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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 18, 2020 15:51:54 GMT 1
Either you guys already know this, I've just got it wrong or I'm a feckin genius that's going to save you money
Rebuilding my first LC motor for a mate
Spent an hour or say cleaning to make sure no glass beads left and cleaning out the threads with a tap
Then went through all the parts checking everything was there
Picked up the shift shaft - big bloody groove in it 🙁 Bugger
Went to check what spares I had and both mine have small grooves
Checked with Fowlers £96 😱
Decided one of mine wasn't bad so went to send a pic to my mate to say I could fit this one if he didn't want to blow the thick end of £100
Noticed something when taking the pic and had an epiphany
Lc original shaft and ypvs original shaft laid together shows the ypvs one is very slightly longer but this doesn't matter as they are both superseded to banshee which is basically a ypvs one
It just means a ypvs shaft in an LC engine just sticks out the case a few mm more
The revelation came when I realised the LC gearbox is quite a bit narrower than a ypvs gearbox
What this means is that if you fit a worn ypvs shaft in an lc motor the worn groove now sits outside the crankcase and is nowhere near the LC seal lip.
Have I just discovered something?
How many of us have thrown out worn ypvs shafts when lc owners are blowing £90 odd quid 😳
Steve
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Post by midlifecrisisrd on May 18, 2020 16:00:47 GMT 1
To back this up here is a pic 3 shafts, bottom one LC, top 2 are ypvs The groove on the ypvs one is worn 12mm nearer the end So if you have a worn lc one, swap it with someone with a worn ypvs one In theory the LC one will be worn in the bush area so again not at the seal Steve  |
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Post by teamrobo on May 18, 2020 16:37:00 GMT 1
Hi. Never read or seen anything highlighting the difference. Well spotted and well done. Andy
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Post by Gitram on May 18, 2020 18:31:41 GMT 1
nice one..
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Post by steeley on May 18, 2020 19:17:33 GMT 1
I like that . Welded a really knackered one up last year and had it machined back, cost me a pint . I fitted one of norbo's bushes in the case so i guess this will out last me and the owner of the bike .
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Post by seang14 on May 18, 2020 19:25:08 GMT 1
There's also Bloke on ebay selling special Machined Bushes for £30? Anyone tried one yet!?!?
Sean G
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Post by copper99 on May 18, 2020 19:28:16 GMT 1
£96 now? Mine was £56 new for the shaft , again from Fowlers, only a year back...I think Yamaha are really maxing out parts sales to prop up there falling new bike sales .
Anyway, nice spot Steve.
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Post by cb250g5 on May 18, 2020 20:39:48 GMT 1
There's also Bloke on ebay selling special Machined Bushes for £30? Anyone tried one yet!?!? Sean G I made my own. Bit of scrap aluminium bar, oil seal, 10 mins on the lathe, leak sorted. |
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Post by roach3 on May 18, 2020 20:54:27 GMT 1
great spot steve nice one
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Post by oldbritguy on May 18, 2020 20:55:50 GMT 1
Good spot Steve I was looking at the two shafts I have for the LC motor build, one originally from the LC and the other from a YPVS, and noticed the wear mark from the seal in different places.  It is obvious that the internals on the YPVS are slightly wider than the LC having the seal sitting in a different position on the shaft. Changing to the YPVS shaft will allow the seal to sit on a good unworn bit and hopefully not leak but will still have the need for the teflon bush conversion or stick in one of the alloy bushes and move the seal out about 8mm. Either way I don't need to buy a new shaft. John |
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Post by shaunthe2nd on May 18, 2020 21:19:23 GMT 1
There's also Bloke on ebay selling special Machined Bushes for £30? Anyone tried one yet!?!? Sean G Yes used these a couple of times with good success. |
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Post by veg on May 18, 2020 21:33:42 GMT 1
Typical jock anything to save a quid, still at least he didn’t try to charge us for the knowledge.
You really expect me to big ya up big boy?
Well done matey boy, no seriously well done, I do love those moments when everything goes to or exceeds the plan.
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Post by Tobyjugs on May 18, 2020 21:51:12 GMT 1
I have re-used all my shafts without any leakages.
Clean the damage area with emery cloth and make sure its only bare steel and spray it with brake cleaner.
Next mix up some two component liquid metal and fill the damaged area in and let it harden properly.
I drilled a hole in a block of wood a little bit bigger that the shaft and held this in my vice. Push the shaft through the wood until its close to the change mechanism.
I have a large drill which i attach to the end of the shaft. Get your merry helper to hold the drill and switch it on, with the selector shaft spinning i just clean up the excess liquid metal with a fine emery cloth. You will be left with a tiny grey ring where the liquid metal has filled up the worn shaft
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Post by JonW on May 19, 2020 0:41:26 GMT 1
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Post by earthman on May 19, 2020 7:34:48 GMT 1
There's also Bloke on ebay selling special Machined Bushes for £30? Anyone tried one yet!?!? Sean G Got the eBay link to that item? I take it that you would still have to machine out the holes in the inner case and cover though?? |
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Post by earthman on May 19, 2020 7:39:17 GMT 1
I have re-used all my shafts without any leakages. Clean the damage area with emery cloth and make sure its only bare steel and spray it with brake cleaner. Next mix up some two component liquid metal and fill the damaged area in and let it harden properly. I drilled a hole in a block of wood a little bit bigger that the shaft and held this in my vice. Push the shaft through the wood until its close to the change mechanism. I have a large drill which i attach to the end of the shaft. Get your merry helper to hold the drill and switch it on, with the selector shaft spinning i just clean up the excess liquid metal with a fine emery cloth. You will be left with a tiny grey ring where the liquid metal has filled up the worn shaft Now that's another idea. |
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Post by dusty350 on May 19, 2020 7:56:45 GMT 1
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Post by headcoats on May 19, 2020 8:26:57 GMT 1
It's all cheaper over there :-(
Postage then became expensive and then the custom charge and the cherry on top feckin Post Office handling fee FFS
Who made that one up !
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Post by zig on May 19, 2020 9:29:20 GMT 1
There's also Bloke on ebay selling special Machined Bushes for £30? Anyone tried one yet!?!? Sean G yes great snug neat and tidy job and fix ZiG |
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Post by JonW on May 19, 2020 9:31:25 GMT 1
It's all cheaper over there :-(
Postage then became expensive and then the custom charge and the cherry on top feckin Post Office handling fee FFS
Who made that one up !
Yes but does $45 become a hundred quid in all that? |
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Post by earthman on May 19, 2020 21:14:34 GMT 1
You make it sound so simple, surely the hole in the engine casing needs to be opened up on a milling machine first though?? |
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Post by oldbritguy on May 19, 2020 21:41:41 GMT 1
Nope,
Dusty is spot on. The stepped part of the bush is virtually the same size as the shaft seal and is a nice neat and tight fit in the engine case.
Some people have used loctite for an additional bit of security and others have just tapped it straight in. Neither have leaked or come loose.
All you then do is fit a new seal on the outer part of the new bush, shorten the nylon spacer that sits on the shaft between the engine case and the outside cover and away you go.
A great bit of kit and a simple solution to an old problem😉
John
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Post by 4l04ever on May 19, 2020 23:19:43 GMT 1
I am sure I posted this info in 2016 but the pic was probably on photobucket so would be gone now??? Here is the diagram so you can tell whether you have a worn LC or YPVS shaft.  |
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Post by earthman on May 20, 2020 22:15:32 GMT 1
Was this recently? Maybe he's not any more or I'm not using the correct terminology in the search box? What exactly do you ask for??
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Post by wangwang on May 20, 2020 22:33:37 GMT 1
Was this recently? Maybe he's not any more or I'm not using the correct terminology in the search box? What exactly do you ask for?? |
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Post by dalmahoy on May 21, 2020 7:26:33 GMT 1
Noticed on my 4LO - the L/H casing where the gear shaft passes through - the casing actually supports the outer gear shaft at this point and I noticed the casing had worn with the hole slightly oval.
This wear would transfer any out of alignment movement onto the next mounting point being where the lever passes through the crankcase behind the oil seal.
I milled the L/H casing and made up a phosphor bronze insert.
Once all back together - the gear change is pretty excellent with no slop at all.
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Post by earthman on May 21, 2020 7:33:07 GMT 1
Was this recently? Maybe he's not any more or I'm not using the correct terminology in the search box? What exactly do you ask for?? Many thanks.  |
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Post by earthman on May 21, 2020 7:35:17 GMT 1
Noticed on my 4LO - the L/H casing where the gear shaft passes through - the casing actually supports the outer gear shaft at this point and I noticed the casing had worn with the hole slightly oval. This wear would transfer any out of alignment movement onto the next mounting point being where the lever passes through the crankcase behind the oil seal. I milled the L/H casing and made up a phosphor bronze insert. Once all back together - the gear change is pretty excellent with no slop at all. Yes, it's a good idea to add support via that outer casing too I feel. |
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Post by oldelsieboy on May 21, 2020 15:58:28 GMT 1
I am sure I posted this info in 2016 but the pic was probably on photobucket so would be gone now??? Here is the diagram so you can tell whether you have a worn LC or YPVS shaft. I remember you telling me a few years ago. OEB |
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Post by marrcel on May 21, 2020 16:28:08 GMT 1
Can i use this bush on a pv aswell?
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