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Post by wallcraft on May 16, 2019 18:59:23 GMT 1
Yep , I had the same with my mikuni 34's so tried sock carb springs, does the trick.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 16, 2019 22:24:43 GMT 1
Yep , I had the same with my mikuni 34's so tried sock carb springs, does the trick. Good to know i'm not being too fussy. |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on May 17, 2019 7:26:19 GMT 1
Holy cow. Just stumbled onto this bike.
In my old age I find it hard to be impressed.
f**k me, awesome. I take my hat off to you.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 17, 2019 11:46:38 GMT 1
Holy cow. Just stumbled onto this bike. In my old age I find it hard to be impressed. f**k me, awesome. I take my hat off to you. Thanks for the compliment Ken, the only thing i have done is bolted it together. All the skilful work has been made by other people who i have respect for. |
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 18, 2019 16:22:41 GMT 1
Today i spent a little time on the Bakker bike and have fitted the ignition pickup and the small flywheel.  This will be drilled to shed some weight once i know its working properly. The flywheel is fitted but not tightened as it still needs to be set up.  I'm still not sure how to route the wiring. At the moment i'm thinking about routing the loom a bit towards the back of the engine and then route it along the inside of the left chassis rail. I will have a look to see if i can find some stick on clips as i don't want to drill any holes into the chassis. |
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 21, 2019 19:36:35 GMT 1
Today i made a clutch cable up and fitted it to the bike.  I really want to sort out the throttle tension but i only have the use of one and a half hands (left index finger a bit sore). So i decided to turn my attention to the gear change mechanism. Due to the chassis the original selector shaft is about 20 mm to short. I can only see two options, make the shaft longer or use an offset coupling on the selector shaft. After a bit of a rummage i found a damaged ali coupling. This was heated up and made offset. I still have to find a good solution for the sprocket cover, this could mean i have to elongate the selector shaft, but for now the offset coupling will do.  It's a a pity the splines are damaged as i do like this. Anyhow i have also got another ali gear-change which i can cut and shut once i know the offset is good.  In the picture below you can see that the connecting rod has to be fairly long  I'm not sure which material i am going to use for the rod. My first plan was to use a piece of carbon rod, but after a small chat with another forum member he suggested carbon tube. I will make two rods up one with carbon tube and one with ali tube. Once they have been weighed i will will use the lightest. In the picture the linkage is mounted in the traditional RD spec, depending on the space available i would prefer a 1 up five down gearbox. |
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Post by tipfinchy on May 21, 2019 20:38:28 GMT 1
not bad for one and a half hands  I guess you have seen this www.mb-designs.co.uk/page8.phplooks a similarish bare bones bike , and 125kg with 5 litres of fuel loving the build mart |
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 21, 2019 20:54:00 GMT 1
not bad for one and a half hands I guess you have seen this www.mb-designs.co.uk/page8.phplooks a similarish bare bones bike , and 125kg with 5 litres of fuel loving the build mart Hi Mart it was this and the RS500 that pushed me over the edge. I am hoping that it will be a little lighter but theres still lots to be added, I'm not impressed with the weight of the Zeel unit. I also drool over your mean Super Motard |
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 27, 2019 22:54:09 GMT 1
Today i have sorted out the route of the gear linkage. With a bit of a rummage i finally managed to use some of the bits i have saved for many years when most people have said throw that junk away   Due to the path of the linkage rod i had to counter bore the bottom part of the rearset to make sure the cap head did not interfere with the linkage.  I have now got some different materials to make the linkage rod. In the picture below the top rod is titanium, the middle rod is carbonfiber rod and the bottom rod is carbonfiber tube.  I really like the carbonfiber tube as it weighs nothing but i have been warned that this can fail very easy. I am now thinking about bonding a rod into the tube to give it extra strength. Below is a weight comparison between the titanium and the carbonfiber tube.  
I will make some fittings to cap the carbonfiber rod but i am not sure what type of rod ends to order. I would like to try some aluminium rod ends but these seem hard to find, or just go with the normal steel rod ends. I have also begun to join the cooling water system together. I could not find a hose with the correct bend needed to join the radiator to the pump. I was going to try a but of straight hose but i only have a bit in blue so i decided to bend a piece of 25 mm ally pipe to the correct angle. I do prefer the look of the ally pipe but this bend has a tiny kink in it so i will make another piece without a kink. 
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Mad Biker
Drag-strip hero
We lead others try and follow.
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Post by Mad Biker on May 27, 2019 23:16:55 GMT 1
You shouldn't have any problem with the carbon rod. We have been making these for years for various models and never had an issue. The one on my TZ is 7 years old no issue.  |
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 27, 2019 23:29:23 GMT 1
You shouldn't have any problem with the carbon rod. We have been making these for years for various models and never had an issue. The one on my TZ is 7 years old no issue. What diameter tube do you use? |
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Post by veg on May 28, 2019 11:15:14 GMT 1
Tony can you use rubber hose with a metal spiral
Core so that it doesn’t kink but is bendable?
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 28, 2019 14:13:21 GMT 1
Tony can you use rubber hose with a metal spiral Core so that it doesn’t kink but is bendable? That's a good idea Veg, but I think this radiator needs to be bigger. I will wait until it runs. |
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Post by veg on May 28, 2019 14:49:15 GMT 1
I did a complete u bend from head to barrel base with some for my tz top end to lc water pump. Good stuff
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jun 3, 2019 17:20:08 GMT 1
I did a complete u bend from head to barrel base with some for my tz top end to lc water pump. Good stuff There are a few things that i need to do in the cooling system. This will be dealt with in more detail later in the build |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jun 3, 2019 17:52:54 GMT 1
This after noon the tachometer arrived to my surprise. Due to payment problems it took a while to get it organised. Lots of companies use a Pay Pal page for payment. When this happens i mostly cancel the order, unless i really want what they have to sell. I then usually ask if i can pay by credit card or bank transfer.  I first contacted them on their contact page and did not get an answer. When this happens i start to think maybe my order is to small. This was not the case and after phoning them. I cannot explain how good their service was and they took my request very seriously and spent the time to explain what they can or cannot do with an explanation. Top job in my opinion.  The wiring loom looks like its already made with just one or two connections to add. It is also well prepared and i like the way they have made it.  Of course out of curiosity i have weighed every thing. Good news, the tacho is not so heavy, probably helped by the fact it is not very deep. The bad news the wiring is too heavy, i will see what i can do with this. Shame to butcher it really as it is well made.   |
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 3, 2019 19:56:57 GMT 1
That looks really trick mate I spoke to them on the phone last week, and as you say, they were very helpful. The case the tacho unit sits in is billet I believe. Looks like your digi readout is for temp. Does that screw straight into the Pv head - thread wise ? Dusty |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jun 3, 2019 21:12:48 GMT 1
That looks really trick mate I spoke to them on the phone last week, and as you say, they were very helpful. The case the tacho unit sits in is billet I believe. Looks like your digi readout is for temp. Does that screw straight into the Pv head - thread wise ? Dusty Hi Dusty the thread is good old 1/8 NPT, i would not be surprised if you requested another type thread they would accommodate you. What is good for a road bike is the fact it comes with rubber water proof fittings. Not sure i want this for my bike, but i'm not complaining. 
I will fit this sensor in the out going cooling water. I want to machine the original pipe fitting off and fit a block with a 90 degree bend machined into it for the cooling liquid. I will have plenty of room for fitting a sensor then. I also have an idea for a special thermostat housing to fit direct on the cylinder head but first i will need a much bigger radiator for it to work well. |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jun 3, 2019 22:02:43 GMT 1
Tonight i have decided to tackle the front sprocket offset i have, below is the sprocket i have for the bike. You can see it needs some thought. I always like challenges like this but sometimes it just feels like a pain in the arse as it really slows the project down and i dont want to alienate all the people who have been making and machining things for me by asking too much of them.   The offset needed for this project is 25mm, I have chopped up a plastic cover to see what my options are and to help me think of a good solution.  With the original cover fitted i can see that there is just enough room for the chain, this is good as i can use the original length gear change shaft.   I have to find out how much offset the Chariot side case can take as this would be the easy option. Another option is to cut up a 4LO side casing and adapt this for use. I could make another fitting where the white dot is on the casing for extra support and it would also be possible to modify it for a support bearing in the case. One thing i do want to do is reduce the height of what ever covers the fly wheel. The fairings are very narrow in these areas and i don't want to cut the fairing open to make room for these.  If anyone can help me with info about the Chariot covers please comment . |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jun 4, 2019 20:12:14 GMT 1
Don't know about a chariot case but an lc one doesn't take much offset
With the 9mm on mine I had to grind out the inside of the cover
Steve
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Post by tell7437 on Jun 4, 2019 21:45:11 GMT 1
Air cooled rd's have a removable cover over the flywheel but not sure if it would fit your cases without modifications. Just a thought.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jun 5, 2019 15:04:11 GMT 1
Thanks for the info chaps. I have measured how much the front edge of the sprocket protrudes above the engine casing. The protrusion is 3mm. I then measured how much the i need for the chain links 6mm. So with a slight safety margin i will have a protrusion of 12mm. The plastic YPVS cover will just accommodate the clearance needed. There is how ever no extra support given to the input shaft with the extended socket. I have managed to find an image of the inside of the Chariot engine case. As you can see the case runs flush with the two engine halves so this will not fit without spacing it out 12mm.  I can only see four options. 1 Just use the plastic YPVS cover. 2 Buy the Chariot casing and space it out 12 mm 3 Buy a big bit of billet and copy the Chariot design with the extra clearance needed. 4 Make a round billet disc with the support bearing fitted, cut out part of the 4LO casing and weld the disc onto the side casing. At the moment i'm thinking about options 1 & 4. |
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Post by 4l04ever on Jun 5, 2019 17:31:21 GMT 1
Option 2 sounds easiest if you want the extra support :-)
Option 1 is easiest with no support.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jun 5, 2019 20:29:13 GMT 1
Option 2 sounds easiest if you want the extra support :-) Option 1 is easiest with no support. Yes i think i might have to get in touch with Norbo. I need to sleep on it first |
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Post by Mr Kipling on Jun 6, 2019 19:20:07 GMT 1
looks like good progress is being made, keep up the good work Tony , ATB...
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Post by dusty350 on Jun 6, 2019 20:17:48 GMT 1
With a 25mm offset, I would be going with the extra case support if it were me. Dusty |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jun 6, 2019 20:52:29 GMT 1
With a 25mm offset, I would be going with the extra case support if it were me. Dusty I have made some calculations and if what i have calculated is correct there is quite a difference. Because i'm not sure with how to calculate the actual load on ball bering races i'm not going to write up my calculations and scare people. |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jun 6, 2019 20:57:12 GMT 1
looks like good progress is being made, keep up the good work Tony , ATB... Hi Mr K it is slowly slowly progress. |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jun 6, 2019 21:20:34 GMT 1
I have now almost finished my gear change rod. I don't really like it as it reminds me of Tommy Cooper's magic wand. MK 2 has now been thought up.  |
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Post by Tobyjugs on Jun 17, 2019 0:25:07 GMT 1
I was never very happy about these straight fittings in the carb tops.  I decided to get some angled fittings, after a small talk with one of the staff at Allens, i was told there was nothing available for my carbs. I was surprised to hear this as i had had some angled fittings from Allens for my 28mm Keihins and expected the same for the 35mm carbs. This meant i would have to make my own. I tried both steel and aluminium 6mm pipe and after several attempts i managed to make these.  They are line with teflon tubing, which has a 4mm outside diameter and a 2mm inside diameter. If i get some more teflon tubing i would go for a 3mm outside diameter. I had to reduce the outside diameter slightly to get it to slide into the aluminium pipe. Below are some pictures to show the process.   
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