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Post by sunsetrider02 on May 29, 2012 11:45:54 GMT 1
Hi, Really impressed with watching this rebuld along with a few others from this site. I am new to the two stroke world....but had a 4LO-1 for quite some years in the shed. Decided to restored it to its former glory and stripped it down over the last week.
Not meaning to highjack this thread....but In need to ask some probably stupid question.
I get confused with these things such as: the "Green Paint" on the horn bracket the color of the bottom yoke, I did not pay much attention...but I thought that mine was also black. the finish on the clocks and the "Green mounting Bracket" My bracket are original but appears to be black The handlebar and the clamps that hold them on. The pictures above shows them to be satin black...what is the original color? The back of the headlight???
I would appreciate if someone would clarify what the actual color scheme is as I would like mine back to as original as possible.
I certainly will be watching this rebuild with great care and hope to learn a lot from it to get my project right.
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Post by bryan on May 29, 2012 13:19:43 GMT 1
Not stupid questions, if you dont know just ask as someone will know the answer.
All black parts except, frame, swingarm, engine plates, rear subframe and both stands (they are all gloss) are satin black. There is a big list of parts that are green, may have missed some out but here goes Caliper mounting pins lower yoke horn bracket Spring round over flow pipe at rad end all nuts/bolts on head and barrels 4 switch gear screws 4 handle bar clamp Allen bolts Brake/clutch Piviot. bolts/nuts clutch adjuster All nuts/bolts on master cylinder and clutch mount Clock bracket & nuts/bolts/washers Kickstart and rear brake arm Footrest arms Rear footres brackets Rear light screws Stand lifting handle bolts Handle bar wire guides All 4 carb clamps Ballance pipe clips Leavers on seat lock/latch Engine case screws Indicator nuts/bolts Indicator stems, nuts/washers 2x Head lamp bolts and 4x cross head screws/washers Rad bolts and rad cover screws Rad/water hose clamps Rad cap chain adjuster bolts
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Post by bryan on May 29, 2012 17:47:36 GMT 1
todays job was barrels. ended up getting them rebored with new pistons. new exhaust studs 1 insert was needed in left hand barrel. new barrel drain bolts exhaust studs fitted fitted fiber reeds as I dont refit old metal ones. origonal inlet rubbers were ok, so reused with replated allen bolts and new carb clamps
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Post by sunsetrider02 on May 30, 2012 13:20:40 GMT 1
Thanks Bryan, Either I have never paid much attention or perhaps all the bike that I have seen have been touched up at times.
i have already made one mistake. i have the lower youke powder coated black as well and obviously should have been green.
This build of yours is promising to be worth waiting for. I a learning a lot through all the write up and progress report. keep up the good work.
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Post by bryan on May 30, 2012 14:18:02 GMT 1
My numbers matching UK LC I sold a few years ago had Satin black lower yoke too, as I didn't know any different. Dosnt matter that much unless your going to be showing the bike. This restoration need to be as origonal as I can get it as that's what the owner wants.
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Post by bryan on May 30, 2012 16:11:27 GMT 1
little box arrived from Norbo today New clutch plates and some used metal ones to replace these nice new gear selector arm and clutch push rod so there will be no oil leaks. last gasket needed and a pair of new float valves
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Post by peterlc2 on May 30, 2012 16:14:08 GMT 1
now your an anorak you mean :-)
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Post by bryan on Jun 10, 2012 15:10:24 GMT 1
owner managed to get standard head after a long wait, only to find when it arrived its had .5mm of the face and chamber volume is just under 20cc. Not too much of a problem, and as domes are untouched will be using it. Paint stripped ready for painting. undammaged domes all sprayed up ready to fit to the engine.
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Post by bryan on Jun 10, 2012 17:17:26 GMT 1
as these are £15 a pair, I dug out 2 old ones from my bits as they were missing on the bike, 15mm socket and the ball end of a hommer sorted the ends out. Wire wheel couldent get in all the nooks, so fired up the sand blaster and a quick squirt sorted them out. back to bare metal with no rust. Quick spray with PJ1, job done!
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Post by billy on Jun 10, 2012 18:35:28 GMT 1
Nice work.
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Post by bryan on Jun 10, 2012 22:25:12 GMT 1
wanted to get the engine to a point where its ready to fit in the frame next week. Treated myself to a new 3/8 drive torque wrenc for the smaller nut and bolts. new pistons and a rebuilt crank. we had a problem with the engine cases, at some point in its past it had a broken rod and damaged the front upper case, was welded up but cases still had a gap that you could see light through. While the Engineers were doing rebore and crank they machined a groove and stuck a strip of O ring in to seal it. Laid crank in to check all the pins fitted, no probs. All bolted up. new 1.5mm pistons. Gen base gaskets, always fit right. first barrel fitted. both on and head fitted to seal engine, need to sort out green head bolts yet.
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Post by bryan on Jun 16, 2012 18:58:05 GMT 1
todays job was engine in. As I was on my own again, Ive worked out a way to make it easyer putting it in. First put rubber hose over the ends of the exhaust studs so they dont scratch the frame, or leave them off till the engine is in. Get some pipe insulation for the frame tubes and cover as much as possible, this allows you to lift the engine onto the frame tubes and rest it on the insulation while you get an arm over the frame and hold the engine from the other side to lift it in. left the plugs out and the top hose housing off to allow a little movement upwards. job done and now time to get bolting ancilleries on.
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Post by bryan on Jun 17, 2012 22:15:31 GMT 1
today's first job was fit Hagon heavy duty springs. origonal springs fit flush with the top of the fork leg. Hagon springs are 4cm longer so will give a fair ammount of extra preload. Got a pair of the top yoke wire guides from Yambits as they were missing. Grips fitted Throttle tube and cabel also now on. Got one of the last few mising parts. carbs fitted and ballanced. stator and flywheel fitted, new neutrel switch and CDI on and all connected up. Now have neutrel light. And tool tray fitted.
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busaash
Drag-strip hero
never have too many toys
Posts: 221
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Post by busaash on Jun 20, 2012 14:12:21 GMT 1
i like the attention to detail, there is a lot of work going into this build. good effort .
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Post by proam350 on Jun 20, 2012 22:07:25 GMT 1
1st class job that is a good build well done mate
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Post by bryan on Jun 21, 2012 22:49:13 GMT 1
thanks guys, all this work and it's not even my bike. pipes turned up today, quite serprised how good they are, not mint but think they are too good to respray. why do people do things like this, just stick the correct type screw and washer on. put a cheese head screw in to leaver the outer skin back out to where it should be.
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Post by bryan on Jun 21, 2012 23:43:10 GMT 1
Got a few more new bits today. Nowhere to get the correct thread tie bar bolts, so nearly £6 for to Gen Yam ones. why dont these come on the neutrel switch.
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Post by 2cl on Jul 7, 2012 20:58:19 GMT 1
The owner of that will be very happy.
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Post by bryan on Jul 12, 2012 17:35:20 GMT 1
rotor side cover painted, disk fitted with green screews. new clutch release arm and sprng next to the old ones. fitted to case with new screws.
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Post by bryan on Dec 17, 2012 18:59:22 GMT 1
must crack on with the build, been a few months since Ive touched it.
Got new rider and pillion footrests and the reproduced side panels in the post from Norbo today, look well made and have the 4L0 on the inside too. I can get all the bodywork off to the painters now. Waiting for head bolts to get replated, need to spray the origonal exhausts and clutch cover then can get it running.
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Post by steelerd on Dec 18, 2012 17:37:13 GMT 1
looking awesome mate keep up with the great work
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Post by copper99 on Dec 18, 2012 22:16:46 GMT 1
Looks lovely mate...Q- are the crankcases bare metal or laqured/painted in some fashion?
I also need some of the M8(i think) bolts and nuts that hold it together..
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Post by bryan on Dec 18, 2012 23:24:40 GMT 1
aquablasted crank cases left unpainted.
Norbo or Redbimota should be able to help with the crancase nuts and bolts then you could get them replated. May nstill be available but you would have to order them and see what comes through.
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Post by bryan on Dec 19, 2012 10:57:16 GMT 1
got a new brake arm from Norbo and nut and trunion from Yambits. new footrests fitted with SS bolts till I get the correct Yamaha ones, replated lower hanger bolt and new uppers from Norbo. Had to strip my clocks down to get the trip knod off as it was missing on this bike. Replaced it on my LC with an alloy one. Just noticed Ive not sprayed the nuts yet. Replacement air box strips from Taymar Racing as they were all missing.
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Post by bryan on Jan 12, 2013 13:03:28 GMT 1
got the replated head bolts back from Norbo today.
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Post by copper99 on Jan 12, 2013 16:22:24 GMT 1
Those bolts do finish the job off nicely...
Loving this build. Where do the airbox strips go and what do they do Bryan?
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Post by marsbar350 on Jan 12, 2013 17:30:04 GMT 1
Those bolts do finish the job off nicely... Loving this build. Where do the airbox strips go and what do they do Bryan? they go in the top part of the airbox under the tank holding the air filter in place
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Post by skydemon on Jan 12, 2013 19:05:28 GMT 1
Bryan. I am truly impressed by you build. Your attention to detail and the time you put into the forum is magic. I, and I'm sure the other lads and lasses really appreciate it. Also I can see what I need to do to mine to get it back to factory :-)
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Post by bryan on Jan 14, 2013 0:04:43 GMT 1
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Post by bryan on Feb 5, 2013 15:10:08 GMT 1
Dome pillion footrest and exhaust hanger bolts arrived from back order, so they arnt NLA. Compleet set of new parts now. Compleetly new everything except the pollished hanger and origonal finnish rear brake leaver. Gear leaver adjuster rod from Yambits as they are NLA, NOS gear leaver and new shift arm.
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