need and splice it into your frame.
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Post by Shytalk on Dec 22, 2021 12:41:10 GMT 1
Its easy......................you can do this standing on your head
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Post by Shytalk on Dec 9, 2021 10:15:35 GMT 1
I'm no expert either but, could it be that you have the incorrect springs fitted, the brackets look the same in all the pictures, the stand has a bit of slop in it but even so I'd have thought that if the springs were the correct length and strength then the stand would have to retract once the bike was lifted off it, so maybe the thin long spring is too long - looks longer in the diagrams - possibly UK variant, and / or the main thick / short spring is wrong. Looking at the bolt though - I think if you put that on and use that as the fixing point for the spring bracket then it will be even worse - as there is going to be less spring tension applied, just my thoughts.
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Post by Shytalk on Nov 24, 2021 16:53:27 GMT 1
I may be reading this wrong but surely the vacuum pipe needs to be there to draw fuel, nothing to do with pre-mix. Hiya,thanks for the reply ,my brain is a bit puddled at the mo due to man flu!its set up with a low pressure electronic pump and a regulator running one psi,so no need for vac take off Nice - rules out that - wondered how the plugs were wet too without it
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Post by Shytalk on Nov 24, 2021 13:08:16 GMT 1
vacuum pipe is blocked off as I'm using premix I may be reading this wrong but surely the vacuum pipe needs to be there to draw fuel, nothing to do with pre-mix.
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Post by Shytalk on Nov 16, 2021 11:29:38 GMT 1
Limited choice, way too expensive and where's the infrastructure to charge them? trickle charge will take 8+ hours, super fast charge will be mega expensive. I often drive past these huge airfields full of new cars and wonder where the heck they all go to, there must be thousands of unsold cars sitting in fields/ aerodromes that won't ever get sold but they still get churned out.
As for driving them, you don't really drive these hybrids / electric cars now, you just steer them and press the accelerator and brake pedals.
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Post by Shytalk on Nov 16, 2021 11:18:39 GMT 1
Nowt wrong with kilts it’s the ginger hair that goes with it. No no no that's a horrible image to portray its the under kilt ginger - bag of sprouts image.
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Post by Shytalk on Nov 15, 2021 17:04:24 GMT 1
Mine is direct drive. Its the twin clutch dsg gearbox 7 speed, with no torque converter. Think of it as a manual gearbox but with auto change. Think my new one will be better as will be the same as yours I was told the old one I have is actually a manual box and a normal clutch but controlled by solenoids It's fine for city and motorway but I don't like it on back roads It either drops gears as soon as you touch the throttle or changes up every time you lift off for a bend or a crest then has to drop back down when you go back on the power Better sticking it in manual and using the steering wheel paddles but still a delay between asking and getting a gear Even in manual if you floor it it will change into the lowest possible gear. No good when you just want a bit of grunt It makes 400nm between 2 and 3.5k revs. It doesn't need to drop a bloody gear 🙄 Steve The other thing Steve is there'll be a few different selectable driving modes to choose from as well, you'll find one that suits.
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Post by Shytalk on Oct 22, 2021 14:27:10 GMT 1
Depends on what the condition of the metal is really, IF they are already powder coated then Vapour Blasting won't get them back to bare metal, IF they are standard then it may well do, Vapour will just clean up the look, if there's any defects it won't hide or clear it up. Powder coaters will do all the work, might be worth putting old screws in the threaded parts and you'd need to give the insides a thorough clean out afterwards. You can always have a go at paint stripper and semi polish them, a few on here have posted good results in doing this, give it a go, if it turns out poor then powder coat them.
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Post by Shytalk on Oct 12, 2021 14:57:46 GMT 1
Hi guys as title says any recommendations thanks Contact Mike Cookson at jbrplastics.co.uk/plastic-welding.htmlMike is a member of this forum but I'll be damned if I can remember his username. OEB Isn't he hailseizure
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Post by Shytalk on Oct 5, 2021 10:14:28 GMT 1
Double check the kill switch and that the coil to frame earth is good.
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Post by Shytalk on Oct 2, 2021 18:54:21 GMT 1
What colour are you going to paint it?
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Post by Shytalk on Sept 28, 2021 9:18:39 GMT 1
That's a big boys toy actually
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Post by Shytalk on Sept 25, 2021 12:15:29 GMT 1
You really need one of the tools available to remove the connections from the blocks, some are easily done with a small flat blade screwdriver but the round ones really need the proper tool to do it without damage. Do a search on here as it’s been covered many times in the past.
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Post by Shytalk on Sept 8, 2021 18:05:57 GMT 1
Ha, that’s probably Steve’s original damaged one recycled 🤔
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Post by Shytalk on Sept 3, 2021 19:36:07 GMT 1
Ideally remove the radiator from the bike and test on the bench or floor.
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Post by Shytalk on Aug 27, 2021 15:55:56 GMT 1
Soak them in petrol or diesel.
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Post by Shytalk on Aug 23, 2021 10:52:51 GMT 1
How do I show pictures on here There's a guide here - link
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Post by Shytalk on Aug 22, 2021 12:42:30 GMT 1
There’s a proper fairing bracket on eBay currently item number- 304107578010
That fixes to the frame and the top yolk area and the headlight fixes to it, the fairing has a pivot at the bottom allowing the fairing to tilt forwards.
Belly pan fixes to the frame with 4 fixings that should be still on the frame, if not there then you’ll need to add them using the belly pan holes for reference points.
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Post by Shytalk on Aug 18, 2021 14:10:51 GMT 1
That's absolutely shit got to be an inside job Not good, I had an engine stolen a few years ago, never heard anything about it since.
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Post by Shytalk on Aug 14, 2021 16:40:09 GMT 1
Result.............now get that rusty screw replaced please.
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Post by Shytalk on Aug 14, 2021 16:37:33 GMT 1
Thanks for the replies So it seems I have the correct lenses, ie 2 of the 290005, and 2 of the 290004 type. But two of the backs are reflective and aftermarket. Many Thanks Cables are a giveaway too - the pattern ones are usually wired with a thinner cable and one cable usually will be black, no black cable on any Yamaha original indicator wiring
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Post by Shytalk on Aug 14, 2021 12:01:48 GMT 1
If its only fogged slightly any of the above will work, takes a bit of time, if its too deep then you won't recover it by polishing.
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Post by Shytalk on Aug 8, 2021 21:25:28 GMT 1
Kill switch okay?
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