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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Nov 20, 2023 22:56:05 GMT 1
Can it not be saved with an insert?
Usually enough meat left
Steve
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Post by masonmart on Nov 21, 2023 9:13:29 GMT 1
Can it not be saved with an insert? Usually enough meat left Steve Steve, my plan is to take the cylinder(s) off and drill the hole out, tap it to M10 and put in a stepped stud M10 x M8. I'llk know better when I get it apart and can get decent measurements. |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 21, 2023 17:05:55 GMT 1
Or weld it up and prick a new hole in it.
I have the same stepped studs you mention but only to be used in emergency situations.
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Post by masonmart on Nov 22, 2023 10:18:33 GMT 1
Tj, I don't have the welding gear or pillar drill to do it. My thoughts were that it's not a fastener that you use very much just install once and leave and that the Helicoil and non-standard stud would be OK?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 22, 2023 13:23:13 GMT 1
Tj, I don't have the welding gear or pillar drill to do it. My thoughts were that it's not a fastener that you use very much just install once and leave and that the Helicoil and non-standard stud would be OK? I Just think it's not so expensive to repair it and use a standard size stud compared to making sure an M10 stud fits your exhaust flange etc. If i understand you correctly your thinking of putting an M10 helicoil in the cylinder. Take a good look because i dont think theres much room for such a repair/mod. |
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Post by masonmart on Nov 22, 2023 14:16:20 GMT 1
You're correct that it's a good repair method and I'll keep it in mind for sure. The tapping hole for the helicoil is 10.25mm and it's 9.5mm already and there's plenty of room for the helicoil.
I'm going to reinstall the top end Sunday and then wire in the Ignitech CDI and will hopefully finish the bike before December 4 when we go to Malaysia for 4 months out of the cold. I'll do all of the commissioning when I get back next year.
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Post by abar121 on Nov 23, 2023 15:45:35 GMT 1
The left pot on my F1 had obviously been crashed and actually ripped out one stud from the cylinder completely.
I got it welded and tapped by a local engineering firm, it came back like new and did'nt cost much.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Nov 25, 2023 9:46:28 GMT 1
You're correct that it's a good repair method and I'll keep it in mind for sure. The tapping hole for the helicoil is 10.25mm and it's 9.5mm already and there's plenty of room for the helicoil. I'm going to reinstall the top end Sunday and then wire in the Ignitech CDI and will hopefully finish the bike before December 4 when we go to Malaysia for 4 months out of the cold. I'll do all of the commissioning when I get back next year. I miss the warmth  |
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Post by masonmart on Apr 18, 2024 20:23:39 GMT 1
 2 by Martin Mason, on Flickr A Picture with the Ignitech and other bits wired in. I didn't know for ages that you needed a support for the stuff. Still a bit of tidying to do.  1 by Martin Mason, on Flickr The above pic shows the conversion to "Naked" F1 with LC2 front, N1 clocks and Rob's nice polished F1 yoke with the clock mounted bosses removed. The bars are from Norbo.  3 by Martin Mason, on Flickr This is the hand made brackets that I had given to me for the clocks replaced with the corrected N frame for the headlamp and flashers. It was weak so I've reinforced it and painted it. I'm really not far off finished now but the devil is in the detail and the checking. |
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