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Post by marrcel on Mar 23, 2021 22:03:03 GMT 1
The ars
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Post by marrcel on Mar 23, 2021 22:02:34 GMT 1
Here 2 different seals. One with red teflon liner Ars and one without skf.
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Post by marrcel on Mar 23, 2021 21:23:11 GMT 1
I think i have ars seals without the red teflon liner. They are from China. I will take some pics. Just a red alert. Not😤
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Post by marrcel on Mar 22, 2021 17:16:07 GMT 1
Your non return valves of the oilpump are probably clogged if the lines keep dripping.
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Post by marrcel on Mar 21, 2021 19:57:07 GMT 1
I have a shoei head. I tested arai but my head just doesn’t fit. After Xspirit 1 and 2 now nr3.
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Post by marrcel on Mar 21, 2021 19:10:47 GMT 1
There are some strange things going on. Last picture lots of air in oil feed lines. Did you bleed the air out of the pump? 2nd if there is lots of fuel coming out of the exhausts there is a problem with the floath valves and probably your benzinekraan petc**k. First sort these issues.
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Post by marrcel on Mar 21, 2021 8:20:08 GMT 1
On wifi not but on 4G it does appear in tapa
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Post by marrcel on Mar 16, 2021 19:31:49 GMT 1
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Post by marrcel on Mar 14, 2021 21:57:19 GMT 1
My 83 in Holland.
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Post by marrcel on Mar 14, 2021 8:12:32 GMT 1
Dasty
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Post by marrcel on Mar 12, 2021 20:54:43 GMT 1
My bleed screw came a bit loose. Check that. And if the fiber washer is squashed then replaced it
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Post by marrcel on Mar 12, 2021 15:24:18 GMT 1
And i added velocity stacks. Because oem rubbers were restricting.
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Post by marrcel on Mar 12, 2021 15:22:48 GMT 1
I cant find a number on the powerjets. It is probably 30. May be mainjet 30 down? I go step by step. Next from 135 to 130 and the needle one up. These were 13€ each.
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Post by marrcel on Mar 11, 2021 20:52:11 GMT 1
Without the drilled floath valves power stopped at 8krpm. At the mo i try to do the jetting. With a powerjet it is new to me. From 3/4 to 4/4 throttle it is still to rich. Running an empty airbox. 35pilot and 135 main jet. What is your set up?
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Post by marrcel on Mar 11, 2021 18:33:34 GMT 1
I got some knock off PWK 30mm powerjet carbs on my LC, I changed the jets for gen ones, also needle valves, as they were dodgy, the coating on the tip was poor, no leaks, started up and running, got to make sure I have jetting correct, but so far a thumbs up. I did do a massive search when looking, there are many that look poor casting, I looked until I found some that had a make on them, they were a tad more expensive £52 for the pair, but I felt get some that someone is happy to put a make on, ZSDTRP is the make on them. How did you change the floath needle valves? I drilled the needle valve seating bigger of my pwk30 and placed longer needles. Did you managed to get the brass seating out?
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Post by marrcel on Mar 11, 2021 18:15:18 GMT 1
I used a battery powered impact driver. Prrrrt and loose😉👍
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Post by marrcel on Mar 2, 2021 20:50:45 GMT 1
Anyone with a lathe can do it. Just instruct them what to do.
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Post by marrcel on Mar 2, 2021 18:07:36 GMT 1
Dubbled the holes and enlarged 92sec black Alu 138sec red Alu reversed flow 136sec res Alu
So the paper filter can be exchanged by the black one.
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Post by marrcel on Mar 2, 2021 14:33:09 GMT 1
I will show the tuned filters later.
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Post by marrcel on Mar 2, 2021 14:32:02 GMT 1
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Post by marrcel on Mar 2, 2021 14:31:26 GMT 1
Today i tested some fuel filters with water. On FB a lot people said paper filters are bad. They are not that bad at all. Here are my results. Filter flow 51sec 1L no filter 108sec paper filter 4,0mm 132sec Black alu 4,0mm 184sec copper grid 3,0mm 300sec Red alu 3,5mm
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Post by marrcel on Feb 27, 2021 21:50:42 GMT 1
I can’t remember. 5kOhm? Just take it out and measure the two outer leads. The middle is the runner which is fulnerable
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Post by marrcel on Feb 26, 2021 22:53:19 GMT 1
The servo is easier than lego. 😉
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Post by marrcel on Feb 26, 2021 17:58:28 GMT 1
You can measure the potmeter separately. This is the first to go kaput. The carbon strip wears. When measure the resistance and reading spikes, it is toasted. But it is replaceable.
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Post by marrcel on Feb 26, 2021 17:50:20 GMT 1
417€ fine? I hope you went flat out on the Bakker. At least that’s value for money 😉
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Post by marrcel on Feb 25, 2021 19:09:17 GMT 1
And amp meter you place it in series not across😤 Just measure the voltage across the servo at the moment it spins. It must be higher than 11V. Lower than 9V it spins to slow
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Post by marrcel on Feb 25, 2021 19:06:22 GMT 1
I agree with you Tony. Last time i removed almost al cable slack. And voila finding neutral was easier. I am looking for a R6 or R1 at the mo😉
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Post by marrcel on Feb 25, 2021 18:48:53 GMT 1
F2 has no washer, only the 31k had a nut and washer Screw in the puller, tighten it as much as you dare, f*ck it with a big hammer If it doesn't come off like that then leave it tightened and sit a fan heater pointing at it and wait for the crack Strve I don’t like the hit with a big hammer at my crank bearings. I use a cheap battery powered impact gun. That makes it easier and just do the job without any other negative effects 👍
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Post by marrcel on Feb 10, 2021 18:16:32 GMT 1
My advice is to begin with the clip at the bottom. Then one up. Test at 1/4 throttle. Smaller increments can be made with a washer under the clip.
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Post by marrcel on Feb 10, 2021 18:02:17 GMT 1
Someone wanted to thighten the cranck seal😤
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