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Post by billbott on Feb 19, 2022 16:51:56 GMT 1
The rear brake rod on my 350Lc has a couple of bends to allow it to route under the Metmachex swinging arm. When I apply the rear brake, it’s trying to pull the rod straight so I’m not getting much purchase on my rear brake, it doesn’t really work very well.
Has anyone had the same and overcome it? The rod is a yambits one.
Been considering making one from a piece of 8mm bat (original is 6mm.)
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Post by ianr4863 on Feb 19, 2022 18:20:27 GMT 1
When I fitted my Metmachex arm I used one of Norbos stainless steel brake rods and bent it to the shape I wanted . It works perfectly . Might be another Yambits item to steer clear of .
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Post by andy748 on Feb 19, 2022 20:15:22 GMT 1
The rear brake rod on my 350Lc has a couple of bends to allow it to route under the Metmachex swinging arm. When I apply the rear brake, it’s trying to pull the rod straight so I’m not getting much purchase on my rear brake, it doesn’t really work very well. Has anyone had the same and overcome it? The rod is a yambits one. Been considering making one from a piece of 8mm bat (original is 6mm.) Hi Bill, if you need an original one, i have one hanging up in the garage, yours for nowt if it's any good to you? Andy. |
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Post by stusco on Feb 19, 2022 20:33:43 GMT 1
I had the same problem,i got an original one from a forum member,I might have put a little bend in it to make it fit, i think i originally bought a yambits one
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Post by billbott on Feb 20, 2022 10:13:02 GMT 1
The rear brake rod on my 350Lc has a couple of bends to allow it to route under the Metmachex swinging arm. When I apply the rear brake, it’s trying to pull the rod straight so I’m not getting much purchase on my rear brake, it doesn’t really work very well. Has anyone had the same and overcome it? The rod is a yambits one. Been considering making one from a piece of 8mm bat (original is 6mm.) Hi Bill, if you need an original one, i have one hanging up in the garage, yours for nowt if it's any good to you? Andy. Hi Andy, Looking at the post below yours, it looks like an original one may well work, that’s a very kind offer so yes please! Thanks very much. Bill |
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Post by andy748 on Feb 20, 2022 11:09:14 GMT 1
No probs Bill, p.m. yer address over and i'll get it posted tomorrow mate. Andy.
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Post by billbott on Feb 20, 2022 18:53:56 GMT 1
No probs Bill, p.m. yer address over and i'll get it posted tomorrow mate. Andy. Hi Andy, Right, this afternoon I found a genuine (rusty) brake rod (still connected to the pedal even..) It’s not really much better than the yambits one. Strangely, the original is 5.5mm diameter and the yambits 6mm..... So, I have started to make one myself. I just need a piece of 8mm stainless steel 316 from work tomorrow (or even titanium if I’m extremely lucky)! I will let you know how I go on. Thanks again for the offer , really appreciate it. Bill |
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Post by 29davyt on Feb 20, 2022 19:35:42 GMT 1
I saw a bike with a cable fitted recently,
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Post by stusco on Feb 20, 2022 19:37:07 GMT 1
It was my mot guy that pointed out my brake rod it passed the mot but only just on the back brake ,now its as good as a disc brake
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Post by 29davyt on Feb 20, 2022 19:39:41 GMT 1
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Post by billbott on Feb 20, 2022 19:45:06 GMT 1
I’m hoping that a piece of 8mm stainless steel will hold its shape better. Or a piece of 10mm titanium even more so.
Plus it’s absolutely p!sing it down here and it’s keeping me busy 😂😂😂
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Post by Tobyjugs on Feb 21, 2022 13:15:37 GMT 1
Hi Bill is it possible to orientated the brake drum lever to point up and re-route the brake rod?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Feb 21, 2022 13:44:33 GMT 1
Hi Bill is it possible to orientated the brake drum lever to point up and re-route the brake rod? Or get another brake arm, cut/weld/bend to give more offset so the brake rod can run straight to the pedal Steve |
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Post by billbott on Feb 21, 2022 15:36:22 GMT 1
Hi Bill is it possible to orientated the brake drum lever to point up and re-route the brake rod? Hi Toby, Not really no, it makes it worse and needs even more bends  |
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Post by billbott on Feb 21, 2022 15:38:04 GMT 1
Hi Bill is it possible to orientated the brake drum lever to point up and re-route the brake rod? Or get another brake arm, cut/weld/bend to give more offset so the brake rod can run straight to the pedal Steve Eyup Steve, Tried that first, but it looks a bit odd. I now have a piece of 8.5mm diameter Titanium in my claws so will make something from that, if for no other reason than it keeps me busy in the garage.... |
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Post by billbott on Feb 27, 2022 18:49:06 GMT 1
Ok, thought I should update this thread. Sorted it out by making my own brake rod from a piece of 8.5mm diameter titanium that I acquired.... It was a right job to bend it so it does keep its shape when actuating the brake . My swingarm is an early metmachex and I’m using a shock off an SV650. I have to have the eccentric adjusters in the upper position to achieve a good chain run but this means a straight brake rod rubs on the side and bottom of the arm. Anyway, all done now.   |
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Post by steve63 on Mar 8, 2022 21:20:45 GMT 1
Probably the only LC in existence with a titanium brake rod. Did you turn it down to put a 6mm thread on it?
I've got a length of 1/2" titanium tube I acquired from work over 20 years ago. Still not found anything to use it for. Maybe a clock bracket for the track bike one day.
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Post by billbott on Mar 9, 2022 18:50:27 GMT 1
Probably the only LC in existence with a titanium brake rod. Did you turn it down to put a 6mm thread on it? I've got a length of 1/2" titanium tube I acquired from work over 20 years ago. Still not found anything to use it for. Maybe a clock bracket for the track bike one day. I cheated: I drilled and tapped the end and screwed a piece of A4 stainless m6 threaded bar into it, secured by loctite 😊 |
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Post by steve63 on Mar 9, 2022 19:21:56 GMT 1
Probably the only LC in existence with a titanium brake rod. Did you turn it down to put a 6mm thread on it? I've got a length of 1/2" titanium tube I acquired from work over 20 years ago. Still not found anything to use it for. Maybe a clock bracket for the track bike one day. I cheated: I drilled and tapped the end and screwed a piece of A4 stainless m6 threaded bar into it, secured by loctite 😊 That sounds like a trickier job than threading it directly rather than cheating 😃 |
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Post by billbott on Mar 10, 2022 8:17:02 GMT 1
I cheated: I drilled and tapped the end and screwed a piece of A4 stainless m6 threaded bar into it, secured by loctite 😊 That sounds like a trickier job than threading it directly rather than cheating 😃 Steve, machining titanium is tricky to say the least when you have limited tooling. 😊 |
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Post by steve63 on Mar 10, 2022 9:14:28 GMT 1
That sounds like a trickier job than threading it directly rather than cheating 😃 Steve, machining titanium is tricky to say the least when you have limited tooling. 😊 I've made silencers out of 1mm titanium and welded it at home and work but other than drilling it I've not had any experience of machining it. It's very springing and takes a bit of rolling. I would think it was softer than stainless to turn? We had some titanium seawater cooling coils at work that came with 1/4" BSP plugs in. They all got thrown away. Obviously being a tatter I took them all home. Still not found a use for them after twenty years 😃 |
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Post by billbott on Mar 10, 2022 18:52:11 GMT 1
Steve, machining titanium is tricky to say the least when you have limited tooling. 😊 I've made silencers out of 1mm titanium and welded it at home and work but other than drilling it I've not had any experience of machining it. It's very springing and takes a bit of rolling. I would think it was softer than stainless to turn? We had some titanium seawater cooling coils at work that came with 1/4" BSP plugs in. They all got thrown away. Obviously being a tatter I took them all home. Still not found a use for them after twenty years 😃 It’s very sticky to turn, the swarf welds itself to the tip and makes the material hot. Even with proper coolant on a CNC it’s not that easy, although as we don’t do a lot of it we aren’t experts. We are more used to nickel alloys and stainless to be honest. |
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