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Post by copper99 on Aug 23, 2014 16:17:54 GMT 1
Great build thread mate, enjoying reading about your progress, bikes going to be a stunner when shes done..I wish id have the knowledge to get the gear change shaft bush fitted to mine when the engine was built.
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Post by yamark on Aug 24, 2014 16:01:42 GMT 1
Thanks Copper99, the bush was really easy to fit and should cure what I think is a weak point on the LC.
I stripped the engine and had a few surprises. Bear in mind this engine [according to the previous owner] was rebuilt not that long ago with a new crank and the Stan Stevens 380cc stage 2 top end fitted has only covered about a thousand miles along with a new clutch. First job after flattening the sprocket locktab the nut could be undone by hand. The generator nut was tightened to 90 ft/lb. I thought I'd tackle the clutch nut next, but couldn't shift the nut [I've not got an air gun]. I had to put the engine on the floor and while I stood on the top of the engine my son couldn't shift it after he put 160 ft/lb So I got my 3 foot long bar 3/4" drive and an extension bar. It undid at around 220 ft/lb [guess]
Now my problem is if the primary drive nut is that tight I'm sure the crank will twist out of true so I decided to cut the nut off
5 mins and sorted, new nuts to be fitted.
Once the cases were apart all I used was the crank which looks freshly rebuilt. New seals from Norbo. Clutch had new plates and springs and measured as new. Clutch outer drum was very worn as was bush, sleeve and all gearbox/selector parts showing high mileage [I will use a nearly new clutch outer drum and primary drive gear that I've been keeping and a complete ultra low mileage gearbox on the rebuild].
Gear shaft is a perfect 2nd hand one. All gearbox bearings perfect except the double bearing behind the clutch so I renewed Gen Yam of course
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Post by greasemeup on Aug 25, 2014 5:24:59 GMT 1
No tape on throttle side?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Post by yamark on Aug 25, 2014 7:51:23 GMT 1
Yes tape on the throttle tube. My camera is s**t and I can't afford a new one as Mr Yamaha has all my beer tokens. You can just see the ridges in the picture but the backing tape is white. When backing removed the double sided tape is almost clear and very thin
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Post by greasemeup on Aug 25, 2014 7:59:21 GMT 1
Awesome write up. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Post by yamark on Aug 25, 2014 18:05:35 GMT 1
More parts - main shaft double bearing, grab rail bolts, screws for bearing retainer, crank nut etc. Throttle cable, oil pump cover, lower clock cover and headlight bowl
Head gasket and new rear seat cowl [NLA from Yamaha], it's quite hard to stay ahead of ordering parts you need to fit in a week or so.
The seat cowl is the last new part I need for the bodywork [mudguard came new with the bike]. Tank is the best second hand one I could get So all this lot is off to my mate Lee for painting
Cylinders and head painted
Piston kits - max oversize
I've got the engines bottom end back together but haven't uploaded photo's. I'll post them up in the next couple of days
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Post by LC_BOTT on Aug 25, 2014 20:40:58 GMT 1
Hi, just wondered how quickly parts are arriving after ordering, are you getting it from Fowlers?
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Post by yamark on Aug 25, 2014 21:18:28 GMT 1
Thanks Greasemeup.
Hi LC_BOTT, your spot on , my early list of parts from Norbo if competitive. Second main list was ordered through my local bike dealer [who I worked for as a mechanic many years ago, hence discount], they get the parts from Fowlers. Now I'm ordering parts every few days as I need them and they arrive in 2 days, sooner if I say a part is urgent. Used Grampian for pistons. I also search Ebay worldwide for new parts.
The spares guys know me really well as my rd400 and kwack H1 spares were ordered from them as well. I drive them all mad and they duck behind the counter when I walk in with my part no. lists. Part numbers from CD or I have a microfiche reader. They tell me over the phone if a part is still available but Yamaha's stock lists are not up to date sometimes. - seat cowl shows limited stocks in blue, I ordered one only to be told a week later no longer available.
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Post by yamark on Aug 27, 2014 19:29:37 GMT 1
New crankcase nuts and top case bolts
Next new dowels as the old ones were corroded.
All the bolts/nuts washers for the engine mounts, engine mount plates, also tie bar bolts and washers.
Front tie bar bracket bolts/washers
Engine bottom end built and installed
New pushrod, neutral switch and screws , gear shaft sleeve and sump plug The 2 black screws are for the bearing retainer behind the clutch.
You can see the rusty dowel
On to the right hand side of the engine [another of the rusty dowels before I replaced it]
New primary drive nut as the original is in 2 pieces
Finally nearly new outer and inner clutch drum, sleeve two large thrust washers fitted. Plates and springs measure as new [1,000 miles old]
Both the side cases are being stoved satin black and should be back in a week or so
I'm grinding out the thermo housing at the moment to take a thermostat, then I can build the top end
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Post by yamark on Aug 30, 2014 15:13:41 GMT 1
This generator and fly wheel have come off the same low miles German bike
Because the fly wheel has come from a different engine I lapped it to the crankshaft. The taper on the crank should match the taper on the flywheel. To do this remove the woodruff key then put fine valve grinding paste on the taper. then put the flywheel on and rotate back and forward. Lift the flywheel now and then and rotate to a new position and repeat. Takes about 2 minutes. Your done when both tapers are matt grey. Clean up, put your woodruff key in, fit stator plate and tighten nut
Cleaned up and ready to fit flywheel.
New inlet rubbers, low mileage UK reed valves and new bolts
Re zinced head bolts/washers. New thermo housing bolts/washer New bolts for the water pipe to cylinder head and new cylinder drain bolts
Cylinders assembled, new studs/nuts I check my ring gaps, install rings and fit the inboard circlip in the pistons. I then put pistons in the bores
Base gasket next, then smallends [everything lubed with 2 stroke oil]. I then put rag in crankcase mouth, lower cylinder with piston in the bore, push piston pin in and install outer circlip.
Cylinder head next, tightened Then I find top dead centre, zero gauge, rotate flywheel back 2.00 mm BTDC and align timing marks. Tighten stator bolts I'll check timing with a strobe light later.
Thermo housing ground out [sorry about picture]
Thermostat fitted
Parts ready to install
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Post by bogbrush on Aug 31, 2014 9:35:48 GMT 1
These are such good reference pictures, I'll be making full use of them when I start rebuilding my engine. Great tip about lapping the flywheel to the crank, I'll be doing this too. This is going to be one properly sorted bike, can't wait to see pics of the finished bike. Keep up the great work.
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Post by yamark on Aug 31, 2014 18:20:19 GMT 1
Cheers Bogbrush [such a cool name], Really nice comments. With all the talented guys on this forum I'm worried I'm stating the obvious, going into to much detail or teaching people to suck eggs! I was once told by a very wise man - with flywheels, the taper holds, the woodruff key only locates. In other words if you don't match the tapers the woodruff key will shear possibly damaging the groove in the crankshaft
Looking forward to you posting your build
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Post by yamark on Sept 2, 2014 16:58:40 GMT 1
Bit more progress. carbs rebuilt a while ago
I have the float bowl drain screws on order
New carb clamps, balance pipe clips, airbox to carb rubbers and polished balance pipe
Carbs in
A couple of pictures I forgot to post. Side panels [from Norbo] fitted to check if the needed any adjustment. They were a perfect fit, so sent to the painters
Collected my grab rail from chrome platters
Lastly I won on Ebay a pair of later style cylinders I bought these to future proof the bike. They look standard spec Just been re-bored to +1.75 and came with new pistons/rings All threads perfect and cost £220 I thought this was pretty good as a re-bore is £50 a pair, new piston kit £100 a pair so I've got the cylinders for £70!
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Post by yamark on Sept 6, 2014 18:34:02 GMT 1
Radiator next. I cleaned this rad up a while ago. New grommets, washers, bolts.
New hose clamps from Norbo, hoses were cleaned up as I've got a couple of sets
Also the rad cover came new with the bike. New fixing screws
Rad in
Rad guard fitted
The rad cap looked in good condition, but now looks crap so a new one on order. The pics of the bike in the garage don't look that great so I'll post up some pics with the bike in the sunshine tomorrow
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rddave
L plate rider.
Posts: 16
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Post by rddave on Sept 7, 2014 19:58:39 GMT 1
Your RD looks fantastic, great progress
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Post by yamark on Sept 7, 2014 20:11:50 GMT 1
Cheers rddave, I've been promised the engine side cases back this week, but have heard that twice before. They are being stove enamelled satin black. I'm about to load up pics from photobucket
Regards Mark
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Post by yamark on Sept 7, 2014 20:21:22 GMT 1
Outside photo's, I think bikes always look better in natural light
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Post by carioca656 on Sept 7, 2014 20:38:21 GMT 1
hi yamark ive got a 2.5 oversize like you and had to get head o ringed as pistons are too big for standard head gasket, here is a pic of head
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Post by carioca656 on Sept 7, 2014 20:38:31 GMT 1
bloody finger stutter again
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Post by yamark on Sept 7, 2014 20:52:54 GMT 1
Well impressed with the work on your head. Nice job. I phoned Stan Stevens as he did the cylinder/ head work, as I was worried about piston size. Spoke to him directly and he said sometimes pistons hit the head gasket, sometimes they miss. If it misses go with a standard gasket. What does everybody think?
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Post by carioca656 on Sept 7, 2014 22:23:01 GMT 1
measure your gasket size your piston is 66.5 mm if your gasket is less then it will hit I had my head widened as well to stop it hitting yours might not need it but mine had been well skimmed
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Post by yamark on Sept 8, 2014 7:53:04 GMT 1
Thanks for info, My cylinder head has been machined to suit. My gasket overhangs by 0.5 mm, and misses the piston. Stan's solution if it hits is fit 2 base gaskets and skim the head! Your solution seems a lot more elegant. When I dismantled the top end, it had a standard head gasket, with no issues.
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Post by carioca656 on Sept 8, 2014 13:21:26 GMT 1
if your head has been machined then your gasket must overlap it, using 2 base gaskets will raise your ports will it not? as you say stan is the man so if hes happy that would do for me
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Post by yamark on Sept 8, 2014 15:28:11 GMT 1
When I spoke to Stan, he suggested that the quality control wasn't great back then. Sometimes the pistons are above the top of the cylinders, sometimes not. Mine are not so will not hit the gasket. When I assembled, before the head went on I put spacers under the head bolts, put a little tension on the bolts and turned the engine over- pistons were just short of the top of the cylinders. I think there's many variables, length of cylinders, thickness of base gasket, where the crankcases are line bored for the crank, piston height above pin. Only bit that I'm not sure of is with the head gasket slightly overhanging will it affect swirl or combustion? Any problems and I will O ring or fit my other cylinders [you head does look the dogs dangly's] I will find out when the bike is finished and let you know how it runs
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rddave
L plate rider.
Posts: 16
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Post by rddave on Sept 9, 2014 8:31:45 GMT 1
Cheers rddave, I've been promised the engine side cases back this week, but have heard that twice before. They are being stove enamelled satin black. I'm about to load up pics from photobucket
Regards Mark What's the benefits of having the cases stove enamelled, instead of powder coated or painted? read lots about powder coating but not stove enamelling.
Thanks Dave
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Post by yamark on Sept 9, 2014 9:09:03 GMT 1
Hi Dave, I'm no expert but paint can be damaged by petrol. If paint is baked on it's more resistant to damage. Powder coating is a good choice but I've been told its hard to repair if it gets chipped. I was told by the company I used that stove enamelling is very resistant to all chemicals, hard wearing and can be touched up.
That's what I was told but I'm a double glazing salesman's dream come true!
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Post by yamark on Sept 11, 2014 7:38:19 GMT 1
Found some time to work on the bike These parts are to mount the exhausts to the hangers. New rubber mounts/collars bolts and washers
Engine side cases are ready, I'll be collecting them later
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Post by arrow on Sept 12, 2014 15:19:18 GMT 1
Great rebuild thread. Excellent work.
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Post by yamark on Sept 12, 2014 16:19:21 GMT 1
Thanks Arrow, your comments are always valued. Cheers for all your help with all my pump related things, is there anything you don't know about fat bodied pumps? Don't answer that question, coz I already know the answer. Will PM you shortly mate
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rddave
L plate rider.
Posts: 16
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Post by rddave on Sept 12, 2014 16:44:11 GMT 1
Just read the Whole thread. Not much of the "polished turd" left. You seem to have replaced most of the bike Plenty of new parts used
Great thread
Dave
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