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Post by shaunyb63 on Feb 19, 2018 22:54:14 GMT 1
I’m i right in thinking that originally there was 1 rubber ring between each friction plate ,or was it just 1 ring before the plate stack?
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Post by shaunyb63 on Feb 18, 2018 14:32:27 GMT 1
Good point Jon,no I will strip it all down when I get time this week to see if my basket has grooved at all,I can get a gear without it stalling ,but only just, it goes in with a right old clonk ,and its just possible to push it without the rear wheel locking, I’ve got a biting point on mine but its at the very end of level travel ,so I think while I’ve got it apart I will replace the plates anyway.
I will let you know how I get on later in week.
Could be with yours earthman that the plates are Sticking, maybe wrong oil?
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Post by shaunyb63 on Feb 17, 2018 22:25:15 GMT 1
Cheers earthman,
I’ve seen that thread and my actuator is working just fine,you should be able to tell if it’s adjusted correctly because when you pull the clutch lever fully in ,you will see that the outer friction plate pulls to the very end of the clutch basket,ie:disengaging the drive fully,assuming everything else is adjusted correctly of course, “obviously you will need the clutch cover removed to check this.”Because my plates are worn ,if I adjust the cable at the bar to have a 5mm free play,then when I pull the lever in fully the outer clutch plate falls short of the end of the basket,then I have absolutely no clutch at all,but when I adjust the cable to have no free play at the bar ,the outer friction pulls to the end of the basket again ,giving just enough to select a gear, so it’s a new clutch for me
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Post by shaunyb63 on Feb 17, 2018 21:52:34 GMT 1
Thanks, i will pull it apart this week and check all is ok.
like I said I don’t think there is much left on the plates ,will measure to check how much is left on them ,but if they need replacing is it worth spending the extra on genuine Yamaha steels and frictions, or are the pattern items such as EBC good to use?might be worth changing the springs as well while it’s apart,that way everything is done and hopefully good to go.
will check the ball bearing as well mate ,and for the price of a new one it’s worth replacing. will check old threads regarding which oil to use,or I’ll ring Norbo, he should know.
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Post by shaunyb63 on Feb 17, 2018 20:10:45 GMT 1
Common topic I know but my 250lc has the same problem as many others and that is clutch drag. Ive got the clutch cover off and what I’ve noticed is that when I pull the clutch lever in ,only the 2 outer plates actually separate,the other five stay together,if I then manually separate the others they do feel sticky.Question;is this normal or should they all separate freely even when engine is not running The clutch is all adjusted correctly but there isn’t much adjustment left on the handlebar ,so I presume the plates might be on their way out,it’s got a brand new genuine Yamaha clutch cable fitted and from what I can tell there doesn’t seem to be any groves worn into the clutch basket from where the friction plates have been. Just wondered if when running these plates will separate? Any thoughts?
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Post by shaunyb63 on Feb 11, 2018 20:35:59 GMT 1
Cheers mate, much appreciated.
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Post by shaunyb63 on Feb 11, 2018 19:57:28 GMT 1
Quick question,is it possible to remove the gear shift shaft from a 250lc without taking the clutch basket off? It looks a bit tight in there
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Post by shaunyb63 on Jan 27, 2018 23:58:27 GMT 1
I have removed the clutch cover and every thing is fine, Cheched the alloy tube as Rigga suggested and all ok, I’ve flushed the system out and found nothing ,so can only assume everything is ok.As reedpete quite clearly states I do need to get to know this motorcycle and understand how it works which is what I am doing,all I’m asking for is Sound advice as I do it.cheers all.
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Post by shaunyb63 on Jan 27, 2018 1:58:17 GMT 1
Thanks to all for the welcome, just to update,tried the magnet and it’s definitely alloy so can rule out the piston ring theory and all ok with water pump so hopefully nothing to worry about, HOPEFULLY!!
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Post by shaunyb63 on Jan 25, 2018 22:51:38 GMT 1
Many thanks for the reply’s lads, I think I will check the water pump to see if all ok,I will try a magnet as suggested to see if it’s a piece of alloy,as you say it may have an alloy impeller in Whitch a piece may have broken off.I will try to post a photo of the offending item if I can, I think it may be a good idea to flush the system out while I’m at it, that’s a job for the weekend I think.
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Post by shaunyb63 on Jan 25, 2018 17:52:37 GMT 1
hi, first post so hear goes, just drained the coolant from my 250lc which looked fine ,but on closer inspection I found a tiny piece of metal in the coolant, it’s only small and almost looks like a piece of piston ring, though it might not be,could this be possible?The engine sounds ok when running but having only just acquired the bike i haven’t had it on the road yet so don’t know how the engine performs under load but at tick over and when revving from standstill it sounds just fine.The engine has had a rebore at some time with only about 50 miles on the clock since so just wondered if it was a stray piece from that.Think it might be best to whip the top end off just to make sure.Any ideas?
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