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Post by urbantangleweed on Jan 18, 2024 23:09:24 GMT 1
I'm sure one if you guys will know this, but is the thread on a YPVS Temp Sender 1/8th 27 NPT?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 18, 2024 23:49:16 GMT 1
Usual argument will follow 🤣
As far as I can remember early is a straight thread and late is npt
Whether it's m10 x 1.00 or 27tpi I'll leave the others to comment
Steve 🤐
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Post by JonW on Jan 19, 2024 4:17:05 GMT 1
Usual argument will follow 🤣 As far as I can remember early is a straight thread and late is npt Whether it's m10 x 1.00 or 27tpi I'll leave the others to comment Steve 🤐 A ham fisted 17 year old can make either fit... and did. The old adage : "No need to worry about a taper if you use either brute force or tape..."
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Post by urbantangleweed on Jan 19, 2024 8:48:36 GMT 1
I've Y-1, Y-2 and Y-3 heads, the internal threads all appear to be parallel but trying them with a thread gauge, both 1.0 and 0.9 pitch seem to fit.
M10 x 1.0 makes sense to me. I'll try and pick up some brake pipe fittings as they're available in M10 x 1.0 and see if they screw in......
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Post by mannanan on Jan 19, 2024 9:19:48 GMT 1
There was a very good thread on here about 6 months back from crogthomas. Explains pretty much everything about temperature gauges type.
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 19, 2024 9:45:11 GMT 1
Regardless of how they measure a Y3 head had the tapered sensor
The straight sensor won't go in
Steve
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Post by lcmarky on Jan 19, 2024 10:10:10 GMT 1
This brings back memories!
I'll have to check my own thread (excuse the pun!)..
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Post by lcmarky on Jan 19, 2024 10:16:22 GMT 1
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Post by urbantangleweed on Jan 19, 2024 11:11:32 GMT 1
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 19, 2024 11:30:21 GMT 1
If you Google it PT is pipe thead which is tapered
Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 19, 2024 11:31:10 GMT 1
I'm sure the Koso one I have is m10 x 1
150 will be water, 250 is oil
Steve
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Post by urbantangleweed on Jan 19, 2024 12:54:06 GMT 1
If you Google it PT is pipe thead which is tapered Steve Makes sense that, cheers Steve.
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Post by urbantangleweed on Jan 19, 2024 12:55:57 GMT 1
I'm sure the Koso one I have is m10 x 1 150 will be water, 250 is oil Steve Makes sense too. The oil ones seem to be anodised red.
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Post by urbantangleweed on Jan 19, 2024 18:14:31 GMT 1
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Post by crogthomas on Jan 24, 2024 13:37:01 GMT 1
Good work there. For what it's worth, every Y1 head I've seen has been M10 and every Y3 has been 1/8NPT. The Y2's have been inconsistent. I have a Y2 head that has a M10 thread. Of course it's 40 years old and has been through the hands of many bodgers before the current one (me), so who knows what it was originally. The Y number appears to be an indicator of the compression ratio, but I suppose it's possible that since it is a cast-in number the heads could have been all machined differently depending on their end use and the number doesn't actually mean much at all. What we do know is that the thread should match the model the head came from. LC2/F/N bikes had a M10 sensor with a blade terminal. The F2/N2/R then changed to a 1/8NPT taper sensor with a bullet connector. Since the wiring loom connectors are different, they can't be confused (not accidentally anyway).
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 24, 2024 21:11:25 GMT 1
I'll agree Y2 heads are a bit funny
You would expect Y1 to be on early bikes and Y2 on later but I've had very early 1983 bikes (within first 1000) that had no signs of being opened up that had a Y2 head yet I've had mid 83 bikes on Y1
Both had straight threads with a spade sensor
I had it in my head that the Y3 was more 2ua/4ce which would make the Y2 the same across 31k and 1ua but with a thread change
Why we didn't get the 1ua head I don't know
Steve
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Post by urbantangleweed on Jan 24, 2024 21:18:17 GMT 1
Could Y1, 2 and 3 simply be a casting mark referencing the mould cavity each was cast in? The temp sensor thread could be cut either as M10x1 or 1/8 NPT at the threading station on them all?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 24, 2024 21:38:47 GMT 1
I think that is a fair assumption
Just Y3 was later and 1ua was the scarlet pimpernel 😂
Steve
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Post by urbantangleweed on Jan 24, 2024 22:12:21 GMT 1
That darn elusive pimpernel! 😊
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Post by urbantangleweed on Jan 26, 2024 18:04:12 GMT 1
Well, whatever thread was in the Y-2 head, it's M10x1 now! 🙂 .....NPT sender still fits too and tightens as it tightens as it should.
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Post by crogthomas on Jan 29, 2024 12:05:00 GMT 1
If you want to preserve the M10 thread I'd avoid putting the NPT sensor in there. 27 TPI is about 0.94mm pitch, so whilst very close to 1mm, is enough for the relatively hard brass sensor to distort the thread in the soft aluminium.
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Post by urbantangleweed on Jan 29, 2024 14:36:18 GMT 1
If you want to preserve the M10 thread I'd avoid putting the NPT sensor in there. 27 TPI is about 0.94mm pitch, so whilst very close to 1mm, is enough for the relatively hard brass sensor to distort the thread in the soft aluminium. Useful advice, thank you.
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