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Post by rostrumorhospital on Dec 24, 2015 1:27:22 GMT 1
rigga - Got the clock face decals from Norbo, not everybody's cup of tea but I thought they looked quite trick, quite easy to fit, just stick onto the existing clock face but I did find it tricky getting the needles off to allow me to get the dial off, I completely wrecked one of the needles in the process, there are a few threads on how to do the clock refurb if you do a search and I remember seeing a small tool a form member had made up to draw the needle off which looked very handy, I would also recommend not over tightening the screws holding the faces on, possibly a small amount of thread lock on the screws and just nip up, if you look closely at mine the screw head has slightly damaged the decal
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Post by rigga on Dec 24, 2015 1:29:26 GMT 1
Ouch that's a bugger about the needle, the faces do look trick though, and ideal for a special.
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Post by stargixxer on Dec 26, 2015 11:25:22 GMT 1
Build looks great! Where did you eventually get the good pattern tail unit from? Mine is cracked to buggery.
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Post by rostrumorhospital on Dec 26, 2015 11:45:10 GMT 1
if you give 4L04EVER a shout he will hopefully be able to help you
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Post by oldelsieboy on Dec 26, 2015 12:05:24 GMT 1
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Post by steeley on Dec 26, 2015 12:22:36 GMT 1
nice build you are doing. very nice ali welding on the swinging arm ,wish my welding was up to that standard.lol
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Post by stargixxer on Dec 26, 2015 16:00:58 GMT 1
Thanks, was looking at that and the mudguard they sell, just wasnt sure on the quality.
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Post by oldelsieboy on Dec 26, 2015 16:07:06 GMT 1
Thanks, was looking at that and the mudguard they sell, just wasnt sure on the quality. The quality is spot on, probably better than original OEB
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Post by rostrumorhospital on Dec 26, 2015 17:42:08 GMT 1
I have the side panels and the tail unit, excellent quality / fit and very reasonably priced
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paulr
L plate rider.
Posts: 47
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Post by paulr on Dec 26, 2015 19:25:55 GMT 1
That's looking fantastic! Excellent work
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Post by Delbert on Dec 26, 2015 22:01:30 GMT 1
Must admit im not a great lover of hybrids but that does look the part
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Post by rostrumorhospital on Jan 2, 2016 23:30:05 GMT 1
Can any of the LC / RGV Hybrid owners advise if the speedo cable from the RGV fits the LC speedo and is length ok, spent an hour today finding / cleaning / greasing the LC speedo cable only to find it doesn't fit the speedo drive at the front wheel. Should've known better, I know.
Thanks in advance
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Post by jessy03 on Jan 3, 2016 0:10:01 GMT 1
Suzuki bandit 600 from memory, you need to file it down slightly to fit. Jess
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fieldy
L plate rider.
Posts: 18
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Post by fieldy on Jan 3, 2016 11:08:42 GMT 1
Wow that look nice. Like the welding you have done.
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Post by fifty50 on Jan 3, 2016 11:59:20 GMT 1
Very nice,I like the paintwork and the swinging arm is a work of art.
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Post by rostrumorhospital on Feb 9, 2016 1:08:56 GMT 1
Have been working on he footrest hangers, rear brake lever and gear stick, as with most jobs this has turned out to be more involved than I expected, specially the brake side. I definitely wanted to keep the standard LC hangers, for me they are part of the original look I'm after, although I did want to make use of the more modern alloy foot pegs from the donor GSXR 400. To start I had to space the hangers out 20mm to clear the swingarm which I must admit doesn't look that great, but will just have to live with it if you want the bigger arm. I did weld in an alloy plate to the front of the R/H hanger (as well as removing the lug for the old lever stop) this helps to reduce the gap created by the spacer and keeps it looking the same as the L/H hanger. I decided to use the rear brake spindle hole as the hole for the foot peg as it is well beefed up at the back, I drilled and bushed this hole for the 10mm bolt to hold the peg. I then made up a steel backing plate with a slotted hole for the peg to slot into to stop it rotating and for the peg to bolt against. now that the peg is in position I made up an alloy plate to mount the master cylinder, this is of an R1, now the tricky part was getting the lever to work the master cylinder along with the pull switch and somewhere to mount the return spring, all in a very limited space. At this stage i was thinking rear sets were the way to go. but after a few sketches and much cutting of cardboard I settled with what you can see in the photos, please let me know what you think. On the gear stick side the first job was to drill a hole for the foot peg in the same place as the R/H hanger I then cut the lug of the front of the hanger that was used for the original gear stick and welded it into the back of the hanger to beef up the foot peg hole, drilled and bushed this for the 10mm foot peg bolt. next was to counter bore the outside of the hanger similar to the R/H side to give a flat surface for the backing plate to sit against. On both the gear stick and the brake lever I used the cap head of the foot peg bolt to give a guide to the back of the stick / lever to try and reduce any twisting type force and had thought of getting some nylon bushes made up to fit over the cap head but thought that was overkill. I have reservations that the torque arm mounting that's incorporated into the bottom of the alloy plate for the rear brake master cylinder is sitting quite low and could foul the R/H exhaust, if this is the case I can cut it off and will have to shorten the torque arm and mount it to the under side of the swing arm. I'm hoping the gear stick and brake lever wont foul the exhausts where they go under the hangers, the original exhausts do look very close to the hangers but as I've decided to go for the 370 Fahron conversion and will be fitting pipes more suited, just haven't decided on which ones yet. Still a bit of tidying up to do round the linkage for the brake and still deciding on what finish to go for on the hangers, really like the polished look but not as keen on the cleaning Also added the guaranteed extra horsepower decal to the front of the belly fairing
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Post by unrealedd on Feb 9, 2016 7:28:27 GMT 1
Coming along nicely now, really taking shape and I think the hangers do the job well as retaining the original character of the RD.
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Post by rigga on Feb 9, 2016 16:46:30 GMT 1
Hangers clocks and headlight,all defining features of the LC and should be kept if possible.
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 10, 2016 0:36:09 GMT 1
Hi Looking really nice. That swingarm looks soo good in the Lc. The other issue you might encounter is the downward swing of the kick start lever hitting your brake lever. I only say that as I spaced my footrests out for the Metmachex arm, and even with a Legend kickstart fitted, it can clip the brake lever on full depression, and mine is spaced out by approx. 11mm. Thought I might mention it so you can head of a problem before you fit the engine. Dusty
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Post by rostrumorhospital on Feb 10, 2016 8:27:13 GMT 1
Thanks for the info Dusty, I hadn't even considered the kickstart issue, is the Legend kickstart you've mentioned the alloy one. On first look at it I cant see any easy fix, although off setting the lever in towards the engine might help guess I'm just gonna have to wait till I get the engine in to check the space I've got to work with.
Thanks
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 10, 2016 9:24:45 GMT 1
Hi Yea, the Legend kickstart is the shorter than standard alloy one. As soon as you said how much you spaced your footrest plates out by I thought this may be a problem. As with mine, spacing out was necessary for the Metmachex arm and 11mm was the maximum I wanted to go. It's all fitted on mine now but I think the brake lever will be coming off in the future for modifying as the kickstart does clip it at full depression. I will go and take some pics for you Dusty
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Post by dusty350 on Feb 10, 2016 9:47:05 GMT 1
Here you go; Hope that helps Dusty
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Post by rostrumorhospital on Feb 10, 2016 11:06:40 GMT 1
Thanks Dusty, much appreciated, see exactly what you mean
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Post by knackerdan66 on Feb 11, 2016 17:41:00 GMT 1
Top build that is
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Post by dippydave on Feb 12, 2016 11:21:31 GMT 1
Wow !! Some time and efforts gone into that. Very nice "impressed" Dave
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Post by gazsellars on Feb 12, 2016 19:50:10 GMT 1
Lovely job that! Really impressed with the swingarm and the paint. Gonna be a stunner
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Post by rostrumorhospital on Feb 12, 2016 23:42:13 GMT 1
Thanks for the positive comments and advice has been invaluable when undertaking all the unexpected situations when building a non standard bike.
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2taol
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 378
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Post by 2taol on Feb 16, 2016 17:39:17 GMT 1
yea really like this build, looks sharp, well thought out and the swinger looks right at home!
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Post by rostrumorhospital on Mar 25, 2016 23:41:23 GMT 1
Got the footrest hangers, pegs and levers cleaned up and painted, went for the same finish as dusty on the brembo master cyclinder, not sure if this is the standard finish with the main body black, the paint cleaned of the brembo lettering and the red in fill, appologies for copying if its not the factory finsh, in my opinion it should be! lol, thanks for the idea, I thought it looked the business on your bike. Just got to connect up the brake line / bleed it and job done, I have removed the rear wheel to allow excess to drill and tap a hole in the swing arm for the brake line guide bracket. Also rewired the stator, still to fit the last 4 spade connectors into the multi plug once i fit it through the hole in the casing and a length of heat shrink to heat up once in position. Here's a before and after photo. Also got a mate to turn 10mm off the gsxr 400 rear sprocket carrier, not 100% sure this will perfictly line up with the front sprocket, but with such little room to work with between the edge of the 150 tyre and the inside of the frame this puts the chain right in the middle of the gap, i have errored on the side of not enough material removed, hopefully this should be in the ball pack and can remove an extra few mm if as required. here's a before and after
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Post by dusty350 on Mar 26, 2016 8:05:24 GMT 1
Hi All looking good matey Pegs look great on the standard back plates. The Brembo rear master on mine is a factory finish I believe - think it's a new item (came in a box of spares with my 385cc). I always think time spent on small parts like that really make a big difference to the finished bike. Keep up the good work - it's gonna look awesome Dusty
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