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Post by masonmart on Feb 2, 2023 1:27:34 GMT 1
I'm in Malaysia at the moment but a couple of weeks before coming, I bought a 1986 F1 in boxes which had had decent money spent on frame, tank and panel painting but had come to a halt due to lack of time and motivation. Managed to get the engine split, crank in for rebuilding and casings for coating and am looking forward now to getting back and finishing it this summer. basengine by Martin Mason, on Flickr Have ordered all bearings and seals, the crank upgrade comes with new con rods, big end bearings and pins, new main bearings, new inner crank web and various other bearings and seals. Amazingly just had word that it's finished . My mission is to build the bike back as it was when sold, running and looking exactly as it did then. I'm not so good at this work, an attitude problem really of wanting to finish work quickly but with help I'm really hoping to do a reasonable job on this.
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Post by JonW on Feb 2, 2023 1:29:48 GMT 1
Thats a very tiny pic, but useful info is that if you add the IMG tags before n after it, then it'll show on the forum.
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Post by masonmart on Feb 2, 2023 1:34:22 GMT 1
Thanks Jon, first time so please excuse. When you say IMG tags, what are they?
MM
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Post by JonW on Feb 2, 2023 1:50:22 GMT 1
Thanks Jon, first time so please excuse. When you say IMG tags, what are they? MM No worries, Im just 'educating' lol (FWIW Id be an awful teacher as those whove met me would attest lol) So... in front of the line about the pic you write IMG in square brackets, at the end of the line you write the same but with a / before the word IMG. The idea here is that youre telling the internet that what follows is an IMAGE, then at the end you are saying 'thats the end of the image'. If you want to see this, click on REPLY to my post where the photo is shown and look at the text line it shows there as its written in full.
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 2, 2023 9:23:56 GMT 1
Looking forward to your progress. Enjoy the journey Dusty
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Post by arrdy350 on Feb 2, 2023 11:14:13 GMT 1
Nice to see another F1 being saved 👍 Enjoy the build 😀
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Post by masonmart on Feb 2, 2023 11:58:12 GMT 1
Thank you RD and Dusty. I'm old school (well, just old) really and have spent all my bike time doing older bikes from a generation before the YPVS. My great wish is to use and enjoy one of these wonderful bikes.
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Post by Mr Kipling on Feb 2, 2023 12:28:40 GMT 1
Nice project u have there , keep us all updated with pic,s of progress etc....
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Post by masonmart on Feb 2, 2023 12:39:32 GMT 1
Thanks and a question. The finish on the crankcases which were uncoated I believe isn't so good even after blasting. It isn't easily visible when the bike is together but should I coat it?
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Post by masonmart on Feb 17, 2023 4:22:27 GMT 1
I have the engine coated and the crank restored and am looking forward to end of March when I can get back and start assembling the bike. One of the first jobs I need to do is get the wheels on the chassis and will first need to change the wheel bearings and seals. I have a heat gun but is it easy to drift the bearings out or would people recommend a bearing puller?
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Post by JonW on Feb 17, 2023 8:17:20 GMT 1
Its much easier with a puller, or even a bearing 'pusher' like the kits on ebay than just bashing away... tho that will work.
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Post by masonmart on Feb 17, 2023 8:32:44 GMT 1
Its much easier with a puller, or even a bearing 'pusher' like the kits on ebay than just bashing away... tho that will work. Thanks JonW, wasn't aware of these pusher kits but will have a look now.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 17, 2023 9:44:51 GMT 1
To be honest although I have a puller kit I've never used it on wheel bearings
Decent set of drift bars and they come out easy
Especially with the discs off as you can get the hub supported on a couple of wooden blocks
Doing it at an angle with the tyre on just absorbs most of the impact
Steve
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Post by JonW on Feb 17, 2023 9:45:49 GMT 1
yeah the pusher kit is a weird one, its a split collet that you expand from the other side with a rod that looks like a flat blade screwdriver. you then can whack on that to push it out.
The reason it works ok on wheel bearings is that there often isnt anywhere to get an expanding puller under the bearing to pull it until youve got the first one out.
In the old days we didnt have pullers just big hammers and drifts... there are many ways to do this...
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Post by masonmart on Feb 17, 2023 10:26:57 GMT 1
Sorry for sounding dumb on this and I've done it several times but just wondered if there were better ways than hammering them out. I'd like to do this resto well and there's still a lot I can learn.
Any recommendations on heating guns, I had a £20 one but it failed quickly.
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element137
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Post by element137 on Feb 17, 2023 13:37:26 GMT 1
yeah the pusher kit is a weird one, its a split collet that you expand from the other side with a rod that looks like a flat blade screwdriver. you then can whack on that to push it out. The reason it works ok on wheel bearings is that there often isnt anywhere to get an expanding puller under the bearing to pull it until youve got the first one out. In the old days we didnt have pullers just big hammers and drifts... there are many ways to do this... I had epic battle with wheel bearings on my LC2 resto - tried drifting them out - but the spacer that sits between the bearings made it too difficult to get any purchase on the bearing lip from inside out - then tried a bearing puller ( not a cheap one either ) but was a complete fail - would not grip the bearing - finally used the spilt collet design JonW mentions ( pro-tool kit) very expensive for what it is - but with plenty of heat from a cheapo heat gun - removed them really easily in the end - good luck with it - it seems everyone has a slightly different experience on this task - I spent weeks on this - very , very, satisfying though when they break free !
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Post by masonmart on Feb 22, 2023 4:55:19 GMT 1
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Post by lcmarky on Feb 22, 2023 9:59:11 GMT 1
Good to see another build thread - my favourite part of this excellent forum!
Keep us posted and lots of pics!!
Good Luck & remember to set a budget and treble it!!
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Post by masonmart on Feb 22, 2023 11:43:01 GMT 1
Good to see another build thread - my favourite part of this excellent forum! Keep us posted and lots of pics!! Good Luck & remember to set a budget and treble it!! Hi and thanks lcm. I normally budget £10k for a full restoration but the lad who owned it has spent a lot already coating the frame tank and panels, he had bought a new rear shock, the clocks are new or restored and the front forks are restored. On the downside the wiring harness isn't there and other bits may be missing although he had done a good job of the disassembly. So! should be within £5k. Rebuilding the crank and engine with new parts and recoating the casings and covers has cost me around £1000. I have a lot of parts in for coating as yet unpaid for and I've spent around £600 so far with Norbo and Yambits for parts and I had to pay £250 for a loom which may need more work. The key thing now is how more coating may need to be done but otherwise it is 100% free time by the retired me. If I can do it for £5k to the required quality then, as a matching number bike, and the general firmness in prices for LC's it may be the first time for me that the final product balances the costs? I'll be into gear when I get home end of March but there's a lot to do even from over here.
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Post by lcmarky on Feb 22, 2023 12:43:10 GMT 1
I don't even think about the costs now - completely given up on that!
Be really wary of the crap that Yambits sell & as you already know Norbo is your go to.
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Post by Jona on Feb 22, 2023 15:49:45 GMT 1
yeah the pusher kit is a weird one, its a split collet that you expand from the other side with a rod that looks like a flat blade screwdriver. you then can whack on that to push it out. The reason it works ok on wheel bearings is that there often isnt anywhere to get an expanding puller under the bearing to pull it until youve got the first one out. In the old days we didnt have pullers just big hammers and drifts... there are many ways to do this... I had epic battle with wheel bearings on my LC2 resto - tried drifting them out - but the spacer that sits between the bearings made it too difficult to get any purchase on the bearing lip from inside out - then tried a bearing puller ( not a cheap one either ) but was a complete fail - would not grip the bearing - finally used the spilt collet design JonW mentions ( pro-tool kit) very expensive for what it is - but with plenty of heat from a cheapo heat gun - removed them really easily in the end - good luck with it - it seems everyone has a slightly different experience on this task - I spent weeks on this - very , very, satisfying though when they break free ! I found that something narrow down the spacer and pressed at the end of it, moved it to the side and then it was possible to easily drift one bearing out followed by the other even more easily as the space could be removed after the first one.
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Post by abar121 on Feb 22, 2023 20:31:12 GMT 1
I use one of those big expanding bolt wall fittings. Screw that in tight and pound the bearing out from the other side. Sometimes a bit of a struggle, but then I have a big b*****d hammer for that
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Post by masonmart on Feb 23, 2023 1:19:55 GMT 1
I don't even think about the costs now - completely given up on that! Be really wary of the crap that Yambits sell & as you already know Norbo is your go to. Sorry, didn't know they were dodgy.
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Post by lcmarky on Feb 23, 2023 10:31:38 GMT 1
I don't even think about the costs now - completely given up on that! Be really wary of the crap that Yambits sell & as you already know Norbo is your go to. Sorry, didn't know they were dodgy. Their parts are renowned to be simply awful at times. I don't think they are a dodgy outfit as such, just naff quality!
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Post by JonW on Feb 23, 2023 13:13:23 GMT 1
There are lots of threads about yambits on here, some of them list what is good and what is bad. Worth reading up on.
No need to avoid them completely, just be aware to buy the right parts.
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Post by masonmart on Feb 23, 2023 14:37:17 GMT 1
Thanks for the warning. Luckily the parts for my crank overhaul were bought by the lad who did it and he knows about quality.
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Post by masonmart on Mar 14, 2023 10:44:42 GMT 1
Well, back home a week next Sunday and ready to get my F1 carefully finished. Everything in the engine is new and the engine recoated, carbs are sparkling. Bottom end is together and top end has been mated up to try the parts but waiting on 4 barrel dowel pins coming from Europe before final assembly. All of the engine fittings are stainless, many polished and it looks stunning. Will get final photos up when I get back and can get up the unit to get some good ones. I've sold my boat so that I can give this 100% and I'm hoping 3-4 months ready for commissioning and then a few months riding it before winter comes.
Just an observation and not for argument Yambits have been fantastic in having bits for me when needed and helping me identify bits when there's confusion on my part. As far as I can see their bits are equivalent to original parts and I didn't use them for critical bits like pistons and bearings. Their customer service is absolutely superb. So good to have so many excellent sources for parts like Norbo, Fowlers and Yambits.
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 14, 2023 14:56:47 GMT 1
You have to be very careful what you buy from Shambits. Anything safety critical, engine parts etc are best avoided unless it's genuine Yamaha. Non Yamaha crank seals have been proven to fail with less than a 1000 miles on them, a side stand snapped within minutes of fitting I believe. I bought a side stand spring for my 400 hybrid and that broke less than 24 hours later, and it wasn't even under stress - bike was on a paddock stand and the stand was up ! A lot of the rubber parts are sourced in India, and maybe a lot of other parts too maybe ? I did buy side panel rubbers and clock rubbers for the 400 from them though and they were fine. Do a search - there are many tales on this and other forums of the low quality of some of their parts. Dusty
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Post by jon on Mar 14, 2023 21:01:48 GMT 1
It’s been mentioned loads of times what are known good, and known bad parts from Yambits. It’s been suggested a list be made, which is a good idea IMO. To my knowledge this has never been done? If not I’ll start a thread at the weekend on it.
I’ll start by saying the bits I’ve (and others) have bought that are very poor quality are: Throttle cables Oil seals Side stands
On the flip side I’ve have good experience of: Replacement LC horn buttons LC ignition switch
Bear in Mind this is only my experience, I sure there are many more items for both lists.
Jon
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Post by masonmart on Mar 15, 2023 2:01:33 GMT 1
Thanks for the info, I haven't bought any of these parts so should be fine. What I will say though is that their attitude is good and if they have only 3 or 4 parts that are bad in a stock of thousands it may be better to let them know which parts they are selling that don't meet the right quality standard. A list of the bad parts would be a great idea. In an era of rapidly rising prices it's good to have suppliers competing. Try owning an Avenger or CB77 or many other Japanese bikes from the 60's and 70's where people with spares set their own astronomical prices. Owning an LC is a dream for spares availability.
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