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Post by shaunthe2nd on May 2, 2024 21:48:18 GMT 1
Very sad. Maybe avoidable. Who knows. Rip. At least died doing something he loved.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 29, 2024 12:12:40 GMT 1
Sounds like a Result. I'm guessing that there was friction in the cable connector that was causing some snatching of the needle movement.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 28, 2024 20:23:50 GMT 1
Screeching is easily solved as nearly always a dry bush on the cable inlet. Take tacho (or speedo off), clean all the old grease and crap off the underside off the cable entry, and drop in a little bit of 3 in 1 oil or similar. Spin up the tacho for a minute or so to allow it to penetrate, and leave clock upside drown overnight. Don't over oil, but a little will solve the problem. Spin up again before fitting and hopefully all is silent and moving easily.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 28, 2024 11:23:29 GMT 1
If its 4L0 you have to remove black under casing and the mount bracket to remove the tacho. The tacho wiring sub loom comes out with it, no need to remove speedo sub loom nor centre lights sub loom.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 28, 2024 9:31:00 GMT 1
Is it quite a common thing then Shaun Yes.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 28, 2024 9:02:40 GMT 1
Normally the damper fluid leaks all over the rotating bell causing needle movement stiction too. Quite common in these old tachos and speedos.
Assuming its for a 4L1/0 You should be able to re-use the temp gauge which is screwed to the tacho mechanism, but you would need to replace that part in full. You still use your existing bezel, glass, housing, needle and facia.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 28, 2024 8:32:07 GMT 1
I didn't have time to watch the 14 min video, but normally if a tacho starts fluctuating, and you have checked that its not the cable snatching, and its well lubricated, then most likely because the internal damper has discharged and not functioning, and maybe the spring is worn too. Easiest is to replace the mechanism with one from a donor clock. I haven't found a way to refill the damper fluid.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 23, 2024 20:19:32 GMT 1
First time on this site I've used lubricated, kinks and nips in the same sentence without a moderator warning!
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 23, 2024 20:18:39 GMT 1
Is throttle cable lubricated and routed without kinks or nips?
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 21, 2024 23:03:54 GMT 1
I usually use a bearing puller or you can draw out with a bolt similar to what Dusty says. Looks a bit of a mess now, hope you get sorted. Shaun.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 21, 2024 10:46:31 GMT 1
And how slow when the filter is half full of crap.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 21, 2024 10:44:55 GMT 1
Yes can do that for you. Send me a PM.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 17, 2024 19:34:11 GMT 1
Poor fella, he's had 2 strokes and now in a centre. It will be the drugs he's on.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 17, 2024 18:15:47 GMT 1
It's sounds like you covered that then. I assume getting enough fuel and no blockage in filter or fuel pipes. Does throttle tube and throttle cable allow full opening of carb slides? No blockage in air box, left a cleaning rag inside? Might be worth removing rubbers between carbs and airbix temporary to check. Are exhausts carboned up? Can you try alternatives? If it's not fuel, air or exhaust then prob electrical. I'm sure the more qualified can provide some further insights. Good luck with it.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 17, 2024 13:00:28 GMT 1
Muttsnuts supplies and fits these I think.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 16, 2024 18:18:07 GMT 1
I've not read the full thread for a while but did you do a full balls out clean of the carbs Inc air correction circuit?
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 16, 2024 13:47:30 GMT 1
Sometimes they clean up using a soft cloth or tissue on the end of a bit of bent wire from inside. Also, if you also paint the dimple in the slide (I use red, some people paint white or yellow) then they become more visible when syncing carbs. If not, then as above you can fit replacements.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 15, 2024 20:22:11 GMT 1
IMG_0258 by peter fletcher, on Flickr IMG_0260 by peter fletcher, on Flickr New clock covers and headlight bowl today. wasnt a bad job and everything went smoothly enough. Old tat to be put in the for sale section shortly. Nice job, and clocks correctly mounted too. I saw the comment re the cable diverter. I'm guessing that's a mph overlay, not sure how close to standard you want to go, but usually that's a sign of a partially converted km clock. Keep an eye out to see if the odometer has been converted to miles, if not that will trip over in kms and looks like you have been further than you thought. The other is ghosting through of the old digits when riding at night. Both of these drive a few people potty. Me included!
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 15, 2024 15:52:54 GMT 1
Looks a great project to me, have taken on much worse as I know plenty others have too. If it has all the parts then that is a big saving on time and money sourcing, but my guess is that there will be quite a bit missing or needing replacing. Interested to see what it makes, it's already beyond what I would pay if I was looking for a project, which I'm not!
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 14, 2024 12:16:48 GMT 1
I was hanging an internal door yesterday and looks like the hinge pin would be a good starting point to make one if you have an old hinge.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 11, 2024 13:31:28 GMT 1
I made one. Easy enough to do. Buy a short rod of correct diameter steel. I think I used a mecanno bit from memory! Heat one end and hammer a 'head' onto it. Measure correct length, cut to size, and drill small hole at the other end for the P clip.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 8, 2024 19:53:58 GMT 1
I'm away at the moment so haven't got access to the service manual. From memory, normal temp range is circa 50-80deg C and when it gets to 100deg plus that's when it's overheating. Hopefully someone will confirm.
When you do get overheating it tends to be a slow process and you will see the gauge slowly creep up over a few mins, not instantaneous. Its like boiling a kettle, takes a while!
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 8, 2024 18:49:07 GMT 1
Dusty I use the like button often, but sometimes we need an 'unlike' button. See above!
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 8, 2024 16:00:23 GMT 1
Sensor or wiring problem I reckon. When you put 12v across 2 of the temp gauge terminals that's what you see, and how I test usually. It's easy enough to put a laser temp gun to the cylinders to check it's not over heating. My experience with the 4L1 guage is that they either work, or don't. When they don't they usually sit at zero and don't move.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 8, 2024 15:52:50 GMT 1
Is it just me or is there a face on the underside of that tank?
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 7, 2024 15:25:30 GMT 1
Lovely job mate, as Mary Berry says, itβs all in the preparation ππ You need to carefully plan when the missus is out he means!
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 2, 2024 15:26:44 GMT 1
Welcome to the forum. Plenty of good advice here too. Simon has done a few locks for me in the past, and a good way of achieving 1 key for all locks. Enjoy the ride outs and be prepared for the attention it brings. Its like having a hot girlfriend.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Mar 28, 2024 23:37:28 GMT 1
Did it have the centre spread of midgets with Magnum moustashes in leopardskin leotards on raleigh choppers, or am I thinking of a diferent issue?
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Mar 26, 2024 19:23:10 GMT 1
Are you sure its not "wall art" and just missing the clock? That is shocking quality. Not sure how easy it would be to return one IF you purchased one. It's more Picasso than Da Vinci!
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Mar 26, 2024 16:03:39 GMT 1
I would be checking it's connected properly to the oil pump and delivering oil correctly to the carbs. Hope the scaping isn't the sound of dry pistons sliding up and down the barrels.
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