The curved pipes follow the line of the curved spars which is aesthetically pleasing so well worth the effort. and yes I know just how much effort it is to slowly cut the tubes back to get them notched to fit the existing spars properly, slowly slowly catchy monkey I think people used to say LOL
Welding these frames can be tough, they have so much leached in oils and other crap its not easy to get a nice weld we found when doing mine, especially with TIG. MIG is better but you do get spatter, tho if you look at the frames you can see Yamaha got that when they did it in the factory too! That said, I do agree with Tony that wire speed is a funny thing on a MIG, ive only recently learnt that slowing the speed is often the key to a better weld, the opposite of what felt right to me intuitively. Either way, welding tips aside, Im liking the direction youre going Jon
As you said Jon, cutting the gussets to fit the spars is time consuming. They were close enough, but still had very slight gaps.
This caused a couple of blow throughs, so I ended up just stitch welding it as I wanted it fully penetrated.
That and the fact you can't get the welding touch close enough because of the upper radiator bracket, meant the welds are not the prettiest, but are very functional. However as said they perfectly match some of the OEM welds .
yeah that rad fixing is a bitch to get round, I ended up cutting back my gussets so i could weld to the frame there, then after went over the lot again to tie it into the rad mount as well.
ahem, the OEM welds are shocking at times, even the jig wasnt very good if you look around, Ive got spars that are a bit over the place and then were welded in anyway on my frames, the ones I did were not done like that LOL
When I welded the extra swingarm brackets in they were slightly more of a gap from the frame tubes than I would have liked. That's why I had to weld side to side, and it looked a bit industrial IMO. When I realised this, I built up the weld, before grinding back the surface.
Another very important thing I learnt in my apprenticeship/college was the 'stress raiser'. In most cases a smooth fillet radius actually spreads any forces out, whereas an abrupt change (such as a weld) can increase the force in that particular area, leading to failure (IF it isn't over engineered - safety factor).
Interesting discussion. Im always keen to learn more about welding and know exactly what Tony means when he says that MIG is easy to do, but hard to do well. I've 20 or so years on/off experience with welding MIG and never been taught and always wish that someone would teach me, but Ive found that running a weld is like playing racquet sports, you absolutely know when you get it right. Anyway, always good to hear welding advice.
I'd forgotten about the tie bar mounts, I also welded mine on the B side Jon, Yam only welded on one side... same with the top rear shock mount, which ive tied to my new upper spars and their cross piece.
I welded in some braces either side of the centre stand cross member. Originally there was only one, which I thought a bit odd?
Now I realise for optimum strength they should have been straight or maybe even curving inwards, but I'm sure they are better than original (in terms of strength). They were done like this for two reasons. Firstly to enable me to get the welding torch up close, and secondly because I think they look good like this.
Well, I wondered whether to post this on a different thread; but seeing as I'd posted the first of the billet clutch covers on this one I thought I would post on here.
Some time ago a few showed interest in anodising, so I thought I'd show a bullet point guide of the process.
First rule is safety, as there are two dangerous substances used here. Eye protection, gloves, mask and water on hand is a must.
The electrolyte (solution the part is dunked in) is a 15% solution of sulfuric acid in de-ionised water. The water is important as tap water has all sorts of minerals and additives which effect the finish. Battery acid is 30% sulphuric, so cutting it 50/50 is easy.
Next up is cleaning the piece from all traces of grease. Maybe over the top, but first I spray it with carb cleaner. Just look at the crap on the tissue.
Next is scrub it with gloves on in soapy water. The after a rinse, it's into the lye. Now this just caustic soda diluted in water, and will melt a layer off the aluminium. This is one case where you should do the exact opposite of the instructions. You actually want the stuff that will melt aluminium. Just don't leave in for too long!
Next is the tank itself. You must use lead as the cathodes, and hang the piece off the positive charge.
The power supply is adjustable for voltage and ampage. On a new tank I use around 15V, and once worn in you can drop to 12V. Amapage is worked out by measuring the surface area of the piece in cm2. As a general rule you should aim for an hour of anodising based on 0.013 amps per cm2.
Once anodised you can dye it if you like. The surface is pourous, and so will absorb dye. Here I am doing it black. The dye is heated and adjitated to give an even finish.
The last step is boiling in water to seal the surface. And the finished article ...