|
|
Post by Mr Kipling on Feb 9, 2019 17:51:27 GMT 1
feelin very envious of your machine shop and skills right now.....
|
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 9, 2019 18:24:18 GMT 1
It's coming along nicely 👍👍👍
|
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Feb 9, 2019 21:20:42 GMT 1
You can tell, even at this early stage, that this is gonna be a stunning bike. Just looks so right ;)Think it needs a Pv engine in there though Al - infinitely more trick bits to fit  Dusty  |
|
|
|
Post by alankelly on Feb 9, 2019 21:47:39 GMT 1
Hi Dusty Yes it’s going to look bad ass I hope👍 But not sure if a PV would fit due to the front engine mount frame tubes?  And yes lots of trick bike bits both bought and home made 👍👍 Also I know it’s a long way off but started to think I may look at an EFI system (Easier on a non pv engine as no power valves to consider) With two separate throttle bodies and pod style filters for the intake system etc as tank will be just an alloy box” under the tank shell moulding, so easy to fit a internal high pressure EFI fuel pump etc like on a modern bike. And also as I have no alternator ignition set up yet the ECU unit would have the ignition map also, as I could then map both ignition and fueling together as a single system, and in theory it should be possible as lots of modern 2T scooters are fuel injected Like I said just an idea and a long way off and the whole project is just a blank canvas to do lots of stuff with, but stay within the MSVA rules👍 Catch up again soon Best wishes Al |
|
|
|
Post by donkeychomp on Feb 9, 2019 22:11:53 GMT 1
How the hell did I miss this? Bike looks unreal Al, I mean very very trick. Funny thing is you've made spacers for the Mito forks and they look like the ones I need!  (My RD project has Mito forks but YZF 125 wheels). Gonna stay glued to this one mate, keep it up. Alex |
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 9, 2019 22:33:25 GMT 1
I think you have enough room above the rail for the power valve
|
|
|
|
Post by alankelly on Feb 9, 2019 22:35:05 GMT 1
Hi Tony
Cheers I stand corrected 👍
Best wishes always Al
|
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 9, 2019 22:37:06 GMT 1
Hi Tony Cheers I stand corrected 👍 Best wishes always Al Don't take my word for it please check😊 |
|
|
|
Post by alankelly on Feb 9, 2019 22:40:05 GMT 1
Hi Tony
No worries
Planning to stick to a standard engine anyway rather than pv and really look into the fuel injection route 👍
Best wishes Al
|
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 9, 2019 22:41:59 GMT 1
I have seen a nice fuel injected GT750. It uses Triumph fuel injection. It suits the low revving piston port engine.
|
|
|
|
Post by alankelly on Feb 9, 2019 22:57:34 GMT 1
Hi Tony
Thank for the info regarding the triumph injection system fitted to a gt750
Food for thought definitely
Best wishes Al
|
|
|
|
Post by donkeychomp on Feb 9, 2019 23:01:38 GMT 1
Fuel injection is an idea I have always thought was a good one. I may well be wrong but don't some 2 stroke snow mobiles use that set up?
Alex
|
|
|
|
Post by alankelly on Feb 9, 2019 23:07:14 GMT 1
Also see these on the bay recently  Would just need the oil injection feed adding maybe Like I said earlier needs a good looking into 👍 Watch this space Best wishes Al |
|
|
|
Post by marrcel on Feb 10, 2019 11:13:08 GMT 1
My suggestion is to ask Ignitech if they have a mapping for it. They do have complete cdi with tps ypvs and injection.
|
|
|
|
Post by bezzer on Feb 13, 2019 22:50:10 GMT 1
Stunning bike and build Al. The tube work of the frame suits the curves of the LC engine really well.
Watching with interest how you get on down the fuel injection route.
Best of luck with it all mate 👍🏻😊.
|
|
|
|
Post by alankelly on Feb 16, 2019 21:37:38 GMT 1
Hi all. Hope all is well. At last managed this week to modify my KTM front wheel to accept a Mito 320 disc so that I can sort out my front wheel brake setup, and with a bit of tweaking now I have a 4mm gap between the back of the caliper so happy days and another problem solved  IMG_6394 by Alan Kelly, on Flickr  IMG_6396 by Alan Kelly, on Flickr Also now received the rear caliper and looks like it should mount OK. But before I sort out its correct position, I have a question please for all the special builders out there. Before I mount the rear caliper (As the torque arm will require a bit of modification to fit the Honda swing arm) I need to check for correct wheel alignment / geometry (to ensure the back wheel is in the correct position before mounting the caliper). And want to ask all please if I have followed the correct method to establish how far I need to move over the back wheel, so that it is in the correct center line to the front wheel. 1. First I measured the distance from the swing arm pivot center line to the rear spindle center line, and ensured that for both sides the distance is the same. As I presume this will ensure that the rear wheel is correctly aligned within the swing arm / frame geometry, and the wheel spindle is dead parallel with the swing arm spindle? 2. I then wrapped a piece of string around the back of tyre and then tied of the lengths ahead of the front wheel to keep them both tight 3. I then move each string slowly inwards so it was then just touching the outer edge of the rear tyre at the front, so you have two parallel strings. 4. Then with the front wheel pointing straight forward, I measured one side of the front wheel (both front and back) to get the front wheel parallel with the string, and then measured each side to work out how far the front wheel was off compared with the back wheel  IMG_6400 by Alan Kelly, on Flickr  IMG_6406 by Alan Kelly, on Flickr  IMG_6403 by Alan Kelly, on Flickr And the final result is the there is a 12mm difference as the front wheel is off to the left when sitting on the bike. So looks like I need to move over the back wheel by 6mm to correct all, but before adjust the back wheel position with the final correct spacers I would just like to sanity check my test method with the forum just in case I have missed something out. As always, many thanks to all in advance. Have a good weekend. Best wishes Al. |
|
|
|
Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 16, 2019 23:04:29 GMT 1
Hi Al the method you have explained is more or less the same method I have used in the past but I have always used sprocket alignment as my datum.
I do understand that's not possible in your situation and I would agree with the center of the swing arm line, just remember that some swingarms are not symmetric.
|
|
|
|
Post by alankelly on Feb 16, 2019 23:24:16 GMT 1
Hi Tony
Thanks for the reply and 👍
Yes just want to confirm my method so that my roller wheel alignment is correct as the combination of Tigcraft frame Honda swing arm Cagiva forks and KTM wheels means I have no fix datum to work to other that ensuring first my front wheel is in the center of my forks and then use this now fixed datum point to align the back wheel correctly etc
Again many thanks for the 👍.
Best wishes Al
|
|
|
|
Post by donkeychomp on Feb 16, 2019 23:32:14 GMT 1
Al looking good matey. Nice to have a front brake!
Alex
|
|
|
|
Post by alankelly on Feb 16, 2019 23:35:20 GMT 1
Yes but all the thanks is to you for your generous lend of the disc👍
Catch up soon
Best wishes Al
|
|
|
|
Post by alankelly on Mar 2, 2019 18:16:37 GMT 1
Hi all. Hope all is well and you had a good week. Some steady progress with the project this week. Managed to complete my modification of the font wheel by machining up my wheel to disc adapter the other evening. And have now fitted the new front wheel with its wavy style disc .  IMG_6477 by Alan Kelly, on Flickr  IMG_6476 by Alan Kelly, on Flickr Also as per Dusty's suggestion I have managed to source a PV engine from Norbo (Many thanks Norbo for allowing me a late visit last night) and have dropped it in this afternoon and can report that the engine fits and that there is clearance for the the PV valve actuator .  IMG_6527 by Alan Kelly, on Flickr  IMG_6524 by Alan Kelly, on Flickr  IMG_6526 by Alan Kelly, on Flickr  IMG_6525 by Alan Kelly, on Flickr Again its a very snug fit due to the petite size of the frame Also now the PV engine is in the frame, it looks like I will have no space to fit the radiator in its normal location  So been thinking a bit, and will look into the possibility of fitting the radiator (or two small radiators) above the engine with the rad intake stub above the cylinder head and then the radiator sloping down from above the cylinder head toward the back of engine following the line of the top frame tubes with the outlet at the back. Its a bit of a radical idea, but I believe this concept has been used in the past on some race bikes. And if I can mount the rad like this, then all that will protrude front will be the exhaust headers. And as the tank will be under the fiberglass "tank shell" I can design a tank shape around the final radiator positions. Lastly maybe also will fit some 12v fans to increase cooling?? Finally its been bugging me for ages but after seeing my fitted wavy front disc sorted a theme for the bike and planning this dark stealth moody look / style when finished!!  IMG_6481[1] by Alan Kelly, on Flickr Planning to now sort the rear caliper Think that is all for now folks Catch up soon Best wishes Al. |
|
|
|
Post by bezzer on Mar 2, 2019 18:36:21 GMT 1
Great skills Al, build is coming along at a pace!.
Good luck (as if you need it!!) 🤗
|
|
|
|
Post by alankelly on Mar 2, 2019 22:11:06 GMT 1
Hi all Started to look at how and where I can mount a radiator 😵😵 Space as said before pretty tight😵😵 So this is what I think may work and I can then design a tank to sit above this radiator that will be roughly the same shape as the original moulding I have now but will be deeper so the lower edges of the tank shell match the top frame tubes and hide the radiator   Also plenty of space below for intake system so could sit rad lower flatter within frame tubes to improve tank capacity  Thoughts and comments welcome as some comments on my other thread indicate that the standard lc rd as maybe a tad ting for a stock bike and the standard ypvs one is slightly smaller😢😢 Best wishes Al |
|
|
|
Post by alankelly on Mar 2, 2019 22:12:30 GMT 1
Ps tried to mimic the same size as the standard lc rad for this mock up 👍👍
|
|
|
|
Post by marsbar350 on Mar 2, 2019 22:36:17 GMT 1
theres plenty of room to fit a ypvs rad in the correct position there al
your making work for your self
a couple of rad mounts welded on and a away you go
|
|
|
|
Post by alankelly on Mar 2, 2019 22:41:51 GMT 1
Hi Marsbar
Ok I will have a look
I have not seen a ypvs rad yet but looking at my lc one it seems a bit tight for space?
Would you be able to post some overal sizes please (I guess it is flat like the lc one) so I can mock up a standard ypvs rad so I can see what space is available
Many thanks in advance
Best wishes Al
|
|
|
|
Post by dusty350 on Mar 2, 2019 22:43:19 GMT 1
Hi Al Will the rad dissipate enough heat if it's fitted above the engine and below a tank ? I know you mention fitting a fan but wondered if you can push the heat far anough away from the rad ? Are you fitting lights to this bike ? If not (daytime MOT) then what about a rad where the headlight would be - a bit like an oil cooler fitment on some of the big diesel specials. Has the Tigcraft frame got no provision for a rad ? I know the design of the frame is very different to a Pv frame, but surely they considered a rad mounting ? Dusty |
|
|
|
Post by marsbar350 on Mar 2, 2019 22:44:58 GMT 1
Hi Marsbar Ok I will have a look I have not seen a ypvs rad yet but looking at my lc one it seems a bit tight for space? Would you be able to post some overal sizes please (I guess it is flat like the lc one) so I can mock up a standard ypvs rad so I can see what space is available Many thanks in advance Best wishes Al pm sent |
|
|
|
Post by alankelly on Mar 2, 2019 22:50:04 GMT 1
Hi Dusty
Thanks for the advice
Messaged Chris earlier to ask if he had planned where the rad was to be mounted and the radiator location was a thing that that was yet to be planned 😁😁
Oh well I am sure that I can sort something I will just take some thought as would like to fit lights
Marsbar Andy thinks a standard ypvs rad should fit so I think I will plan to try and get a cheap knackered second hand one off eBay and offer it up and see what space I do have
Catch up soon
Best wishes Al
|
|
|
|
Post by marsbar350 on Mar 2, 2019 23:10:01 GMT 1
measured from the middle of my front engine mount bolt to the tyre and have 225mm
whats it on yours?
|
|
(My RD project has Mito forks but YZF 125 wheels).
So been thinking a bit, and will look into the possibility of fitting the radiator (or two small radiators) above the engine with the rad intake stub above the cylinder head and then the radiator sloping down from above the cylinder head toward the back of engine following the line of the top frame tubes with the outlet at the back.