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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 10, 2021 21:31:37 GMT 1
Am I right in thinking the sprocket nut is the same thread? Steve I'm not sure i knocked up a few titanium nuts for the 8 plate clutch i'm using clutch so this nut is redundant.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 10, 2021 21:28:05 GMT 1
Very nice i'm looking forward to this.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 10, 2021 21:23:53 GMT 1
I'd guess it's because he has reduced the inner hub with a thinner thrust washer the splines are proud of the hub face the centre bolt mates with Steve I am not sure if my english but the bolt hit the splines instead of the hub. Oh i understand now. Send me the nut and i will send you one of these.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 9, 2021 23:41:54 GMT 1
I cut a washer for an 8 plate clutch. Hi Marrcel what was the reason for cutting the locking tab?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 9, 2021 23:38:09 GMT 1
I have two radiators which i constantly use, but they are not the same. One is for a 4LO engine and the other for a YPVS engine, i am constantly chainging radiators to suit the engine. I'm not so keen on this so a while ago i got these knocked up. A good friend who works abroad a lot is now home so he managed to weld a fitting into one of my rads. This means i dont have to change this one any more It's currently destined to cool a 4LO engine so it is now fitted with the plug.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 22:02:51 GMT 1
Thanks Matt this is the test bike for different things i make or have ideas about. The Bakker engine is complete and ready to roll so i dont want to open it up. Once i'm happy with the clutch it will be fitted into the Bakker engine with a different modded clutch casing. It will be more open for cooling.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 21:37:02 GMT 1
I am glad to see some pictures of your progress. How did you made the dry casing? My 8 plate clutch is finished but not installed. Before i change the 7 plate clutch i will test some stiffer springs first. It's just a drum welded into the normal casing.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 21:26:28 GMT 1
If i posted this correct if you click on the picture it should lead you to the video on my Flickr page.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 19:51:57 GMT 1
Is that affiliated to the french magazine called cafe racer? Yes, it's a great festival.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 19:00:37 GMT 1
Well I've started it up and i am very very happy. It has instantly made me biased and got me thinking about all the mods we do on our clutches. (chasing our own tails?) Not sure where to begin but here goes. Firstly i degreased 6 Standard old friction plates and fitted them into the clutch assembly. I did this because i was afraid i might get some oil leakages and didn't want to ruin my new dry plate frictions. No leaks so far. I started it up and apart from the noise, i instantly noticed the rear wheel was still. This was the first surprise, i grabbed the wheel and give it a spin and it reacted normally and stopped again. The dry clutch has no influence on the drive when in neutral. The clutch lever action at present has the same amount of resistance as fresh air. One finger operation, this wont last long. At present i think the preload on the springs is too light. I'm pretty sure this clutch will slip when given a handfull but it was dark and raining when i gave it a test drive. It pulled away like normal but i was concentrating on the action etc. Only a pootle tonight. The second surprise is the gear change. Not sure what to say Super Slick! maybe too slick as it changed gear as soon as foot touched it. This engine has none of the gear mods just bog standard Yamaha parts. Selecting neutral is so easy it's almost telepathic. The action has changed so much it's hard to describe. I will probably start to cringe now when i read new posts where someone has modified the gear change star. I want one for my road bike now Ive got some video and will post it up later.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 10:39:35 GMT 1
That looks like Montlhery south of Paris. That circuit is on my bucket list. Love to do there and chimay and other continental roads. π The easiest way to get to ride Montlhery is through the Cafe Racer Festival. Next year so far on the list is the Rockanje Classic TT. It's just a couple of minutes up the road from me. As long as covid does't scare everyone away!
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 9:32:12 GMT 1
It was hand made by the Garden Gnome Racing Corporation, this makes it expensive.
At this time of the year they don't seem to be so active which also pushes the prices of their products up.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 6, 2021 9:20:48 GMT 1
What a beauty! Here's another.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 5, 2021 22:14:25 GMT 1
That looks like Montlhery south of Paris. That circuit is on my bucket list.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 5, 2021 22:09:39 GMT 1
Personally i prefer the High Performance Booster Pipe. This out performs the Boost Bottle at high rpm's and is very light. The one shown in the picture was expensive, but it's made from a carbon/kevlar plastic polymide. If i didn't know that i would think it was a piece of garden hose.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 5, 2021 21:45:21 GMT 1
nice one , glad to see your still pushing on with the beautiful Bakker bike mart Hi Mart the Bakker project is still prority 1.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 5, 2021 21:42:14 GMT 1
...and there is room in front of the rear wheel for a NOS bottle.... Very true Rob but i think Tim has got a point with the Cafe Racer culture. They wouldn't appreciate a nos bottle, i will be better accepted if i fit an expresso machine in that space.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 5, 2021 9:59:17 GMT 1
That swingarm looks nearly as long as an RGV one.... ;-) Thanks i was worried it might look too long
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 5, 2021 0:14:20 GMT 1
I like the swing arm
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 4, 2021 23:59:27 GMT 1
The Bakker project is still going ahead but basically i'm waiting to run it on the track to do some shake down tests etc. Also i have turned my attention to making and modifying the engine components to be lighter. The 8 friction plate clutch is working without problems. Not much to show for that one, its nice to have a nice standard clutch action that handles around 70 PK. After maybe 2 years I'm finally in a position to try out my MK1 dry clutch (not made by me personally, it has been two different people). Its fitted to a test enginge for trials on the road to see how it performs/leaks . Hopefully tomorow or Monday it will be up and running. Its running 2.53:1 primaries and the standard RD water pump set up. I can run the oil pump in theory as i have also got a gear wheel for the normal oil pump. Just need to get in touch with Gary for the fine details of oil delivery if i decide to use this option. It has been made for the Bakker project but can be used on a road going YPVS engine if wanted. You can see that the clutch is totally surrounded by the engine casing. I will probably cut a large proportion of this away to aid cooling and to stop clutch plate dust building up. I have no experiance of dy clutches so it will be a case of suck it and see. This engine casing is in nice condition so this one will stay as it is. Ive also made jigs and tools to easily make another dry clutch casing and will use one of my mullered casings to make the stripped down version for the Bakker project. Another ongoing project is a slightly longer swing arm to help keep the nose of the RD on the ground during sprints. Made for the Rotterdam Dirt Event. Now ftted to the bike and waiting for a better back wheel then i can fit the bracing and chain tensioner/guide.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Dec 3, 2021 23:15:45 GMT 1
I don't see your inner clutch hub moving? It should also slide up and down the input shaft splines easily. Is this causing the problem?
It just so happens that i am in clutch mode at the moment.
The two thick thrust washers that have been mentioned should be 3mm thick each.
The primary gear wheel and kickstart gear wheel when correctly assembled should be about 34.5 mm deep/long. The kickstart gear is pressed into the primary gear wheel. The bronze/steel bush holds both parts together when fully assembled the bush should sit roughly 1.0 mm inside the outer edges of the assembled gears.
The brozne/steel bush is 32.7 mm long.
The steel insert that fits around the input shaft and in the bronze/steel bush is 35.0 mm long.
The thickness of the inner basket/hub is 17.0 mm long/deep
Once the locking tab and nut is fitted the whole assembly should pull up tight also pulling the input shaft into place. You should feel no axial movement of the input shaft but you should feel some axial movement of the outer clutch basket (this varies but not more than 0.50 mm guesstimate) also some radial movement due to the tolerance of the bronze/steel bush. This is needed for the oil film/fluid wedge or whatever you like to call it.
i hope this gives you some reference points to pin point your problem.
Robbies suggestion about making a thicker thrust washer sounds like the way forward if you find incorrect parts.
What make primaries are you using? I only know of three makes Liberty gears, Nova and home grown Norbo primaries. All of these primaries fit without problems you are showing in your video.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 29, 2021 20:53:50 GMT 1
I've never really paid attention to the pressure as i have always used different presses.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 29, 2021 20:07:16 GMT 1
What alovely side stand accesory
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 28, 2021 20:00:57 GMT 1
The re riveting process should be done in a press. Yes, not with a lump hammer although demonstrated by some folks who ought to know betterβ¦. Eh guilty your honor, in my defence it has only been once.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 28, 2021 19:43:32 GMT 1
Hi giggsey, if your basket is ok i would suggest getting in touch with Gorden Jones from TZ350.co.uk. Ring him and have a chat. The re riveting process should be done in a press.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 23, 2021 20:36:54 GMT 1
Tobyjugs will be happy anyway, there isnt a block under the side stand and it doesnt look ready to fall over π€£ Steve Funny you should mention that have you seen the picture of the Teezer Matt has with a block of wood under the side stand
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 20, 2021 18:40:47 GMT 1
Jon if you put it under a strong magnifying glass it very easy to see the differences.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 16, 2021 14:46:39 GMT 1
I've have a leak in this place I just cleaned the dimple prepped it and added more liquid metal. I used Wencom for no other reason than I can get it for free.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 14, 2021 18:34:36 GMT 1
Welcome to the forum
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 14, 2021 16:38:07 GMT 1
I recessed the outside thrust washers into the webb's and pressed the pins further in. That's exactly what I meant Good to see it worked π Steve We will have to get it running first π
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