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Post by 4l04ever on Jan 2, 2023 3:13:01 GMT 1
I have been working with Alan Kelly on a replacement fusebox project.
After a few hours of messaging, we came up with a few designs for a PCB which will go in a new 3D printed base but will still retain the original lid.
It will come wired with tails ready to attach to your loom. There is a 5th fuse which can be used for extra items like Ignitec, or just to hold a spare fuse.
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Post by 4l04ever on Jan 2, 2023 3:17:32 GMT 1
Pic  |
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Post by 4l04ever on Jan 2, 2023 3:19:56 GMT 1
The connectors won't be there. They were just used to force the software to make a connection pad big enough for the wiring to go through.
The fuse holders are trick combination ones which will take a standard blade, a mini blade, or a super low profile mini blade fuse.
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Post by reedpete on Jan 2, 2023 6:32:07 GMT 1
Was thinking of doing something very similar but using soldered fuse holder end clips to accept standard LC fuses, loom would solder directly to the board. Needs 2oz copper and PTH. Have the fuse holders already but knocking up a pcb was on the ‘to do’ list…
It’s a good thought if yours to put a 5th, But how about just uses a spare hole for an inline fuse for modern auxiliary devices.
Think the balance between function and form is important, blades probably work best but just look like a german car !
don’t pay too much to have pcbs made….😉
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Post by JonW on Jan 2, 2023 8:37:09 GMT 1
Superb!
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 2, 2023 9:28:15 GMT 1
Thats a great idea  Good work fellas |
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Post by jon on Jan 2, 2023 9:57:40 GMT 1
I’d asked Alan a while ago if he could print a fuse box to accept blade fuses. This is an area a lot of LCs are in need of repair. The original clips have become very weak over the years of use.
I’m no expert, but will a PCB be able to carry enough current for the main fuse?
Jon
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Post by 4l04ever on Jan 2, 2023 10:40:11 GMT 1
All the tracks on the PCB are double sided so can carry double the normal current. All the connections are plated through hole. I will also be adding a solid wire bridge on the back of each connection from the wire to the fuse connection so it will be able to carry even more current.
The 5th fuse holder can be left out, or a 2nd version could be made which only has 4 glass fuses on, but I have had several glass fuses fail in the end caps where it cannot be seen, so prefer to use blade type fuses.
I have got to check what thickness wire I need, as I just made the holes for wiring 2.5mm, but probably only need 1.5ish??
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Post by veg on Jan 2, 2023 10:58:27 GMT 1
Great idea Rob and Al. Blade fuses are a great idea as well esp if it’s in a std looking body.
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Post by beardy on Jan 2, 2023 11:24:27 GMT 1
Blades- Much more readily available too 👍🏻
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Post by 4l04ever on Jan 2, 2023 11:39:13 GMT 1
Updated pic showing power planes added to increase power handling.  |
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Post by jon on Jan 2, 2023 11:45:23 GMT 1
+2 on blade fuses, They are hidden away behind 2 bits of plastic so it hardly matters they are not original. Plus as said some glass fuses short circuit where the fuse wire doesn’t contact the metal end caps very well. 4l04ever Could you also do an option without the wires so you could directly join the original loom wires straight to the PCB. Jon |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Jan 2, 2023 12:21:08 GMT 1
Brilliant idea 👍 Ypvs version?  One without the loom to solder straight in too Steve |
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Post by mangocrazy on Jan 2, 2023 12:24:20 GMT 1
Excellent stuff. I'm sure there will be a ready market for these - I'm in!
And +3 on blade fuses. Why would you use anything else?
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Post by 4l04ever on Jan 2, 2023 13:16:17 GMT 1
I think this version is pretty much there.  |
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Post by JonW on Jan 2, 2023 13:30:29 GMT 1
I’d asked Alan a while ago if he could print a fuse box to accept blade fuses. This is an area a lot of LCs are in need of repair. The original clips have become very weak over the years of use.I’m no expert, but will a PCB be able to carry enough current for the main fuse? Jon Jon, you can still get replacement OEM clips from yamaha as nos parts from the likes of CMS. Ive put the part no up on here before. |
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Post by JonW on Jan 2, 2023 13:33:56 GMT 1
Rob, is there any actual need to wire this? Can people not cut their old fuse box out and solder their own wires to this circuit board that has the fuse parts already soldered in?
I appreciate that might not be for everyone, but it could be simpler and cheaper to produce?
Also... for those who do cut and integrate something like this into an old loom, do the joints at different lengths or you'll end up with a fat lump right where you least wanted it.
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Post by jon on Jan 2, 2023 13:42:10 GMT 1
I’d asked Alan a while ago if he could print a fuse box to accept blade fuses. This is an area a lot of LCs are in need of repair. The original clips have become very weak over the years of use.I’m no expert, but will a PCB be able to carry enough current for the main fuse? Jon Jon, you can still get replacement OEM clips from yamaha as nos parts from the likes of CMS. Ive put the part no up on here before. I’m well aware of that: rdlccrazy.proboards.com/post/474466Just works out expensive by the time you add post and you need two lots. I’d much prefer a more modern alternative. Jon |
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Post by JonW on Jan 2, 2023 13:52:28 GMT 1
I think we all would Jon, I'm a huge fan of what Rob is doing here as per my first post and my input. This will be a godsend for many of us with access only to old well used looms.
I just think for those whove got a simple broken clip that its worth noting that there is a fix out there to keep your bike original if you wanted is all. All is not lost on your original loom or fusebox etc.
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Jan 2, 2023 14:06:02 GMT 1
Good luck with this Rob and Alan, looks promising.
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Post by 4l04ever on Jan 2, 2023 14:22:55 GMT 1
I think most people's wiring may be a little short to wire this in directly, so may need at least short extensions wired in. I will be able to supply them unwired as well as with tails pre-wired.
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Post by 4l04ever on Jan 2, 2023 15:18:16 GMT 1
Sample PCB order in the pipeline... ETA 14 days from China! :-)
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Post by alankelly on Jan 2, 2023 19:00:23 GMT 1
Hi all Thanks for the kind comments Rob is PCB expert here and hats off to him and the assemble (just to wet some appetites) should look like this  |
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Post by 4l04ever on Jan 2, 2023 19:22:49 GMT 1
Teamwork makes the dream work! :-)
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Post by 4l04ever on Jan 2, 2023 19:24:27 GMT 1
Test PCBs are ordered in black.... once you go black.... :-)
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Post by wallcraft on Jan 2, 2023 21:03:33 GMT 1
Test PCBs are ordered in black.... once you go black.... :-) Saucy, nice tight fit then 😜 Superb solution gents, look forward to theses. Mark. |
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Post by donkeychomp on Jan 2, 2023 22:35:45 GMT 1
What a fantastic idea! Great to see you two working on this together. I'll certainly have one.
Alex
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Post by rigga on Jan 2, 2023 22:56:45 GMT 1
Yet again, we are lucky to have ideas and skills to help keep these old nails going.
Long may that continue.
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Post by 4l04ever on Jan 3, 2023 17:22:21 GMT 1
Does anyone know the wire sizes for the main loom wiring? Is it 1mm squared or 1.5mm squared? Also, is the red main feed from the battery 1.5 or 2mm squared?
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Post by muttsnuts on Jan 3, 2023 18:11:34 GMT 1
main wiring is 1.5mm and the main battery wire is 2mm, generally I repair most with 1mm and its all fine, 1.5mm is pretty heavy TBH, the only thing that draws that amount of amps is the headlight and the horn, everything else is well inside of what a 1mm cable can handle
HTH
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