antos
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Post by antos on Feb 12, 2017 20:38:33 GMT 1
He he thanks lads just wanted to make sureπ
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 12, 2017 19:34:37 GMT 1
Lads I'm going to be getting my f2 frame powder coated soon and was wondering what do I do with the ally frame number plate that's pop riveted onto frame rail? Drill them out and put new ones in after powder coat? Cheers antos
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 7, 2017 23:17:33 GMT 1
Had this on my LC2 where there was a "pressure" pulse from the LH exhaust but not from the RH exhaust and also having trouble balancing the carbs on tickover as the throttle stop screw seemed to have no effect on the RH side. Eventually found that the top reed on the RH side wasn't closing fully and by turning it over the reed closed and sorted the problem. The standard metal reeds are fitted and when looked at from the side they are slightly "Concave" so if you fit them wrong you get a gap. It does very briefly mention this in the Haynes and Yamaha workshop manual about when reassembling the reed valve assembly to align the cutaway in the reed and reed stopper when installing the reeds. Tone But even if the reeds were not sealing shouldn't there still be enough suction from the crankcase ? Surely it's the suction that actually forces the reeds open?
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 7, 2017 22:33:44 GMT 1
Cheers Tony yea that all makes sense to me, the engine hasn't been touched in all these years so it's a gem really no chewed screws etc, 22k miles on it pressure in both pots was exactly 95psi, stable tooπ So can't see any reason to suspect pistons or rings so unless there's a big hole in left crankcase somewhere to me it can only be the seal surely
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 7, 2017 21:09:30 GMT 1
Is your head gasket good ? I had an issue on a pv engine. Left pot not getting hot, and virtually no pressure from that exhaust. I had a stripped stud - I thought the head was torqued down but it wasn't tight enough, and coolant was being drawn in on that side. Right side was fine, but left was much cooler and exhaust pressure was nothing like the right side. 2 new studs sorted it. Dusty If head gasket has gone Wouldn't the pressure reading from the compression test I've done show a drop on the gauge on left cylinder?
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 7, 2017 21:07:00 GMT 1
Cheers dusty one to keep in mindπ Well I think I've found the problem , I've fired it up and removed the carb rubbers to air box and put my hand over the carb inlet , the right cylinder wants to suck my hand in the left is not sucking at all so I reckon it's crank seal fooked. What you all think?
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 7, 2017 16:11:37 GMT 1
If I get time I'll swap the carbs over tonight I've got spare fuel pipe, I've actually tried 4 different spark plugs in the no go cylinder, and used the opposite ht lead still nothing so that says to me ignition is ok, I'll report back lads thanksπ
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 6, 2017 20:57:18 GMT 1
Thanks, well the side that has very little pressure (generator side) is a lot colder the can hardley warms up whereas other side is hot, stripped carb down 3 times blew threw everything with airline, including emulsion tube. Float is not punctured level is correct I'm fairly confident now it's not the carb, compression tested at 95psi, (both pots the same) swapped plug leads over (still the same) new plugs , pretty much stumped now to be honest.
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 6, 2017 13:36:21 GMT 1
Thanks mate, I've deffo got a problem then ,
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 6, 2017 11:45:34 GMT 1
Hi guys, Should I be able to feel the same amount of pressure coming out of both pipes? Pipes are not blocked, the one which isn't pushing out hardly any pressure was blocked with an oily sludge but I've drained it. Thanks
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 6, 2017 9:32:33 GMT 1
Thank you sir π It's a new one so should be somewhere nearπ So really my 95 reading is a bit below par but should still run ok me thinks.
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 5, 2017 21:44:38 GMT 1
Did a compression test today and its showing 95 psi on both cylinders bike has 22k miles anyone know what's the normal range? Thanks
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 5, 2017 20:37:02 GMT 1
If the crank seals go do you get no pressure out of the exhaust pipe? As that's what's happening . Confused . Spent all weekend on the thing,
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 5, 2017 20:34:21 GMT 1
Wowza what a collection mate beauty's π
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 5, 2017 15:34:18 GMT 1
Right guys I left the exhaust stood up last night, this morning a black sludge oil has came out ! Blew through it and less restriction, so I removed the little screw on bottom of can and more (liquid came out so I've been at it all day shaking and blowing through it till it's nearly the same as the other pipe now. so the question is what the heck is it? My worst thought is left crank oil seal gone . Hope not any thoughts lads? Cheers Tony
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 5, 2017 1:04:16 GMT 1
Thanks mateπ
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 4, 2017 23:38:11 GMT 1
Damn it I'd hoped I could of removed the baffle and tried to clean it, huhm need to think about this π
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 4, 2017 22:34:57 GMT 1
Hi , Well I'll be blowed !! I've taken the exhaust off and blew through it and you can hardly blow through it!!! Might just of solved my problem thanks to youπ A little bit fuel came outwhen I tipped it up but it must be carbon or baffles collapsed ? So just to confirm I took the right pipe off and you can blow straight through it no problemπ Do the baffles come out on the f2 cans? Thanks Tony
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 4, 2017 22:32:02 GMT 1
Compression test it , i had a similar issue with my 4l1 checked everthing . Did a comp check and discovered a cracked piston , i was amazed it ran in that state and i guess lucky as it could of self destructed at any point . hi Dave mr amazon prime is bringing said tester tomorrow lol so I'll know soon enoughπ
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 4, 2017 22:17:48 GMT 1
may seem a funny question, but have you removed the exhaust. I ask because if the laft hand exahaust has filled with fuel it effectively stops that cylindar firing. My LC did this and I know of others too. it was caused by a leaky fuel valve in the carb, the effect was just what you are experiencing. Hi , Well I'll be blowed !! I've taken the exhaust off and blew through it and you can hardly blow through it!!! Might just of solved my problem thanks to youπ A little bit fuel came outwhen I tipped it up but it must be carbon or baffles collapsed ? So just to confirm I took the right pipe off and you can blow straight through it no problemπ Do the baffles come out on the f2 cans? Thanks Tony
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 4, 2017 18:54:23 GMT 1
Hi mate and thanks for the reply no I havnt, I'll pull it tomorrow and seeπ Thank you
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 4, 2017 13:40:22 GMT 1
Hi lads, no I never took emulsion tube out. it's running but won't rev when I disconnect the right plug lead, Feels like its flat as a fart slow to rev if you know what I mean. if I take off the left plug lead bike starts up and revs ok on right cylinder. reed valves maybe?
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 4, 2017 0:16:38 GMT 1
I've cleaned the affected cylinder carb out , there was a bit crap in there checked float height , unscrewed jet ,needle valve, blew everything out with compressed air and put it all back together, and the bugger still isn't firing on left pot, both plugs out again to check spark and spark is good. New plugs too, br9 es . would the reed valves cause this? Right cylinder runs and gets hot left isn't ?
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 3, 2017 19:52:38 GMT 1
Kostas you sir are a starπ it stopped working as it wasn't getting any power , the fuse had blown and like you said once I'd taken the cables out of the pulley it works perfectly. No chatteringπ One of the cables going to the powervalve had seized inside its outer sheath and that's what was causing the problem. So i need some cables and it should be ok, I'm going to take the carbs off tomorrow and strip and clean them paying particular attention to the left carb and hopefully get it running on both pots. I'll report back laterπ
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 3, 2017 13:58:33 GMT 1
Take the cables out completely and try again. Check that the fuses in the fusebox are all ok. Don't buy a servo unless you have ruled out the controller. There are no physical limits on the servo, only a feedback pot. Kostas Thank you kostas I will try that tonight, it does seem strange as it was turning then when I unhooked cables at valve end it moved then nothing, as though it's died? By controller do you mean the black box in middle of frame rails about 4inches square? Thanks for the help mateπ
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 2, 2017 22:56:07 GMT 1
Right I've swapped over the ht leads and still only fires on the right pot, nothing on left so must be fuelπ As for the power valve servo that was chattering, I've disconnected the cables as mentioned (at the barrel end )then turned ignition on the servo made a noise then nothing!? Now when I turn ignition on and off I'm getting not a squeak from it? Someone earlier mentioned limits has it gone past them and now buggered it? The cables were a bit rusty so I'll need to buy some .Help
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 2, 2017 10:08:44 GMT 1
Compression is good so that's ok, put finger over plug hole blew my finger offπ
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 2, 2017 10:04:53 GMT 1
what a forum and cracking set of lads π Thank you so much I'll try all of these over the weekend and let you know how I get onπ The servo is juddering back and forth yesπ And I'm forgetting all the old tricks like swapping plug leads over, what a numpty lol many thanks lads
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 1, 2017 23:22:46 GMT 1
Cheers mattπ
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antos
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Post by antos on Feb 1, 2017 23:15:22 GMT 1
Cheers Matt, my tank would probably seal but it's dented and scabby anyways,
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