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Post by tippy on Apr 17, 2024 10:31:09 GMT 1
Hi, coming to the end of a hybrid build and I need to wire some clocks in, never done it before and frankly I am effing useless! Before I make a right feck up of the job is there anyone in Yorkshire who has experience or who fancies taking a look with me?
TIA.
Tip
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Post by shaunthe2nd on Apr 17, 2024 13:00:28 GMT 1
Muttsnuts supplies and fits these I think.
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Post by JonW on Apr 17, 2024 14:38:02 GMT 1
honestly its not that hard. Look at the wiring diagram for the bike and the clocks and get a notepad handy and start jotting down the wire colours and what should connect to what as you trace the diagrams.
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Post by urbantangleweed on Apr 17, 2024 19:44:47 GMT 1
KOSO are pretty straightforward to wire up and come with decent instructions. Don't be tempted by the cheap Chinese type unless you're either an experienced auto-electricion or in league with the devil.......
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Post by tippy on Apr 17, 2024 20:47:52 GMT 1
Muttsnuts supplies and fits these I think. I know he does, and he is brilliant but by god he is busy! |
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Post by tippy on Apr 17, 2024 20:48:41 GMT 1
KOSO are pretty straightforward to wire up and come with decent instructions. Don't be tempted by the cheap Chinese type unless you're either an experienced auto-electricion or in league with the devil....... Already bought them. the issue is me, not them! |
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Post by tippy on Apr 17, 2024 20:50:37 GMT 1
honestly its not that hard. Look at the wiring diagram for the bike and the clocks and get a notepad handy and start jotting down the wire colours and what should connect to what as you trace the diagrams. It might come to that, might just be a bit of pre-task fear on my behalf! I am however crap at a lot of things! |
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Post by urbantangleweed on Apr 17, 2024 21:44:22 GMT 1
KOSO are pretty straightforward to wire up and come with decent instructions. Don't be tempted by the cheap Chinese type unless you're either an experienced auto-electricion or in league with the devil....... Already bought them. the issue is me, not them! Which ones did you get? |
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Post by tippy on Apr 17, 2024 21:50:19 GMT 1
RX2-N I think without checking on them
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Post by freddie19 on Apr 18, 2024 0:04:23 GMT 1
I like the look of that and much more suited to the RD with the 10K rev range! 👍  |
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Post by urbantangleweed on Apr 18, 2024 6:35:12 GMT 1
Nice unit that and having seperate warning lights for the indicators makes it easier to wire up than ones with only one, with the single light clocks, you usually need to put diodes in the line to prevent the signal feeding back. If you do find you need to include diodes, 1N4001's are cheap and perfectly up to the job.
Everything you need is there, you can also use the oil warning light for the low 2 stroke one, the only thing that you needen't bother with is the engine management light and fuel gauge but for the latter.
Take the pick-up for the rev counter from the coil rather than the wrap around an HT lead method as it's far more reliable, but if you have a Zeel fitted, that will feed it directly and be even better.
Have a study of the wiring diagram and take one connection at a time, they're really quite simple once you get your head round it. I find it easiest to make a seperate diagram detailing the colour of wire from the bike loom to the corresponding colour on the KOSO loom.
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Post by 84rzrider on Apr 18, 2024 14:19:14 GMT 1
On my 84 YVPS when we installed the Koso RX2GP we cut the plugs off of a set of buggered up clocks to avoid altering the main factory harness and it made life easier. We tried to hook up the 2 stroke oil light to the warning light as stated but we could never get it to come on, stay on for a couple seconds and then go off like factory. It was either on or off. If memory serves someone on here who is way sharper than me said the clocks wiring has a resistor in the harness that it needs to work correctly. Plus one on using the coil to pick up power for the tach. I have a Zeeltronic as well but we couldn't get the tach to read using the tach output so we used the coil and it works perfectly. Koso's temp sensor for the water temperature is straightforward and easy. Calibrating the speedometer is simple as well use two pieces of tape on the floor and plug the numbers into the unit with the formula in the instructions. You will love the Koso.
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Post by jessy03 on Apr 18, 2024 18:22:14 GMT 1
I fitted some a few years back, quite straightforward just study the wiring diagram first. The speedo and temperature sensor just plug in, it’s only power, indicators, neutral light  |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 18, 2024 20:17:19 GMT 1
It should be possible to get the oil light to work
Maybe not an f2 sensor as it does the light up then fade out as a test
The problem with the LC/LC2 oil light may be that its a constant 12v that the earth is switched via the oil switch or tested through the neutral switch
You can use a small relay to isolate the original signal and change it to a "normal" switched 12v signal
Steve
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Post by JonW on Apr 19, 2024 0:05:56 GMT 1
It should be possible to get the oil light to work Maybe not an f2 sensor as it does the light up then fade out as a test The problem with the LC/LC2 oil light may be that its a constant 12v that the earth is switched via the oil switch or tested through the neutral switch You can use a small relay to isolate the original signal and change it to a "normal" switched 12v signal Steve Good thoughts. Would be nice to see someone build that and have it working. |
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Post by urbantangleweed on Apr 19, 2024 6:53:20 GMT 1
It should be possible to get the oil light to work Maybe not an f2 sensor as it does the light up then fade out as a test The problem with the LC/LC2 oil light may be that its a constant 12v that the earth is switched via the oil switch or tested through the neutral switch You can use a small relay to isolate the original signal and change it to a "normal" switched 12v signal Steve Good thoughts. Would be nice to see someone build that and have it working. On the MT's with KOSO clocks, as the oil warning light is LED rather than a regular bulb, the charge in the capacitor in the loom doesn't get depleted as the current draw of an LED is tiny compared to a bulb, so the capacitor needs to be deleted or bypassed. The oil level sensor unit fitted switches the earth so it ends up being just a light on/light off situation without the test facility normally built in. It could of course be wired into the neutral light circuit to give you that check though, the light would illuminate every time you selected neutral as it was on many 2 stroke Kawasakis from the 80's. This way would provide a check that the light was working, but I believe this was mainly done on the YPVS as a bulb check rather than a sensor check, not really necessary on an LED and anyway, at ignition on, all the KOSO lights illuminate which effectively gives that check. |
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Post by crogthomas on Apr 19, 2024 8:21:36 GMT 1
the charge in the capacitor in the loom doesn't get depleted as the current draw of an LED is tiny compared to a bulb, so the capacitor needs to be deleted or bypassed. I'm about to delve into LED dash lights, so this interests me. Where is this capacitor? I've never noticed one before. |
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Post by urbantangleweed on Apr 19, 2024 8:25:29 GMT 1
the charge in the capacitor in the loom doesn't get depleted as the current draw of an LED is tiny compared to a bulb, so the capacitor needs to be deleted or bypassed. I'm about to delve into LED dash lights, so this interests me. Where is this capacitor? I've never noticed one before. Always in the R/H loom run about a third of the way down the tank on the ones I've done. |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 19, 2024 8:25:51 GMT 1
It is in the oil sensor
Steve
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Post by lcmarky on Apr 19, 2024 9:39:22 GMT 1
I like the look of that and much more suited to the RD with the 10K rev range! 👍 This is what I have used on my hybrid. |
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Post by urbantangleweed on Apr 19, 2024 9:39:26 GMT 1
It is in the oil sensor Steve Both 2 and 3 wire ones Steve? |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 19, 2024 11:02:18 GMT 1
It is in the oil sensor Steve Both 2 and 3 wire ones Steve? Only the F2 has the capacitor which I think is 2 wire LC and Lc2 ypvs are like you said on with the neutral light as a test The F1 on does the light then fade out Steve |
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Post by tippy on Apr 29, 2024 13:34:27 GMT 1
It is in the oil sensor Steve Steve, anyway of getting round this, we have a permanent oil light on my F2? Tip |
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 29, 2024 13:43:23 GMT 1
It is in the oil sensor Steve Steve, anyway of getting round this, we have a permanent oil light on my F2? Tip What set up do you have Standard or non Steve |
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Post by tippy on Apr 29, 2024 15:05:01 GMT 1
Koso clocks, got round it by robbing a level sensor off an Aprilia and swapping it over!
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 29, 2024 15:35:07 GMT 1
Koso clocks, got round it by robbing a level sensor off an Aprilia and swapping it over! Could probably be sorted with a relay or some wiring alterations and a 3 wire sender Steve |
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Post by tippy on Apr 29, 2024 17:09:16 GMT 1
Kind of sorted that now! However the bike is ticking over nicely at @1250rpm but showing @3000rpm on the clocks! Is this an adjustment problem?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 29, 2024 18:15:52 GMT 1
Is there not a setting for how many pulses per rev
It should be set at 2 as there is only one pick up but 2 magnets on the flywheel (wasted spark)
Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Apr 29, 2024 18:16:50 GMT 1
Or if revolutions per pulse 0.5
Steve
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Post by tippy on Apr 29, 2024 20:27:14 GMT 1
Studying the, puzzling for me, instructions there probably is but I am towing a bit! Anyone any experience of the Koso RX1 menus?
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