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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 25, 2022 1:16:34 GMT 1
Hello Andy all of the above is more or less correct. Without knowing the correct diameter of your tyre i say more or less.
At 5500 RPM you should be doing close to 60 mph
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 25, 2022 0:46:00 GMT 1
Left to right Curt Langan, Kenny Irons, Geoff Cannel, Steve Chambers I thought the one on the left was Harry Enfield
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 25, 2022 0:38:30 GMT 1
Good to see new products still coming out for these old smokers. Or get a VJ23 RGV, not that they are cheap. Do you mean one like this? with pipes
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 25, 2022 0:30:57 GMT 1
Very nice, it is not cheap but if you are making a special engine and you add up the prices of the clutch parts, gearwheels and water pump? This might not work out that much more expensive. If it has been designed well and will be made from billet they may have made the water pump design better as well. You will have a sweet clutch action instead of a prehistoric locker or gorila grip clutch lever. After dipping my toe in the dry clutch water i guess i could make them for less but it wouldn'nt be so suave as this rendering. And no i am not touting for customers. Buy this and watch all the jaws drop.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 25, 2022 0:02:01 GMT 1
Ok thanks for everyones input, I've decided on a plan of action which doesn't require reversing the arm. The plan is to make a small sliding "cam" (it's going to be like a wedge) which sits on the underneath of the rearset. Fitted to the back of the brake arm roughly under the area of the E&R from the "Bakker" word will be a small pin which will protrude out and contact the underside of the wedge. This position might change if i have clearance issues with the exhaust pipe when i depress the lever. Then i can adjust the angle of the actuating rod lever for a better position and leverage. I just have to wait on the man with the milling machine !!! IF it take's too long i will break out the saw and files
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 24, 2022 23:31:40 GMT 1
Looks like i need to send you the drawings for my brake pedal stop. Its fun doing small projects like this and the best bit is you dont have to wait on somebody. "Looks like i need to send you the drawings for my brake pedal stop." Oh no I've changed my mind i want within the next four weeks.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 24, 2022 23:23:54 GMT 1
Little update on this build, I've put a fair few miles on it now and am near fully run in. First test drive was terrible the bike had a massive bog around quarter/half throttle and would not clear through it would rev fine in neutral but not under load. There was also alot of what I can only describe as stuttering/ chugging going on just off throttle similar to when your running out of fuel. As you can imagine not the best of first impressions 😬 Jetting was: 160 main 45 pilot Cgl needle middle clip 1 1/2 turns on airscrew. Second attempt same jetting but I moved the needles to there leanest setting. This made it run even worse massive bog and wouldn't rev out still. This would indicate I'm too lean on the needle I thought so instead of trying it with needles in the richest setting which I should of done I swapped out the pilots. Third attempt I upped the pilots to 58's (only set of bigger ones I had) Needles back in the middle position. The bike ran better it still had a bog but cleared through but only just it still ran like crap. Fourth attempt swapped pilots back to 45's Needles on richest setting The bike ran the best it had so far still a bog but it cleared through quicker and made the bike more rideable. I could now twist the throttle and it would drive through the bog things were looking up 😀. Now i could feel glimpses of what was waiting for me at the other side of the bog 😉 still taking it steady and not going mental I put on a fair few miles going up and down the revs to get it ran in. Seen as I'm at the richest setting on the needle now I ordered the next richest needles which are cel. Next test with cel needles in middle position the bike ran even better the stuttering has gone and the bog is getting lesser its still there but no were near were it was. I then tried some 40 pilots and this is were I'm at now. 40 pilots Cel middle clip 160 mains It would appear these big carbs like smaller pilots richer needle settings to help through the flat spot. I am getting close on jetting now and think there are improvements to be made still but the bike runs great it is very much like how the bike ran originally with the lc engine in with pipes and pods but on another level. The power delivery is the same best described similar to old lagy turbo car great fun but not the smoothest of rides 😂. Overall the athenas do what you would expect they are raw, exciting,scary power hit especially with big carbs . I managed to grab some rc30 front discs that were near new condition only used on wets so thes are now fitted also got rear brake all setup👍 This is such a nice write up. Thankyou for taking the time to explain in detail what you did with jetting. I did notice on the dyno that the pilot jets from the PWK's have a big influence through out the powewr curve. I was changing the main jets up and down to find a spot i was happy with. Then i changed the pilots up one size and it gave an extra 3 or 4 hp on the top that i didnt expect. When i was setting the carbs up by riding and doing plug chops i decided to make the pilot size smaller.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 19, 2022 0:49:41 GMT 1
Well at the mo your beam is curved down. Take it of and other way around so it's curved up. Then you have to change the pedal the other way from inwards to outwards. Hope you can visualize that That I could visualise but I still need a stop. Hopefully made and fitted next week.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 18, 2022 22:18:33 GMT 1
Yes it's a bit more involved than only the length.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 18, 2022 18:59:05 GMT 1
Ha ha I'm a bit slow today.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 18, 2022 18:39:32 GMT 1
The tuner I used did just what Tony suggested. He was explaining some of the principles of how the exhaust works. He turned up two extension pieces to add to the front of the exhaust pipes. He put it on the dyno and measured the difference. The spacers were 28mm long, it dropped peak power down roughly 600 rpm and made 3 or 4 pk in the midrange section. If I get a chance I will post the dyno readout. It could be in my tuning thread. I have to say that Pieter the tuner did this just to explain some of the principles after the workshop was closed. I would look at that option although I do think it's a bit of a band aid. I don’t quite see what these exhausts have in common with a charity supergroup? Jon Explain as I'm a bit sluggish this morning
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 18, 2022 18:17:06 GMT 1
The tuner I used did just what Tony suggested. He was explaining some of the principles of how the exhaust works. He turned up two extension pieces to add to the front of the exhaust pipes. He put it on the dyno and measured the difference. The spacers were 28mm long, it dropped peak power down roughly 600 rpm and made 3 or 4 pk in the midrange section.
If I get a chance I will post the dyno readout. It could be in my tuning thread.
I have to say that Pieter the tuner did this just to explain some of the principles after the workshop was closed.
I would look at that option although I do think it's a bit of a band aid.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 17, 2022 22:26:07 GMT 1
The cases do look nice. What about magnesium carbs. Might as well go fo the price of two fire blades. Don't you start 🤣 I've got the carbs already and just boring old alloy Bought the filters last week too 😁 Steve Magnesium engine covers= dry clutch 🤣😂🤣😂
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 17, 2022 22:24:26 GMT 1
Those hydro formed pipes look great.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 17, 2022 22:20:47 GMT 1
Another idea is to flip the arm upside down. Hi Marcel can you explain what you mean as I can't visualise your suggestion.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 17, 2022 22:05:54 GMT 1
The cases do look nice.
What about magnesium carbs. Might as well go fo the price of two fire blades.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 17, 2022 21:54:58 GMT 1
When I first got back into the RD scene my engine was 400cc power valve with the valves pinned open. I didn't know any different back then and used the carbs I had. They were 250 carbs. I didn't follow any rules and just jetted them to suit just like any other carb. It was trial and error. I had no problems with the carburation. It made 70 pk
I only changed them later to 350 carbs due to all the chatter on this site. Since then it's had a few different types fitted and the performance has basically stayed the same once jetted correctly.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 6, 2022 16:46:37 GMT 1
Am I right in thinking the centre crank pin is a separate part? Does it interfere with the big ends if it were pressed through an extra 1mm or so into the web if an LC lab seal was used? Steve The first crank I built was with a separate center pin so it was very easy as I think it is 2mm longer than a YPVS. This crank was bought second hand. I then bought a new +4mm crank which the center pin came as one piece with a web. I know a man who can repair camshafts so I gave it to him to make it longer. There seems to be a few versions for crank construction.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 6, 2022 16:38:51 GMT 1
Ironically, I have a modified 4L0 crankshaft that is fitted to my 400cc YPVS engine.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 6, 2022 1:17:37 GMT 1
Rob thanks for the pictures. It clearly shows the crank can fit. Which makes me more curious to the tolerances used when manufacturing the cases. I know there are a few different ways to construct the cranks. I actually took all my measurements from the center of the crank outwards.
You need to have clearance for the crank webb's. As you probably know the crankshafts can spread. You need to take this into consideration.
I just stuck to the same tolerances that I think were standard. By that I mean I copied the dimensions of a 4L0 crankshaft which I believed to be standard.
Off the top of my head I would say minimal 0.30mm.
I've measured a few cranks that have spread. They can move open to give an axial clearance of 0.90mm and the Webb will still not touch the casing. Check the original 4L0 Webb clearances to help you decide.
One thing I have noticed on 4L0 cranks is the use of two different thickness thrust washers and I often wonder if these are used because it's easier to use YPVS parts when manufacturing a 4L0 crank? Maybe chippy can pour some light on this observation.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 5, 2022 18:11:03 GMT 1
I just can not understand how a standard YPVS crank center will fit into a 4L0/1 set of cases without being modified.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 5, 2022 1:49:07 GMT 1
An Australian icon. Even Keven Bloody Wilson sings about him. RIP.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 5, 2022 1:42:06 GMT 1
Hi Shaun I'm not answering this for John but. I think we are still boy racers at heart even though we can't bend so much or are a bit rusty and full of cobwebs.
Why put a YPVS engine in a 4Lwhatever when you can produce good power out an original engine with the correct modifications. It's in the DNA of us.
Plus it's sticking two fingers up to the YPVS brigade who have always had the luxury of more power.
I now officially apologize to Steve and Matt from the YPVS maffia.
No bollocks power valves are for hairdressers
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 5, 2022 1:28:16 GMT 1
I've done it twice and I honestly think the easiest way forward is ask mutts or chippy. If they don't want to do it supply crankworks in America with the correct specifitation and they will make you one. You can machine your engine cases to fit a YPVS crank but it leaves less area for the sealing of the cases.
Morgy has used a YPVS crankshaft in LC cases and to be honest I'm gagging to know how it performs. By that I believe in the performance, but how will it cope with reliability over time. This statement is not a nee sayer over Morgy' s choice. Just curiosity on my part.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 5, 2022 1:16:20 GMT 1
I use second hand Yamaha clutch cables from FZ, R6 etc. I then cut the end to suit the engine, handlebars etc and solder a fitting to the end. Earlier I used the Venhill kit, but you just can't beat the original cables for the silky smooth operation
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Post by Tobyjugs on Mar 1, 2022 15:44:58 GMT 1
Nice to see a bit of colour on the pipes.
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 28, 2022 1:22:34 GMT 1
How did you get on with balancing the carbs?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 27, 2022 21:36:25 GMT 1
Lovely bike, with nice upgrades
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 21, 2022 13:15:37 GMT 1
Hi Bill is it possible to orientated the brake drum lever to point up and re-route the brake rod?
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 21, 2022 4:00:35 GMT 1
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