cnkxu1
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 392
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Post by cnkxu1 on Aug 25, 2020 12:50:19 GMT 1
Is there somewhere on the forum that collects the custom tools people have used or developed? I tried searching but could not narrow it down to less than 141 pages that mentioned special, custom, tool etc. I have seen Dusty's two by four block for mounting a transmission case after I made my own one from scrap. I get by with some special bits for stubborn philips head bolts by hammering and using a bit of leverage, works better than a brand new screw driver or my impact driver. Was more a case of what can I do with what I have at home with all my tools stuck down at the factory during COVID and me not being able to travel. I have my Hare and Forbes (Australian company with some great automotive equipment at decent prices and free next day delivery during COVID) bike stand that also handles motors. 680kg capacity so it will lift my Harley I don't have my press handy, so I have been driving out seals and bearings with suitably sized sockets, very gently. Years ago I wore out an electric drill by pressing for too long laterally with a wire wheel to remove rust and paint etc. before I bought a bench grinder and fitted a wire wheel and another one for polishing but they are at the factory now. What else have people come up with?
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on Aug 25, 2020 13:22:08 GMT 1
Buy some JIS drivers (Japanese Industrial Standard) or bits
I bought the bits as I can then fit them in an impact driver
Philips and pozi drive are different. It's a revelation when you try them
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Post by earthman on Aug 25, 2020 13:43:27 GMT 1
Sounds like a good idea to start such a thread, what special tools have you made specifically for an LC?
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Post by JonW on Aug 25, 2020 14:20:05 GMT 1
Defo need JIS drivers, 'our' screws are not Philips.
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Post by jon on Aug 26, 2020 17:36:47 GMT 1
cnkxu1If we are just talking mainly RD custom tools, then here are a few of mine: I’ve got loads more for other vehicles. Your challenge is to guess what they are used for. BBS please visit this thread (if you haven’t already) rdlccrazy.proboards.com/post/481842/threadJon
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Post by jon on Aug 26, 2020 17:47:47 GMT 1
Just noticed a few scooter custom tools in the box, so your excused from not knowing what they are for.
Jon
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busby
Weekend rider
RD 350 4l0
Posts: 87
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Post by busby on Aug 26, 2020 19:19:36 GMT 1
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Post by veg on Aug 27, 2020 12:46:13 GMT 1
Jon is that a fork top fitting tool? Like it. Could do with one for 31k forks absolute b*****ds to fit fork caps too. Next to it a fork damper locking tool 👍.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Aug 27, 2020 14:18:47 GMT 1
In the automotive world they are called SST’s
Special Service Tools
And they are mostly unobtainable
Yes you need JIS screwdrivers, you will strip a lot less heads of screws with them
The difference is at the centre of the cross, JIS are a right angle, Phillips are more rounded and hence cam out if the screw is particularly stubborn, ruining the head as it does so
The JIS stay locked in, they will undo a normal Phillips head screw though
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Post by jon on Aug 27, 2020 18:18:34 GMT 1
Jon is that a fork top fitting tool? Like it. Could do with one for 31k forks absolute b*****ds to fit fork caps too. Next to it a fork damper locking tool 👍. Hi Veg, Yes. Top right is the clamp. You either use the damper holding rod with it or the fork top ferrule. Make building and stripping forks an absolute doddle. Each task takes a couple of minutes tops. Jon
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Post by jon on Aug 27, 2020 18:19:58 GMT 1
Any ideas on the others?
Jon
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Post by steven on Aug 27, 2020 19:20:41 GMT 1
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Post by JonW on Aug 28, 2020 2:26:51 GMT 1
I remember you making the fork tool Jon, loved it when i saw it and developed my own variation using a spare top triple with a bar clamp and an axle that means you can do it on the bike and not ruin anything etc ive mentioned it before.
As for the fork lower leg bolt removal, Ive found that's easy enough without a tool, just leave the spring in the leg and use a rattle gun etc.
The rest of your medieval torture devices I dont recognise, tho im sure some were used by the Spanish Inquisition!
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cnkxu1
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 392
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Post by cnkxu1 on Sept 8, 2020 8:26:05 GMT 1
I guess everyone has a favourite screwdriver or some other tool. I have had a couple of Stahlwille flat and Phillips screwdrivers for 40 or so years now. Just feel so great in the hand. Also some Stahlwille spanners, thin and strong and no sign of wear after all this time. I absolutely love my Vessel Impacta P2 and P3 JIS screwdrivers. They move original unmolested screws easily. Give them a whack with the persuader and they do a little impact turn to crack a tight one. But I still rely on one particular hex Phillips bit and hammer to reshape a molested head then use the spanner to turn the bit. Nothing beats torque.
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Post by geoffers997 on Sept 10, 2020 10:44:44 GMT 1
Never knew about JIS drivers - top tip thanks, I’ll be buying some of those to add to the hoard.
I’ve had a 12 inch Black and Decker (yes, really) cross headed screwdriver for 30 plus years. Nicked it off my old man - it’s brilliant as it’s got an oblong shaped handle so you can put a big adjustable spanner on it - that’s got more tight screws out than I care to remember
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cnkxu1
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 392
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Post by cnkxu1 on Sept 11, 2020 11:18:55 GMT 1
Trying to free up some brake calipers this week that had been sitting for ten years. I must remember to take brakes apart if they are not going to be used for any great length of time, but who plans like that anyway? It was only going to be a matter of months before I restored some of the bikes I had, but looking at some receipts from 2010 I realise it was much longer than it should have been. Everything was off the bike and just impossible to get any leverage on anything. Air pressure was not up to moving some of the frozen pistons. I ended up mounting a rear master on an RZ and connecting that up to each of the single piston front calipers. Gradually came out. It had been soaking in WD40 and then brake clean for days but not sure if it made much difference as it was the perished seals that were gumming up everything. Mounting the master on the bike meant I could pump with my foot and hold the caliper and bleed it with my hands. A messy job with brake fluid everywhere but that frame will be stripped of paint soon. And no it will not be another ten years.
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cnkxu1
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 392
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Post by cnkxu1 on Sept 11, 2020 11:29:35 GMT 1
Fork stanchion removal. I made up a lever from a length of steel bracket with a short rod bolted to it so that the short end of the lever goes into the hole where the handle bar mounts, the rod sits on top of the fork which is mounted in the top triple clamp. Push down on the lever enough to dig out the clip holding in the fork spring holder. Worked fine on the first one but the second fork spring holder refuses to come out. It was very hard to move and I must have pressed it down too far so it has locked inside the stanchion where it narrows down. Tried hitting it with a long rod from the other end and tried a very long lever on that rod but no luck so far. Left it to soak in WD40 for a while but I suspect the seal has perished combined with rust to stop things moving. Might try some heat on the stanchion.
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Post by JonW on Sept 12, 2020 0:46:56 GMT 1
Cool, I do both those things as well when I do brakes and fork caps.
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cnkxu1
Thrash Merchant
Posts: 392
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Post by cnkxu1 on Sept 12, 2020 14:01:14 GMT 1
This was the culprit. I have a spare top and a new stanchion and only really needed to get it apart for the spring and spindle which are in good order.
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Post by JonW on Sept 13, 2020 9:34:05 GMT 1
Good you got it out. I had to cut through a fork leg a few years back to get a cap out. Only wanted the parts inside, but annoying all the same.
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Post by jon on Sept 13, 2020 10:15:04 GMT 1
Good you got it out. I had to cut through a fork leg a few years back to get a cap out. Only wanted the parts inside, but annoying all the same. Surely it would have been easier to drill and tap the bung to say m12 then use a screw and a slide hammer? Jon
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Post by JonW on Sept 13, 2020 10:22:34 GMT 1
Good you got it out. I had to cut through a fork leg a few years back to get a cap out. Only wanted the parts inside, but annoying all the same. Surely it would have been easier to drill and tap the bung to say m12 then use a screw and a slide hammer? Jon It was a pretty bent fork leg from a job lot I bought. I went with the '30 secs with a rotating steel saw...' option as I was at a mates workshop lol
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Post by jon on Sept 13, 2020 10:37:13 GMT 1
Ah I see. Not worth saving then.
Jon
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Post by JonW on Sept 13, 2020 13:58:50 GMT 1
Ah I see. Not worth saving then. Jon Yeah, that arvo we went through all the sets and loose forks I'd bought, plus some he had for his LC and I stripped them to what was useful for his and my builds, then got in the car and dropped some bits in for plating and some ok-but-rusty legs to the rechromers, then back to the workshop in time to clean up and polish some sets of fork bottoms on his huge wheel polisher before i headed home. What i call 'a good day out'... I was cover in black particles from head to toe after using the polisher lol The best tool in his place i always reckon is the OzzyJuice parts washer. just amazing. Eats loose paint and even light rust in the warm fluid that easily cleans the worst gunked on stuff. Bear in mind he is a fully equipped car and fab shop with lathe/mill/blaster/welders/plasma/powdercoat etc etc. Ive used em all but always now go there to wash parts so Ive retired my own washer.
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Post by earthman on Oct 27, 2020 21:26:32 GMT 1
I did think about making a tool similar to the one in Jon's post, to keep the pressure on the fork spring whilst trying to get the thin wire clip out of a 4LO fork,....until I looked at the shape of my bench vice and 2 legged gear puller.
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Post by elsiefan on Dec 26, 2022 22:58:14 GMT 1
I did think about making a tool similar to the one in Jon's post, to keep the pressure on the fork spring whilst trying to get the thin wire clip out of a 4LO fork,....until I looked at the shape of my bench vice and 2 legged gear puller. I was dismantling my forks today and as I have no spare metal tubes lying about, or any skills or tools to cut and weld such materials, I was inspired by your 2 legged puller idea, though I also don't have a puller either. So I concocted a Heath-Robinson version of my own to depress the fork cap without needing a second person to assist, which I also didn't have. It worked like a charm and took only slightly longer to set up each leg than to remove the spring clip, which you can see on the bench. The extension bar in the vice was just there to hold the screwdriver in place as my vice wasn't quite far enough out to clear the edge of my workbench. IMG20221226124741
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Post by Jethro5 on Aug 19, 2023 0:49:17 GMT 1
Yesterday I decided to replace a fork seal that has been leaking for some time. While apart I thought I’d replace the springs with some YSS springs I purchased at the time I replaced the rear shock. Everything was going well until I tried to compress the new springs which are approximately 525mm long. The old springs came out easily as they were out of spec and only a touch over 490mm. It was getting late, so before I hurt myself I decided to call it a day get cleaned up and search this forum for some inspiration. A quick search confirmed my new springs were the correct length. A link in that thread was to this thread which gave me some ideas about how I might compress the springs. I have a small vice and a 2 leg puller and an after some thought used a variation on this method with success. The information of this forum is so valuable. Thanks to everyone who contributes.
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