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Oil drip
Dec 18, 2018 10:51:10 GMT 1
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Post by richclarke on Dec 18, 2018 10:51:10 GMT 1
I’m getting a tiny (but frustrating) oil drip from under my1980 RD350LC. I had it before and identified the o-ring on the spigot in the RH crankcase cover that separates the cooling circuit from the gearbox oil. I’ve changed that... and the gearchange shaft and oil seal but still the drip persists. Any ideas? Rich
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Oil drip
Dec 18, 2018 11:06:36 GMT 1
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Post by copper99 on Dec 18, 2018 11:06:36 GMT 1
Is it 2 stroke oil ....or gearbox oil? If its 2T oil it can be down to the check valves failing in the oil pump..
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Post by stusco on Dec 19, 2018 8:35:28 GMT 1
It has been mentioned before sometimes it’s a plug in the crankcase it just needs tapped back in
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Oil drip
Dec 19, 2018 12:00:37 GMT 1
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Post by richclarke on Dec 19, 2018 12:00:37 GMT 1
Is it 2 stroke oil ....or gearbox oil? If its 2T oil it can be down to the check valves failing in the oil pump.. I think it’s gearbox oil given its viscosity and colour.
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Oil drip
Dec 19, 2018 12:06:17 GMT 1
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Post by richclarke on Dec 19, 2018 12:06:17 GMT 1
It has been mentioned before sometimes it’s a plug in the crankcase it just needs tapped back in I’m sorry. I don’t know about this plug you mentioned? I’ve looked at the Haynes manual and can’t seem to identify it. Any more info? Cheers Rich
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Post by marsbar350 on Dec 19, 2018 12:26:39 GMT 1
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Post by rigga on Dec 19, 2018 13:47:05 GMT 1
Neutral switch?
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Oil drip
Dec 19, 2018 14:49:26 GMT 1
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Post by richclarke on Dec 19, 2018 14:49:26 GMT 1
Excellent. Thank you. I’ll have a look.
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Oil drip
Dec 19, 2018 14:50:45 GMT 1
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Post by richclarke on Dec 19, 2018 14:50:45 GMT 1
The neutral switch was cracked when I bought the bike, so I changed it for a new one. It’s no longer leaking from there. Cheers Rich
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Post by richclarke on Jan 8, 2019 18:57:50 GMT 1
Found the bugger!
The two lower bolts for the RH inlet were stripped and not holding the inlet to the barrels properly. A quick call for a helicoil or two and it’s all good to go.
Rich
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Post by doohanno1 on Jan 8, 2019 21:58:30 GMT 1
It has been mentioned before sometimes it’s a plug in the crankcase it just needs tapped back in Why is that plug there in the first place.? Could be a little dangerous if anything.!!
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Oil drip
Jan 8, 2019 22:10:34 GMT 1
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Post by kostas on Jan 8, 2019 22:10:34 GMT 1
It has been mentioned before sometimes it’s a plug in the crankcase it just needs tapped back in Why is that plug there in the first place.? Could be a little dangerous if anything.!! The gearbox shift fork shaft goes thru the hole before the ally plug is fitted.
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Post by JonW on Jan 8, 2019 22:17:50 GMT 1
The plug is there as the shaft hole was drilled through the case.
Its not dangerous as they stay in with friction for tens of years without compliant. A gentle tap fixes the problem. Gotta love that.
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Post by dusty350 on Jan 8, 2019 22:42:40 GMT 1
On the aircooled Rd's the plug was a rubber seal (2) and they did weep after a time. The ally plug in the Lc's and Pv's rarely give trouble Dusty
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Post by marrcel on Jan 9, 2019 16:51:23 GMT 1
I think your rh oilline is syphoning. So after the helicol repair there will be less oil on the ground. But more in your crankcase. Take the oil line loose and check how many drops in 24h wil fall in an emty jar. It should not dripp.
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Post by shaunyb63 on Jan 9, 2019 17:29:20 GMT 1
I had the very same problem with mine, the oil pump check valve on the left side was faulty which was causing mine to leak, so pulled oil pipe off from left carb and after a couple of days i had a small pool of 2stroke oil,even though engine had never been started, sent pump to arrow for refurb and now problem solved . When mine leaked the oil would drop through the drain channel on top crankcase and collect on the left lower crankcase nut making it look like the oil was leaking from that point . Shaun.
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Oil drip
Jan 10, 2019 9:14:13 GMT 1
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Post by richclarke on Jan 10, 2019 9:14:13 GMT 1
I think your rh oilline is syphoning. So after the helicol repair there will be less oil on the ground. But more in your crankcase. Take the oil line loose and check how many drops in 24h wil fall in an emty jar. It should not dripp. Excellent advice, I’ll do that. Many thanks Rich
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Oil drip
Jan 10, 2019 9:16:52 GMT 1
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Post by richclarke on Jan 10, 2019 9:16:52 GMT 1
I had the very same problem with mine, the oil pump check valve on the left side was faulty which was causing mine to leak, so pulled oil pipe off from left carb and after a couple of days i had a small pool of 2stroke oil,even though engine had never been started, sent pump to arrow for refurb and now problem solved . When mine leaked the oil would drop through the drain channel on top crankcase and collect on the left lower crankcase nut making it look like the oil was leaking from that point . Shaun. That is exactly what is happening. I’ll test it to see if it’s syphoning and if that’s confirmed, I’ll whip the pump off and send it to Arrow for refurbishment. Thanks for your help and advice. Rich
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Post by arrow on Jan 10, 2019 14:17:47 GMT 1
Rich, you WILL get a leak if the bolts are not clamping down properly, due to a certain amount of blow back (even with the reeds) this is why inside the airbox has a smell of fuel. That being said, the check valves can pass at anytime if even the slightest of debris get on the seats, from any source.
I edited the post, I thought you were richclair at first, I've done his pump but not yours. Is the bike a heavy smoker on one or both sides when you first start it up after it's been standing for a week or two? Then once warmed up on the road, the smoke goes pretty normal? If so then quite possibly check valves in the oil pump, as the lads have stated.
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Oil drip
Jan 10, 2019 21:48:12 GMT 1
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Post by richclarke on Jan 10, 2019 21:48:12 GMT 1
Rich, you WILL get a leak if the bolts are not clamping down properly, due to a certain amount of blow back (even with the reeds) this is why inside the airbox has a smell of fuel. That being said, the check valves can pass at anytime if even the slightest of debris get on the seats, from any source. I edited the post, I thought you were richclair at first, I've done his pump but not yours. Is the bike a heavy smoker on one or both sides when you first start it up after it's been standing for a week or two? Then once warmed up on the road, the smoke goes pretty normal? If so then quite possibly check valves in the oil pump, as the lads have stated. Thanks Arrow. I’ll do the syphon test over the weekend and see what’s what. If the pump needs refurbishment I’ll send it over to you. Can you DM me the costs, where to send it to etc? Cheers Rich (The other one)
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Post by arrow on Jan 10, 2019 23:01:55 GMT 1
Will do Rich. It's not the syphon principle, simply gravity feed due to the height of the oil tank.
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Post by marrcel on Jan 11, 2019 13:38:47 GMT 1
Hello Garry your right about gravity. But why it is often named syphoning? That is because the feed line and the pump are lower than the connection at the carbs. Correct me if i am wrong.
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Post by arrow on Jan 11, 2019 13:55:56 GMT 1
Hello Garry your right about gravity. But why it is often named syphoning? That is because the feed line and the pump are lower than the connection at the carbs. Correct me if i am wrong. Correct. Syphoning is different.
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Oil drip
Jan 26, 2019 23:37:00 GMT 1
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Post by richclarke on Jan 26, 2019 23:37:00 GMT 1
Hello Garry your right about gravity. But why it is often named syphoning? That is because the feed line and the pump are lower than the connection at the carbs. Correct me if i am wrong. Correct. Syphoning is different. Noted thanks. Gravity not syphoning. Rich
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Post by arrow on Jan 26, 2019 23:47:55 GMT 1
Carbs. Are still lower than tank. If one part of the pipe work goes above the level of the feed in the tank, then it's syphoning.
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