Felt like doing a bit on the bike today. First job was to reduce the length of the brake lever pedal as the kickstart would have hit it otherwise. Cut it back on the lathe, which made a neat job of it;
Kickstart just misses it now Next job was fitting the new Yam throttle cable to the Pwk's. I knew it wouldn't fit straight on - I had the same issue with the Pwk's on the Cafe bike, but had an idea of how to sort it without too much hassle. I needed to reduce the length of the outer cable on the 2, splitter to carb cables, to enable the inner cables to reach further down into the carbs and connect to the slides. First, I dremmelled off the ferrules;
This enabled the cable to fit into the brass adjusters on the top of the carbs - the ferrules are too big to fit the Pwk adjusters otherwise. With the cables fully seated in the adjusters, I connected up the cable to the slide on one carb to see how much of the outer cover needed cutting back. Quite a lot as it happens - roughly like quarter throttle !
After measuring how far off closed the slide was, I used that measurement to cut back the outer cable, so shortening it but leaving the inner cable the original length. Did one and checked it, then did the other side. Adjusted the cables whilst the carbs were off for sync, then fitted them and connected the throttle end, then double checked the sync again, and all is good Loom next
Last Edit: Feb 28, 2021 22:30:27 GMT 1 by dusty350
Cheers fellas The R6 gear change arm arrived today. I want a "kinked" arm as it needs to sit further away from the casing as the rearset plates are spaced away from the frame. I did use a straight version, but with an ali spacer, which wasn't bad but not ideal, as I wanted to remove any chance of "slop" out of the gear change. If you need a kinked arm for an Lc/Pv/Ac build, I can confirm the R6 is a good fit;
Gear change action is really slick now, so another job ticked off the list. The last main job now is paint. I need to get a couple of single outlet petrol taps off Norbo so I can double check the tank, and then it can all go off for painting. Few other bits to buy, but really not far off now
what year R6 is the gear change arm from ? tia Gazza
Last Edit: Mar 20, 2021 23:02:31 GMT 1 by gazzatt2
Hi Phil, Yes, the standard one would work fine with a narrower swingarm, but the rearsets are spaced away from the frame to clear the wider swingarm, and I felt the angle of the gearchange rod was too extreme to keep the standard lever, hence the "cranked" version. I wanted to keep the rod as straight as possible for more precise gearchanges, and less wear on parts.
Spent a fair bit of time getting it laid out on the frame so it was nice and neat. I ran it up the left side of the headstock - right side would be standard, and this was to keep it neater, due to the throttle cable splitter box and the Banshee coils fitment. Just got to make the connections in the headlight and it's done. I ordered an AGM battery off ebay which should turn up tomorrow, and then I can test the electrics. Add some sealant to the pipe flanges and she'll be ready to start up for the first time. I also spoke to Mark Cordwell regards the paint. He is going to do a standard 400e white scheme with red speedblocks for me, with a red Rgv front mudguard to match the red of the decals. I did consider something non standard, but I did want the bike to be very much "Rd400" at first glance. You see so few on the road I felt a standard paint scheme would identify it best, plus I always loved the "white heat" scheme the best. Getting near the end now
One step forward, 2 back ! With the loom fitted, I looked at connecting everything up, but, the pattern switchgear doesn't have the correct plugs fitted to match the loom Couple of wires dont match the wiring diagram colours either Not gonna be the simple plug in job I was hoping for - the joys of pattern parts and nla connector blocks I suppose;
Bought this one after reading some bad press on the Motobatt's. This was £28 delivered with a 3 year guarantee, so worth a go. Got some parts from Norbo this week too. 2 x hi flow petrol taps with a single outlet rather than the twin outlet;
I know not everyone rates the clear pipe, but I've never had a problem with the pipe Norbo supplies, and I will keep an eye on it. I had the option of running it to the manifolds or the carbs as there are spigots fitted on both, but chose to go to the manifolds as jetting changes will mean I wont need to disturb the oil feeds. I fitted some old taps and checked the tank for leaks by filling with fuel. I hadn't checked the tank since having the welding done for the second tap and the cross over tubes welded shut. Thankfully, no leaks, so the tank is now empty and ready for Mark Cordwell. Brakes lines will be the next parts to buy.
Thanks for the offer Alex, but I will need to change the switchgear mainly, probably with modern connectors. The loom is not such an issue, it's more the switchgear with bullet connectors and no plugs. Hope you are well mate
you will meed to work out what the wires on the pattern switch do with a meter had to do that on a RD50 pattern switch I thought the correct coloured wires would connect to the matching wires in the loom but to it was not wired like that
Yea, I hate the electrickery part or rebuilds John !! Thought buying all new parts would make life easy - obviously not Everything away from the headlight connects up as it should, but it's only the ignition switch connection that plugs straight in at the front end. I think you may be right Howard. Had a look at some earlier switchgear on ebay, and it was original bullet connections on that too, indicating the switchgear may match a C/D loom more readily. I've got a Kojaycat colour wiring diagram on it's way as they are very easy to follow, so wont attempt anything till that arrives.
I know he is mega busy at the mo, but at least it will be there for when he is ready. Had a bit of time with the wiring lately. I bought a colour Kojaycat wiring diagram which is a big help, plus I have ordered a 4 pin male plug from them to help connect to the loom. Other plugs are nla, so I ordered some more bullet connectors from Amazon - obsolete plugs will get cut off and bullets fitted;
Working my way through it. I've got working horn, idiot lights, front stop light, and I've wired in the temp gauge to a switched live, so the gauge comes on with the ignition. Lots of wires will be redundant as there will be no indicators, and the pattern switchgear has no pass light switch. I'm testing everything before I start cutting block connectors off, but will leave all indicator wiring intact in case they are fitted at a later date.
Well, I see that for someone who does not particularly enjoy electrical problem solving, you have dived straight into the dark art here. Lovely tidy job so far and that wiring diagram looks superb. Nice n simple. Mr C will do an outstanding job on the bodywork so looking forward to seeing it finished however I agree that he is run off his feet and it may be a while. Top stuff as always Dusty. John 🙂
Cheers John and Jon The main wiring kit with a crimping tool was about 30 quid a year or two back. The smaller kit is to top up the connections. I have used those awful blue/red/yellow connectors from Halfords in the past, and I can safely say I will never use them again !! Decent connectors are a no brainer, and give a finish just like the factory crimped connections. I didn't really want to cut any existing plugs off the loom from the idiot light cluster, but I didn't have any choice as I cant source the correct "other side" as they aren't available, so good quality bullets are my next best bet. I'm slowly working my way through it though, and haven't blown any fuses, yet !! I remade the battery leads as they were very long, and I have also had to re route the main loom up the right side of the frame as it gave it an extra inch of length in the headlight bowl - just doing that took an hour last night as I then had to re route other wires, as I want it to be as neat and tidy as possible, even though it's not seen beneath the tank. Need to sort the lights out next as a lot of wiring in the headlight is for instrument/ headlight operation. I was pretty pleased to get the neutral, oil and temp gauge working as they should !!
The paintwork is now with Mark up in Derby. 5- 6 week turnaround which is fine. He has plenty of paint sets waiting to be done, so I appreciate him taking it on. I've gone for a bright white, as opposed to the standard Rd white, which can look a bit "creamy" compared to a bright white. As my wheels are bright white, the bodywork would have looked odd if it was different. Decals will be standard Rd400 red speedblocks though, and will be lacquered over. Edging a bit nearer to the end !!
Don't think I will be setting up "Dusty's rewires" any time soon, but hopefully I will get everything working. I did look at taking it to a bike repairer local to me, but at £55 per hour I decided to sort it myself ! Hi Chris. The gauge takes a switched live feed from a brown wire. Nearest I found to where the gauge loom sits is from the rear brake light feed. Then the earth wire from the gauge loom goes to an earth point on the frame. So the gauge only goes live when you switch the ignition on. Easy to splice into the brown wire for the rear brake, and it leaves the main loom untouched.
Last Edit: Apr 22, 2021 21:35:38 GMT 1 by dusty350
Its nice to see someone doing the electrics correctly, and using the correct terminals and crimping tool. Some folks spend thousands on rebuilds and specials... then treat the electrical system to utter contempt.... Seen insulated terminals "crimped" with cheap tools no better than pliers...
Cheers Steve My inability to fully grasp electrickery means the last thing I want to do is chase electrical gremlins, and using those awful cheap and nasty Halfords type fixings means I could introduce problems into the system. Using the proper "W" crimping tool and decent connectors will hopefully reduce any possible problems. Another essential workshop tool, no matter what bike you have.
Managed to finish the wiring today, by getting the headlight working properly thanks to Steve and Nigel's help yesterday Bonus was I got it all in the headlight bowl and the lens fitted and everything still worked !! So, with no excuse to drag my feet any longer, a quick trip to get some fuel in a can, mix some oil in and....
Third kick, fired up sweet as a nut. The first time this collection of parts has ever run as a complete bike Been a long road since starting with just the frame that Alex gave me back in 2019. Some tweaks will be required for fuelling I'm sure, but the engine sounds great and the Allspeeds sound awesome Need brake lines and get the calipers bled and that will be about it.